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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: joneslee85 on Mon, 30 December 2013, 04:45:32
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It's been nearly a month, now I am free from work and finally have a chance to test the LZ-SE that I bought in this forum, from jdcrouse. Btw, when plugging in this beast, I always get the sticky error, it's like some key got stuck. I removed all keycaps and the issue still persist, I haven't opened the case yet. Any suggestion what could go wrong here?
UPDATE: Yahoo! I finally figured out what's going wrong!! It is due to the faulty F1 key in which the internal metal part is bent and always in contact which cause sticky key with F1. I started question why Help screen always kick when I plug in the USB, now that's one valuable good trace. Finally, I just pop the key cover and fix the metal part. All fixed! This has nothing to do with chattering firmware issue! YAHOO!
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Did you mean this known issue?
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51663.0
If it is the case, we may need to wait until it gets fixed.
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Did you mean this known issue?
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51663.0
If it is the case, we may need to while until it gets fixed.
I think this is it. Unsure if the LZ-SE uses the same TriK PCB though but the symptom is similar
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Yes, LZ-SE uses the same TRiK v1.1 PCB.
Corrected below, TRiK v1.1 was a later-released replacement PCB. The original is A.87.
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Did you mean this known issue?
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51663.0
If it is the case, we may need to wait until it gets fixed.
OP, you should post in that thread and voice your problem...the thread has been dead since the middle of December. The more people who come forward with a problem, the quicker Team Redline will be to address it.
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Yes, LZ-SE uses the same TRiK v1.1 PCB.
you sure? i thought they were still using a87s and the trik pcb started with the LZ-GH
unless im mistaking it for something else.
lz-se was the ridiculously priced one using a dated pcb no?
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I'm sure, it's in LifeZ's journal. I've researched this issue thoroughly and started bugging LZ and DrugER about this long ago in PMs, before that thread was made. LZ-S is the one that uses 1.0, which is black colored.
P.S.: here: http://lzlife.tistory.com/entry/TRiK-V11-for-LZSE
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unless they made it recently, but i swear i remember hearing that the LZ-SE used a.87 pcbs
yeah, thought so. this is a new LZ-SE case/plate/pcb w/e
LZ-SE's were out in 2012, your link shows 2013 with the trik pcb
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Easy to verify if joneslee could open up the case and take a photo of the PCB. You're thinking of LZ-S, maybe?
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no, LZ-SE was shipped with a.87 pcbs when they first came out. which, according to this thread (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=37042.0), was sometime in late 12, early 13. before redline/lz was told they couldnt use a.87s PCBs anymore with their products.. and they started making trik PCB.
everything before the LZ-GH was a.87 IIRC. aside from the mx mini and all other small boards they made PRIOR to LZ-GH.
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Hrm, I went off that page I linked, which indicated the use of TRiK v1.1 PCB for LZ-SE. If it's A.87 in this particular keyboard, it's better, I guess, for alternative firmware. I think.
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well we don't know what PCB his has.. but im willing to bet it's a.87. actually im pretty positive it's a.87 because crouse bought his around the time they came out. while it was still using a.87 PCB.
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Perhaps TRiK came out later as a replacement option. Will be easier to advise if joneslee checks his keyboard.
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Here is the PCB photo
[attachimg=1]
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Ok, that's not a TRiK :) Looks like an A.87. After more research, turned out that TRiK v1.1 were "replacement" PCBs offered for LZ-SE, not the originals. Didn't see it on LZ's site, but a google search came up with this (http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/index.php?mid=market_info&page=9&document_srl=6306301)
Anyway, not sure if there's anything alternative to try for A.87 in terms of firmware. But now that we know what PCB is in your keyboard, maybe someone will know what to do to help.
I should ask though, do you mean that some keys double or triple entries at random? Like instead of "a" you see "aa"? Is it the same switches every time or random?
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It's not kinda double or triple entries, it's like some modifier key like Alt or Ctrl is on all the time (when hooked into OSX, the top menu is always sort of on and off). I think I have to get in touch with LZ
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Can you plug it in after you boot it up? Or maybe this?
Just use the F1(BIOS Setup), F11(pre-boot/recovery area) and F12(boot device selection).
If you google "lenveno 0210 stuck key 3c" you get a lot of results... it might be laptop related.
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Ok, that's something else then. It can it be some incompatibility with Apple drivers? Unsure about your screenshot, but codyeatworld might have something. At worst, if not drivers, it could be some bad firmware or a faulty controller.
By the way, as an aside, when you say "is always sort of on and off", what you really mean is "is always on or off". Because what is "sort of on" or "sort of off"? ;D
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I could confirm it is not Lenovo related as it also happens on my Asus. I have the feeling it is related to OSX and it functions normally on my Ubuntu. I think the controller is having problem
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If it functions normally at least in one OS, it's a driver/firmware issue.
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If it functions normally at least in one OS, it's a driver/firmware issue.
Yet this contradicts with the fact when first startup I bump into sticky key error. At this bios stage, I think it has nothing to do with os driver
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Here is the PCB photo
(Attachment Link)
The teller of truths is once again right!
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I could confirm it is not Lenovo related as it also happens on my Asus. I have the feeling it is related to OSX and it functions normally on my Ubuntu. I think the controller is having problem
If you can't use the boot device selection, this is what I would do since it works on ubuntu.
I'm not sure what the "Aqua Key Test" linux equivalent is, but I would try to find out which key is sending the signal and replace it.
This site is similar to aqua key test and might work to identify the key: http://dmauro.github.io/Keypress/
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I could confirm it is not Lenovo related as it also happens on my Asus. I have the feeling it is related to OSX and it functions normally on my Ubuntu. I think the controller is having problem
If you can't use the boot device selection, this is what I would do since it works on ubuntu.
I'm not sure what the "Aqua Key Test" linux equivalent is, but I would try to find out which key is sending the signal and replace it.
This site is similar to aqua key test and might work to identify the key: http://dmauro.github.io/Keypress/ (http://dmauro.github.io/Keypress/)
Nothing similar to Aqua Key Test under linux. There are however a few CLI tools for one to get key codes, scankey, xev and xinput. xev and xinput heavily relies on X session but scankey doesn't on the other hand scankey outputs are not suitable for use with xmodmap for instance.
Also the OP stated that the Ctrl and Alt keys are kind of stuck. I guess normally if and when that happens those tools (mentioned above) can come in handy. From there on it all depends on the intervals for instance.
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Good news, I've finally get it sorted, this is not related to firmware issue. The culprit is stuck stem at F1 key.