geekhack
geekhack Marketplace => Great Finds => Topic started by: thecableguy on Thu, 30 January 2014, 19:04:48
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Industrial-IBM-non-clicky-keyboard-/251439095889?pt=US_Vintage_Computing_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8af02051
Looks like the same keyboard from http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=53890.0 ;D
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Now the title changed to non clicky instead of clicky....
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I posted this relist back in the original thread about three minutes before this post....
Now the title changed to non clicky instead of clicky....
He had changed the title of the last auction and put a note in large letters detailing that it wasn't clicky. This is a good seller.
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I posted this relist back in the original thread about three minutes before this post....
Now the title changed to non clicky instead of clicky....
He had changed the title of the last auction and put a note in large letters detailing that it wasn't clicky. This is a good seller.
A rare sight. But I wonder why he put clicky in the first place. Maybe he saw the word before and mistook it for tactile?
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I posted this relist back in the original thread about three minutes before this post....
Sorry about the repost. I did check the old thread but did not see it before I posted. :-[
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A rare sight. But I wonder why he put clicky in the first place. Maybe he saw the word before and mistook it for tactile?
He has a fair amount of old IBM hardware, and has sold some industrial M's (think that $840 one months back was his) and other stuff. Probably just got what he was selling mixed up as usually "old IBM"="clicky".
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Why is it resisted if it sold.
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A rare sight. But I wonder why he put clicky in the first place. Maybe he saw the word before and mistook it for tactile?
He has a fair amount of old IBM hardware, and has sold some industrial M's (think that $840 one months back was his) and other stuff. Probably just got what he was selling mixed up as usually "old IBM"="clicky".
you are correct, sir. http://www.ebay.com/itm/251152766493
Why is it resisted if it sold.
maybe he has multiple, or a bidder backed out when he realized it wasn't bucklingspring.
what I want to know is: how well XT guts will fit in that case.
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what I want to know is: how well XT guts will fit in that case.
The original thread has some talk in this area.
The original XT guts wouldn't fit (without some heavy modding). The case is a completely different one than the standard XT and the keyboard backplate is flat, not curved. You can see the difference here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=53890#msg1205237
There's no indented curve on either side of the Fn keyblock or to the right of the numpad.
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what I want to know is: how well XT guts will fit in that case.
The original thread has some talk in this area.
The original XT guts wouldn't fit (without some heavy modding). The case is a completely different one than the standard XT and the keyboard backplate is flat, not curved. You can see the difference here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=53890#msg1205237
There's no indented curve on either side of the Fn keyblock or to the right of the numpad.
I read the original thread, and saw the picture.
But, looking at it, it looks like they just straightened out the bend. If that's the case (hah!) then PC guts would fit perfectly, but wouldn't be as aesthetic as what someone might prefer.
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Well if you were in the market for one of the square IBM badges, albeit at a hefty price :p
Pop the badge off, toss the keyboard in the bin.
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I read the original thread, and saw the picture.
But, looking at it, it looks like they just straightened out the bend. If that's the case (hah!) then PC guts would fit perfectly, but wouldn't be as aesthetic as what someone might prefer.
They also changed the bottom of the case. The indent that runs the length of it is in a different spot. Don't know if that would interfere with the XT keyboard assembly.
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Why is it resisted if it sold.
It didn't sell, I got the second chance offer about a day after it ended but I never picked it up.
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Why is it resisted if it sold.
It didn't sell, I got the second chance offer about a day after it ended but I never picked it up.
ah, ok.
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what I want to know is: how well XT guts will fit in that case.
The original thread has some talk in this area.
The original XT guts wouldn't fit (without some heavy modding). The case is a completely different one than the standard XT and the keyboard backplate is flat, not curved. You can see the difference here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=53890#msg1205237
There's no indented curve on either side of the Fn keyblock or to the right of the numpad.
Aren't you a pretty experienced modder?
I'm pretty sure gray paint is cheap. Do a good job with the paint and you'll get your Industrial Model F.
My problem is that I don't understand the nuances of say enamel paint or why somebody uses lacquer, or how many hours or how thick the coating should be. So my own paint jobs are quite poor. Having painted two F XTs twice (ie four tries) I know I won't be able to just paint an F XT and make it look like the original Industrial. But if you can, let us know! I'll just follow your instructions...
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Photoelectric has written a good guide.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=44191.0
I have only painted (poorly) a F122 plate, but I blame the paint (rustoleum in "hammered" finish). I have better paint now and will be using it after I make up a new mat.
Painting cases is not for everyone. Certainly not for me. That said, case colour never really bothered me. I want to see the inside of this keyboard, so I can see how the OAK FTM switches were mounted in the case, but I dont want that info enough to actually buy the KB at this price.
Recently, I lost an auction for one of those AT&T model Ms. The main reason I want one is so I can study it more fully (and 'cause I don't hate italic-print keycaps like the rest of you guys seem to) and I collect odd or interesting IBM keycaps.
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Painting cases is not for everyone.
Always follow instructions to the letter. Many thin (and I mean extremely thin) coats is best.
Any "film forming" product that forms a film can chip, wear, or peel back off. You have to accept that. Thicker films are less likely to wear through, but much more likely to peel up.
I wish that there was a penetrating dye to use on a case, the PBT Model M/F caps that I have dyed have been absolutely durable.
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Aren't you a pretty experienced modder?
I'm pretty sure gray paint is cheap. Do a good job with the paint and you'll get your Industrial Model F.
My problem is that I don't understand the nuances of say enamel paint or why somebody uses lacquer, or how many hours or how thick the coating should be. So my own paint jobs are quite poor. Having painted two F XTs twice (ie four tries) I know I won't be able to just paint an F XT and make it look like the original Industrial. But if you can, let us know! I'll just follow your instructions...
I'm not looking to do any of this, I'm just contemplating dorkvader's idea of changing the guts of this thing.
I've only painted one case so far (an M) and I went for my own color (dark green).