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geekhack Marketplace => Great Finds => Topic started by: JPG on Tue, 18 February 2014, 14:12:44
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/IBM-Model-F-PC-XT-83-Key-Clicky-Keyboard-see-description-/271400345416?&_trksid=p2056016.m2518.l4276
Title says it all. 165, while not bad, is more than I would pay, but if the seller accepts a lower offer, could be nice ... if you want 3 XT lol.
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/IBM-Model-F-PC-XT-83-Key-Clicky-Keyboard-see-description-/271400345416?&_trksid=p2056016.m2518.l4276
Title says it all. 165, while not bad, is more than I would pay, but if the seller accepts a lower offer, could be nice ... if you want 3 XT lol.
Not bad. I've previously been picking up XT's for around $40-60 so this is definitely in line with free shipping.
Also, I noticed it ships from Manly :)
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Offered 100 with counter off of 120. Is it still worth it? Seems a bit dirty
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Offered 100 with counter off of 120. Is it still worth it? Seems a bit dirty
Sounds like a good price. As Wildcard said, $40/each is on the low end, especially if shipping's free. Are you planning to keep 3 XT's? Seems like you could recuperate most of your cost by selling the 2 you don't want.
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Offered 100 with counter off of 120. Is it still worth it? Seems a bit dirty
Sounds like a good price. As Wildcard said, $40/each is on the low end, especially if shipping's free. Are you planning to keep 3 XT's? Seems like you could recuperate most of your cost by selling the 2 you don't want.
Probably going to sell two of them. But I'm too lazy to build a converter
f it, going to buy it with bill me later for extra ebay bucks ;D
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Enjoy :thumb:
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Offered 100 with counter off of 120. Is it still worth it? Seems a bit dirty
Sounds like a good price. As Wildcard said, $40/each is on the low end, especially if shipping's free. Are you planning to keep 3 XT's? Seems like you could recuperate most of your cost by selling the 2 you don't want.
Probably going to sell two of them. But I'm too lazy to build a converter
f it, going to buy it with bill me later for extra ebay bucks ;D
If you have some soldering stuff, building a converter with a 5$ pro micro clone is very easy. My hardest challenge has been to solder my thing correctly (I was first trying to test it without soldering, it was a failure). But really, I made 2 converters this week, I am new to this, and I find it super easy to do now. Once done, it's plug and play really thx to Soarer. Building a converter cost me like 10$ of material cost total. (5$ for pro micro clone, 1$ for female connector, 1$ for little box, 2-3$ for a bunch of cables). And I found some nice micro usb cables 3 for 10$. It's plain cheap and take 1-2 hour to build (more the first time) and most of it is spent fitting things correctly.
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Offered 100 with counter off of 120. Is it still worth it? Seems a bit dirty
Sounds like a good price. As Wildcard said, $40/each is on the low end, especially if shipping's free. Are you planning to keep 3 XT's? Seems like you could recuperate most of your cost by selling the 2 you don't want.
Probably going to sell two of them. But I'm too lazy to build a converter
f it, going to buy it with bill me later for extra ebay bucks ;D
If you have some soldering stuff, building a converter with a 5$ pro micro clone is very easy. My hardest challenge has been to solder my thing correctly (I was first trying to test it without soldering, it was a failure). But really, I made 2 converters this week, I am new to this, and I find it super easy to do now. Once done, it's plug and play really thx to Soarer. Building a converter cost me like 10$ of material cost total. (5$ for pro micro clone, 1$ for female connector, 1$ for little box, 2-3$ for a bunch of cables). And I found some nice micro usb cables 3 for 10$. It's plain cheap and take 1-2 hour to build (more the first time) and most of it is spent fitting things correctly.
I've been trying to get my pro micro to work, but it hasn't yet. I realized the problem is my laptop doesn't have any serial COM ports, and all the other computers that do have them (COM1,COM3,COM4) don't work. The only COM port that works that I've seen so far using arduino builder is COM11
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Offered 100 with counter off of 120. Is it still worth it? Seems a bit dirty
Sounds like a good price. As Wildcard said, $40/each is on the low end, especially if shipping's free. Are you planning to keep 3 XT's? Seems like you could recuperate most of your cost by selling the 2 you don't want.
Probably going to sell two of them. But I'm too lazy to build a converter
f it, going to buy it with bill me later for extra ebay bucks ;D
If you have some soldering stuff, building a converter with a 5$ pro micro clone is very easy. My hardest challenge has been to solder my thing correctly (I was first trying to test it without soldering, it was a failure). But really, I made 2 converters this week, I am new to this, and I find it super easy to do now. Once done, it's plug and play really thx to Soarer. Building a converter cost me like 10$ of material cost total. (5$ for pro micro clone, 1$ for female connector, 1$ for little box, 2-3$ for a bunch of cables). And I found some nice micro usb cables 3 for 10$. It's plain cheap and take 1-2 hour to build (more the first time) and most of it is spent fitting things correctly.
I've been trying to get my pro micro to work, but it hasn't yet. I realized the problem is my laptop doesn't have any serial COM ports, and all the other computers that do have them (COM1,COM3,COM4) don't work. The only COM port that works that I've seen so far using arduino builder is COM11
When you plug you pro micro with your usb cable in your computer, what do you see in the Device manager in the Ports list? You should see something leonardo and the COMX is uses. And when you reset it, you should see the bootloader using another COMX. That's the one you must use in command line to load the hex.
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My hardest challenge has been to solder my thing correctly (I was first trying to test it without soldering, it was a failure).
This type of thing makes solderless assembly pretty painless.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-Wire-Male-to-Female-Jumper-Wire-20cm-40P-Color-Wires-Ribbon-Cable-Arduino-Pi-/161087974593?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2581976cc1
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My hardest challenge has been to solder my thing correctly (I was first trying to test it without soldering, it was a failure).
This type of thing makes solderless assembly pretty painless.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-Wire-Male-to-Female-Jumper-Wire-20cm-40P-Color-Wires-Ribbon-Cable-Arduino-Pi-/161087974593?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2581976cc1 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-Wire-Male-to-Female-Jumper-Wire-20cm-40P-Color-Wires-Ribbon-Cable-Arduino-Pi-/161087974593?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2581976cc1)
Nice, male to female is nice! But you still need to solder the header pin on the controller and the male to the female DIN unless you plug it in the keyboard directly. Soldering was not that hard, but trying to make it work without soldering has been. Still, I am still a total n00b and must have done it all terribly wrong. Would be nice to get some tips on connecting the DIN5 cable to a female and then to the controller and what you use to stick it in a box cleanly!
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Would be nice to get some tips on connecting the DIN5 cable to a female and then to the controller and what you use to stick it in a box cleanly!
It may be easier to use with pigtails, but the internal plug is smaller and cleaner. Depending on what is plugging into what, that determines what can be soldered or plugged in.
I have always bought Teensys with pins, because I find it easier to work with, but it is a lot smaller without.
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This type of thing makes solderless assembly pretty painless.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-Wire-Male-to-Female-Jumper-Wire-20cm-40P-Color-Wires-Ribbon-Cable-Arduino-Pi-/161087974593?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2581976cc1
Thanks fohat.digs. I just placed an order. My teensy with pins arrived a few days ago, but I need the jumper wires.
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I just placed an order. My teensy with pins arrived a few days ago, but I need the jumper wires.
I bought female-female to use on F-122s. You can always cut off one end and tin it to make a solder connection.
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I just placed an order. My teensy with pins arrived a few days ago, but I need the jumper wires.
I bought female-female to use on F-122s. You can always cut off one end and tin it to make a solder connection.
I was thinking the female-male makes my job a bit easier because no need to strip wires before soldering. My F-122 is arriving this Friday. ;D
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I just placed an order. My teensy with pins arrived a few days ago, but I need the jumper wires.
I bought female-female to use on F-122s. You can always cut off one end and tin it to make a solder connection.
I was thinking the female-male makes my job a bit easier because no need to strip wires before soldering. My F-122 is arriving this Friday. ;D
With an internal Teensy in an F-122, you can use female-female and connect from 4 pins on the controller to 4 pins on the Teensy and you are done with no soldering at all.
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I just placed an order. My teensy with pins arrived a few days ago, but I need the jumper wires.
I bought female-female to use on F-122s. You can always cut off one end and tin it to make a solder connection.
I was thinking the female-male makes my job a bit easier because no need to strip wires before soldering. My F-122 is arriving this Friday. ;D
With an internal Teensy in an F-122, you can use female-female and connect from 4 pins on the controller to 4 pins on the Teensy and you are done with no soldering at all.
Cool! Thanks for the info. I'll also get some female-female then.
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Would be nice to get some tips on connecting the DIN5 cable to a female and then to the controller and what you use to stick it in a box cleanly!
It may be easier to use with pigtails, but the internal plug is smaller and cleaner. Depending on what is plugging into what, that determines what can be soldered or plugged in.
I have always bought Teensys with pins, because I find it easier to work with, but it is a lot smaller without.
I am curious to see how it's plugged under your breadboard! But nice setup. I'll try to take pictures of mine tonight, if my camera is not failing me.
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I am curious to see how it's plugged under your breadboard!
You will have to stay curious, I am not taking it out. One side is mounted with a screw into a section of plastic wine cork hot-glued into the box!
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I am curious to see how it's plugged under your breadboard!
You will have to stay curious, I am not taking it out. One side is mounted with a screw into a section of plastic wine cork hot-glued into the box!
I will live with it :p
I ordered a hot glue gun today. I kind of suffered not having one yesterday and everyone seems to use it when making a converter! The hot glue gun seems to be the equivalent of the duck tape in GH.
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The hot glue gun seems to be the equivalent of the duck tape in GH.
Epoxy is much better but hot glue is much easier.
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Would be nice to get some tips on connecting the DIN5 cable to a female and then to the controller and what you use to stick it in a box cleanly!
It may be easier to use with pigtails, but the internal plug is smaller and cleaner. Depending on what is plugging into what, that determines what can be soldered or plugged in.
I have always bought Teensys with pins, because I find it easier to work with, but it is a lot smaller without.
Going to make my converter box like that :thumb:
I just placed an order. My teensy with pins arrived a few days ago, but I need the jumper wires.
I bought female-female to use on F-122s. You can always cut off one end and tin it to make a solder connection.
I was thinking the female-male makes my job a bit easier because no need to strip wires before soldering. My F-122 is arriving this Friday. ;D
With an internal Teensy in an F-122, you can use female-female and connect from 4 pins on the controller to 4 pins on the Teensy and you are done with no soldering at all.
Oh really? Crap. I soldered the pins on my pro micro and then soldered wires to the pins to attach to the M-122.....time to get desoldering pump
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Oh really? Crap. I soldered the pins on my pro micro and then soldered wires to the pins to attach to the M-122.
The M connections are very different. For the F, you need to connect 4 of these to 4 pins on the converter. I used the ones in the link.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-Wire-Female-to-Female-Jumper-Wire-20cm-40P-Color-Wires-Ribbon-Cable-Arduino-/171182953596?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27db4c947c