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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: Lengradde on Wed, 26 February 2014, 04:40:22
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After having gone through HHKB Pro 2, KBT Pure, full size Rosewills with reds/blues/browns...I've finally nailed down what I want from a keyboard. The challenge is now finding one.
Requirements:
1) I don't want to have to unsolder things to put in lighter springs, so I guess this means it must be PCB mount with no backlight?
2) Cherry MX Browns
3) 70-75% form factor, like seen on the KBT Race/Noppo choc mini/Keycool 84 Anything smaller than fullsize.
4) I'd prefer texture to the keys, so I guess this means PBT?
Is there any upcoming board I should be waiting for?
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I don't want to have to unsolder things to put in lighter springs, so I guess this means it must be PCB mount with no backlight?
Yes. I would also recommend getting some of Beasts switch tools. Don't be so afraid of soldering though ;)
The KBT Race is the only 75% that uses PCB mounted switches that comes to my mind.
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Sprit offers 75% in his GB. Perhaps you could get a PCB mounted 75% from there? Don't quote me on it, though.
There are texture on some ABS keycaps as well, not only on PBT. At the moment I'm typing on some Miami ABS double shots from SP, which are textured. :)
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I don't want to have to unsolder things to put in lighter springs, so I guess this means it must be PCB mount with no backlight?
Yes. I would also recommend getting some of Beasts switch tools. Don't be so afraid of soldering though ;)
The KBT Race is the only 75% that uses PCB mounted switches that comes to my mind.
DO be afraid of soldering. You could screw up your PCB that way. Be aware that poor quality PCBs get killed by too much heating and cooling cycles.
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DO be afraid of soldering. You could screw up your PCB that way. Be aware that poor quality PCBs get killed by too much heating and cooling cycles.
There's a difference between being afraid and being careful. And even if you screw up, often stuff can get fixed. You are right though, it depends on the PCB.
Sprit offers 75% in his GB. Perhaps you could get a PCB mounted 75% from there? Don't quote me on it, though.
Oh yes good idea. From what I can see you should be able to make a PCB mounted board from his PCBs, as they all have the holes for the PCB mount pins.
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DO be afraid of soldering. You could screw up your PCB that way. Be aware that poor quality PCBs get killed by too much heating and cooling cycles.
There's a difference between being afraid and being careful. And even if you screw up, often stuff can get fixed. You are right though, it depends on the PCB.
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An experienced person only needs to be careful.
An inexperienced person should be afraid and scared off and discouraged from attacking his keyboard on the first try. Let him burn a few holes on a trial PCB (I got one from Ivan) and create a few solder-sculptures first. He'll learn about melting point, tinning tips, leaded solder, thinner solder wire and all the important differences.
I have a burnt teensy from my first-ever-soldering attempt in my life.
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The problem is I'm having finger pain from typing, and need a solution quickly. I have lighter springs on order, and just want a keyboard I can pop them into. I can solder, and eventually I'll make a custom keyboard, but right now I just need something to type on! So I guess I need to update my requirements:
60%, 75%, and 87 key are all fine.
Disregard PBT requirement
Just need something without a number pad that will let me swap springs immediately.
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The problem is I'm having finger pain from typing, and need a solution quickly. I have lighter springs on order, and just want a keyboard I can pop them into. I can solder, and eventually I'll make a custom keyboard, but right now I just need something to type on! So I guess I need to update my requirements:
60%, 75%, and 87 key are all fine.
Disregard PBT requirement
Just need something without a number pad that will let me swap springs immediately.
Can't really help with specific keyboards, but I would recommend 60% in general. I find them much nicer to type on because your hands move far less distance when typing and when you need to use a mouse.
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60%, 75%, and 87 key are all fine.
Disregard PBT requirement
KBT Pure
KBT Race
Both PBT.
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Can't really help with specific keyboards, but I would recommend 60% in general. I find them much nicer to type on because your hands move far less distance when typing and when you need to use a mouse.
I know, as I mentioned in my first post I have a KBT Pure. :)
60%, 75%, and 87 key are all fine.
Disregard PBT requirement
KBT Pure
KBT Race
Both PBT.
I can't find any of the non-backlit KBT boards in stock anywhere.
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I can't find any of the non-backlit KBT boards in stock anywhere.
Those are one of the few PCB mount boards that I know of apart from original Cherry fullsize boards. Check out Amazon maybe?
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Those are one of the few PCB mount boards that I know of apart from original Cherry fullsize boards. Check out Amazon maybe?
They are completely out of KBT anything. :(
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I forgot one, the Poker I is also PCB mounted. You could also get a KBT Race from mechanicalkeyboards.com with different switches and then buy some browns, I mean you want to open the switches anyways.
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I forgot one, the Poker I is also PCB mounted. You could also get a KBT Race from mechanicalkeyboards.com with different switches and then buy some browns, I mean you want to open the switches anyways.
They don't have any KBT race in stock. :(
Don't see Poker 1 anywhere. Ebay also a negative on stock for any of these.
Starting to see why the group buys are so popular right now...lol.
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Ah, sorry, didn't see that. Don't know any other option right now, except a used one maybe?
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If backlighting isn't a dealbreaker the preorder for the race II started recently.
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If backlighting isn't a dealbreaker the preorder for the race II started recently.
As I mentioned in the first post, I'm avoiding backlighting and plate mount because I didn't want to have to deal with soldering to swap springs. Unfortunately there's no word on if they'll be making the Race 2 available with a PBT/non-backlit version like they did with the first Race. :(
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Hi everyone,
Yup backlighting means it requires desoldering :(
But I went ahead and bought race 2 while wanting to do ergo clears..
Could you guys give me a tip on desoldering? what soldering iron and pump to use?
You could pm me the brand and model thanks!