Vacation AFAIK, should be back in a couple days.
HID over serial sounds kind of hackish, when you could fairly easily get proper bluetooth HID with the bluefruit EZ-key (not EZ-link):
http://www.adafruit.com/products/1535
The Frosty Flake will still communicate with the EZ-key via serial, but you wont need any special hid over serial drivers on your PC. On the downside you wont get the fancy battery connector, however the EZ-key has an onboard voltage regulator so as long as your power source outputs 3-16V and you don't mind doing a bit more soldering, then you will be fine.
Also, it might be a good idea to find out if there are any spare IO pins on the Frosty Flake that you access before you dive in. You need at least one IO pin to send your HID reports to the EZ-key via serial, and optionally one IO pin per extra functionality such as receiving keyboard LED status from the EZ-key over serial, controlling the paring button pin, controlling the reset pin to save power when idle, etc.
Sorry I would love to do my own research, but I haven't got much time this week. Apologies in advance.use the ISP header on the frosty flake. just after the reset pin goes high, the ISP can be driven to load firmware into the boot and program on-chip eeprom. the ISP basically speaks tx/rx, and can be run USB with an FTDI header; adafruit sells a couple different kinds. one of them has the atmel header on the end, which works when the header run out from the MCU has the pinout given by the datasheet. they also carry an FTDI adapter that runs the serial wires out to individual female pins. lastly, it's possible to use a soarer, an id innovations adapter (in windows only, with the driver from the id site), or an rs-232 connector if you have one, to the MCU ISP pins. oh, atmel also sells a couple of different programmers for external programming that will either speak to the ISP on the MCU, or bypass it completely, to write to the MCU EEPROM and set lockbits.
Question: Do I need a special programmer to flash the binary? In other words, how do I load the firmware onto the MCU??
Thanks!
I haven't thought too much about powering the keyboard + MCU + EZ Link with batteries yet, but I think I will see if I can get 2 AAs in series to work.
I haven't thought too much about powering the keyboard + MCU + EZ Link with batteries yet, but I think I will see if I can get 2 AAs in series to work.
They use 3xAAA in the bluefoot - http://learn.adafruit.com/bluefruit-bluetooth-wireless-foot-pedal-switch/overview (http://learn.adafruit.com/bluefruit-bluetooth-wireless-foot-pedal-switch/overview)
Show Image(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tkTLhv1i8LA/UzUeG4A_N2I/AAAAAAAABgc/_filMNT9AIE/w639-h852-no/IMG_20140327_235835.jpg)
Urrg I soldered the MCU and half way through I realized it was facing the wrong direction.
Show Image(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tkTLhv1i8LA/UzUeG4A_N2I/AAAAAAAABgc/_filMNT9AIE/w639-h852-no/IMG_20140327_235835.jpg)
Urrg I soldered the MCU and half way through I realized it was facing the wrong direction.
Damn. Looks fixable though.
Show Image(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tkTLhv1i8LA/UzUeG4A_N2I/AAAAAAAABgc/_filMNT9AIE/w639-h852-no/IMG_20140327_235835.jpg)
Urrg I soldered the MCU and half way through I realized it was facing the wrong direction.
Damn. Looks fixable though.
Ya I think the PCB is ok. The MCU was ok too when the picture was taken, then I broke a pin =(. A new MCU is already on its way - thanks to Fredrik!
Show Image(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tkTLhv1i8LA/UzUeG4A_N2I/AAAAAAAABgc/_filMNT9AIE/w639-h852-no/IMG_20140327_235835.jpg)
Urrg I soldered the MCU and half way through I realized it was facing the wrong direction.
Damn. Looks fixable though.
Ya I think the PCB is ok. The MCU was ok too when the picture was taken, then I broke a pin =(. A new MCU is already on its way - thanks to Fredrik!
Looks like you were soldering that with normal solder. One thing that I would suggest is looking into using solder paste and a hot air soldering station. I bought a nice digital temperature-controlled soldering station with a hot air gun new for ~$90 on ebay, and used it to with great success to replace a SOT23-5 regulator on an Arduino Pro Micro with a different voltage one.
I'd be very confident now using the hot air to solder an Atmega32u4 on now. It was pretty easy.
I used a toothpick to put the solder paste on, which worked beautifully.
Btw the solder paste was $3.60 on ebay as well.
Show Image(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tkTLhv1i8LA/UzUeG4A_N2I/AAAAAAAABgc/_filMNT9AIE/w639-h852-no/IMG_20140327_235835.jpg)
Urrg I soldered the MCU and half way through I realized it was facing the wrong direction.
Damn. Looks fixable though.
Ya I think the PCB is ok. The MCU was ok too when the picture was taken, then I broke a pin =(. A new MCU is already on its way - thanks to Fredrik!
Looks like you were soldering that with normal solder. One thing that I would suggest is looking into using solder paste and a hot air soldering station. I bought a nice digital temperature-controlled soldering station with a hot air gun new for ~$90 on ebay, and used it to with great success to replace a SOT23-5 regulator on an Arduino Pro Micro with a different voltage one.
I'd be very confident now using the hot air to solder an Atmega32u4 on now. It was pretty easy.
I used a toothpick to put the solder paste on, which worked beautifully.
Btw the solder paste was $3.60 on ebay as well.
That's right, I was using my trusty soldering iron Hako fx888 - nothing special. I was using the bundled iron tip too - a little big for what I was doing I think. Can yougive me the model name for the hot air gun? I actually never used hot air gun - don't even know what it is... =P. Thank you!!
[update] just realized what solder paste and hot air gun can do. INCREDIBLE. Thanks Clickclack123.
Show Image(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tkTLhv1i8LA/UzUeG4A_N2I/AAAAAAAABgc/_filMNT9AIE/w639-h852-no/IMG_20140327_235835.jpg)
Urrg I soldered the MCU and half way through I realized it was facing the wrong direction.
Damn. Looks fixable though.
Ya I think the PCB is ok. The MCU was ok too when the picture was taken, then I broke a pin =(. A new MCU is already on its way - thanks to Fredrik!
Looks like you were soldering that with normal solder. One thing that I would suggest is looking into using solder paste and a hot air soldering station. I bought a nice digital temperature-controlled soldering station with a hot air gun new for ~$90 on ebay, and used it to with great success to replace a SOT23-5 regulator on an Arduino Pro Micro with a different voltage one.
I'd be very confident now using the hot air to solder an Atmega32u4 on now. It was pretty easy.
I used a toothpick to put the solder paste on, which worked beautifully.
Btw the solder paste was $3.60 on ebay as well.
That's right, I was using my trusty soldering iron Hako fx888 - nothing special. I was using the bundled iron tip too - a little big for what I was doing I think. Can yougive me the model name for the hot air gun? I actually never used hot air gun - don't even know what it is... =P. Thank you!!
[update] just realized what solder paste and hot air gun can do. INCREDIBLE. Thanks Clickclack123.
Yeah, it's really amazing to see when the solder paste is sucked onto the legs of the component. Seeing the videos of that on youtube was what sold me on getting a hot air station initially.
I got a YH-8786D (http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=YH-8786D&_sop=15), and I'm happy with it, but if I were to do it again, I would get a separate hot air gun and soldering station. It would cost maybe $15 more to get separate ones, but I didn't realize when I bought it that the hot air gun was always attached to the base unit. It doesn't have a socket like the soldering iron. Sometimes I don't need to use the hot air gun and it would be nice to leave it in the box.
It wouldn't matter if I had a proper workshop, but I'm always having to put everything away lest "she who must be obeyed" would get annoyed.
I also bought kapton heat-resistant tape on ebay (also cheap!) to protect components when I'm hot air-ing other parts of the board.
Hakko C or BC tip also works for TQFP package with drag method. I solder ATMega32U4 with C tip.
http://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/work_drag.html
Hotair is good of course if you xan afford.
Bluetooth EZ-key at Adafruit gets restocked every now and then, but it gets sold out in matter of minutes every time!!
Bluetooth EZ-key at Adafruit gets restocked every now and then, but it gets sold out in matter of minutes every time!!
EZ-keys are currently in stock ;)