geekhack
geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: niubio on Fri, 07 March 2014, 12:06:24
-
I've found a nice rubber dome with detachable connector - Fujitsu Siemens KBPC. Unfortunately it comes from a big pile of boards which cords have been cut off by some moron - even though it could be simply unplugged from Fujitsu... But anyway, this board bugs me from the day I got it and now I want to bring it back to life. Of course I don't have a pinout for RJ connector - which line is clock, which data, etc., thus I seek your help guys :) Here are some PCB scans:
(http://s2.postimg.org/6ouvpv6px/fujitsu_siemens_1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/6ouvpv6px/)
(http://s2.postimg.org/vw5rq49tx/fujitsu_siemens_2.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/vw5rq49tx/)
Maybe someone has similar Fujitsu board, or maybe there's a person that can figure out from the layout of electronic elements which line is which? Thanks in advance!
Generic image from google:
(http://www6.pcmag.com/media/images/158079-6-fujitsu-siemens-kbpc-sx-keyboard.jpg)
EDIT: It's KBPC, not KBPS, a typo :)
-
C'mon, ppl... Let me broad my question a little: Is there any easy way to detect which line is which by looking where the patches go from the inner connector? Like "this one goes to capacitor - it's a 5V" <- that's my wild guess only... I've dozens of boards which cords have been cut off. Opened up 5 of them today and pinouts are nowhere to be found on the PCB :( I've learned the hard way that there's no universal color scheme, I'm not willing to experiment with boards like Gateway2k or CherryG80s...
Please, help...!
-
I would help you if I could.
-
Thanks... I guess I have a big problem. I've started another thread on polish electronics forum and still no luck :(
-
You can try to buy one of theese:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intermec-236-186-001-Keyboard-WDG-CABLE-6-5-Feet-SR61T-6pin-PS2-to-RJ45-20081106-/400253788033?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d30fc1f81 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intermec-236-186-001-Keyboard-WDG-CABLE-6-5-Feet-SR61T-6pin-PS2-to-RJ45-20081106-/400253788033?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d30fc1f81)
I have absolutely no guarantee that it will work. I just think its worth a shot. Its difficult to say something about the wiring except that it should be a wider lead to ground.
-
TYVM blackbox! Maybe I'll try it! Yeah, the one that leads to the "surroundings" on the PCB is definitely ground. So there are 3 patches left: "data", "clock" and "5V". My guess is "5V" goes to some sort of capacitor, while others go to IC, but I'm such an idiot when it comes to electronics, there's no way to be 100% sure... Is it possible to mess up PCB or electronics on "computer side" if I mix up data & clock?
That would be so awesome to come up with some "universal" method... There are many FANTASTIC boards in electronic waste disposals facilities - IBM Ms, Fs, weird mechanicals, terminals and other superb stuff. But those idiots cut off all connectors the moment they got them (copper)...
-
TYVM blackbox! Maybe I'll try it! Yeah, the one that leads to the "surroundings" on the PCB is definitely ground. So there are 3 patches left: "data", "clock" and "5V". My guess is "5V" goes to some sort of capacitor, while others go to IC, but I'm such an idiot when it comes to electronics, there's no way to be 100% sure... Is it possible to mess up PCB or electronics on "computer side" if I mix up data & clock?
That would be so awesome to come up with some "universal" method... There are many FANTASTIC boards in electronic waste disposals facilities - IBM Ms, Fs, weird mechanicals, terminals and other superb stuff. But those idiots cut off all connectors the moment they got them (copper)...
NP, couldnt agree with you more regarding keyboards beeing thrown away because lack of standarisation.
-
I think you'd only be able to start breaking things if you messed up where things related to power are. If you can figure where power and ground are, then the other two you can just attach until it works, shouldn't be able to break the computer side that way. Actually if you attached, for example, power from comp to data on keyboard I'd be surprised if anything other than the keyboard was fried.
But given that type of connector, you may even need a soarer convertor or something like that. That's assuming it talks using something that can understand and isn't 100% proprietary.
-
Ok, I've been thinking about it a lot, especially after I got some caps for my ICL :) Yesterday I finally stumbled upon half-baked solution buried in an 10-year old thread. I've just finished compiling the "guide" posted below, which is an universal solution to my problem... I guess :) The PCB is from ICL, but it should work on any board where you can locate "+".
(http://s16.postimg.org/h5l5fzjwl/pinout.jpg)
-
If you flip the tiny PCB over (green soldermask facing you, 6p6c connector on top), this is the pin layout I know for certain:
[ GND, GND, +5V, -?-, -?-, -?- ]
Pin6 goes via a diode to the On/Off/Sleep switch. So, I'm assuming the two USB data lines are connected to Pin4 and Pin5.
Now, those Lines might also be PS/2 only, with a small serial adapter inside the optional USB cable. In this case, Pin4 and Pin5 are the CLK and DATA lines of PS/2.
Now, PS/2 has two N/C pins: Pin2 and Pin6 (of the standard Mini-DIN PS/2 connetor, not the one present on the keyboard PCB). I'm assuming the keyboard uses one of these pins for the power switch.
If both optional cables for the keyboard are passive, things get a lot easier: The two USB data lines can be easily determined just by testing them. Pin6 of the modular connector should stay disconnected, because then the USB controller takes the job of handling the power switch. Judging by the PCB traces, the switch does both, notify the chip of the button press, and handle the legacy PS/2 switching in case the keyboard is connected to the PC via PS/2.
When I find a spare 6p6c connector, I'll do the testings, and post how to wire a USB plug to a cable for it.