I'd be interested for ANSI :O but this is nice for ISO users.
Possibly interested in ANSI. When will you have pictures of the cases?
悬壶济世 FTW.
I know you mentioned combining shipping for folks who do this and your Tai Hao buy but I think it might be better to do one group buy at a time. All inclusive group buys like this one can get fatally popular. Poor Sprit is still trying to sort out his entire round one half a year later. Make your Tai Hao buy ultra successful and use it to learn lessons and make mistakes with items of considerably smaller value than an entire keyboard kit. That would be my recommendation anyway.
sorry for my misleading title
The PCB in the IC is actually capable of doing both ISO and ANSI
18xx, winkey, winkeyless
its just that the title of the PCB will be "Red Scarf II ISO", addition of ISO to the board :)
so ANSI ppl has no worries
Interested in ANSI.
So the Universal 77-key plate will look something like this, correct?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/XVvGN0n.png)
So the Universal 77-key plate will look something like this, correct?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/XVvGN0n.png)
So basically this is a GH60 with an attached GHPad?
i am not sure about the bottom left part though, at the left Ctrl and alt
悬壶济世 planned to put two 1.5x ctrl alt beside the spacebar.
making it similar to the 1838
iso 1.25 shiftSo basically this is a GH60 with an attached GHPad?
That's exactly what it is, Ray.i am not sure about the bottom left part though, at the left Ctrl and alt
悬壶济世 planned to put two 1.5x ctrl alt beside the spacebar.
making it similar to the 1838
You're right, I forgot to add the 1.5-1.5-7-1.5-1.5-1-1-1-1-1-1 layout.
This is better:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WOswHMI.png)
iso 1.25 shift
noob here so forgive me if this is dumb, I was just wondering, is the numpad hot swappable? or does it have to start attached to the board? I've been looking for something unique for a first board project and I think a 60% with a breakaway numpad is damn well unique enough
So basically this is a GH60 with an attached GHPad?
That's exactly what it is, Ray.
Sorry for letting you guys to think like so.
As far as i know, the PCB has difference in a few parts
As the numpad is added, it gives some new layout like 1.5-1.5-7-1.5-1.5-1-1-1-1-1-1 bottom row
also, the board is compatible with the two size of IC
i dont mean to take advantage of the GH60 and GH pad or any kind of disrespectful
if there are conflict of interest or so
I am willing to stop this project immediately
noob here so forgive me if this is dumb, I was just wondering, is the numpad hot swappable? or does it have to start attached to the board? I've been looking for something unique for a first board project and I think a 60% with a breakaway numpad is damn well unique enough
The numpad can only be attached at the right hand side of the 60%
the connection can also be soldered back later on .
The numpad must be attached to the board to be used as it does not have a I/O port
The 60% part can still be used if u have cut away the numpad part
So basically this is a GH60 with an attached GHPad?
That's exactly what it is, Ray.
Sorry for letting you guys to think like so.
As far as i know, the PCB has difference in a few parts
As the numpad is added, it gives some new layout like 1.5-1.5-7-1.5-1.5-1-1-1-1-1-1 bottom row
also, the board is compatible with the two size of IC
i am not a pro to board designing but i will ask him to clarify if theres need of it
i dont mean to take advantage of the GH60 and GH pad design , or any kind of disrespect to the authors
if there are conflict of interest or so
I am willing to stop this project immediately
Sorry for letting you guys to think like so.
As far as i know, the PCB has difference in a few parts
As the numpad is added, it gives some new layout like 1.5-1.5-7-1.5-1.5-1-1-1-1-1-1 bottom row
also, the board is compatible with the two size of IC
i dont mean to take advantage of the GH60 and GH pad or any kind of disrespectful
if there are conflict of interest or so
I am willing to stop this project immediately
Yes, I'm positive there are differences in the PCB. It's not a direct copy of the design, but a nice modification by 悬壶济世. I'm not offended, and I think this has a place in the community. He took two open source designs, combined them, and made some changes, such as the LED backlighting modes, controller ICs, etc.
I wouldn't want you guys to stop doing this project at all. On the contrary, please proceed when ready. This will have demand in the market, and if you can get them completed in a short amount of time, so much the better.
Don't worry my friend. JD said that just to make it easier to understand what this project is. He's not saying this project is a copy of what's already there. And of course 悬壶济世 won't do that anyway.
1.)Red Scarf II GH-DT version (Named : Red Scarf II ISO)
2.)Aluminium Housing + MKC legs
3.) Anodized Aluminium Plates
Will it be possible to buy only these parts?
any hard anodizing options?
any hard anodizing options?
its possible
but the price will not be as cheap as now it is
any hard anodizing options?
its possible
but the price will not be as cheap as now it is
I don't mind. Its hard finding hard anodized cases
1.)Red Scarf II GH-DT version (Named : Red Scarf II ISO)
2.)Aluminium Housing + MKC legs
3.) Anodized Aluminium Plates
Will it be possible to buy only these parts?
yes
will accept seperated orders in the GB
is the controller reprogramble?
What you suggested is only possible with an universal plate, which is still being designed. The possible layouts right now is what you see in OP.
Im interested in this.
It would be extra awesome with a hard anodized case.
If would like to request a modification.
Please rearrange the numeric keypad a bit so that a keyboard builder could saw off one, two or three columns from the right without breaking anything. I would be fine with having it be a permanent mod - no header pins needed.
u mean u want thsoe easy-cutting spaces for each of the numpad columnsI'm sorry I was imprecise. Yes, I want to be able to cut away columns from the right of the number pad and keep the remaining keys functioning. That would require some rearrangement of the lines and the SMD components on the number pad to keep the integrity of the key and LED matrices and to place the components out of the way so that they are not easily damaged when cutting.
so you can get them cut without breaking the board
u mean u want thsoe easy-cutting spaces for each of the numpad columnsI'm sorry I was imprecise. Yes, I want to be able to cut away columns from the right of the number pad and keep the remaining keys functioning. That would require some rearrangement of the lines and the SMD components on the number pad to keep the integrity of the key and LED matrices and to place the components out of the way so that they are not easily damaged when cutting.
so you can get them cut without breaking the board
Routed channels, like in-between the 60% area and the numpad would be nice but are not as necessary.
Many users need arrows but not a numpad, and they would something smaller than a TKL.
With 3 columns: 3×2 nav cluster and arrows (like a TKL without function key row).
With 2 columns: 2×3 nav cluster and arrows (Like Cherry G80-5000).
With 1 column: arrows and a column of nav keys (like Noppoo Choc mini and many others).
More options are good. :)
There would have to be a new PCB revision anyway to support the ISO Return key.
From looking at TaoBao I see that they offer a 60% case and plate if you just wanted the numpad removed. Hope that helps. I'm also planning on buying this but not sure if I should wait for group buy or buy the parts myself after seeing this post.u mean u want thsoe easy-cutting spaces for each of the numpad columnsI'm sorry I was imprecise. Yes, I want to be able to cut away columns from the right of the number pad and keep the remaining keys functioning. That would require some rearrangement of the lines and the SMD components on the number pad to keep the integrity of the key and LED matrices and to place the components out of the way so that they are not easily damaged when cutting.
so you can get them cut without breaking the board
Routed channels, like in-between the 60% area and the numpad would be nice but are not as necessary.
Many users need arrows but not a numpad, and they would something smaller than a TKL.
With 3 columns: 3×2 nav cluster and arrows (like a TKL without function key row).
With 2 columns: 2×3 nav cluster and arrows (Like Cherry G80-5000).
With 1 column: arrows and a column of nav keys (like Noppoo Choc mini and many others).
More options are good. :)
There would have to be a new PCB revision anyway to support the ISO Return key.
This is interesting, and you are correct (cuz im going use the numpad part as arrows + function column too)
but one of the problem is the case and plates will be hard to fit afterwards
I know that we will have an improved case,
which provides option to use the plate holding the PCB in the case,
and by this, the PCB should still be able to rest in the case firmly.
But the right hand side of it will be emptied, and we may need something to fill up the space
Any idea to fix the casing and plate problem too?
From looking at TaoBao I see that they offer a 60% case and plate if you just wanted the numpad removed. Hope that helps. I'm also planning on buying this but not sure if I should wait for group buy or buy the parts myself after seeing this post.u mean u want thsoe easy-cutting spaces for each of the numpad columnsI'm sorry I was imprecise. Yes, I want to be able to cut away columns from the right of the number pad and keep the remaining keys functioning. That would require some rearrangement of the lines and the SMD components on the number pad to keep the integrity of the key and LED matrices and to place the components out of the way so that they are not easily damaged when cutting.
so you can get them cut without breaking the board
Routed channels, like in-between the 60% area and the numpad would be nice but are not as necessary.
Many users need arrows but not a numpad, and they would something smaller than a TKL.
With 3 columns: 3×2 nav cluster and arrows (like a TKL without function key row).
With 2 columns: 2×3 nav cluster and arrows (Like Cherry G80-5000).
With 1 column: arrows and a column of nav keys (like Noppoo Choc mini and many others).
More options are good. :)
There would have to be a new PCB revision anyway to support the ISO Return key.
This is interesting, and you are correct (cuz im going use the numpad part as arrows + function column too)
but one of the problem is the case and plates will be hard to fit afterwards
I know that we will have an improved case,
which provides option to use the plate holding the PCB in the case,
and by this, the PCB should still be able to rest in the case firmly.
But the right hand side of it will be emptied, and we may need something to fill up the space
Any idea to fix the casing and plate problem too?
interesting. is there a version with the full esc/function row on top?
interesting. is there a version with the full esc/function row on top?
i would suggest u to take a look at duck lightsaver
to me, its literally what u are talking about :)
No, there wouldn't be any case available for 16,17,18 wide keyboards. The beauty with the Poker case design though is that it is very simple: a one-piece tray with some spacers and a hole for the USB port, and a plate is optional.I want to be able to cut away columns from the right of the number pad and keep the remaining keys functioning.Any idea to fix the casing and plate problem too?
No, there wouldn't be any case available for 16,17,18 wide keyboards. The beauty with the Poker case design though is that it is very simple: a one-piece tray with some spacers and a hole for the USB port, and a plate is optional.I want to be able to cut away columns from the right of the number pad and keep the remaining keys functioning.Any idea to fix the casing and plate problem too?
Building a Poker case is therefore not very difficult. Several home-made Poker cases have been shown on GH. I could probably whip one up from ABS plastic within half an hour + some time for the solvent-adhesive to evaporate.
Yet another PCB design mod that would help though, would be to elongate the mounting holes in the keypad area so that there is some left when the column to the right has been cut off.
Here is the link for the 60% case, for 60% the pcb is just cut or snapped offFrom looking at TaoBao I see that they offer a 60% case and plate if you just wanted the numpad removed. Hope that helps. I'm also planning on buying this but not sure if I should wait for group buy or buy the parts myself after seeing this post.u mean u want thsoe easy-cutting spaces for each of the numpad columnsI'm sorry I was imprecise. Yes, I want to be able to cut away columns from the right of the number pad and keep the remaining keys functioning. That would require some rearrangement of the lines and the SMD components on the number pad to keep the integrity of the key and LED matrices and to place the components out of the way so that they are not easily damaged when cutting.
so you can get them cut without breaking the board
Routed channels, like in-between the 60% area and the numpad would be nice but are not as necessary.
Many users need arrows but not a numpad, and they would something smaller than a TKL.
With 3 columns: 3×2 nav cluster and arrows (like a TKL without function key row).
With 2 columns: 2×3 nav cluster and arrows (Like Cherry G80-5000).
With 1 column: arrows and a column of nav keys (like Noppoo Choc mini and many others).
More options are good. :)
There would have to be a new PCB revision anyway to support the ISO Return key.
This is interesting, and you are correct (cuz im going use the numpad part as arrows + function column too)
but one of the problem is the case and plates will be hard to fit afterwards
I know that we will have an improved case,
which provides option to use the plate holding the PCB in the case,
and by this, the PCB should still be able to rest in the case firmly.
But the right hand side of it will be emptied, and we may need something to fill up the space
Any idea to fix the casing and plate problem too?
Could you please post a link to the tao bao ad for the 60% case and plate? I can't see it anywhere but my Chinese ain't great.
i will suggest this to 悬壶济世Awesome. Thanks!
but the final decision will be made by him
i will suggest this to 悬壶济世Awesome. Thanks!
but the final decision will be made by him
i will suggest this to 悬壶济世Awesome. Thanks!
but the final decision will be made by him
some pretty big improvement had made to the PCB and the Case!
Hopefully i can have a sample or at least a picture of it by the begining of next week
In, but why not have the arrow keys in the 10 key cluster like a Model F? 1.25s in R1 and a regular size right shift would make a lot of caps sets immediately compatible.
Im interested in this.
It would be extra awesome with a hard anodized case.
yes pacifist had also asked about the anodizing options
I have forward the question to the factory is am waiting for their reply.If would like to request a modification.
Please rearrange the numeric keypad a bit so that a keyboard builder could saw off one, two or three columns from the right without breaking anything. I would be fine with having it be a permanent mod - no header pins needed.
u mean u want thsoe easy-cutting spaces for each of the numpad columns
so you can get them cut without breaking the board
Did i get you wrong?
Im interested in this.
It would be extra awesome with a hard anodized case.
yes pacifist had also asked about the anodizing options
I have forward the question to the factory is am waiting for their reply.If would like to request a modification.
Please rearrange the numeric keypad a bit so that a keyboard builder could saw off one, two or three columns from the right without breaking anything. I would be fine with having it be a permanent mod - no header pins needed.
u mean u want thsoe easy-cutting spaces for each of the numpad columns
so you can get them cut without breaking the board
Did i get you wrong?
Any update bout anodizing?
Any update bout anodizing?
Im interested in this.
It would be extra awesome with a hard anodized case.
yes pacifist had also asked about the anodizing options
I have forward the question to the factory is am waiting for their reply.If would like to request a modification.
Please rearrange the numeric keypad a bit so that a keyboard builder could saw off one, two or three columns from the right without breaking anything. I would be fine with having it be a permanent mod - no header pins needed.
u mean u want thsoe easy-cutting spaces for each of the numpad columns
so you can get them cut without breaking the board
Did i get you wrong?
Any update bout anodizing?
Design of pcb and case was changed.
And designers hdd crashed
I asked him and he said things should be done this week, samples to show u guys
Even Chinese side gb is stopped
Just finished my finals yesterday and I will start updating all threads of mine after collecting info
Interesting kit!
Will the plate allow switch top removal without desoldering?
Interesting kit!
Will the plate allow switch top removal without desoldering?
yes
sneak peek of the chinese veresion
(Attachment Link)
Interesting kit!
Will the plate allow switch top removal without desoldering?
yes
sneak peek of the chinese veresion
(Attachment Link)
Yep, I need this. Looks very nice. Definitely in.
Will you be including the 60% case in the GB? I would like to get one for my Poker2.
Interesting kit!
Will the plate allow switch top removal without desoldering?
yes
sneak peek of the chinese veresion
(Attachment Link)
Yep, I need this. Looks very nice. Definitely in.
Will you be including the 60% case in the GB? I would like to get one for my Poker2.
i can try to include them
some more photo of the 77 keyboard!
to be honest,
after several modification of the PCB and the case, i would say this keyboard can stand toe-to-toe against any other DIY keyboard in the market.
I doubt saying its a "value edition " item is the right thing to do, as it is a keyboard that has its own specialty.
Interesting kit!
Will the plate allow switch top removal without desoldering?
yes
sneak peek of the chinese veresion
(Attachment Link)
Yep, I need this. Looks very nice. Definitely in.
Will you be including the 60% case in the GB? I would like to get one for my Poker2.
i can try to include them
some more photo of the 77 keyboard!
how good is the reprogramablilty?
how good is the reprogramablilty?
U can program it as many times as u want
While process is GUI, and u can choose to flash ur .hex and .eep through dedicated dfu-reflasher or via flip
U can generate ur eep through keyboard-layout-editor.com (http://keyboard-layout-editor.com) and enjoyclick.org/tkg# (http://enjoyclick.org/tkg#)
how good is the reprogramablilty?
U can program it as many times as u want
While process is GUI, and u can choose to flash ur .hex and .eep through dedicated dfu-reflasher or via flip
U can generate ur eep through keyboard-layout-editor.com (http://keyboard-layout-editor.com) and enjoyclick.org/tkg# (http://enjoyclick.org/tkg#)
how many layers are there if I do the hex file flash? I know metalliqaz gets 10 with his hex file maker
how good is the reprogramablilty?
U can program it as many times as u want
While process is GUI, and u can choose to flash ur .hex and .eep through dedicated dfu-reflasher or via flip
U can generate ur eep through keyboard-layout-editor.com (http://keyboard-layout-editor.com) and enjoyclick.org/tkg# (http://enjoyclick.org/tkg#)
how many layers are there if I do the hex file flash? I know metalliqaz gets 10 with his hex file maker
if u are generation ur .EEP through enjoyclick.org/tkg#
there are in total 8 layers for you to use
but some of the fn keys have to be used for dedicated LED config
i usually use 3 fn keys for led config, so i have at most 5 layers to program
so if u have only one LED mode toggle, u can have 7 layers
if u dont give a _ about led, u can have all 8 layers for ur own use
I think the case would look even nicer using 1x12mm acrylic layer instead of 3 x 4mm layers.
As per this tao bao add:
http://h5.m.taobao.com/awp/core/detail.htm?id=38804482367&spm=0.0.0.0&rn=8L78NCOB2-XzfRe6hkYAX1IkyU5B-XVW2VfO-aCNZ&sid=4a141a341016cca2de531d6e672c3a64&abtest=6&bagtype=
I think the case would look even nicer using 1x12mm acrylic layer instead of 3 x 4mm layers.
As per this tao bao add:
http://h5.m.taobao.com/awp/core/detail.htm?id=38804482367&spm=0.0.0.0&rn=8L78NCOB2-XzfRe6hkYAX1IkyU5B-XVW2VfO-aCNZ&sid=4a141a341016cca2de531d6e672c3a64&abtest=6&bagtype=
But where to find a shop that will supply the 12mm acrylic? The thickest I've found at a cutter (to be honest, I haven't looked around that much) was 9mm.
I really can't wait for the group buy! I have been holding off and trying to not buy from TaoBao through agent in hopes that this group buy will be better!
I really can't wait for the group buy! I have been holding off and trying to not buy from TaoBao through agent in hopes that this group buy will be better!
we have a lot of improvement from the one in taobao
tried to perfect this board to show that there are also fine product in china
you will no be disappointed to join this GB later :thumb:
I really can't wait for the group buy! I have been holding off and trying to not buy from TaoBao through agent in hopes that this group buy will be better!
we have a lot of improvement from the one in taobao
tried to perfect this board to show that there are also fine product in china
you will no be disappointed to join this GB later :thumb:
Of course there are good products from China. OMG...
Hey Harry
Can you please confirm whether the silver color for the case and the plate are anodised silver or just raw aluminium? And whether the nuts for the case will be color matched?
I noticed that in your first photo the hex nuts were silver and in other photos they are black?
Thanks!
Hey Harry
Can you please confirm whether the silver color for the case and the plate are anodised silver or just raw aluminium? And whether the nuts for the case will be color matched?
I noticed that in your first photo the hex nuts were silver and in other photos they are black?
Thanks!
just asked
its a sanded aluminium, raw colour of it
It looks cool, but it appears to take a lot of special keys, doesn't it?
It looks cool, but it appears to take a lot of special keys, doesn't it?You haven't seen the options. ;)
It looks cool, but it appears to take a lot of special keys, doesn't it?You haven't seen the options. ;)
It supports 2.75u or 1.75u right Shift, 1.25u or 1.5u bottom-row modifiers, 7u, 6.25u or 6u Space bar, 1×1u or 1×2u numpad-+, 1u or 2u numpad-0, 1u or 2u Backspace, ISO or ANSI Return, if 1.5 mods you can choose between 1 or 2 1u keys between right Alt and Ctrl, you can have two 1u keys instead of a 1×2 numpad-Enter.
Click on the first "More" link in the first post to see some of the options for the bottom row. There is also more to see if you study pictures of the PCB carefully (links in the first post). Support for ISO Return key isn't there in the shots of the PCB, but we have been promised it for the revision that is going to be offered in this round.
This keyboard is like the GH60 + GHpad in one case, with all the layout options that it has ... plus the option of arrow-keys in the space in-between plus backlighting. And if all you wanted was a 60% keyboard with backlighting, you could order the PCB, easily cut away the numpad-portion and put that into a Poker-compatible case.
The controller is an ATmega32u4 - the same as in the Teensy and the GH60, plus a chip that helps with backlighting. I expect to be able to convert any of the open firmwares that exist out there to work with this board (without backlighting at least).
Edit: I discovered even more options that I hadn't listed above. :p
Is there much difference in feel between 1.75u right shift without stabilizer and a 2.75u stabilized right shift? I'm trying to decide on the ideal layout for me.
Ghost of Harry
Great! I haven't checked the IC threads for a long time and I see you have made so much awesome progress! I'm delighted to see so much potential.
That said, may I suggest you go easy on your option 4, the black switches? I think most geekhackers have little difficulty in getting their own switches. Blacks aren't that popular and the extra weight shipping from China is usually unnecessary when they could get switches in their own countries.
If I remember correctly Cherry MX switches are getting hard to buy in China due to lack of supply. It might be better to just forego that option. Saves you some work too!
Is there much difference in feel between 1.75u right shift without stabilizer and a 2.75u stabilized right shift? I'm trying to decide on the ideal layout for me.
I think that it's rather subjective, like most things with mechs. Have you tried comparing how things feel on your own mech between something like the lshift and capslock?
Ghost of Harry
Great! I haven't checked the IC threads for a long time and I see you have made so much awesome progress! I'm delighted to see so much potential.
That said, may I suggest you go easy on your option 4, the black switches? I think most geekhackers have little difficulty in getting their own switches. Blacks aren't that popular and the extra weight shipping from China is usually unnecessary when they could get switches in their own countries.
If I remember correctly Cherry MX switches are getting hard to buy in China due to lack of supply. It might be better to just forego that option. Saves you some work too!
Will this group buy be pushed back because of the extended deadline of the TaiHao groupbuy?
It looks cool, but it appears to take a lot of special keys, doesn't it?You haven't seen the options. ;)
It supports 2.75u or 1.75u right Shift, 1.25u or 1.5u bottom-row modifiers, 7u, 6.25u or 6u Space bar, 1×1u or 1×2u numpad-+, 1u or 2u numpad-0, 1u or 2u Backspace, ISO or ANSI Return, if 1.5 mods you can choose between 1 or 2 1u keys between right Alt and Ctrl, you can have two 1u keys instead of a 1×2 numpad-Enter.
Click on the first "More" link in the first post to see some of the options for the bottom row. There is also more to see if you study pictures of the PCB carefully (links in the first post). Support for ISO Return key isn't there in the shots of the PCB, but we have been promised it for the revision that is going to be offered in this round.
This keyboard is like the GH60 + GHpad in one case, with all the layout options that it has ... plus the option of arrow-keys in the space in-between plus backlighting. And if all you wanted was a 60% keyboard with backlighting, you could order the PCB, easily cut away the numpad-portion and put that into a Poker-compatible case.
The controller is an ATmega32u4 - the same as in the Teensy and the GH60, plus a chip that helps with backlighting. I expect to be able to convert any of the open firmwares that exist out there to work with this board (without backlighting at least).
Edit: I discovered even more options that I hadn't listed above. :p
yes u are correct fidecanor :thumb:
and thx for your detail explaination
why not both
The pros and cons of leather and wood palm rest
Leather
Feel: soft touch
Structure : Latex sponge, with a metal plate under it, and wraped the top with leather
(i think we will use the highest level First layer of leather import from other country (not china) (i dunno if i stated this correctly))
Pros: machine made, short lead time, a lot of colours to choose, can create your own stamp on the leather if you are willing to pay more
Cons: errrm.... i dont know
Wooden
feel : hard touch
Structure : A cut of a naturla piece of wood with wax coated on it
Pros : Natural, Elegant, hand made,
Cons : longer lead time, may not have accurate dimension
the latest version of plate is still under production
after that i will have the ANSI sample
so I will start the GB after receiving the ANSI sample, or it will be rather late
one disadvantage of leather is that, its not perfect fit for the board, the height and so
unlike wooden one, which u can adjust the height
although if we have large amount of order, we can specifically order a dimension for it.
one disadvantage of leather is that, its not perfect fit for the board, the height and so
unlike wooden one, which u can adjust the height
although if we have large amount of order, we can specifically order a dimension for it.
I have a similar leather wrist rest and yes the standard height is not quite high enough.
How do you adjust the height on the wooden ones?
I would say wood, but only if it is a perfect fit, if there is any chance it would have a gap or whatever, then leather would be my vote. This is the most comprehensive GB i've seen. I hope we aren't overextending ourselves.
I'm not buying as I have no need and the layout is not what I want.
But I REALLY wish you guys the best.
The experience is extremely valuable.
Maybe 1 year from now you'll do another DIY bundle for a layout I want and I'll be on this like a rat jumps on big rice. (Is that song really true? Rats love rice? :p)
have asked about the leather one
With all the colour stated above and you can provide ur OWN logo to be stamped onto the palm rest
though extra cost will be needed as a new mold will be made to do so
Logo that they provide which do not require extra costMoreShow Image(http://img02.taobaocdn.com/imgextra/i2/158471868/T2YHO8XptXXXXXXXXX_!!158471868.jpg)
so... customizable parts = leather colour, string colour, and logo
have asked about the leather one
With all the colour stated above and you can provide ur OWN logo to be stamped onto the palm rest
though extra cost will be needed as a new mold will be made to do so
Logo that they provide which do not require extra costMoreShow Image(http://img02.taobaocdn.com/imgextra/i2/158471868/T2YHO8XptXXXXXXXXX_!!158471868.jpg)
so... customizable parts = leather colour, string colour, and logo
have asked about the leather one
With all the colour stated above and you can provide ur OWN logo to be stamped onto the palm rest
though extra cost will be needed as a new mold will be made to do so
Logo that they provide which do not require extra costMoreShow Image(http://img02.taobaocdn.com/imgextra/i2/158471868/T2YHO8XptXXXXXXXXX_!!158471868.jpg)
so... customizable parts = leather colour, string colour, and logo
Even if I end up not being able to get one of the keyboard kits I would really like to get a leather TKL wrist rest with one of these logos.
have asked about the leather one
With all the colour stated above and you can provide ur OWN logo to be stamped onto the palm rest
though extra cost will be needed as a new mold will be made to do so
Logo that they provide which do not require extra costMoreShow Image(http://img02.taobaocdn.com/imgextra/i2/158471868/T2YHO8XptXXXXXXXXX_!!158471868.jpg)
so... customizable parts = leather colour, string colour, and logo
Even if I end up not being able to get one of the keyboard kits I would really like to get a leather TKL wrist rest with one of these logos.
Which logo will you get?
Oh boy, this is getting better and better!
I'll get the keyboard kit and 2 wrist rests with logos.
Hope guys can handle all of this and this doesn't get delayed forever like the GH60 group buy...
That sounds like the perfect approach to such a huge thing!
Thank you very much for doing this - I really appreciate all the efforts you already put in :thumb:
I really like your active communication in all of your threads and am looking forward to the final product!
By the way, would it be possible to bundle this GB with your Tai Hao GB so I can save some shipping costs? Time is not a problem ;)
Does somebody know what these red circled words in the following picture are? Somewhat they seem familiar.
Somehow I cannot put this pic in spoilers, so here's the link to the pic instead:
http://i.imgur.com/5pYuY8k.jpg
have asked about the leather one
With all the colour stated above and you can provide ur OWN logo to be stamped onto the palm rest
though extra cost will be needed as a new mold will be made to do so
Logo that they provide which do not require extra costMoreShow Image(http://img02.taobaocdn.com/imgextra/i2/158471868/T2YHO8XptXXXXXXXXX_!!158471868.jpg)
so... customizable parts = leather colour, string colour, and logo
Even if I end up not being able to get one of the keyboard kits I would really like to get a leather TKL wrist rest with one of these logos.
Which logo will you get?
Wouldn't it be neat to have a custom "GeekHack" logo on the palmrest?
Wouldn't it be neat to have a custom "GeekHack" logo on the palmrest?
I would need permission from admins :-[
Wouldn't it be neat to have a custom "GeekHack" logo on the palmrest?
I would need permission from admins :-[
I guess this shouldn't be a problem. Just send the mods a PM:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=profile;u=34190
If the geekhack logo becomes available, I'll have to get a 3rd wrist rest in this GB :thumb:
Are there any updates on the keyboard side of the GB?
Are there any updates on the keyboard side of the GB?
i was wondering the same thing
What's 10$?
Do you mean getting a custom logo? That would be pretty good price!
yes
custom logo Mold should be around $10 dollars as far as i know
i will reconfirm about it
No MOQ is needed
would it be possible to get a plate where the numberpad is located on the left?
would it be possible to get a plate where the numberpad is located on the left?
sorry i dont think thats possible
and the PCB does not allow that layout too
EDIT: That would maybe be a good modification to the PCB, to add solder points on the traces just before and after the cutting line, so if you cut off the numpad it would be quite easier to add it back if you would like to.It already has them, but spread over four groups.
EDIT: That would maybe be a good modification to the PCB, to add solder points on the traces just before and after the cutting line, so if you cut off the numpad it would be quite easier to add it back if you would like to.It already has them, but spread over four groups.
See the pictures in this post (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57976.0).
EDIT: That would maybe be a good modification to the PCB, to add solder points on the traces just before and after the cutting line, so if you cut off the numpad it would be quite easier to add it back if you would like to.It already has them, but spread over four groups.
See the pictures in this post (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57976.0).
hi Findecanor
i have asked him about cutting off any of the column of the numpad part
but he said there is too little space to do so
so its rather impossible
EDIT: That would maybe be a good modification to the PCB, to add solder points on the traces just before and after the cutting line, so if you cut off the numpad it would be quite easier to add it back if you would like to.It already has them, but spread over four groups.
See the pictures in this post (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57976.0).
hi Findecanor
i have asked him about cutting off any of the column of the numpad part
but he said there is too little space to do so
so its rather impossible
I didn't see that. Or actually missed it.
But seems like if you use a very thin blade on a dremel it may be possible. Maybe I will try this if the group buy happens. I would love to change side to use that side as macro keys in games. You can use 1x keys over the whole numpad right?
You can use these pins for the solder points right?
http://www.trainweb.org/girr/tips/tips8/sd45_pin_grid_header.jpg
but from the current structure, i think there wont have enough space for putting that soldering point on every space between numpad column and thats what xhjs (the designer) had told meThe discussion about soldering points was about relocating the numpad to the left side. I don't think that anyone who is now interested in cutting away individual columns from the right side would be interested in reconnecting any of those.
but from the current structure, i think there wont have enough space for putting that soldering point on every space between numpad column and thats what xhjs (the designer) had told meThe discussion about soldering points was about relocating the numpad to the left side. I don't think that anyone who is now interested in cutting away individual columns from the right side would be interested in reconnecting any of those.
For me at least, I am just interested in getting the smd components for the keys on the left of the cut out of the way so that I could make a clean cut and not have to reconnect anything. Instead of having so many to the right of switches, have them to the left, above and below.
Having milled grooves between columns would not be necessary, but would make things easier.
Having additional solder pads would be completely unnecessary.
Here is an illustration of what I mean. The PCB is seen from the bottom, so left <=> right from the description above. (click the picture to magnify)
(Attachment Link)
BTW, I would use a 4" razor saw. Wear a dust mask and keep the vacuum cleaner held close all the time for safety.
what he replied me is that this place made this impossibleThanks. That's not a problem for me though, as I will be keeping two columns. :)
...
and he replied me that theres really too little space for him to move stuff around
not sure if that problem lead to all the column cannot be cut or not
but he said its not feasible :confused:
sorry
not sure if that problem lead to all the column cannot be cut or not
but he said its not feasible :confused:
sorry
He means he will cut them by himself.
diodes and resistors on the line of cutting?Yes. I am also somewhat concerned that the could be a diode or resistor on the wrong side of the cutting line.
i thought that is the concern?
No we do not have to wait until the TaiHao GB ships, but I have only just received the sample from the supplier. Will upload a few photos as soon as I've got my camera back - stay tuned! :D
FINALLYI ran out of money so I'm signing loan contracts and throwing those at my computer screenShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/TSSwW6S.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zfhBuAK.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/y6FXhBD.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Xxag3Mo.jpg)
btw, are there any interest in high-quality made in china mx-compatible switches
communicating with other sources of products
will post updates here
btw, are there any interest in high-quality made in china mx-compatible switches
btw, are there any interest in high-quality made in china mx-compatible switchesNot interested in those or MX blacks. I rather harvest cheap used MX blues from classifieds.
communicating with other sources of products
will post updates here
btw, are there any interest in high-quality made in china mx-compatible switches
I hope I don't ruffle any feathers by digging up this thread from the grave, because even though it's been a year since GhostofHarry chimed in on this thread, I hope he knows just that there are those still watching and hoping for a GB for this board! :thumb: