OST...
I have also found that these foam mats from McMaster Carr to be useful, although everything that I purchased was closed cell foam, which is firmer than the stock foam on a Model F. Open cell foam might be spongier and softer, but I have not purchased any yet. Also, these foams can be purchased in lengths that are long enough to use as one piece for the Model F 122. The art foam is only 18 inches long, which requires the refurbisher to use a second small piece for part of the foam mat of the Model F 122.
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I have also found that these foam mats from McMaster Carr to be useful, although everything that I purchased was closed cell foam, which is firmer than the stock foam on a Model F. Open cell foam might be spongier and softer, but I have not purchased any yet. Also, these foams can be purchased in lengths that are long enough to use as one piece for the Model F 122. The art foam is only 18 inches long, which requires the refurbisher to use a second small piece for part of the foam mat of the Model F 122.
(Attachment Link)
I got a piece from wcass last year that was probably the soft 1/16" and I thought that it was far too soft and/or thin.
In comparison, the art foam, also at about 1/16" is vastly firmer.
1/8" in a medium might be about right, if it will compress and move without wrinkling.
OST...
What does OST mean?
I am a big strong guy with big strong hands and I am not afraid to use tools like serious clamps and hammers, but if you are intimidated by wrestling with these components, then a more pliable and forgiving mat is in order.
I really do not like the swivel head on my clamp. A swivel head does not work well forcing together such thin pieces of metal.
after trying out about a half-dozen different foams from McMaster Carr, I found that the original recommendation from wcass, the closed cell neoprene foam, is the best combination of compressibility, durability, and affordability offered by McMaster Carr. Many of the softer open cell foams are closer in texture and softness to the original Model F foam, but they seem to lack in durability and I had trouble pounding holes into them with the leather hole punch!For the neoprene foam, it looks like 1/16" is too thin and 1/8" is too thick. Unfortunately, it appears that McMaster-Carr does not have 3/32" neoprene foam. CS Hyde has 3/32" silicone foam and silicone sponge, but these products are much more expensive than neoprene foam.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#8647k102/=s9x8kf
I decided to use 1/8" thickness because I did not like all the open space left by 1/16", but I am having some difficulty getting it all back together. That might be operator error more than anything, and I really do not like the swivel head on my clamp. A swivel head does not work well forcing together such thin pieces of metal.
You probably could find better foams for this application, but I was not willing to pay more than a few dollars for each type of foam.
Also, if anybody is interested, I have tons of foam that you can have if you want it.
For the neoprene foam, it looks like 1/16" is too thin and 1/8" is too thick.
OK -- that is useful to know! Thanks.For the neoprene foam, it looks like 1/16" is too thin and 1/8" is too thick.
I doubt that 1/8" is too thick, as long as it will crush. You want the barrels to seat into something.
And, in my opinion, the extra padding makes the feel more solid.
More to a sex ad ...I am a big strong guy with big strong hands and I am not afraid to use tools like serious clamps and hammers, but if you are intimidated by wrestling with these components, then a more pliable and forgiving mat is in order.
This sounds like something you would put in a Craigslist Personals ad.
The silicone products are expensive, but they offer many advantages, including long-term compatibility with metal surfaces.+1
I sped off to Harbor Freight after work, and picked up that bar clamp I linked before. Because it did not have a swivel head, it worked on the first dry. What a breeze!
made the keyboard feel even more solid.
made the keyboard feel even more solid.
Precisely why I always advocate for the nice firm art foam, even considering the additional heartache.
made the keyboard feel even more solid.
Precisely why I always advocate for the nice firm art foam, even considering the additional heartache.
Sadly my 2mm art foam mat is preventing me from reassembling the F. In this case, it's not worth. Perhaps on a beam spring it could work.
Maybe I can find some 1.5mm or less.
Which model F? Are you using spring clamps to hold the plates together and a bar clamp to slide them into position?made the keyboard feel even more solid.
Precisely why I always advocate for the nice firm art foam, even considering the additional heartache.
Sadly my 2mm art foam mat is preventing me from reassembling the F. In this case, it's not worth. Perhaps on a beam spring it could work.
Maybe I can find some 1.5mm or less.
Some people report that the foam needs to be highly compressible. Perhaps your art foam is too rigid?
Which model F? Are you using spring clamps to hold the plates together and a bar clamp to slide them into position?made the keyboard feel even more solid.
Precisely why I always advocate for the nice firm art foam, even considering the additional heartache.
Sadly my 2mm art foam mat is preventing me from reassembling the F. In this case, it's not worth. Perhaps on a beam spring it could work.
Maybe I can find some 1.5mm or less.
Some people report that the foam needs to be highly compressible. Perhaps your art foam is too rigid?
made the keyboard feel even more solid.
Precisely why I always advocate for the nice firm art foam, even considering the additional heartache.
Sadly my 2mm art foam mat is preventing me from reassembling the F. In this case, it's not worth. Perhaps on a beam spring it could work.
Maybe I can find some 1.5mm or less.
Really regretting my decision to take it apart at this point.
Could you provide more details on why that art foam is not working for you?
Note that the radius of curvature is very different, making it hard to bend the center into place for assembly.
Really regretting my decision to take it apart at this point.
Very sorry to hear that. I did at least 4 XTs using only hand pressure, that was way back before I got into the big F-122s and started needing clamps. Do you recognize that you just need to slide the plates far enough together to minimally engage the tabs and slots? Once they are engaged, you can stand it on end and tap it with a hammer the rest of the way. When you are comfortable that the pivot plates will not "jump tracks" you can bang it around all you want.
The art foam from Michael's is nominal 1/16" or approx 1.5mm. I would certainly not recommend anything thicker unless it was very compressible, and that would not afford as much dampening.
are there any tricks to this?
Here's the foam that worked extremely well for me, after trying multiple different options - silicone, epdm, different foam grades and thicknesses, and orings (could still work really well, just needs to be 20 or 30a at most). Anyway, the foam:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251610414297
Soft, yet fairly tear resistant. With it there's very slight play in the barrels on the center row, and none on the other rows. The center row play is so insignificant, that the keycaps wobble more than the actual barrel. YMMV of course depending on what you use it on - this was on a kishsaver for me. Also cheap.
Here is the foam that worked best for me. It also comes in 1/16 thickness. I found the 1/8 suitable for the F122, but I am not sure about the XT.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#8647k21/=tcnzhp
1/16 is a safer bet, because it is not as tight of a fit and has more play, but still keeps the barrels in place.
Here is the foam that worked best for me. It also comes in 1/16 thickness. I found the 1/8 suitable for the F122, but I am not sure about the XT.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#8647k21/=tcnzhp
1/16 is a safer bet, because it is not as tight of a fit and has more play, but still keeps the barrels in place.
Thanks! I saw this earlier in the thread and my 1/16" arrived today. I'm happy to report my XT is back together! The 1/16" of that material works perfectly except the long space bar 'barrel' had to be directly against the metal in order for the two plates to close. It doesn't seem to be a problem though since the space bar 'barrel' is snug with minimal if any wobble without the foam under it.
Also, to get the space bar spring/hammer correctly seated in the XT I used a very small pocket knife to hold it down in place while I placed the backplate/pcb on and then clamped it down with my other hand. Seemed to work a treat since I got it positioned first try.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zH9AsgC.png)
I believe I've sourced a new left leg that was broken in shipping... and then all that's left is to take the plates apart one more time, remove the corrosion/rust from the plate and give her a respray ;D Should be better than new!