.....You should keep writing about your trial and error, and processes/techniques. Might help others try it out as well.
During your initial sculpting process, how did you get the sides so flat? Also, how did you manage to avoid finger prints? The original looks very solid and clean :D Also, have you considered making thicker walls under the cap for durability and possibly adding some kind of inscription underneith the cap as a way of kind of signing your design?
I thought the walls looked thicker, although I wasn't 100% sure. It really sounds like you know what you're doing! Hopefully maybe you can get an little inscription in your next design if all goes well :)
I wish I knew what I was doing! My success rate is abysmal at the moment and I keep wearing out silicone molds due to all the duds I've been creating. Progress is slow.
I wish I knew what I was doing! My success rate is abysmal at the moment and I keep wearing out silicone molds due to all the duds I've been creating. Progress is slow.
You have a much higher grasp on this than most people start with. Keep it up and please realize that we ALL have duds.
A 100% yield comes maybe once in a few months.
Wear out mold? I've never had that happen with mine. Only time a mold started cracking was because it was wrongly mixed to start with
Thanks for the insight. I'll have to experiment further with this silicone until I run out of it. Maybe I'll rig together a diy vacuum chamber
I love love love the spartan helmet idea.
If you took a Cherry/GMK top row keycap, filled in the cylindrical part at the top, and cut out your "face opening" lines in the helmet, I think you would have a winner. To me, the DSA profile cap you used as a base is too low, and I don't really love the sides of the helmet being sculpted over the cap sides. But with just a tiny bit of refinement, I think you would have a cap that would be every bit as popular as a Clack skull or V2 Bro.
:thumb:
I love love love the spartan helmet idea.
If you took a Cherry/GMK top row keycap, filled in the cylindrical part at the top, and cut out your "face opening" lines in the helmet, I think you would have a winner. To me, the DSA profile cap you used as a base is too low, and I don't really love the sides of the helmet being sculpted over the cap sides. But with just a tiny bit of refinement, I think you would have a cap that would be every bit as popular as a Clack skull or V2 Bro.
:thumb:
Thanks for the insight. I'll have to experiment further with this silicone until I run out of it. Maybe I'll rig together a diy vacuum chamber
DIY vacuum chambers can work like pipe bombs. Contact mkawa via pm for some more information.
I didn't follow the bit about the cylindrical part though.
That sounds unpleasant. Maybe I'll hold off on that
I love love love the spartan helmet idea.+1
If you took a Cherry/GMK top row keycap, filled in the cylindrical part at the top, and cut out your "face opening" lines in the helmet, I think you would have a winner. To me, the DSA profile cap you used as a base is too low, and I don't really love the sides of the helmet being sculpted over the cap sides. But with just a tiny bit of refinement, I think you would have a cap that would be every bit as popular as a Clack skull or V2 Bro.
:thumb:
Very nice work daftendire. Soon to give Bro Caps some competition, hehe. Your photos of the process were great, too.
The main tool I used was a fresh razor blade since I wasn't sculpting it while it was still soft. Due to the flat angles and sides, that was the only thing I needed.
Soo to answer your question there are a number of good tools to sculpt with. I'm partial to the aluminum handled tools that kind of resemble dentist picks. I'm not sure of the best place to find these since I had a number of them in my tool collection already. If you're crafty enough you can use almost anything to sculpt with though such as tooth picks or bent pieces of wire.
The main tool I used was a fresh razor blade since I wasn't sculpting it while it was still soft. Due to the flat angles and sides, that was the only thing I needed.Alright thanks, my design is also flat-faced (inspired by bro-bots) so I think ill try your technique. If you ever make one of these in blue, tell me and I will jump on that so hard! Good job so far man, keep it up :D
Soo to answer your question there are a number of good tools to sculpt with. I'm partial to the aluminum handled tools that kind of resemble dentist picks. I'm not sure of the best place to find these since I had a number of them in my tool collection already. If you're crafty enough you can use almost anything to sculpt with though such as tooth picks or bent pieces of wire.
If it were matched to a higher profile top row, I'd be all over these.
If it were matched to a higher profile top row, I'd be all over these.
I'm going to start on this relatively soon. It might be a while, considering how long it took me to make the original.
Question on key cap profile though.. The tallest key cap I have at my disposal is a number row from a poker II. I'm not familiar with anything but DSA profile so I'm not sure if the poker number key is the same shape as a F-row key from another Cherry mx board. I also see that it is angled more in the front than the back.
Can anyone confirm if this would be a good choice to start with?
If it were matched to a higher profile top row, I'd be all over these.
I'm going to start on this relatively soon. It might be a while, considering how long it took me to make the original.
Question on key cap profile though.. The tallest key cap I have at my disposal is a number row from a poker II. I'm not familiar with anything but DSA profile so I'm not sure if the poker number key is the same shape as a F-row key from another Cherry mx board. I also see that it is angled more in the front than the back.
Can anyone confirm if this would be a good choice to start with?
I can send you a few F)row key caps from my OE Quickfire Rapid set. PM me your address and I'll send a few
You could try a set of pottery trimming tools like these:Show Image(http://images.nitrosell.com/store_images/9/2167/customcontent/0/trimtools.jpg)
If it were matched to a higher profile top row, I'd be all over these.
I'm going to start on this relatively soon. It might be a while, considering how long it took me to make the original.
Question on key cap profile though.. The tallest key cap I have at my disposal is a number row from a poker II. I'm not familiar with anything but DSA profile so I'm not sure if the poker number key is the same shape as a F-row key from another Cherry mx board. I also see that it is angled more in the front than the back.
Can anyone confirm if this would be a good choice to start with?
I can send you a few F)row key caps from my OE Quickfire Rapid set. PM me your address and I'll send a few
Might have to take this offer if my poker key is the wrong shape. Are the double shot poker keys not standard cherry profile?
Nice job dude. Those are looking really good. I like that powder blue one.
Nice job dude. Those are looking really good. I like that powder blue one.
isn't that the master?
Ive been wanting to try my hand at this. I have 3 questions
1.) what did you make your molds in? Like was it a cup or??
2.) how did you make separate molds for the top and bottom?
3.) is there that you put on the molds to release the cap after it has dried?