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This started out as a personal project to replace my chipped Filco case and also to give my Phantom a case, but after several turn of events, a partner who’s helping me with the project and I decided to make the case available for sale should it turn out anything more than decent. And in all honesty, it appears that it might very well be =)
We have yet to get a final piece done as we still need several more tools and materials before we can complete one, but here is our progress thus far.
The case will consist of 3 layers of solid wood + a centre frame CNC’ed from a grade 304 stainless steel plate.
This was the very first trial, made from what google points out to be ‘peronema canescens’ (?)
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(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_5048.jpg)
2nd prototype was made from teak wood..
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(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_4863.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_4851.jpg)
To attain the contrast with the stainless steel I am trying to achieve, the teak wood was dyed to a dark brown and finished with lacquer.
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(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_4924.jpg)
Final product would be of a different wood, but with similar finish minus the tint/dye, so the natural wood grain will remain visible under the clear coat.
And this is what I really intend the case to be made of….
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Ebony wood.
Mind the studs and rough edges as the wood have not been given any sort of finishing, nor any sanding yet.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_5065.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_5055.jpg)
Material and production cost could be cut down should I make the bottom part 1/3 of its current size, but cost isn't my primary concern =)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_4975-1.jpg)
Tested with an unsoldered Phantom kit in ANSI125 layout:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_5066.jpg)
Unfortunately, out of all the Ebony timber I purchased, it turned out only 3 planks are barely wide enough for a TKL case, and that is not a good odds.
Also, process time unexpectedly multiplies significantly because not only is the material significantly harder and denser, the shortage of width in the materials will require additional steps before it can be processed.
Due to the difficulty in obtaining Ebony wood that is sufficiently wide, I am considering to have the Ebony case only available upon request and pricing could be quite steep. Also, no promises on the availability of the wood, I’m afraid.
The other alternative to consider would be Indian Rosewood, but I have no experience on them to know how they would turn out.
However, before I commit to further invest on this project, I’d like to roughly know whether or not anyone would be interested in these wood cases.
The rather bitter fact is, a case made of teak costs roughly around $250-280 price range and I expect it would roughly cost the same for Indian Rosewood.
And that excludes the 1.5mm steel plate.
For use as a Phantom case, the common Phantom/Universal plate circling about is *not* compatible with the case, so plates will have to be purchased separately. The laser-cut stainless steel plate pictured above costs around $30-40 depending on quantity, but I’m not quite pleased with the results and will be trying to source them from a different workshop.
The plate, however, won’t be required if it were to be used as a Filco case and purchases of the case sans plate are more than welcome.
Plate design was referenced from the Phantom files collated by MOZ. Thank you, Moz.
And my sincerest thanks to bpiphany, jdcarpe, WhiteFireDragon for permitting me to use their plate designs.
Tried to get permission from litster but he misunderstood it for something else, will try to reach him again.
I am also considering to sand/bead blast at least the centre stainless steel frame which I have yet to find out the place and cost for doing it.
But... for now, I'm trying to gauge interest on how many would be interested in a $250-280 wood TKL case - tentatively, material would be Indian Rosewood.
(Pricing excludes plate, metal finish, shipping/Paypal fees - shipping will be from Indonesia, preferably by EMS)
More pics:
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I'll be needing another 1-2 weeks to finish the Ebony case, in the meantime, I've tested the teak case to be fully functional as a Filco case.
Here's some photos of it in action as a Filco case.
Was perfect timing to be used as an entry in the recent PimpYourFilco contest. Failed to win a spot though =)
(N.B. Different screws will be used in the final product.)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_4998_merged.jpg)
Its adjustable feet in live action.
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Margin of error for the feet placement is pretty tight. Only 1 out of 4 feet done works as intended but the ones that "failed" still snapped back into place.
It only didn't produce that 'click' when raised, but still serves its purpose well nonetheless =)
Your opinions would be greatly valued and would appreciate it if you could kindly fill in the Fancy Google Form (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1MxLmJXUJqitcUGqs4WqWlI9XQDiEYjAq3x0Ze6yraIA) for this IC.
For question #2, here (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/base%20options.jpg) is a quick drawing to give an idea how each base will look like.
The small base will require moderately tall bumpon stickers just so the front section of the case won't be pressing on the table.
The flat base will require the entire keyboard to be at least 2.7cm tall, and will be missing the adjustable feet entirely.
The ANSI"175" in question #3 would refer to this (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/ANSI175_.jpg) plate. A proposed layout to (hopefully) cover both ANSI125 and ANSI150 layout. The catch is, the circled portion have to be grind off manually.
I will have to test it out first, but theoretically, it seems that it could work.
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Probably out of my price range at the moment but if I had the money I'd totally be in, absolutely beautiful work.
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Well, that is gorgeous. Really nice keycaps as well, wow.
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The ebony case is absolutely beautiful!
Does the steelplate allow switch top removal without desoldering? I'd be interested in an ANSI 1.5 layout.
I prefer my keyboards flat on the table. Is there an option to get a bottom part that is not angled?
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I'm in this if you decide to proceed with it because there is no other case design which even comes close to yours :thumb: .
Just make sure that the material you are cutting and fashioning the case from is 100% seasoned wood. The final top coat has to be a 2-part clear finish because that is the ABSOLUTE hardest clear coat to apply on any wood finish.
If you really are interested in using the best materials in realizing this keyboard then sign me up.
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That is incredibly gorgeous! But as a student, this is out of my spending capacity for a case. I'll take one in a few years, maybe. :)
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But... for now, I'm trying to gauge interest on how many would be interested in a $250-280 wood TKL case - tentatively, material would be Indian Rosewood.
(Pricing excludes plate, metal finish, shipping/Paypal fees - shipping will be from Indonesia, preferably by EMS)
I like the fact you are doing it in Indonesia because I'm located deep south in the city of Perth, Western Australia hence the postal cost should be next to nothing 8) .
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Interested as a Filco case.
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Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god. That is STUNNING.
I'm selling my TKL soon, but seeing this makes me want to keep it :(
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Probably out of my price range at the moment but if I had the money I'd totally be in, absolutely beautiful work.
That is incredibly gorgeous! But as a student, this is out of my spending capacity for a case. I'll take one in a few years, maybe. :)
If there is sufficient demand, I might be making this (and several other wooden products) for some time, and might even set up a thread in the 'artisan services' subsection.
Should that happen, you guys can contact me anytime when you need one ;)
Well, that is gorgeous. Really nice keycaps as well, wow.
Thank you for the kind words, Beca.
The ebony case is absolutely beautiful!
Does the steelplate allow switch top removal without desoldering? I'd be interested in an ANSI 1.5 layout.
I prefer my keyboards flat on the table. Is there an option to get a bottom part that is not angled?
Yes, the stainless steel plate has the notches to allow switch top removal without disordering.
However, we’ll have to collect enough orders of the same layout to make pricing reasonable. Seeing ANSI150 is a popular one, we could very well make it our default plate layout ;)
The current design is angled at about 5º with its adjustable feet folded in. About 10º when raised.
Technically it’s very much possible to make the bottom part flat. Would actually even reduce production time and cost =)
However, if it is ok with you, I’d like to wait for a few more days to see the interests in this. If it ended up to be less than a handful, I can try to arrange to make each order a custom order =)
But your liking for the Ebony case may be a difficult one to please (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/email/emote/emoji/B5.png)
I'm in this if you decide to proceed with it because there is no other case design which even comes close to yours :thumb: .
Just make sure that the material you are cutting and fashioning the case from is 100% seasoned wood. The final top coat has to be a 2-part clear finish because that is the ABSOLUTE hardest clear coat to apply on any wood finish.
If you really are interested in using the best materials in realizing this keyboard then sign me up.
Thank you for the compliment, Elrick.
Unfortunately, I’m not certain of the moisture content in the wood used for the prototypes and that includes the Ebony wood.
It is, however, in my best interest to get the best materials to get this going, but sadly getting my hands on Ebony wood wasn't easy, moreover one which has already been kiln dried. And kiln drying a small amount of them would not be feasible.
But should Indian Rosewood be the final choice of material, I'll definitely try to get them already seasoned well.
As for the finishing, I could have it coated in polyurethane, which should provide a hardened finish and are quite resistant to scratches.
But I am open to suggestions and will try my best to get it fulfilled =)
Actually, once I get the Ebony case completed, I am planning to offer it to one lucky (or unlucky?) individual at an "introductory" price for review, before producing more of them for sale.
You seem to know how you like your wood, and could make one good candidate, Elrick :)
I like the fact you are doing it in Indonesia because I'm located deep south in the city of Perth, Western Australia hence the postal cost should be next to nothing 8) .
Yeah, Indonesia is the very next country above you. And being in Perth makes us even closer :thumb:
Interested as a Filco case.
Thank you for your interest, pasph :thumb:
Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god. That is STUNNING.
I'm selling my TKL soon, but seeing this makes me want to keep it :(
Keeping a TKL shouldn't take up too much space in your collection, pexon ;)
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That is absolutely stunning. Amazing work.
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Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god. That is STUNNING.
I'm selling my TKL soon, but seeing this makes me want to keep it :(
I wrote something stupid hence I have now retracted it. Sorry Tubby :-[ .
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The current design is angled at about 5º with its adjustable feet folded in. About 10º when raised.
Technically it’s very much possible to make the bottom part flat. Would actually even reduce production time and cost =)
However, if it is ok with you, I’d like to wait for a few more days to see the interests in this. If it ended up to be less than a handful, I can try to arrange to make each order a custom order =)
Having a flat base sounds like a great option if you ever do a second run, I'd have no problems attaching some feet to the bottom if it reduced the price.
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Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god, Oh god. That is STUNNING.
I'm selling my TKL soon, but seeing this makes me want to keep it :(
I wrote something stupid hence I have now retracted it. Sorry Tubby :-[ .
I think it was a valid concern.
Remember what happened to Takaki's acrylic case GB? Started out very promising as well...
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The current design is angled at about 5º with its adjustable feet folded in. About 10º when raised.
Technically it’s very much possible to make the bottom part flat. Would actually even reduce production time and cost =)
However, if it is ok with you, I’d like to wait for a few more days to see the interests in this. If it ended up to be less than a handful, I can try to arrange to make each order a custom order =)
But your liking for the Ebony case may be a difficult one to please Show Image
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/email/emote/emoji/B5.png)
Thanks for your fast reply :thumb:
Maybe you should go for the flat design since many people want to keep costs as low as possible.
The adjustable feet could be offered as an extra set item.
And concerning the ebony wood ... I just like darker woods in general - it doesn't have to be ebony ;)
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Cool. I'm planning a steel-wood-steel phantom case right now.
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And concerning the ebony wood ... I just like darker woods in general - it doesn't have to be ebony ;)
Any type of wood really just as long as you could clearly see the texture and swirls of the wood in all it's glory. Make it like the Jaguar factory use to do with Walnut dashboards in the 1940's.
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That is absolutely stunning. Amazing work.
Thank you very much, Photekq. Means a lot coming from you.
I wrote something stupid hence I have now retracted it. Sorry Tubby :-[ .
Hey, don't be Elrick =)
I read the post before you edit it and I'm totally fine should you left it the way it was =)
And I totally understand your concern, especially after seeing several GBs going wrong with either subpar products, bad mailing boxes, or the OP leaving everything altogether.
I may not be active here at GH, but my enthusiasm for mechanical keyboards have dated quite a while back and have been a GH member for quite sometime too.
I was also one, if not the most active member at a local forum. Webwit should be able to justify that as he dropped by our local forum a few times back when I was still active there =)
I contributed quite a number of reviews there (here's one (http://www.kaskus.co.id/post/508900c91a7608b64c000023) written in English should anyone need proof of my "résumé") and have held several GBs locally, and one of the largest being 7bit's RD4 (which took an eternity, I might add :p). So I may appear to be a newbie here, but I am a long time player =)
And if it helps to ease anyone's concern, if this sale do proceed, my plan is to only take small number of orders initially, perhaps 5 sets max. And I will only collect 50% as downpayment for production to start. That way, not an awful lot of money is entrusted in me.
Once I post photos of the completed cases, I collect the remaining half + any other fees, and have them shipped as early as I possibly can and provide tracking numbers to the buyers.
As for my competence, I'm not even sure myself :p
Hence, I'd like someone to purchase the first set (or rather what I would consider prototype #3)... someone reputable here (and meticulous.... meticulous like Ripster-level-meticulous =p), and they be the judge of the quality of the case. Should it need some adjustments, I'd gladly accept all inputs. But should it be a total disappointment, I'll buy back the case and stop making cases =)
Would that be fair enough? If anyone have any better suggestion, I would be more than happy to hear them. Anything at all, and no offense will be taken =)
Having a flat base sounds like a great option if you ever do a second run, I'd have no problems attaching some feet to the bottom if it reduced the price.
Thanks for your fast reply :thumb:
Maybe you should go for the flat design since many people want to keep costs as low as possible.
The adjustable feet could be offered as an extra set item.
I'll definitely be putting that into consideration should many prefer them flat and yes pricing will definitely go down (and weight goes up :) )
It would appear rather tall and bulky though; around 3cm tall all around. Won't match any common wrist rests =)
Another alternative is to actually do make the bottom part 1/3 of the current size. But I predict pricing will drop no more than $30.
And concerning the ebony wood ... I just like darker woods in general - it doesn't have to be ebony ;)
Any type of wood really just as long as you could clearly see the texture and swirls of the wood in all it's glory. Make it like the Jaguar factory use to do with Walnut dashboards in the 1940's.
Indian Rosewood can be dark, and have quite contrast-y patterns too =) The darkest one may sometimes be quite difficult to distinguish from Ebony, but commonly they have a lighter and redder shade.
I'd have to google the 1940 Jaguar dashboard to get a picture though =)
Cool. I'm planning a steel-wood-steel phantom case right now.
Just the opposite :p
Can't wait to see your project unfold, Kakkun :thumb:
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Would probably be pricey as hell but Zebrawood would look amazing as well!
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amazing works my friends :p :thumb: :thumb:
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Would probably be pricey as hell but Zebrawood would look amazing as well!
I think $250+ for an all wooden case with a bit of stainless plate involved is quite good. I sure don't want him to make a keyboard that puts him out of pocket because for a beginner trying to please the Geekhack crowd here, can be quite 'poisonous' for the builder.
Sure it's nice to get something super cheap but the builder will put a lot of time cutting, shaping and finishing wood which isn't easy as materials go due to it's own peculiarities with every single piece.
I sure love the fact that each and every single keyboard will be different due to using timber so that gets me excited to no end 8) .
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Very cool. Interested! I also prefer the darker woods but i'm not picky.
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Would probably be pricey as hell but Zebrawood would look amazing as well!
If I'm not misinformed, Zebrawood unfortunately don't grow readily here, so I can't provide that as an option.
This (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/Screen%20Shot%202014-06-14%20at%208.34.15%20PM.png), however, is the wood that appeal most to me =) My supplier have some of these, but I was told they aren't of high grade, have high moisture content and their size are far from being wide enough for keyboard cases. Would make one beautiful rest if they are of decent grade though =)
amazing works my friends :p :thumb: :thumb:
Thank you for the kind words, om Hendo :thumb:
I think $250+ for an all wooden case with a bit of stainless plate involved is quite good. I sure don't want him to make a keyboard that puts him out of pocket because for a beginner trying to please the Geekhack crowd here, can be quite 'poisonous' for the builder.
Sure it's nice to get something super cheap but the builder will put a lot of time cutting, shaping and finishing wood which isn't easy as materials go due to it's own peculiarities with every single piece.
I sure love the fact that each and every single keyboard will be different due to using timber so that gets me excited to no end 8) .
Thank you for your understanding, Elrick. That really put my heart at ease.
I, however, want to put things straight and clarify that we will be making some profit from this. If this proceeds, it will be a sale instead of a GB.
However, we try to push and give as good a deal as possible to cover our efforts as I have started and been funding this project for the past 7 months.
As it stands, there are a lot of parts, components, and fixtures involved in a set; some of them imported. I even have several funky contraption specially made just to get the adjustable feet where it is =p
We don't want the case to be costing an arm and a leg either, but we decide the current price range is the best we could offer.
And yes every set will be different from the next. And for the record, for a prototype, I naturally picked the lesser attractive Ebony wood from the 3 usable planks I have, so yes, they can be more beautiful than this =)
Very cool. Interested! I also prefer the darker woods but i'm not picky.
Thank you for your interest, Cafiend.
I am hoping to be able to get a good supply of Indian Rosewood which would look similar to one of these (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/Screen%20Shot%202014-06-14%20at%209.05.56%20PM.png).
I hope it's dark enough to pass as a 'darker wood' =)
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Make me a 60% and I'm in then lol
For some reason, my collection has been getting smaller (in terms of keyboard size, not quantitiy lol)
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Make me a 60% and I'm in then lol
For some reason, my collection has been getting smaller (in terms of keyboard size, not quantitiy lol)
Some of the "unusable" Ebony wood stocks I currently have will turn into a few 60% version someday.
But they will most likely be designed for Poker/PokerII specifically as those are the only 60% boards I own to do the measurements and drawing.... and that plan won't come to realization for at least a few months from now I'm afraid (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/email/emote/emoji/B5.png)
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OK then, put me down for a Poker 2 case in any spare wood going :thumb:
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OK then, put me down for a Poker 2 case in any spare wood going :thumb:
yeah id be down for a 60%
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Looks very classy. Awesome prototypes!
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OK then, put me down for a Poker 2 case in any spare wood going :thumb:
yeah id be down for a 60%
Now look what you've stirred, Pexon :p
My initial plan was a TKL case > TKL/60% rests > an Ergodox case > 60% cases > keycaps(?)
Looks like I might need to move 60% up a queue :))
Looks very classy. Awesome prototypes!
Thank you, feizor.
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I don't want it flat and i prefer a quality that justify the price rather than vice versa
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Maybe one out of pink ivory (though I realize the difficulty of working with it)
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That really looks amazing, I would totally be in for one if the price wasn't exorbitant.
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OK then, put me down for a Poker 2 case in any spare wood going :thumb:
yeah id be down for a 60%
Now look what you've stirred, Pexon :p
My initial plan was a TKL case > TKL/60% rests > an Ergodox case > 60% cases > keycaps(?)
Looks like I might need to move 60% up a queue :))
Looks very classy. Awesome prototypes!
Thank you, feizor.
Hey, supply and demand brother! No but seriously, GIVE ME A 60%! :))
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Excellent work you have there bro!! two thumbs up!!
Anyway .... count me in for 60% (poker compatible) wood-steel case.
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I don't want it flat and i prefer a quality that justify the price rather than vice versa
My thoughts exactly. Might as well go the whole nine yards rather than saving some $, especially on something where aesthetic value is the primary concern.
But I’ll let the community cast their votes, and decide prior to the sale on how to best approach it =)
Maybe one out of pink ivory (though I realize the difficulty of working with it)
Looking at their specifications, they are not harder nor denser than Ebony, so they should still be workable =)
Getting a hold of the materials would be a different story though (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/email/emote/emoji/B5.png)
That really looks amazing, I would totally be in for one if the price wasn't exorbitant.
Thank you. But I'm real sorry about the pricing. There are a lot of processes involved to complete a set, hope you could understand.
Hey, supply and demand brother! No but seriously, GIVE ME A 60%! :))
Okay, okay... 60% have been bumped up a queue :))
Still will take months before its turn though.... hope you guys will not be playing around with your GH40 by then :))
Excellent work you have there bro!! two thumbs up!!
Anyway .... count me in for 60% (poker compatible) wood-steel case.
Long time no see, om behemot (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/email/emote/emoji/wave.png)
I'll jot that down... "another +1 for 60%"
But guys... do please keep in mind this isn't quite the IC for that :'( Pexxooonnnn!! (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/email/emote/DA/shakefist.gif) :))
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Just in case if anyone forgot, I still would want a wooden TKL keyboard, because that's the smallest one I can use comfortably :thumb: .
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Just in case if anyone forgot, I still would want a wooden TKL keyboard, because that's the smallest one I can use comfortably :thumb: .
+1
:p
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This case looks gorgeous. Would a bamboo version be be possible? I think that would look great, though I've been told it is a pain to work with.
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because that's the smallest one I can use comfortably :thumb: .
ditto :thumb:
Just in case if anyone forgot, I still would want a wooden TKL keyboard, because that's the smallest one I can use comfortably :thumb: .
+1
:p
Google form is up in the OP.
Would appreciate it if you guys could kindly fill the form so I can correctly tally your interests =)
This case looks gorgeous. Would a bamboo version be be possible? I think that would look great, though I've been told it is a pain to work with.
Thank you.
However, I will have to say bamboo would not be possible, as the current design requires the wood to be of certain hardness and I'm worried bamboo might not be hard enough.
I would like to work with only Ebony and Indian Rosewood for the initial batch to be on the safe side. Sorry about that, EppyKay.
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Form filled :)
Edit:
Just to clarify: The ANSI 1.5 Plate will have a stepped caps lock key placement and this bottom row right?
1.5 - 1 - 1.5 - 7 - 1.5 - 1 -1.5
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Google form is up in the OP.
Would appreciate it if you guys could kindly fill the form so I can correctly tally your interests =)
Have just filled your form, I really like your original sectional viewpoint showing how the keyboard will sit on the desk.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/base%20options.jpg (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/base%20options.jpg)
The top version is the one I like because it's traditional and looks like a typical Korean Custom keyboard. Maybe if you copy a traditional IBM SSK shell that would appeal to traditional keyboardists that love the overall shape of an SSK but loathe the internals which are old and past it (yes I expect loads of fanboy hate here ;) ). Would be nice to have an all MX switch keyboard made from wood in the shape of an SSK :thumb: .
You tubby would actually be the FIRST person to ever undertake this if you choose to do it.
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There isn't a "yes" choice to the last question
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Form filled :)
Edit:
Just to clarify: The ANSI 1.5 Plate will have a stepped caps lock key placement and this bottom row right?
1.5 - 1 - 1.5 - 7 - 1.5 - 1 -1.5
Much appreciated LechnerDE (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/email/emote/emoji/worship.png)
I will, again, be using the files from MOZ's thread as a template. Looking at the files, the CapsLock switch hole is elongated so it should fit both regular and stepped CapsLock layout.
The bottom row also appears to be able to fit 1.5-1-1.5-7-1.5-1-1.5 layout but I'll double check with MOZ if he don't mind =)
In the meantime this (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/ANSI150.png) is how the ANSI150 plate from his thread looks like.
Have just filled your form, I really like your original sectional viewpoint showing how the keyboard will sit on the desk.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/base%20options.jpg (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/base%20options.jpg)
The top version is the one I like because it's traditional and looks like a typical Korean Custom keyboard. Maybe if you copy a traditional IBM SSK shell that would appeal to traditional keyboardists that love the overall shape of an SSK but loathe the internals which are old and past it (yes I expect loads of fanboy hate here ;) ). Would be nice to have an all MX switch keyboard made from wood in the shape of an SSK :thumb: .
You tubby would actually be the FIRST person to ever undertake this if you choose to do it.
Thank you, Elrick.
Yes, the original angled design bear more resemblance to a Korean custom while the small feet design would be closer to an acrylic case.
As of now there are 3x as many favoring the original design over the flat base, and still no vote on the small feet =)
Intriguing idea, Elrick :) But my concept for a wood case aims for the other end of the spectrum which is a contemporary look =)
Not entirely impossible though, cept I will need to invest on an SSK first :p
Yeah, I notice there seems to be some jinx with wood cases which is a huge shame :(
But I'm really having my fingers crossed for this to come to realization, and hopefully throwing a stainless steel part in could nullify the jinx (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/email/emote/emoji/B5.png)
There isn't a "yes" choice to the last question
Just trying to pull somebody's finger ;p
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As of now there are 3x as many favoring the original design over the flat base
Hmm, looking at this picture it seems the angled base is simply screwed to the bottom layer of the case.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_4975-1.jpg)
Am I not seeing something or why can't it be optional for people who prefer a flat case?
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Yeah, I notice there seems to be some jinx with wood cases which is a huge shame :(
But I'm really having my fingers crossed for this to come to realization, and hopefully throwing a stainless steel part in could nullify the jinx Show Image
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/email/emote/emoji/B5.png)
YES wood is extremely difficult to stabilize because it's a dead organic material as opposed to plastic, steel or rock which is all lifeless materials.
Your biggest problem will be to stop the casing from flexing when temps rise or fall PLUS if any moisture is absorbed you will have all sorts of problems with fitment and usage. Maybe that is why there are so few examples of any keyboard cases made from wood ;) .
Some how you need to seal the wood against external temps and conditions that was why I mentioned 2-part clear epoxy because that stuff is near bullet-proof when it's cured on the surface. Although it's a b1tch to apply correctly and having heating ovens to help you reach a fast cured state after application, will be expensive.
Just make sure if you are serious about going down the path of misery and pain ask yourself this one question, will it all be worth it?
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It looks like a lot of the plate designs you're sharing have a common, but somewhat serious, flaw in them. The 2x stabilized keys have a little extra material that prevents you from opening the switch tops. I purchased a Phantom plate awhile back that had the same design flaw - http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=53761.msg1245309#msg1245309
You might want to check with jdcarpe about different plate designs. His drawings were the source I used for my stainless plate group buy and they were absolutely perfect.
Anyways, best of luck with these. If I didn't need to drop a couple hundred bucks on new tires for my car right now I would almost definitely order one!
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Thanks for pointing this out strict!
Please take all the time you need tubby to perfect the design. I wouldn't wanna spend hundreds of dollars on a case with flaws...
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Hmm, looking at this picture it seems the angled base is simply screwed to the bottom layer of the case.
Show Image
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_4975-1.jpg)
Am I not seeing something or why can't it be optional for people who prefer a flat case?
If I understand your statement correctly, you are under the impression that those preferring a flat design could simply get a set without the angled base layer. Would my understanding be correct?
If that is your assumption, sadly that is not the case. A base cover is needed to partially contain the Phantom's teensy controller / Filco cable connector and the cable itself.
So a flat case would require a differently made layer for its base.
In my case design, this base layer is also used for cable routing, so the user have the option of having the cable stick out from either the left/centre/right.
Drawback is, you will need to have the case opened to reroute the cable =)
YES wood is extremely difficult to stabilize because it's a dead organic material as opposed to plastic, steel or rock which is all lifeless materials.
Your biggest problem will be to stop the casing from flexing when temps rise or fall PLUS if any moisture is absorbed you will have all sorts of problems with fitment and usage. Maybe that is why there are so few examples of any keyboard cases made from wood ;) .
Some how you need to seal the wood against external temps and conditions that was why I mentioned 2-part clear epoxy because that stuff is near bullet-proof when it's cured on the surface. Although it's a b1tch to apply correctly and having heating ovens to help you reach a fast cured state after application, will be expensive.
Just make sure if you are serious about going down the path of misery and pain ask yourself this one question, will it all be worth it?
Yes, that is indeed one of the biggest concern when working with wood. But, seemingly, the wood case projects that didn't make it to production doesn't appear to be related to this. Some of the ones I saw just seems to be abandoned without any disclosed reason.
Although I don't think I will be able to fulfill the oven curing step, I can strive to get most parts coated to prevent significant moisture absorption.
And apart from having the stainless steel mid section for aesthetic reasons, I am also hoping it could help minimize any warping on the wood layers to some extent.
It's not the misery and pain from the effort that I'm worried about, but rather the time. The unfinished Ebony prototype for instance took almost a week, and would require another week to get it finished and dried properly. And that is not counting the steel parts. If at all possible, I am hoping production time won't be required to be stretched even longer (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/email/emote/emoji/B5.png)
But I've been through a lot to progress thus far, and it was all worth it. Even though I am actually hoping that the worst part has passed :p
It looks like a lot of the plate designs you're sharing have a common, but somewhat serious, flaw in them. The 2x stabilized keys have a little extra material that prevents you from opening the switch tops. I purchased a Phantom plate awhile back that had the same design flaw - http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=53761.msg1245309#msg1245309
You might want to check with jdcarpe about different plate designs. His drawings were the source I used for my stainless plate group buy and they were absolutely perfect.
Anyways, best of luck with these. If I didn't need to drop a couple hundred bucks on new tires for my car right now I would almost definitely order one!
I just tried to remove the long switch keys on mine, and yes the files I used indeed also have that part sticking out too long, preventing switch top removal. Very grateful for the headsup, strict!
It seems the top part needs to be shortened for better clearance, but I will definitely talk to jdcarpe whether this really is all that is required. Thanks again, strict!
Love your sig btw :))
Thanks for pointing this out strict!
Please take all the time you need tubby to perfect the design. I wouldn't wanna spend hundreds of dollars on a case with flaws...
Definitely, LechnerDE! I do not want my case to disappoint anyone either (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/email/emote/emoji/B5.png)
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I just tried to remove the long switch keys on mine, and yes the files I used indeed also have that part sticking out too long, preventing switch top removal. Very grateful for the headsup, strict!
It seems the top part needs to be shortened for better clearance, but I will definitely talk to jdcarpe whether this really is all that is required. Thanks again, strict!
Love your sig btw :))
I'm just happy I could contribute in some way to your very impressive project! :thumb:
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Hmm, looking at this picture it seems the angled base is simply screwed to the bottom layer of the case.
Show Image
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_4975-1.jpg)
Am I not seeing something or why can't it be optional for people who prefer a flat case?
If I understand your statement correctly, you are under the impression that those preferring a flat design could simply get a set without the angled base layer. Would my understanding be correct?
If that is your assumption, sadly that is not the case. A base cover is needed to partially contain the Phantom's teensy controller / Filco cable connector and the cable itself.
So a flat case would require a differently made layer for its base.
In my case design, this base layer is also used for cable routing, so the user have the option of having the cable stick out from either the left/centre/right.
Drawback is, you will need to have the case opened to reroute the cable =)
Ah, I see. I guess I could live with the small angle without the feet poped out.
I still hope there is a solution that keeps the costs as low as possible ;)
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...
In my case design, this base layer is also used for cable routing, so the user have the option of having the cable stick out from either the left/centre/right.
Drawback is, you will need to have the case opened to reroute the cable =)
...
I like this very much, specially if the left and right are really on the sides and not on the top face.
This can let you put the keyboard really close to a laptop, for instance.
What is your idea on this?
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I'm just happy I could contribute in some way to your very impressive project! :thumb:
You're being too kind. My sincere thanks once again, strict. Enjoy your ride with the new tires :thumb:
Ah, I see. I guess I could live with the small angle without the feet poped out.
I still hope there is a solution that keeps the costs as low as possible ;)
So you won't mind the angled design? =D
As for pushing the cost down, seeing that you like to have minimum tilt, I can exclude the adjustable feet and reduce the cost slightly.
It will be minimal though as the aforementioned price have everything baked in, including molds/jigs, research time, funky contraption....
So it wouldn't be fair on my part if I have to cut down a huge chunk of the price every time someone requests a component removed, if you understand what I mean ^^; plus it will actually be extra work as every different request have to be made separately =)
But if it means a lot to shave off $10-30, I can try to look into where I can cut corners, hopefully not too much on the product itself, but on other stuffs that I have planned to include with every purchase.
For example, I'm planning to place order for custom boxes for safe shipping. I can try to reuse available boxes instead.
I plan to include required hex keys so those who don't have them handy can start assembling once they receive their case. I can exclude those.
They won't be much, but it adds up.
Let me know if that is good for you... or if the community prefers it that way too.
I like this very much, specially if the left and right are really on the sides and not on the top face.
This can let you put the keyboard really close to a laptop, for instance.
What is your idea on this?
Yes, for the left/right route, the cable will jut out from the sides =)
I will try to get pictures of them tomorrow, but mind you that this currently only applies for the Phantom case.
When using the default Filco cable, it can only be routed straight up from the centre of the case.
I plan on making custom cables to make it possible for the Filco to have its cable routed to the sides, but I can't promise anything before actually putting it to work =)
Edit:
Here (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_5138.jpg) is the photo to show how the cable would stick out when routed to the side, and also how it would look as a Filco case.
When routed to the side, the cable will leave the keyboard at a 45º angle so the cable can go straight horizontally, straight vertically, or angled without much tension.
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Interested in getting the sideways route for a filco. Maybe one of the custom detachable cables already available could be used. Optimally, a detachable cable and a straight side route would let one choose his favorite configuration - with the fixed female USB "integrated" in the case.
So many variables that in the end almost every case will be unique.
These will be the work of an artist. :)
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any chance this could include qfr's? i know the cases are a little different, so not trying to pour gas on a fire.
if not that is cool-- would need to get a filco
what about mahogany while i am asking?
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Interested in getting the sideways route for a filco. Maybe one of the custom detachable cables already available could be used. Optimally, a detachable cable and a straight side route would let one choose his favorite configuration - with the fixed female USB "integrated" in the case.
So many variables that in the end almost every case will be unique.
These will be the work of an artist. :)
I remember seeing someone offering custom braided Filco cables (the ones with the 5pin molex connector). Those could more than likely make use of the side cable routes, but if the lengths encased within the case is also braided, I might have to make the cable routes slightly wider and deeper. Currently the cable routes can snuggly fit cables up to 5mm in diameter.
An "integrated" female miniUSB port would be for the V2 of the case =) However, it will be at the expense of losing the 45º angle and the current plan is to only have one port at the back side of the case (most likely at the top right hand side of the case).
Thanks for the compliment, nilpt. I sure hope I can see this through... and eventually get to the V2 in the not-so-distant future =)
any chance this could include qfr's? i know the cases are a little different, so not trying to pour gas on a fire.
if not that is cool-- would need to get a filco
what about mahogany while i am asking?
I don't currently own a QFR to make measurements of them and they have the miniUSB female port at the centre of the bottom case which I have yet to figure out how to implement on a wood case.
However, I'm looking forward to get a WASD V2 87 (once they restock the clear MX that is) and will look into whether or not it will be possible to make a wood case for it. Their miniUSB port look largely similar to a QFR, so if a WASD case is possible, I don't see why a QFR wouldn't be =)
As for mahogany, they do grow locally and are widely available. However, I'd rather not have them as an option because native mahogany durability are locally rated as class II-III wood (some sources even rate them as class VI-V), hardness class III, average specific gravity of 0.64.
As opposed to Indian Rosewood with durability of class II, hardness class I (some II), avg. specific gravity 0.90. And Ebony durability I, hardness I, avg. specific gravity 1.05.
And I can promise you, the wood grains on both Ebony and Indian Rosewood are a lot more beautiful than that of the local Mahogany ;)
btw... very nice collection, terrpn!
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Idaian Rosewood PLEASE!!!
I need dat heavy!!!
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Idaian Rosewood PLEASE!!!
I need dat heavy!!!
Now we're talking :thumb:
Would appreciate it if you could sign your interest in the Google form, and yes, paw prints would be fine (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/email/emote/dog_paw_print_black_S.png) :)
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Just to give a rough idea what to expect in terms of the weight of the case.
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All are weighed without all proper screws installed and without cables. And this is the Ebony case. I expect an Indian Rosewood case would only be slightly lighter.
Weight of the bare bone case
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_5140.jpg)
Weight of the case + 1.5mm stainless steel plate
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_5141.jpg)
Weight of the case + 1.5mm plate + Phantom PCB + 87 switches
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_5142.jpg)
Weight of the case + Filco TKL innards.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_5143.jpg)
They are nowhere as heavy as aluminum cases, but will be about 50% heavier from a default Filco TKL
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The response sheet shows that most are planning to use it as a Filco case. And the small number of people interested in it for a Phantom are further divided into 2 equal parties; that is 1/2 wanting a ANSI125 plate, while the other 1/2 are interested in an ANSI150 plate.
This could pose a bit of a problem.
I am planning to let this IC run for about another week or two before I start getting the wood materials to fulfill the 1st batch, and judging on the interests so far, the number of plate orders don't look like they will reach a reasonable amount before then.
We could push to only have 1 type of layout for the 1st batch.... or we could try to please both parties if I may propose to you.....
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an ANSI"175" layout ^-^
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/ANSI175_.JPG)
Only the circled bit needs to be grind off if used for an ANSI125 layout, which I can do for you, or if you prefer, you do it yourself should you haven't decide on your Phantom layout =)
The google form have been revised. Feel free to refill the form should you not mind this approach.
I will, of course, be testing the plate layout first before producing them in numbers.
Please kindly type your ID in so I can have the previous entry removed. Thank you.
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I'd probably be happy with either solution.
Has you thought about making the case compatible with existing Phantom/Universal plates? I'd guess most people who have a phantom waiting for a case already have a plate.
Also what makes the current plates incompatible? Would something like this adapter (http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=41464.0;attach=19210;image) work to make the plate fit in the case?
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Also what makes the current plates incompatible?
My apologies for the delayed reply, xavierblak. The above very question is actually something I've never asked myself before, so I have to test it out before having it answered.
I faced some hurdles while trying to design the case around existing plates, so I went to design my own plate and have always been under the impression that only my custom plate would fit the case. But I haven't actually given them a try.... not until just now.
And turns out the Phantom plate that I got from WFD could be dropped straight into the case =)
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(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_5221.jpg)
So these plates could very well be used with the case =)
I will try to confirm this tomorrow.
I have a Filco which uses an aluminum Universal plate (also gotten from WFD), which I wasn't too fond of because the alu plate makes the typing feel feels flimsy. This wood case have those circuitry-like patterns, planned to provide a good area of support to the PCB.
So this would be a good test to see if the Filco innards + alu Universal plate is compatible with the case and also to see whether those PCB support serves their purpose and be able to give a more solid typing feel.
I will try to test this out tomorrow and report my findings, hopefully with a video of test sounds.
Thank you for bringing this up, xavierblak! :thumb:
I don't quite understand the link to the "adapter" though. The link appears to bit pointing to a 60% plate.
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I will try to test this out tomorrow and report my findings, hopefully with a video of test sounds.
Thank you for bringing this up, xavierblak! :thumb:
I don't quite understand the link to the "adapter" though. The link appears to bit pointing to a 60% plate.
Cool. I'll look forward to see how this works out.
Sorry about the adapter link. What I meant to link to was this thread (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46827.0). I'm not 100% certain on how it works but I believe it's a plastic strip that fits between the plate and the pcb. It doesn't go flush with the plate and pcb so it provides a lip so that is can rest on the inside of the vortex case.
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fantastic work man
out of my price range but you deserve some few words of incentive!
awesome!
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Cool. I'll look forward to see how this works out.
Sorry about the adapter link. What I meant to link to was this thread (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46827.0). I'm not 100% certain on how it works but I believe it's a plastic strip that fits between the plate and the pcb. It doesn't go flush with the plate and pcb so it provides a lip so that is can rest on the inside of the vortex case.
Ah, that adapter =) If I understand the purpose of them correctly, they seem to provide extension lips so the Phantom plates can sit on top of the Vortex frame? If that is true, it is kind of the opposite from my case, which actually requires the Phantom plate to be marginally smaller than the middle frame.
But.... great news.... The Universal plate is compatible with my case after all! :thumb:
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This is my Filco that has its plate replaced with an alu Universal Plate.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_5231.jpg)
And said Filco placed and screwed in the wood case.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_5232.jpg)
The entire internal components will only be held by the two 2mm screws (circled in cyan) though, as opposed to having 9 additional 3mm screws, screwed to the middle metal frame when the custom plate is used (circled in yellow).
However, it could still be quite sufficient as it is how the Universal plate was intended to be used in a Filco case.
And the other good news is, the typing feel is a fair bit improved when moved from the Filco to the wood case. The non-stabilized keys feel crispier and is no longer as muted as when in a Filco case. The same, however, couldn't be said with the stabilized keys. They still feel mushy and have the unsatisfying 'thud' - purely subjective as the stabilizers are replaced with Cherry stabs, and I am never a fan of them, even after they have been clipped. However, they no longer feel (and sound) hollow in general.
Below is a video to demonstrate the sound difference between the two.
White Cherry MX + lubed (Krytox GPL103/205 in 1:1 ratio) + stickered
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fantastic work man
out of my price range but you deserve some few words of incentive!
awesome!
Thank you very much for the kind words of encouragement, agondinhost.
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But.... great news.... The Universal plate is compatible with my case after all! :thumb:
Awesome. I assume the plate you designed would probably be the best choice but this sounds like a good option for people looking to save having to buy another plate.
Been looking for a good case for my phantom. Hope this become a reality.
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Interested in getting the sideways route for a filco. Maybe one of the custom detachable cables already available could be used. Optimally, a detachable cable and a straight side route would let one choose his favorite configuration - with the fixed female USB "integrated" in the case.
So many variables that in the end almost every case will be unique.
These will be the work of an artist. :)
I remember seeing someone offering custom braided Filco cables (the ones with the 5pin molex connector). Those could more than likely make use of the side cable routes, but if the lengths encased within the case is also braided, I might have to make the cable routes slightly wider and deeper. Currently the cable routes can snuggly fit cables up to 5mm in diameter.
An "integrated" female miniUSB port would be for the V2 of the case =) However, it will be at the expense of losing the 45º angle and the current plan is to only have one port at the back side of the case (most likely at the top right hand side of the case).
Thanks for the compliment, nilpt. I sure hope I can see this through... and eventually get to the V2 in the not-so-distant future =)
any chance this could include qfr's? i know the cases are a little different, so not trying to pour gas on a fire.
if not that is cool-- would need to get a filco
what about mahogany while i am asking?
I don't currently own a QFR to make measurements of them and they have the miniUSB female port at the centre of the bottom case which I have yet to figure out how to implement on a wood case.
However, I'm looking forward to get a WASD V2 87 (once they restock the clear MX that is) and will look into whether or not it will be possible to make a wood case for it. Their miniUSB port look largely similar to a QFR, so if a WASD case is possible, I don't see why a QFR wouldn't be =)
As for mahogany, they do grow locally and are widely available. However, I'd rather not have them as an option because native mahogany durability are locally rated as class II-III wood (some sources even rate them as class VI-V), hardness class III, average specific gravity of 0.64.
As opposed to Indian Rosewood with durability of class II, hardness class I (some II), avg. specific gravity 0.90. And Ebony durability I, hardness I, avg. specific gravity 1.05.
And I can promise you, the wood grains on both Ebony and Indian Rosewood are a lot more beautiful than that of the local Mahogany ;)
btw... very nice collection, terrpn!
thanks for the heads up :thumb:
if this actually takes off it would be worth grabbing a filco and i appreciate your wood choice, sounds much better ;D
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Beautiful case!
I have quick question though and apologies if it's already been answered, I didn't go through all of the comments:
How do you source your wood and is it sustainable?
The only reason I ask is that I was interested in Mahogany but recently learnt that it's illegally logged in the Amazon and is protected quite heavily. I'd be interested to learn about the wood you're using.
Thanks!
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Awesome. I assume the plate you designed would probably be the best choice but this sounds like a good option for people looking to save having to buy another plate.
Been looking for a good case for my phantom. Hope this become a reality.
Yes, will be a great option for those looking to save, and will also make things alot easier for those already having a built Phantom as they won’t be needing to dissemble/reassemble their kit =)
Thank you for your support, xavierblak :thumb:
thanks for the heads up :thumb:
if this actually takes off it would be worth grabbing a filco and i appreciate your wood choice, sounds much better ;D
My pleasure, terrpn :thumb:
I’m rather surprised there’s not a Filco in your expansive collection :p
Beautiful case!
I have quick question though and apologies if it's already been answered, I didn't go through all of the comments:
How do you source your wood and is it sustainable?
The only reason I ask is that I was interested in Mahogany but recently learnt that it's illegally logged in the Amazon and is protected quite heavily. I'd be interested to learn about the wood you're using.
Thanks!
Thank you, smnanthny.
No, the question have not been brought up before, and will be happy to have them answered =)
Indian Rosewood are reasonably available here, despite being categorized as “vulnerable” by IUCN. I am currently in contact with a wood supplier who ensure their wood originates from controlled plantations and they have legal wood labels for them. If all goes well, I will be sourcing my Indian Rosewood supplies for them.
Ebony wood, on the other hand, are fairly well protected. The Ebony wood I have was sourced from a well-established supplier but I didn’t request any documentaries for them. This supplier, however, is currently unable to supply wide enough planks, so I will be looking for other suppliers and will ensure that they are legally logged from legal origins and will request documentaries to prove their legality.
As for Mahogany, I’m surprised they are heavily protected there and just found out they are also in the vulnerable category, but Mahogany wood are widely available here.
They are often used as door frames, wooden deckings and parquets.
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No, the question have not been brought up before, and will be happy to have them answered =)
Indian Rosewood are reasonably available here, despite being categorized as “vulnerable” by IUCN. I am currently in contact with a wood supplier who ensure their wood originates from controlled plantations and they have legal wood labels for them. If all goes well, I will be sourcing my Indian Rosewood supplies for them.
Ebony wood, on the other hand, are fairly well protected. The Ebony wood I have was sourced from a well-established supplier but I didn’t request any documentaries for them. This supplier, however, is currently unable to supply wide enough planks, so I will be looking for other suppliers and will ensure that they are legally logged from legal origins and will request documentaries to prove their legality.
As for Mahogany, I’m surprised they are heavily protected there and just found out they are also in the vulnerable category, but Mahogany wood are widely available here.
They are often used as door frames, wooden deckings and parquets.
I wanted Ebony Wood but because of it's current status then my next selections (let me know if you could get them) would be Bubinga, Koa (Brilliant when it comes to keeping it's original shape), Genuine Mahogany (NOT Phillippine's version), Purpleheart or Persimmon.
That are my selections for this future keyboard, please let me know which wood can be found 'legally' in your country 8) .
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Thank you, smnanthny.
No, the question have not been brought up before, and will be happy to have them answered =)
Indian Rosewood are reasonably available here, despite being categorized as “vulnerable” by IUCN. I am currently in contact with a wood supplier who ensure their wood originates from controlled plantations and they have legal wood labels for them. If all goes well, I will be sourcing my Indian Rosewood supplies for them.
Ebony wood, on the other hand, are fairly well protected. The Ebony wood I have was sourced from a well-established supplier but I didn’t request any documentaries for them. This supplier, however, is currently unable to supply wide enough planks, so I will be looking for other suppliers and will ensure that they are legally logged from legal origins and will request documentaries to prove their legality.
As for Mahogany, I’m surprised they are heavily protected there and just found out they are also in the vulnerable category, but Mahogany wood are widely available here.
They are often used as door frames, wooden deckings and parquets.
Awesome, that's good to know you're aware of where your wood is sourced :)
I was equally surprised about mahogany because like you said, there's a lot of products on the market but that is the problem, it's in huge demand and for no particularly good reason. The problem is how much deforestation has occured within just a few generations which is being done so illegally.
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Beautiful. I will be following this with great interest.
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I am deeply sorry for the lack of updates and for the delayed replies. I was hoping to give a response once I can be certain of what type of wood I could get, but as it turns out, Indian Rosewoods are difficult to obtain as most suppliers don't entertain small quantity purchases. I am waiting for a reply from another Indian Rosewood supplier who promised to get back to me sometime this week. I'll keep my fingers crossed for that.
On a brighter side.... I am introduced to a supplier who is able to supply wide Ebony planks :thumb:
The Ebony is of a different species and I am unable to confirm its scientific name, but this is how they look =)
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(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_5245.jpg)
The furthermost reddish plank is from the previous batch which is the batch I made the prototype Ebony case with (wood species is Diospyros celebica).
The two more neutral colored boards are the newly acquired Ebony wood.
And the square blank below it, is a sample of Diospyros celebica from the current supplier. The deeper color saturation might be due to higher moisture content, but they are doubtful that they have wide enough wood supply for that species.
Personally, I'm liking the neutral colored Ebony more, particularly because of their more exotic grain patterns.
I'm currently negotiating pricing for that species as their asking price is considerably higher compared to how much I got my last Ebony stock for (albeit of different species). If I can get a good enough price from them, it'll most likely be the choice of wood for those who opt for an Ebony case =)
I wanted Ebony Wood but because of it's current status then my next selections (let me know if you could get them) would be Bubinga, Koa (Brilliant when it comes to keeping it's original shape), Genuine Mahogany (NOT Phillippine's version), Purpleheart or Persimmon.
That are my selections for this future keyboard, please let me know which wood can be found 'legally' in your country 8) .
Koa and Bubinga would make a nice case/rest, and Purpleheart appears to have a nice level of hardness. But sadly, I am having a hard time trying to find information what they are locally called. And from the information I read, it is more than likely that none of the wood are from trees native to my country ^^;
However, it'll just be a matter of price, but it is very likely that I can get a good supply of the neutral colored Ebony.... legally too ;)
Awesome, that's good to know you're aware of where your wood is sourced :)
I was equally surprised about mahogany because like you said, there's a lot of products on the market but that is the problem, it's in huge demand and for no particularly good reason. The problem is how much deforestation has occured within just a few generations which is being done so illegally.
Sad to hear there a still a lot of illegal loggings occurring, but happy to inform that the current Ebony supplier I'm in contact with have permits for their wood :)
Beautiful. I will be following this with great interest.
Thank you for your interest.
I apologize for the slow progress though. I am hoping that things will progress a lot faster once I get my wood supply.
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Thanks for the update :thumb:
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These look awesome. I am unable to spend that kind of money for the next few months but I would love one in the darker colours.
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Thanks for the update :thumb:
Pleasure :thumb:
These look awesome. I am unable to spend that kind of money for the next few months but I would love one in the darker colours.
Thank you.
I am still trying to obtain some Indian Rosewood samples, but both Indian Rosewood and Ebony are darker type of woods, and even more so after they are finished.
However, Ebony is most likely the darker of the two, but sadly they will be costlier.
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Koa and Bubinga would make a nice case/rest, and Purpleheart appears to have a nice level of hardness. But sadly, I am having a hard time trying to find information what they are locally called. And from the information I read, it is more than likely that none of the wood are from trees native to my country ^^;
However, it'll just be a matter of price, but it is very likely that I can get a good supply of the neutral colored Ebony.... legally too ;)
I do know that Koa is Hawaiian and it is really expensive to get. But worth it due to it's rarity and immense strength when used as a case to house keyboard bit's and pieces.
If you can easily get Ebony then sign me up for that but the pieces have to be of sufficient width and depth to mill out successfully without chipping or breakage. The cutting head you will be using must be FIRST class so that it won't damage the edge of the wood when cut or sawn through.
Nothing worse than getting a brilliant sample of wood and it's destroyed by a third rate cutting edge because no one wants to pay up for a BRAND new cutting head.
I've seen valuable pieces of wood totally destroyed because the cutter was really cheap and nasty when it came to working through the material. Usually a registered carpenter knows how to cut and finish wood due to years of experience and they don't go cheap when it comes to using quality cutting tools and keeping them extremely sharp always.
As you know wood is not a forgiving material because once you make that first cut that would determine whether it will be bought and used or thrown into a stove for kindling.
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I do know that Koa is Hawaiian and it is really expensive to get. But worth it due to it's rarity and immense strength when used as a case to house keyboard bit's and pieces.
If you can easily get Ebony then sign me up for that but the pieces have to be of sufficient width and depth to mill out successfully without chipping or breakage. The cutting head you will be using must be FIRST class so that it won't damage the edge of the wood when cut or sawn through.
Nothing worse than getting a brilliant sample of wood and it's destroyed by a third rate cutting edge because no one wants to pay up for a BRAND new cutting head.
I've seen valuable pieces of wood totally destroyed because the cutter was really cheap and nasty when it came to working through the material. Usually a registered carpenter knows how to cut and finish wood due to years of experience and they don't go cheap when it comes to using quality cutting tools and keeping them extremely sharp always.
As you know wood is not a forgiving material because once you make that first cut that would determine whether it will be bought and used or thrown into a stove for kindling.
If your interest for Koa wood is mainly because of its strength, Ebony should indulge you as wood-database claims that Ebony's Janka hardness level is almost trifold that of Koa :thumb:
Material dimension wise, here are some shots of the prototype parts from the teak case, placed on top of the Ebony boards just to put into perspective the size of materials to be used.
More
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_5301.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_5305.jpg)
The base material is thick enough so excess material is rather minimal. Larger excess was prepared for the top/bottom plate however, since they are of thinner material.
But sufficient thickness will be given to all parts, so much so that over 60% of the materials will go to "waste" (I rather not consider it a waste ;))
Pls don't mind about the cracks visible on the thinner material. This particular sample was most likely damaged during shipment as it may have been too thin to be shipped by air parcel. Future material will be delivered as planks at multiples of 2-4 its current thickness.
As for the cutting materials, here is a close up shot of the unfinished Ebony prototype that have not been given any sanding. Hopefully it'll be a good enough picture to scrutinize and gauge the integrity of the cutting tool. If this is acceptable, we will try to keep the cuts consistent to this.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_5311.jpg)
Appreciate your insights, Elrick.
Do let me know if there are other things you are concern with and should there be more details that I need to pay attention before getting these produced :thumb:
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Super lovely casing .. Will buy one however might need to save up for a few months beforehand. Agree that the darker wood is much more appealing
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I would love an ebony case.
I put unsure for the plate.
edit: omg please have it wkl with 1.5 mods and little 1u wood nubs covering.
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Way outside my price range, but they do look nice. Myself, I have a phantom that I'm using caseless -- just laying the bare PCB on my lap for gaming. I plan on building a 7-bit layout phantom next, and having a case of some form would be very nice.
Again I'm poor, I'm sorta planning on cutting a section of plywood, gluing some molding that will let the PCB in but stop at the plate ... and figure some way to secure the plate to the plywood. Probably very long woodscrews. Yes you can stop wincing now I'm done.
Good luck with your wood endeavors!
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Nice case. IF you open a GB, please let me know.
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I quite like the design. I quite like the teak look (without the staining). Is it possible that such a case can be offered without staining but with a lovely coat of lacquer. Could it possible even be slightly.... cheaper? ;)
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Man I wish I was rich already
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Oh man, that's gorgeous. I told myself I wasn't going to let myself make this an expensive hobby, but I think this is too amazing to pass up.
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My deepest apologies for my absence and for the lack of updates. Was faced with an unfortunate incident so the project was put on hold =(
I, however, have been trying to get this back on track since the past few weeks and have currently obtained a good supply of rosewood, although most of them are not as dry nor as dark-colored as I want them to be.
I have also procured some ebony wood, but I was told that shipping will be delayed from the supplier for an indefinite time.
In the meantime, I will be air drying the rosewood planks and will start working on them once they are sufficiently dry.
Will post updates here once I get something done.
Here is a photo of some of the rosewoods that I will be working with. A good percentage of them have colors similar to the planks to the right
More
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32172733/keyboards/wood_TKL/IMG_5588.jpg)
Super lovely casing .. Will buy one however might need to save up for a few months beforehand. Agree that the darker wood is much more appealing
Thank you for the kind words and for the interest. Sadly the rosewood supply that I currently have are on the lighter side.
Hopefully, I will have received the ebony woods by the time you have saved enough =)
I would love an ebony case.
I put unsure for the plate.
edit: omg please have it wkl with 1.5 mods and little 1u wood nubs covering.
Thank you for your interest.
In regards to the plate layout, I will need to discuss it further when the time comes but from the current responses, most appears to be interested in an ANSI125 layout.
As for the WKL mods, I have put some thoughts of making removable wood blocks that can be secured to the plate for WKL options, but that would be a borrowed concept from the KMAC ^^;
However, I can easily provide different top plate options for those who wants them WKL or HHKB-style layouts =)
Way outside my price range, but they do look nice. Myself, I have a phantom that I'm using caseless -- just laying the bare PCB on my lap for gaming. I plan on building a 7-bit layout phantom next, and having a case of some form would be very nice.
Again I'm poor, I'm sorta planning on cutting a section of plywood, gluing some molding that will let the PCB in but stop at the plate ... and figure some way to secure the plate to the plywood. Probably very long woodscrews. Yes you can stop wincing now I'm done.
Good luck with your wood endeavors!
With softer woods, you'll have to be sure you won't be reopening the case all too often. My teak prototype case lose its bite pretty quickly.
But I reckon it should be fine if you leave it be once it's assembled.
I wish you good luck with your wood project as well, and thank you for the support :thumb:
I quite like the design. I quite like the teak look (without the staining). Is it possible that such a case can be offered without staining but with a lovely coat of lacquer. Could it possible even be slightly.... cheaper? ;)
A case from teak could be slightly cheaper than rosewood. Unfortunately however, it is not quite possible with the current case design as teak is not sufficiently hard, I’m afraid ^^;
Nice case. IF you open a GB, please let me know.
Thank you. Will drop a PM once I get this going =)
Oh man, that's gorgeous. I told myself I wasn't going to let myself make this an expensive hobby, but I think this is too amazing to pass up.
They say your wallet will never be safe when you hang around here =) But a keyboard guru once point out to me that this hobby is comparatively less expensive than others ;)
And thank you for your interest.
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Thanks for the update!
Looking forward to the finished product :thumb:
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Great to hear you again.
Waiting for next news
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Sorry to hear about your setbacks, but glad to hear you're still trying to move this forward!
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Really interested in this TKL case. I'll match all my room.
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Really beautiful, only concern would be the wooden feet, would the size be standard to say that of a filco for easy replacement/swap.
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Any news on this? I am really interested in this one, please let me know whats the current status.
Is there any possibility that we can get the CAD files, if you should abandon the project?
I'm thinking about manufacturing myself.