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geekhack Community => Other Geeky Stuff => Topic started by: Naweo on Thu, 19 June 2014, 09:13:32
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Hello friends!
I managed to copy my OC genie 2 settings and overclocked the following:
CPU ghz from 4.2 to 4.5
CPU voltage from 1.142 to around 1.192 (I chose 1.215)
Cpu i/0 from 1.050000 to 1.070000
DDR3 ram to 1600 MHZ
DDr3 ram memory extreme NEABLED
ram voltage 1.666 voltage
This seems to be stable and my core temperature is 60 degrees at idle, which is still high..
I wanted to attempt a further increase to 4.7 ghz on my cpu, changing the following:
CPU ghz from 4.5 ro 4.7
CPU voltage from 1.125 to 1.240
Cpu i/0 voltage from 1.07000 to 1.09000
This seems to cause my computer to freeze or get blue screens, but I managed to go back to 4.5 ghz.
Please confirm my actions as valid through this screenshot:
http://gyazo.com/0202d343dd39cbd87b4b6f26352102ef
four questions:
1. Is there any way I can get 4.7 ghz to work doing the approach I made?
2. Do you think 60 celcius in core temperature is fine to go from 4.5 to 4.7 with? (without stress test)
3. Should I make a stress test with 4.5 ghz BEFORE making further adjustsments, and at what temperature should I think that my core is at risk?
4. My CPU-Z shows me that my memory is at 800 MHz. on DRAM frequency. Is that correct when I copied the settings from standard automatic overlock OC GENIE 1600 mhz DDR3 ram frequncy with around 1.650 volt? Now I use 1.666 volt at 1600 MHZ ddr3 ram
Ram screenshot: http://gyazo.com/9858087e9c9f9199c7dd33a524b88c82
Though I only have 212 hyperevo and I can idle in bios /windows with 60 degrees celcius on my CPU, I believe I can run stable even at 24/hour stress tests which I will attempt now, though I am not sure how or what is best.
These are my temperature stats, note that the temperatures seems stable mostly between 68 and 72 degrees celcius, only topping above 75 for brief moments.
Using realtemp and prime95 stresstest, My cores went up to about 90-95 degress celcius for several minutes before getting BSOD.
I read that itīs also possible to control a fan speed using speedfan. I use hyperevo 212, but apparently speedfan recognizes 3 fans at 0 rpm. How do I fix this problem?
This is my first overclock attempt, please bare with me since I am a noob but I think I understand the procedure now.
If I wish to inch it up to 4.6 or 4.7, do you think itīs safe to process with 95 celcius max stresstest? Do I need more voltages?
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CPU ghz from 4.2 to 4.5
I can't help you but I've got two question: I see the 3770k as 3.5 Ghz / 3.9 Ghz when Turbo-boost is on (for example if heavy computation is happening on a single core, I think turbo-boost kicks in). Did you already OC your 3770k from 3.5 to 4.2?
If so, when you overclock from 3.5 to 4.2 Ghz, do you have any idea what happens to the max Turbo-boost speed? Does it goes above 4.2 Ghz?
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I have turbo boost disabled. Is that a mistake?
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I have turbo boost disabled. Is that a mistake?
Oh I have no idea. I'm genuinely curious about the matter: I didn't even know you could turn turbo-boost on and off : )
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Using realtemp and prime95 stresstest, My cores went up to about 90-95 degress celcius for several minutes before getting BSOD.
Just no.
Never get ANYWHERE near those temperatures. I myself like to keep the CPU cores under 65 at full load.
I value a slight overclock that is power efficient.
If you can keep an OC at around 4.5GHz @ the 1.24ish range, I say keep it. You may have hit a roadblock in terms of temperature : voltage; it'll take too much juice (thus higher temperatures) if you try to maintain that 4.7GHz overclock.
Not to mention, you're running on air, and presumably a mid-tower case.
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60C from the core at idle seems a bit high, but my most recent hands-on experience is coming from a i7-950 (no chance to OC my 4670k yet =( ). I'm not sure if that's worth it tbh, that's a sizable jump in voltage (and heat) for a small gain. It seems like heat may be your biggest opponent here; the current HSF you're using is good, but you're pushing beyond it's capabilities at those temps. If this is supposed to be a 24/7 stable OC I'd honestly go back to previous settings.
I'm not sure about intel's 3k line, but I never brought my 900 series above 90C under full synthetic load (even that made me cringe, but it throttles at 100C, iirc) and it sat at ~40C idle (Cogage TRUE Spirit + San Ace 9S1212). If you want to push any further than you are currently, I would suggest upgrading your cooling first; there is little chance you'll fry your cpu, but you could prematurely degrade it easily with those high temps.
edit; if you don't know if you need hyper-threadding disable it and it should cut ~12-20C off of your full-load temps. If this allows you to get a much higher stable OC within a good temp range it could be worth it unless you know you can use the extra threads [in which case, go back to your original settings, lol].
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Ivy @ 4.4+ will be difficult without Delliding..
I highly suggest you delid.. it's not hard.. fairly noob proof..
You don't want to use OC genie.. Go full manual...
TURN OFF ALL extra services from the MOBO they do not help, they do not save power, they generally cause instability..
Take screen shots of your particular bios.. And I can help you dial in the settings..
BUT.. it's all for naught if you don't delid... 4.6 is the highest usually you can go comfortably without delidding..
the reason for that is there is a 20Celcius difference between lidded and de-lidded.
You need that last 20 Celcius to get past the heat wall at 4.5..
also remember it's summer time..
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I have a i5-3570k OC'd to 4.4Ghz with a hyper 212 EVO
Idle Core Temps -- 30-32 degrees Celsius
Low Load/Normal Use Core Temps -- 36 - 40 degrees Celsius
Stress/Full Load -- 67 - 70 degrees Ceclsius
You may also find more stability by getting your RAM back to default timings
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You can safely go to 90c+ on sandy/ivy but heat AND high voltage are what kills cpus. You are hitting a "wall" trying to get to 4.7ghz where you are starting to need to throw a lot of voltage to get over it. My 3570k starts hitting walls around 4.8ghz. I have been running 4.5ghz @ 1.22v for over a year now with no problems. I just don't see a reason to want or need to go higher than that.
I 2nd delidding if you really want to do this.
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I have a i5-3570k OC'd to 4.4Ghz with a hyper 212 EVO
Idle Core Temps -- 30-32 degrees Celsius
Low Load/Normal Use Core Temps -- 36 - 40 degrees Celsius
Stress/Full Load -- 67 - 70 degrees Ceclsius
You may also find more stability by getting your RAM back to default timings
4.4 is a great spot to stay at if you're not going to Dellid.
the last 400mhz is Where the voltage spike begins to happen..
But.. I honestly don't think the durability element is necessary today.. because these things are quite inexpensive to rebuy.. and there's always the Intel overclocking insurance if one succumbs to minor-cowardice. haha, jk
The cpu will be obsolete, long before it burns out from overclocking... in fact your motherboard will probably be dead before the CPU dies..
The CPU is made by intel, using the most strenuous and most advanced science on earth.
The Motherboard is actually a glued together amalgam of off the shelf components by some digital jockey who would much prefer higher failure rates because his margin of profit is significantly smaller...
(http://emoticoner.com/files/emoticons/onion-head/ghost-onion-head-emoticon.gif?1292862505)
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Thanks for all the replies guys...
I did use my computer normally on both OC GENIE 4.2 ghz and 4.5 manual overclock, the temperatures were pretty much the same... at 4.2 I idle at 55-60 degrees and spike up to 90-92 degrees randomly, rarely though...
My only problem using 4.5 ghz is that I think I get some random program shutdowns, in Counter-Strike global offensive my program would stop working after 5 or 10 minutes.
Could this be caused by my manual OC?
I think I would be happy with 4.4 or 4.5 ghz without deliding, I played with 4.5 and I think itīs fine.
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Well if it is crashing it might be the voltage is a bit low, you don't need anywhere near 4.5 or even stock clock to run CS:GO lel
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Thanks for all the replies guys...
I did use my computer normally on both OC GENIE 4.2 ghz and 4.5 manual overclock, the temperatures were pretty much the same... at 4.2 I idle at 55-60 degrees and spike up to 90-92 degrees randomly, rarely though...
My only problem using 4.5 ghz is that I think I get some random program shutdowns, in Counter-Strike global offensive my program would stop working after 5 or 10 minutes.
Could this be caused by my manual OC?
I think I would be happy with 4.4 or 4.5 ghz without deliding, I played with 4.5 and I think itīs fine.
No the reason you may be more stable @ 4.5 with genie currently, it's because the Genie usually gives much higher voltage..
it's usually a higher LLC setting, which means, it'll look low on idle, but when you put it on load it'll be a different story..
but.. dellid is a good thing to do regardless of whether you want to push to 4.8..
because it'll be significantly cooler, and thus more stable..
if you want a good OC.. you can't be lazy about it... you gotta tweak at least 15 different settings back and forth for several days..
THe Genie is bad.. just don't use it...
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HPE1000
I actually play Starcraft II professionally and CSGO casually, but its in CSGO i had immediate and persistent program shutdown/crashes
In SC2, however, for which I want at least 5-10 more average fps, I run around 80-90 stable at lategames and maybe 70-80 in fights, with low-medium settings, but when I steam I start to lag even more so I really want a bit more FPS and CPU power.
%tp4tissue
I think I can do delidding but I dont really want THAT good overclock, just a bit better. You think 4.5 ghz manual overclock maybe more stable?
My OC genie thing says my voltage is 1.144, that shouldnt be too high.
Maybe I can try 4.5 ghz with 1.250 volt instead of 1.215? Should I try experimenting when temperatures from OC genie and my manual are about same?
Also I dont really care about my CPU lifetime as long as it survive for 1 or 2 years from now...
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What graphics card are you using?
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NVid 560 TI, should be good enough for sc2 i have heard.
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NVid 560 TI, should be good enough for sc2 i have heard.
um... if you're playing for Realzies, you'd want to set everything to minimum.. and limit it to 60fps or 120fps. this is how the Pros play, the only setting some pros put on high is effects which creates the trails under vehicles.
if you're playing for fun.. 560ti is good for max setting as long as MSAA multisample-antialiasing is not enabled in the nvidia menu.
The fxaa in-game setting works as AA but it is more akin to a blur filter which blurs the entire screen. it makes textures less sharp.. but it has very little impact on performance and isn't processing intensive..
MSAA doesn't hurt textures and greatly improve edges vs FXAA, but on the 560ti you'd be near the edge of it's capacity depending on your resolution.
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From the sound of it you run your PC with OC Genie in the background normally? That's something you should move away from like tp4 mentioned; it can be somewhat useful for finding a quick and dirty semi-stable OC, but it's not something that should be used the way it sounds like you're using it. Software OCing from the OS can cause major stability issues when you are also trying to use your PC productively, anything that can effect your OS has the potential to effect your OC settings.
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If your idle temp is 60c something is wrong. Unless maybe it's in a box with no fans.
Cooler may not be seated correctly. Or possibly a poor TIM application. Didn't notice if you had the evo or not but standard 212 has grooves that need to be filled with TIM for proper cooling.
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I am using the OC GENIE 2 which basically seems to just change the settings in my bios like if I changed them normally.
The z77a bios mode.
I am not using software/controlcenter or whatever.
What I dont understand is why OC genie is worse overclock since the bios shows the same parameters are being changed as were it a manual overclock.
Regardless, what are your recommendations?
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I would first start off by setting the cpu back to stock. And see what your idle temps are from there. Need to get that temp situation sorted. 60c seems way too high.
1. Whats your ambient temp?
2. What case are you using?
3. How much thermal paste did you use?
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1. At stock I hit the 40-45 temps
2. I use NZXT middle tower, not sure which model but middle tower it is.
3. I think I used not "perfect" amount but around the 1.5 cm radius, 3-4 mm high pase and then even it out as much as possible.
I also think maybe air ventilation is a problem? If so, maybe I could let 1 side of my PC stay open? I have tapen 1 side of my fans (not working, its juat a case fan) to avoid dust going out there
I have never tried to do a re-thermal pasting on a cooler before, so I am not sure how safe it is for me to do?
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OC Genie is really only good to see a 'base' overclock applied to the system. Manually setting the OC is definitley the better way to go.
As each chip is not uniform, some will be able to achieve stable overclocks at higher speeds. This is all determined by tweaking the OC, stressing, and finding your most stable combination.
My system could boot at 4.7 (sometimes), 4.6 and 4.5 Ghz. The top two were unstable when running apps, 4.5 was about 95% stable but had some random crashes and found 4.4 Ghz to be my sweet spot.
Unless you are really crunching stuff on that machine, the small bump up to 4.6-4.7 is not worth it.
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1. At stock I hit the 40-45 temps
2. I use NZXT middle tower, not sure which model but middle tower it is.
3. I think I used not "perfect" amount but around the 1.5 cm radius, 3-4 mm high pase and then even it out as much as possible.
I also think maybe air ventilation is a problem? If so, maybe I could let 1 side of my PC stay open? I have tapen 1 side of my fans (not working, its juat a case fan) to avoid dust going out there
I have never tried to do a re-thermal pasting on a cooler before, so I am not sure how safe it is for me to do?
Reapplying paste may be a good idea for you since your temps are so high. Your stock idle temps are the same as one of my old Core 2 processors, I'd imagine you should be getting lower idle temps--what's your ambient room temperature where the box lives?
Reapplying thermal paste is a SAFE operation. Make sure to remove all of the old paste application before reapplying. I find a coffee filter and rubbing alcohol works best for this.
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No, idling at a high temp is normal for an ivy bridge cpu..
generally high temp is normal for both ivy and haswell..
Dellid is your only really shot at cooler temps..
take bios screen shots of your manual settings..
post them here, if you find that too much of a hassle, then well, we can't help you.. LOL(http://emoticoner.com/files/emoticons/onion-head/uhuhuh-onion-head-emoticon.gif?1292862523)
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Grain of rice sized portion is what I always use for TIM.
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So this is the OC Genie BIOS option? Sorry, you made it sound like it may have been the older software. You still have work to do; the newer MSI BIOS option should give a stable OC, but no where near an efficient one in most cases (from the sound of it, it may pushing more voltage than necessary unless you have a chip that wants to be de-lidded and put under water or just a dog of a chip).
I'm assuming you've read overclock guides and if not shame on you, lol. Follow the guides at first to find out what your chip is capable of with what you have available, take note of where your voltage walls are and how much is needed for each step after, as well as what temperatures you're hitting. After you've done that [if you still want to use it] run OC Genie and manually tweak the settings from there to get a quicker system overclock, this doesn't let you bypass stability testing! Keep in mind, for every day performance you probably won't notice most changes outside of a CPU overclock and [from the sound of it] you still don't really need hyper-threading if this is a gaming machine so turning it off will give you more overhead for a higher OC (even games that are able to utilize more then 4 threads, the main thread's performance determines the total performance capabilities).
I don't remember you mentioning what video card or resolution you're playing at either; while both games do rely more on the CPU than GPU for performance, the GPU can still be a bottleneck.
edit: I see the post about the 560Ti now, you may want to consider a video card upgrade if you're looking for more eye candy and performance.
um... if you're playing for Realzies, you'd want to set everything to minimum.. and limit it to 60fps or 120fps. this is how the Pros play, the only setting some pros put on high is effects which creates the trails under vehicles.
if you're playing for fun.. 560ti is good for max setting as long as MSAA multisample-antialiasing is not enabled in the nvidia menu.
The fxaa in-game setting works as AA but it is more akin to a blur filter which blurs the entire screen. it makes textures less sharp.. but it has very little impact on performance and isn't processing intensive..
MSAA doesn't hurt textures and greatly improve edges vs FXAA, but on the 560ti you'd be near the edge of it's capacity depending on your resolution.
This is good advice. I'll piggy back with saying that a CPU OC is likely to have little effect here.
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So this is the OC Genie BIOS option? Sorry, you made it sound like it may have been the older software. You still have work to do; the newer MSI BIOS option should give a stable OC, but no where near an efficient one in most cases (from the sound of it, it may pushing more voltage than necessary unless you have a chip that wants to be de-lidded and put under water or just a dog of a chip).
I'm assuming you've read overclock guides and if not shame on you, lol. Follow the guides at first to find out what your chip is capable of with what you have available, take note of where your voltage walls are and how much is needed for each step after, as well as what temperatures you're hitting. After you've done that [if you still want to use it] run OC Genie and manually tweak the settings from there to get a quicker system overclock, this doesn't let you bypass stability testing! Keep in mind, for every day performance you probably won't notice most changes outside of a CPU overclock and [from the sound of it] you still don't really need hyper-threading if this is a gaming machine so turning it off will give you more overhead for a higher OC (even games that are able to utilize more then 4 threads, the main thread's performance determines the total performance capabilities).
I don't remember you mentioning what video card or resolution you're playing at either; while both games do rely more on the CPU than GPU for performance, the GPU can still be a bottleneck.
edit: I see the post about the 560Ti now, you may want to consider a video card upgrade if you're looking for more eye candy and performance.
um... if you're playing for Realzies, you'd want to set everything to minimum.. and limit it to 60fps or 120fps. this is how the Pros play, the only setting some pros put on high is effects which creates the trails under vehicles.
if you're playing for fun.. 560ti is good for max setting as long as MSAA multisample-antialiasing is not enabled in the nvidia menu.
The fxaa in-game setting works as AA but it is more akin to a blur filter which blurs the entire screen. it makes textures less sharp.. but it has very little impact on performance and isn't processing intensive..
MSAA doesn't hurt textures and greatly improve edges vs FXAA, but on the 560ti you'd be near the edge of it's capacity depending on your resolution.
This is good advice. I'll piggy back with saying that a CPU OC is likely to have little effect here.
I'd say CPU oc makes the Biggest difference for Starcraft II...
for any other game, it's useless.. but starcraft is almost 1:1 scaling with CPU speed increase as long as your gpu can keep up high frames.
but you have to consider that the actual Game Simulation which runs behind the scenes is NOT 60 instances per second.. so.. even if you see 60fps or even 120fps, that does not mean your commands are going in at those intervals..
However.. GENERALLY .. the higher the Cpu speed, the lower the latency between simulation and input...
So... overall.. high cpu speeds do make for a better gaming experience..
between Haswell and Sandy there is basically a 30% boost in starcraft 2 performance
between haswell and ivy it's 15%-20%
but that's not a test of the simulation-performance, just what's apparent in maximum frame-rates..
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I'd say CPU oc makes the Biggest difference for Starcraft II...
for any other game, it's useless.. but starcraft is almost 1:1 scaling with CPU speed increase as long as your gpu can keep up high frames.
but you have to consider that the actual Game Simulation which runs behind the scenes is NOT 60 instances per second.. so.. even if you see 60fps or even 120fps, that does not mean your commands are going in at those intervals..
However.. GENERALLY .. the higher the Cpu speed, the lower the latency between simulation and input...
So... overall.. high cpu speeds do make for a better gaming experience..
between Haswell and Sandy there is basically a 30% boost in starcraft 2 performance
between haswell and ivy it's 15%-20%
but that's not a test of the simulation-performance, just what's apparent in maximum frame-rates..
Generally I would agree if you're going to be running at base graphical settings like you suggested, but when cranking them up the video card (his 560Ti) is going to start to show it's limitations and a CPU OC isn't going to improve that.
edit: clarifying for his video card.
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My ambient room temperature is about 22-23 degrees celcius, but its slightly cooler now because the sun is off, 20 degrees, and I am now idling at around 48-52 degrees.
I think my best option is to try
1. Reapplying Thermal Paste
2. More ventilation to my midtower case
BEFORE overclocking
You agree?
And yes I have read overclocking guides and I know how much voltage I must use, you say that OC genie "overvolts" which doesnt make sense to me since cpu-z shows 1.144 CPu voltage only alongside 1.05 I/o voltage (though last one less important.)
I managed to stress test for several hours with 4.5 ghz but my only problem is temperatures + random crashes when playing CS:GO (I dont really care about cs:go, like I said I play low-graphic settings starcraft 2)
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How do you like the hyper evo 212? I was thinking about picking one of these up. Would you say it does the job and easy to install? Keep in mind I have an AM3+ and not Ivy. Thanks.
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To me, if ANYTHING crashes at your OC clock, I would deem the setup to be unstable but to each their own.
Also make sure the AIR FLOW of the fans in your box are set up correctly--don't wan't to have them fighting each other. Make them work TOGETHER :D
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Hey guys!
I just touched one of my back fans that usually made noise when I started computer (it was a bit too close to the cabinet) and I removed the tape from the other side of my cabinet
as far as I can see I just reduced max temperature by 5-10 degrees, now itīs idling between 38 and 44 degrees.
Should I be amazingly happy and attempt my OC at 4.4, 4.5, 4.6 and 4.7 as overclock guide allows?
Personally I would like to try my (relatively stable 4.5 ghz oc except in CS:GO) just with 1.250 volt instead of 1.215
Now that the boot has been up for 10-15 minutes, the idle degrees is more close to 45 degrees now instead of 55-60. After 30-40 minutes with multiple applications open in idle state (same applications I usually idle with), temperatures range from 52 to 57.
I think itīs an overall temperatuire decrease from between 7 and 10 degreess.
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Go for it!
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Hey guys!
I just touched one of my back fans that usually made noise when I started computer (it was a bit too close to the cabinet) and I removed the tape from the other side of my cabinet
as far as I can see I just reduced max temperature by 5-10 degrees, now itīs idling between 38 and 44 degrees.
Should I be amazingly happy and attempt my OC at 4.4, 4.5, 4.6 and 4.7 as overclock guide allows?
Personally I would like to try my (relatively stable 4.5 ghz oc except in CS:GO) just with 1.250 volt instead of 1.215
Now that the boot has been up for 10-15 minutes, the idle degrees is more close to 45 degrees now instead of 55-60. After 30-40 minutes with multiple applications open in idle state (same applications I usually idle with), temperatures range from 52 to 57.
I think itīs an overall temperatuire decrease from between 7 and 10 degreess.
Those temperatures do look better. I'm not sure about attempting to find your max OC@1.25v on your current cooling setup (stress testing at that level it going to really crank up the heat), but that's just me since I'm rather cheap about replacing hardware :p
I'd look for those voltage walls and find a compromise between speed/heat that I was comfortable with.
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What heatsink would you recommend if I should be more temperature safe, if possible? Since you think my cooling sounds below average
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What heatsink would you recommend if I should be more temperature safe, if possible? Since you think my cooling sounds below average
It's not below average (it should be just above "average" with a good seating), but you're pushing into water territory at that voltage and it doesn't sound like you've determined whether or not you need that kind of voltage to boost your clock. Have you followed an OC guide to a T and found your hardware's limitations?
The last few guides I went over had you find your max stable CPU OC as a final step, may be that's changed with IB's architecture (my experience is a few generations old and I apologize if the method has changed so completely), but getting ahead of yourself is only to cause the process to take longer than it needs to. Overvolting doesn't always lead to stability, you need to find out where the system is failing in order to pinpoint what action(s) will increase stability.
Better cooling will give you more overhead in most cases, but you're looking at a possibly large money sink that may not give you the gains you want. It's somewhat of a gamble and should only really be considered if you have the disposable income or intend to go at it seriously (last time I priced a cheap and decent custom loop for just the CPU it ran ~$120 USD for a 120mm radiator setup). There are HSFs and closed-loop coolers that will show greater performance as well, but I don't find them personally worth it when you could spend a little more and build a custom loop that can potentially wipe the floor with them.
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I made a PM reply.
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What are your stated temperatures relative to? Is it an average of all your cores or highest individual core temp?
Also what are you using to determine the CPU temp?
Are you sure you know what you are doing??
Be careful! ☺
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Thanks for the many replies guys.
I asked a few questions in PM and would like to continue here:
"With Ivy Bridge, you want to slowly increase the VCore as temperatures will hurt your max OC much more than voltage can stabilize it. I would go one multiplier at a time sticking to my voltage ranges in the graph below. If you end up with too much heat then the logical thing would be to decrease the voltage, however at this point you can try to decrease the CPU PLL, and if that doesn’t help much you can always decrease the VTT and System Agent (IMC) to levels where they are lower but still remain stable. When I was messing around with LN2 I could validate 5 GHz with less volts than my CPU needed at stock frequency, that is how much heat has an impact on frequency. However I do not want to show that shot as people might not always read stuff, but 5 GHz at 1.2v isn’t impossible at -190C."
In my pre-boot bios menu i am unfamiliar with CPU PPL, VTT and System Agent levels. As far as I can see I can change the base clock multiplier for cpu (which currently is x42) and the vcore (which currently is 1.144), as well as something called Cpu Volt I/O that doesnīt seem to be mentioned. The rest of the changed paramters is assosiated with memory as far as I know, and perhaps GPU.
Where do I access these parameters on a z77a-g45 MSI board?
I believe "MSI TURBO BOOST" is what replaces the LLC parameter: "You will also want to set LLC which is under the 3D power menu, the LLC should be set to Turbo for a slight droop, or Extreme for no droop at all. The LLC on these boards is rock solid, what you set is what you get, and nothing other than that. If you want you can also mess with the other PWM settings, but that shouldn’t be needed as Ivy Bridge doesn’t pull enough power to warrant those changes under air cooling. I recommend a slight drop of voltage under load, this might help with temperatures." And I have those enabled both standard and extreme/enchanced.
Before you ask, I will use 1600 mhz DDR3 on my ram and copy the OC GENIE overclocking numbers unless I feel a need to increase the memory performance for SC2, which I currently donīt think I need
Before I start the manual overclock, some of you noted the OC GENIE OC is bad and may not be as good as manual overclock - let me tell you that I currently run max 90 degrees under full load with stress tests on that. I believe itīs possible to get better resulsts with manural overclock. All CPU remain within 80 to 88 during the stress test.
Thank you!
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All chips are different. Each one has a unique maximum potential for overclocking. Some can achieve 4.7 Ghz with ease, others struggle even using the same exact overclock settings/board/ram etc.
Putting it simply, your end game goal should be to get the highest stable clock possible while using MINIMAL voltage increases
I would also suggest NOT overclocking your ram. Minimal gains while only adding complication to the overclock.
Start by changing as little as possible. Getting a stable OC first, then tweaking the small things for a possible faster clock if desired.
Another option is to keep buying processors until you get a near perfect/perfect unicorn. :D :D
..and if you are really serious get a case with proper airflow
.... and ditch those genie settings
:thumb:
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Thanks a lot osi.
Does declocking my ram back to standard apply benefits to my CPU?
Right now I went from 4.2 GHZ to 4.3 ghz with 1.65 bios volt cpu setting (which shows 1.128 or 1.120 volt in cpu-z instead of 1.144 like my 4.2 ghz oc genie settings shows) am seems to run relatievely sabkle but 2 of my cores reach 95 degress while the 2 others reach 90 degress. I understand this is a problem?
However, my 4.2 oc genie which I have been running for a year will also make at least 2 of my cores go above 90 while the rest stays.
Writing as I speak durings tress testing: 2 of my cores just reach 97 degrees, however, No programs or anything has been shut down like with my previous testings.
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Thanks a lot osi.
Does declocking my ram back to standard apply benefits to my CPU?
Right now I went from 4.2 GHZ to 4.3 ghz with 1.65 bios volt cpu setting (which shows 1.128 or 1.120 volt in cpu-z instead of 1.144 like my 4.2 ghz oc genie settings shows) am seems to run relatievely sabkle but 2 of my cores reach 95 degress while the 2 others reach 90 degress. I understand this is a problem?
However, my 4.2 oc genie which I have been running for a year will also make at least 2 of my cores go above 90 while the rest stays.
Writing as I speak durings tress testing: 2 of my cores just reach 97 degrees, however, No programs or anything has been shut down like with my previous testings.
EDIT:
I just saw my tempsts went up to 102 and 103 on my cores after just 40 mintues and i made an emergency prime95 shutdown. This would likely also have happened with oc genie settings that ive been running for more than a year... The good thing is that not even a 100000 unit map on sc2 can cause as much pressure on my CPU so I think i am good as far as normal use goes.
I will try my 1.65 (1.144) 4.3 ghz for normal use for a bit and see if random programs shuts down. If not this may be as stable as the 4.2 ghz OC genie setup, but i am not sure.
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That is HOT!!
Personally, 40 degress celsius is the warmest I like to see my temps under a decent load (1-2 processors working hard).
Under normal use for me, a working core will stay within the 30s. I always have at least 1 Virtual Machine up 100% of the time during normal use. This is all air cooled, with hyper 212 on the proc
--edit ram question -
Setting your RAM timing to default is just to ensure that the bus is within a known good range. Allows you to focus on the more important overclock -- the processor!
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How can yours get so low with same cooler as me? :/
Itīs so weird. What thermal paste did you use?
I would like to see screenshots of your case, CPu and MB, with 67 degrees max load sounds like easy 4.7 overclock to me, would be perfect if I could make it work with what I have.
Its so strange that my idle temps are almost 60 degrees, maybe I need new thermal paste or adjust cooler?
Maybe my fans are too slow?
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Sheesh -- that is a lot of homework...
Paste - Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver
Mobo - ASRock Z77 Extreme4
Case - Cooler Master HAF-912
Fans - 4 80mm ; 2 were provided with the case, one bundled with 212, another I had lying around that I slapped in the front
The most important factor in ALL of this I hit the jackpot with my processor -- it did not require much of a voltage increase to achieve my desired overclock. One step up (or maybe 2;been a while) from the stock voltage and it was golden. Pushing close to stock voltage allows smaller hit on the temperature front.
By the way, that is my work machine -- hopefully I won't be seeing it for a while
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So what is your voltage?
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See previous post last sentence... :]
Get your research on and read lots. There are over clocking specific forums with far more knowledge.
.
Next week I'll update with voltage bump info.. I'm guessing .+075 from stock
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Okay thanks, Last question:
Do you think a noctua nh-d14 + Arctic 5 is a good combo to attempt reducing my temperatures?
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Okay thanks, Last question:
Do you think a noctua nh-d14 + Arctic 5 is a good combo to attempt reducing my temperatures?
I can't say -- I've never used a noctua. Squeezing that extra few hundred MHz won't help your CS game but mostly dependent on the person behind the mouse and keyboard :D -- from a long time CS player
:thumb:
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I dont care about CS:GO - CSGO was just the game I crashed.
LIke i said earlier, I am a professional starcraft 2 player and THAT IS WHERE CPU MATTERS!
(Minor jesus Christ)
Anyway I hope you agree a heatsink with 2 radiators and 2 fans instead of 1 radiator with 1 fan is better :P
Same foot level now yes?
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I dont care about CS:GO - CSGO was just the game I crashed.
LIke i said earlier, I am a professional starcraft 2 player and THAT IS WHERE CPU MATTERS!
(Minor jesus Christ)
Ahh sorry, missed the starcraft bit up there.
Anyway I hope you agree a heatsink with 2 radiators and 2 fans instead of 1 radiator with 1 fan is better :P
Same foot level now yes?
Can't blindly agree here. That answer you can only know for sure if you test both setups and check the results.
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I like using Arctic Cooling MX-2 TIM personally; good thermal conductivity, easy application, and virtually no cure time, it is quite easy to clean up and isn't electrically conductive either. Makes it idiot proof for when I have to go through the house for a yearly/bi-yearly reseating, haha.
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Okay thanks, Last question:
Do you think a noctua nh-d14 + Arctic 5 is a good combo to attempt reducing my temperatures?
No, it's a complete waste of money..
The reason Ivy and Haswell is hot, is because the dies are much smaller this time around..
so no matter how BIG your cooler, it doesn't cool well due to the lower surface that it can be in contact with the Chip..
Ontop of this size issue, there's also the fact that they use a tim under the heat spreader instead of soldering the chip to the heat spreader like the original Sandybridge..
The ONLY WAY to get cool running ivy / haswell is dellidding.. there's no way around this... (http://emoticoner.com/files/emoticons/onion-head/cheer1-onion-head-emoticon.gif?1292862494)
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Which way should the fan on the heatsink face to make optimal airflow?
I believe my cabinet gets cool air from front and out the back like std.
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Which way should the fan on the heatsink face to make optimal airflow?
I believe my cabinet gets cool air from front and out the back like std.
in case of ivy / haswell
if you're using direct contact heat pipes.. the evo
it's best to either have it face up or down.. that way the core is oriented to touch all four pipes rather than only the middle 2.
Again.. without dellid.. this may not do much..
it also depends on whether or not your chip ihs is concaved or convexed
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I spend about 4 hours working on my computer since the hyperevo + motherboard screws are about as badly designed as possible. I had to disconnect everything in order to do this, and now I am very afraid I might have done something wrong.
After reapplying thermal paste and reseated cooler gpu and everything: note that some of the thermal paste has hid the cpu-lock metal etc, but it has not hit the motherboard, but this is simply because it is _IMPOSSIBLE_ to place the cooler without it throttles and rubbles around due to the most retarded screwing system known to man kind.
My computer basiaclly shuts on and off every 3 seconds now and I have tried troubleshooting looking for loose cables and electrical shorts. I am afraid I have killed my motherboard or I have placed some of the cords at the wrong area. I am partiqulairily afraid the "power sw + led" has been put into the wrong plug, I believe I put it into the Front Panel Connector.
The GPU + PCI-E cords should be in place as well.
Any help? :(
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I spend about 4 hours working on my computer since the hyperevo + motherboard screws are about as badly designed as possible. I had to disconnect everything in order to do this, and now I am very afraid I might have done something wrong.
After reapplying thermal paste and reseated cooler gpu and everything: note that some of the thermal paste has hid the cpu-lock metal etc, but it has not hit the motherboard, but this is simply because it is _IMPOSSIBLE_ to place the cooler without it throttles and rubbles around due to the most retarded screwing system known to man kind.
My computer basiaclly shuts on and off every 3 seconds now and I have tried troubleshooting looking for loose cables and electrical shorts. I am afraid I have killed my motherboard or I have placed some of the cords at the wrong area. I am partiqulairily afraid the "power sw + led" has been put into the wrong plug, I believe I put it into the Front Panel Connector.
The GPU + PCI-E cords should be in place as well.
Any help? :(
What? what happened.. where is the thermal paste running to?
and you're saying now you're getting poor contact with the evo?
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Hello tp4tissure and thanks for answer.
I am not sure what happened but I am quite sure that the thermal paste amount is good, its just spread badly.
My computer keeps retsartings every 3 seconds and I dont know why.
What would be the typical reason after reapplying thermal paste?
What do you mean "what is thermal paste running to?"
It is on the CPU lid, but also a bit on the cpu lock etc. I am confident its not donig anything wrong.
After this experience I am quite sure I am not going to delid my CPU myself. I am slightly stressed out with this situation.
I think I will open up new forunms threads in attempt to get more valuable insight just like your own insights today.
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I am back up and running, I put white instead of black cord with sata disk.
Back to OC:
Right now I am on 4.3 ghz idling at 40 temperatures, seems I managed to get a few 3-4 dgress down after reinstalling fans and applying new thermal paste.
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I am back up and running, I put white instead of black cord with sata disk.
Back to OC:
Right now I am on 4.3 ghz idling at 40 temperatures, seems I managed to get a few 3-4 dgress down after reinstalling fans and applying new thermal paste.
naweo.. the best cpu non-dellided will hit temp wall around 4.6, because once you're past that, you need at least another 10-15 Celsius head room at the far end..
No extra fan, airflow will help.
You can get water, but to be honest... that's another $100.. and $100 to get another 200mhz is a bit insane when the Cpu itself only worth $200-$250
water will also only give you 6-10 celsius not 10-15..
whereas delid will give you 15-25(http://emoticoner.com/files/emoticons/onion-head/good-job-onion-head-emoticon.gif?1292862505)
if you're just in F34r watch some more youtube videos.. it's really really easy/ straightforward..
if you don't like the freezer method.. you can also just cut it with the exacto..
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If I can manage 4.5 or 4.6 ghz to my needs satisfactionally, i will avoid delidding.
If I REALLY need more than that, I will return...
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Glad to here that you have recovered your rig
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if you're just in F34r watch some more youtube videos.. it's really really easy/ straightforward..
if you don't like the freezer method.. you can also just cut it with the exacto..
I'm quite fond of the vise+hammer method :p
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if you're just in F34r watch some more youtube videos.. it's really really easy/ straightforward..
if you don't like the freezer method.. you can also just cut it with the exacto..
I'm quite fond of the vise+hammer method :p
I know righ? it's like this
Turn freezer to Deep Freeze (highest setting)
scotch tape over cpu contacts
Put Cpu in freezer
Take Cpu out
Put into vice.
Hammer time.
Boom.. -20Celsius + 200mhz
// Happiness(http://emoticoner.com/files/emoticons/onion-head/happy-onion-head-emoticon.gif?1292862507)
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I have a couple of old chips around... I want to try the vice method...
All youtube guides says that you dont need to freeze, just tighten it up and bang the adhersive with wood+hammer.
True?
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I have a couple of old chips around... I want to try the vice method...
All youtube guides says that you dont need to freeze, just tighten it up and bang the adhersive with wood+hammer.
True?
Um.... Yes... but freezing is better because it makes the adhesive brittle..
If it's a HOT day.. then the adhesive gains a more goopy consistency.. so that may not be good, because it could Catch the hammer down and change the strike angle slightly, which could cause you to dig against the core or flex the chip
You can not do this with all chips.. some have soldered IHS.. but you can for sure do it to haswell and ivy because we know those do not have soldered IHS..
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So 3770k is good 2 go for delidding without freeze?
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So 3770k is good 2 go for delidding without freeze?
i wouldn't do it without freezing. especially in the summer.
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Ye I agree.
By the way, if I have a better fan than the standard hyperevo and the case fans, which place would be the best place to use it? On case or on cpu?
Also, if the hyperevo fan seems relatively "hard" to spin with fingers, does it mean that itīs worse? since it obviously requires more energy to spin i guess the RPM is less.
Any chance you guys know where to buy fan clips/brackets?
Thanks for everything guys.