Jump it. You can see an example of how to do this in my Kingsaver review. Intelli78 has a picture as an example. Just keep in mind the picture is alps. You'll have to figure out where the traces lead to.
Jump it. You can see an example of how to do this in my Kingsaver review. Intelli78 has a picture as an example. Just keep in mind the picture is alps. You'll have to figure out where the traces lead to.
would it work if i just soldered a switch on it?
i browsed your review but there wasn't anything on this (( on mobile )). :(
could you link me to intelli's photo?
Jump it. You can see an example of how to do this in my Kingsaver review. Intelli78 has a picture as an example. Just keep in mind the picture is alps. You'll have to figure out where the traces lead to.
would it work if i just soldered a switch on it?
i browsed your review but there wasn't anything on this (( on mobile )). :(
could you link me to intelli's photo?
would it work if i just soldered a switch on it?
snip
So you pulled a pad off. It happens. FYI, you probably left the soldering iron in one place for too long. And no, you cannot just solder a switch there -- there is nothing to solder the switch TO without the pad. :( But if you could actually do that, it would be fine for as long as the solder joint lasted.
Here is what they are saying about a jumper.
The "ring" that is missing has a trace going somewhere, I can't see it in your photo because it starts on the other side of the PCB, and then jumps between the top and bottom layer through the little dots (called "vias"). But the thing to do is to figure out where the trace from that hole eventually leads, and then to solder a small wire from the connector ("pin") on the switch TO the next component or pad where that trace leads.
The little wire will then "jump" from the switch to the place the trace led. Thus, a "jumper wire".
Wire from an Ethernet cable is a good size for this purpose.
Your next step is to very carefully figure out where that trace leads. Look in both directions, because everywhere along a trace is electrically identical. If you are lucky, that switch pin connects to an identical pin above or below. If so, you can easily solder a jumper between the two pins. It may also lead to a tiny diode, in which case you will have to solder the jumper to the correct end of the diode -- without lifting the diode either.
Good luck!
- Ron | samwisekoi
snip
where do i get these jumper wires? i don't get the picture either
So you want to solder a wire like this, when you install the switch back into place...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/GzIOHzQ.jpg)
will try jorgens's method. sounds legit. i will get some jumper wires ready in the mean time. razer y u sux at qc
will try jorgens's method. sounds legit. i will get some jumper wires ready in the mean time. razer y u sux at qc
No, don't. Even if this works (and it might) you wouldn't ever be able to de-solder it. You'd have to get the tip of an iron between the switch and the PCB, and that would be a PITA and possibly damage things more.
No, this is the easiest jumper you can ever do. First solder the good pin on PgDn and both pins on End. Then, get a 1" piece of wire, strip both ends a bit, and solder it straight between the two pins shown:
(Attachment Link)
Jumper between PgDn and End switches.
Those two switches are on the end of the PCB, have free space below, and are just 0.750" apart. It doesn't get any simpler than that.
Again, a piece of wire from an old Ethernet cable, or really any kind of wire that isn't from a phone cord will do. As long as you don't let bare wire touch the other terminal on the End switch, you are going to be golden.
Don't cheat. It will actually be harder, and won't be a good thing to do to your keyboard. Just do the jumper wire.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Is the razer pcb double sided Sifo?Can't confirm, I wouldn't expect it to be, it's razer
looks like it connects to "end" key.
looks like it connects to "end" key.
I think it is, please someone confirm this, but i believe the boards has a common ground or a common input or output.
If it's that way you can simply identify where it goes and join it to that common knot.
Jump it. You can see an example of how to do this in my Kingsaver review. Intelli78 has a picture as an example. Just keep in mind the picture is alps. You'll have to figure out where the traces lead to.
would it work if i just soldered a switch on it?
i browsed your review but there wasn't anything on this (( on mobile )). :(
could you link me to intelli's photo?
No because the solder will only flow onto metal, so it won't flow onto the PCB anymore.
You will want to add a little wire to the next hole that trace goes to (called jumping). Follow the trace to find the next hole it goes to.
will post pictures of the full pcb and plate later in the morning. it's 1.13am here. yellow brick(?)
will post pictures of the full pcb and plate later in the morning. it's 1.13am here. yellow brick(?)Show Image(http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/o/n/onionfacepalmplz.gif?1)
copper get it? yellow red-ish
I just tried to force the switch back into the padless joint on the QFR I was working on and not only did it not work, I couldn't get all the solder out and it became a huge mess. I'd really advise you not to do that and try jumping it first.
If you want to try scraping it to reveal the copper that might work, I've never tried it myself. But I've had bad experiences with just soldering it back in.
Has someone tried those conductive silver pens?
In the future use flux on the parts that will be soldered desoldered. When the flux starts smoking be ready to pull the iron away in a couple of seconds.
I just tried to force the switch back into the padless joint on the QFR I was working on and not only did it not work, I couldn't get all the solder out and it became a huge mess. I'd really advise you not to do that and try jumping it first.
If you want to try scraping it to reveal the copper that might work, I've never tried it myself. But I've had bad experiences with just soldering it back in.
note that the QFR has a one sided PCB, so my idea is not relevant there.
I recently lifted a pad on an ergodox, but was able to solder it just fine because of the plated through hole.