you can direct wire those reeds to a teensy controller.Any guide on how to do that? I've seen a few, but I'm totally clueless on this sort of thing, and these switches instead of having two contacts only have one
You can also drive the 7+1 segment displays with it. They act like normal LEDs but have a common cathode (or sometimes anode).
hmm that is weird.Much appreciated :thumb:
Here's what I'm almost positive they are doing:
one pin on the end is shared with all the others, and the second end of the reed is the single soldered one you see under each switch.
So you get sort-of and odd matrix, and possibly only 1kro down each of those switch blocks. I can come up with a diagram on how to wire it up when I get home tomorrow.
hmm that is weird.
Here's what I'm almost positive they are doing:
one pin on the end is shared with all the others, and the second end of the reed is the single soldered one you see under each switch.
So you get sort-of and odd matrix, and possibly only 1kro down each of those switch blocks. I can come up with a diagram on how to wire it up when I get home tomorrow.
Yeah, I really like the switches on these. Linear, but almost like tactile in the way that at the end the switches help you depress. And I'd really love to do something cool with the displays. Also was thinking about using the metal backplate already on there as a bottom platehmm that is weird.
Here's what I'm almost positive they are doing:
one pin on the end is shared with all the others, and the second end of the reed is the single soldered one you see under each switch.
So you get sort-of and odd matrix, and possibly only 1kro down each of those switch blocks. I can come up with a diagram on how to wire it up when I get home tomorrow.
Y, that's kind of my take on it. The switches are actually physical columns, so I would guess one contact at the bottom would be "common" to all in the column and the other one of the pair and the single ones of the other switches in the column make contact with the common line when the switches are pressed. You can check this pretty easily with a multimeter / continuity meter.
Actually 1KRO per column kind of makes sense if you use it in the correct orientation. You're not likely to press more than one key with the same finger on purpose and most people wouldn't use 2 fingers for a column.
If the switches feel nice, then by all means wire them up to a Teensy and make a nice little custom numpad. It would be quite unique :) You can probably desolder the columns and glue them to each other so you don't need to make a plate or anything. Just some kind of housing to protect the contacts and the wiring and mount the Teensy. That's what I'd do. You could also use a few of the 7 segment displays mounted in the case and program the Teensy to display cool stuff when you press each key, something like the Predator's arm display. Or the boring version is to display the actual character pressed.
Another option is to code the algorithms for actual calculation into the Teensy, so as long as it has power it will function as a (rather limited) calculator. Lots of cool options.
Maybe useful for something else but not like custom keyboard...Don't need a pcb :D Just hand wire that up and you can get it working fine. Also that sorta keycap is still in production afaik. Got a few in my crap bag
non of pcb nor keycap will support.
Yeah, I found a few of those to. Unfortunately sold it though (to you lol)Maybe useful for something else but not like custom keyboard...Don't need a pcb :D Just hand wire that up and you can get it working fine. Also that sorta keycap is still in production afaik. Got a few in my crap bag
non of pcb nor keycap will support.
If you really do want to pursue a nkro matrix with those switches I would suggest just breaking the tracks between switches on the PCB and handwiring them. I don't know what the board was originally or if you still want any of it's functions but using a teensy you could wire something fun up with the matrix and the 7seg displays I'm sure.Yeah, dork said he would come up with a diagram on handwiring it, I also have to wait till I have some more $ to buy a better soldering iron
If you really do want to pursue a nkro matrix with those switches I would suggest just breaking the tracks between switches on the PCB and handwiring them. I don't know what the board was originally or if you still want any of it's functions but using a teensy you could wire something fun up with the matrix and the 7seg displays I'm sure.Yeah, dork said he would come up with a diagram on handwiring it, I also have to wait till I have some more $ to buy a better soldering iron
Anything is better than what I have :pIf you really do want to pursue a nkro matrix with those switches I would suggest just breaking the tracks between switches on the PCB and handwiring them. I don't know what the board was originally or if you still want any of it's functions but using a teensy you could wire something fun up with the matrix and the 7seg displays I'm sure.Yeah, dork said he would come up with a diagram on handwiring it, I also have to wait till I have some more $ to buy a better soldering iron
oh right, I forgot about that. We're going to salem tomorrow, so I'll see if I can come up with something with a pen on paper if that's ok.
my pen drawing looks tully horrific, so this text explanation will have to do for now.All of this new to me, not exactly the easiest first project :p
So think of it this way:
in a switch matrix, you have rows wired up with diodes and colums wired straight with wire, right?
In this matrix, the columns are wired straight with wire for you. I think you can just wire the rows up with diodes to 4 pins on a teensy, then wire up 4 columns to another 4 pins on said teensy and call it good. Will do some thinking on it.
You can check this yourself by looking at this page on KB matrix circuits and check if it fits (he has his wired with diodes down the columns, but you can always "rotate")
http://www.dribin.org/dave/keyboard/one_html/
Ofcourse anyone experienced with this please chime in.
Welp, I figured nobody else was going it so here is what I'm almost positive will work. The problem is I have no idea whats going on inside these switches but I'm assuming the four nodes on the bottom are just linked to the other side of all switches in that row.Alright, thanks. I'll get started trying to work on this as soon as I can pick up a better soldering ironShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/vRJqadr.jpg)
Welp, I figured nobody else was going it so here is what I'm almost positive will work. The problem is I have no idea whats going on inside these switches but I'm assuming the four nodes on the bottom are just linked to the other side of all switches in that row.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vRJqadr.jpg)
I'd be really keen to give it a go but I have absolutely no time at the moment with tests and exams at Uni. I'll check back in here when everything calms down and if you still haven't found anything we can try and make a plan.Pretty solid medium-stiff linear. Long presses. I was really only looking to turn this into a kinda cool but functional numpad
I'm not quite sure what could be done with them, other than coding them to display numbers on the 7seg. They could always be made into a pretty cool looking numpad if someone comes up with a nice case idea. How do the switches feel?