What causes the click?
I want an example of the tactile space invaders, I managed to miss the one that went today.
I'll be interested to see what you make of them. From what I recall reading, they're good, but 002 has one and finds it prone to binding.
the contact leaves are folded back inwards and the separator bar on the slider catches on these folds on the way down.
I will be opening it up do do some more work sometime soon.
This may help a bit.
There's an unused switch location where the \| key is on yours.
You'll have to mod the plate to add a hole for the \| key (the enter key switch location appears to be in the same spot regardless) but check out this picture:There's an unused switch location where the \| key is on yours.
What! Wow! Really?
Now I have to look at my other board - if I could mod a bigass Enter / small Backspace to get an ANSI board, I would be delighted!
I'm typing on one at the moment. I've really got to get me another one, though. The 'a' key is slowing going out and trying to fix these things is a nightmare all on its own. It's got the split space bar key too which I love.
For those of you who had an opportunity to compare this switch to other clicky switchs (Model F capacitive buckling spring, Cherry MX Blues/Greens, and White Alps), what are your thoughts on the space invaders? I've listened to a couple online videos posted, and the Space Invaders sound clickier.Clicky space invaders are fairly similar in feeling to clicky SMK switches (e.g. “monterey” blue Alps-mount ones), but with less travel and a bit less click of a slightly different sound (since their click is caused by plastic hitting plastic rather than metal hitting plastic). They’re less clicky than e.g. amber Omrons. They’re clickier than Cherry MX blue or green switches and I like them substantially better. They’re quite different from (and not really easily comparable to) buckling springs.
Interesting that the list price of the keyboard was $37.00 back in the 1990's. It was budget priced compared to a lot of other designs (e.g. Northgate OmniKey T $129.00)
(Attachment Link)
squaring up when trying to remove a cap. the top of the switch always stays in place
I saw the weakness of NMB space invader when I used it a few year back. That's why I wrote my bad experience based on my broken NMB keyboard (still keep the keycap set though, love it :p)
We all know about its strong, the superior PBT dyesub keycap set on amazing tactile clicky feeling key switch. However, dust and moisture may easily leak into the two exposed bass leaves. As a result, the key switch is lacking of protection against undesirable action from users. Incorrect keycap removal method or incorrect cleaning key switch method may destroy the clicky action completely or change the clicky sound or key switch feeling to something extremely ridiculous. The key switch is very vulnerable with RP7, WD40 or any kind of wet lube because the key switches are opened to the air. The more it gets wet, the more dust will stick on it. So after I destroyed my lovely NMB keyboard, three important things that I have learn:
+ avoid removing the keycap as long as possible.
+ keep the key switch as dry and clean as possible. Don't try to lube it with any kind of web lube. Just only use vacuum cleaner (lower power) to suck the dust out.
+ don't try to touch, pull, bend or fix the two bass leaves
Don't get me wrong on this. I really love the keyboard. Actually, I will buy a new NMB again if I have a change. I just want to write about it weakness so it may help someone not to face the same case like me.
I saw the weakness of NMB space invader when I used it a few year back. That's why I wrote my bad experience based on my broken NMB keyboard (still keep the keycap set though, love it :p)
We all know about its strong, the superior PBT dyesub keycap set on amazing tactile clicky feeling key switch. However, dust and moisture may easily leak into the two exposed bass leaves. As a result, the key switch is lacking of protection against undesirable action from users. Incorrect keycap removal method or incorrect cleaning key switch method may destroy the clicky action completely or change the clicky sound or key switch feeling to something extremely ridiculous. The key switch is very vulnerable with RP7, WD40 or any kind of wet lube because the key switches are opened to the air. The more it gets wet, the more dust will stick on it. So after I destroyed my lovely NMB keyboard, three important things that I have learnt:
+ avoid removing the keycap as long as possible.
+ keep the key switch as dry and clean as possible. Don't try to lube it with any kind of wet lube. Just only use vacuum cleaner (lower power) to suck the dust out.
+ don't try to touch, pull, bend or fix the two bass leaves
Don't get me wrong on this. I really love the keyboard. Actually, I will buy a new NMB again if I have a chance. I just want to write about it weakness so it may help someone not to face the same case like me.
edit: spelling correction
Wow! You have the mysterious Gundam switches!
MouseFan posted a photo of a single switch, and its origin has remained a mystery ever since.
What year is shown on the PCB? It should be four 7-segment digits at the bottom of the underside of the PCB, representing YYWW (you can see this on the wiki page for the Philips P2812).
I believe that this is the very first design of this switch; that's a very early keyboard (no integrated LED switches) and the Gundam design matches the 1984 patent (something I never spotted before). Your PC should read a year close to 84.
I just have this one: https://www.flickr.com/photos/dork_vader/sets/72157642928081893/
dorkvader............don't you have one with the beige switches?
I just have this one: https://www.flickr.com/photos/dork_vader/sets/72157642928081893/
dorkvader............don't you have one with the beige switches?
Switches are like this:Show Image(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7269/13415580333_dc5b1b55d7_o.jpg)
I just have this one: https://www.flickr.com/photos/dork_vader/sets/72157642928081893/
dorkvader............don't you have one with the beige switches?
Switches are like this:Show Image(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7269/13415580333_dc5b1b55d7_o.jpg)
dude............that thing is clean!
I also really want to try a tactile one for a length of time to see how it's like.I got a tactile one from ebay (122-key layout) in rough condition. The keys use very stiff springs and I don’t find the switches especially pleasant. I can sell it to you if you want! :p
so the single eye are linear and the double eye are clicky?
i can't remember.............
so the single eye are linear and the double eye are clicky?
i can't remember.............
Mine has both and they are all linear. You can see in the picture.
Well the capslock is latching so I guess it's not linear but still.
The tactile one I have (model number PC122-XT) is all tactile grays, except the spacebar which is a pea-green very heavy linear switch. All two eyes but much skinnier eyes on the green switch.
What I can't figure out is why anyone wants such heavy switches. These things are definitely heavier than MX clear switches, and heavier than brown Alps. Are there lighter-weight tactile space invaders?
Anyhow, I don’t like the tactile version as much as the linear or clicky versions, even ignoring the heavy springs. It seems to be tactile via a similar mechanism to MX: via extra plastic-on-plastic friction, which IMO just isn’t very pleasant.
Nice keycaps though.
WAITUm..?
there's a clicky one? Now I want to try that instead!
The tactile one I have (model number PC122-XT) is all tactile grays, except the spacebar which is a pea-green very heavy linear switch. All two eyes but much skinnier eyes on the green switch.
What I can't figure out is why anyone wants such heavy switches. These things are definitely heavier than MX clear switches, and heavier than brown Alps. Are there lighter-weight tactile space invaders?
Anyhow, I don’t like the tactile version as much as the linear or clicky versions, even ignoring the heavy springs. It seems to be tactile via a similar mechanism to MX: via extra plastic-on-plastic friction, which IMO just isn’t very pleasant.
Nice keycaps though.
the one in the picture i just uploaded are smooth like reds, but much heavierI’m not sure if all the gray switches are the same spring weight. Anyway, the clicky black ones I’ve tried are much much lighter than the tactile gray ones I’m looking at right now, comparable to blue SMK “monterey” or blue MX switches, I’d say.
i guess the grey tactiles are a little heavier than i thought, but i still like them
so what then the blacks are the lightest?
the one in the picture i just uploaded are smooth like reds, but much heavierI’m not sure if all the gray switches are the same spring weight. Anyway, the clicky black ones I’ve tried are much much lighter than the tactile gray ones I’m looking at right now, comparable to blue SMK “monterey” or blue MX switches, I’d say.
i guess the grey tactiles are a little heavier than i thought, but i still like them
so what then the blacks are the lightest?
(Edit: it might be extra metal-on-plastic friction, apparently; either way, it’s not the same kind of tactile as e.g. an Alps or SMK switch, and I’m not a fan.)
so the single eye are linear and the double eye are clicky?
everyone (e.g. fohat) likes.
WAITUm..?
there's a clicky one? Now I want to try that instead!
The clicky black ones are the ones that everyone (e.g. fohat) likes.
OMG!
everyone (e.g. fohat) likes.
I have always considered myself to be the "odd duck"
OMG!
everyone (e.g. fohat) likes.
I have always considered myself to be the "odd duck"
well..........if you think you are the only odd duck
quack quack
i'm guessing this is probably rubber dome since it ends with a t, but the RT101+ always drives me nuts?Judging from the look of the keycaps, I’m pretty sure it’s a rubber dome.
The case is a bit flimsy (as you can see, it’s just two pieces of plastic).
Alps and SMK switches don’t seem to have this problem at all.My experience with SMK ("monterey") blue switches as well as ALPS in general has been decidedly different than yours.
My experience with SMK ("monterey") blue switches as well as ALPS in general has been decidedly different than yours.You get pre-click actuation with Alps or SMK switches?
I really have no clue who makes this board?
I thought white with 2 eyes were clicky, but this one is linear
board is pretty much like new- just a little dust, weird layout but it is AT
I really have no clue who makes this board?
I thought white with 2 eyes were clicky, but this one is linear
board is pretty much like new- just a little dust, weird layout but it is AT
i've tried loading the picture but the site will not let me...........errpr
whats up with thaT
The colour—eye count combinations are not unique. White with two eyes can be linear or clicky :-P
Just a crazy thought - not really an IC or something to be built...
What do you guys think about a custom space invaders tenkeyless/40%/60%? And because the huge enter small backspace is a problem for many - just using alternative switches for those keys - either MX Clears/Whites/Greens or White/Matias Clicky Alps.
Yes ... it's silly.
Just a crazy thought - not really an IC or something to be built...
What do you guys think about a custom space invaders tenkeyless/40%/60%? And because the huge enter small backspace is a problem for many - just using alternative switches for those keys - either MX Clears/Whites/Greens or White/Matias Clicky Alps.
Yes ... it's silly.
silly here is cool........... :cool:
elaborate, tease us some more :eek:
be interesting to see what pcb and plate you are going to use?
I'm not planning anything like that - it's a 'pipe dream' just to see how many people would accept alternative switches on those specific keys.
I'm not planning anything like that - it's a 'pipe dream' just to see how many people would accept alternative switches on those specific keys.
Why alternative switches? Just because you'd have to use another brand of keycap?
I'm not planning anything like that - it's a 'pipe dream' just to see how many people would accept alternative switches on those specific keys.
Why alternative switches? Just because you'd have to use another brand of keycap?
Read what I wrote above. Not everyone is into the large Enter, small Backspace. As far as I know there are no alternative Space Invader mount keycaps for those switches.
I suspect the hard part will be finding an ANSI space invader keyboard — I am not sure I've ever seen one.Did you miss this, upthread? http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=60707.msg1513316#msg1513316
I don't remember everything. If you guys would bother putting all this on the wiki we'd have somewhere reliable to look it all up instead of having to revert to Google in the hope we might be able to find something.
Pro-tip: If you get a board with the caps with the little legs on the side, use a ring type puller and don't pull straight up, but slightly to the side. You won't ever have an issue with the switch top coming off with the cap.The way I pull these is with a butter knife or similar sturdy flat piece of metal. You want to pry upward from under one side (side, not front/back) of the keycap while pushing sideways from the other side of the switch. In other words, push the keycap in the direction of the side that you’re prying up from the bottom. One of the little clips that hold the keycap down will snap free (the one on the side you’re prying), and then you can pretty easily push the keycap back the other way to disengage the other clip.
which are the gundam style switches again?
anybody gotta a link?
For space invader switches, I’d skip the puller, and just use a single butter knife (or some similar flat piece of metal that won’t accidentally scratch the keycaps). The trick is pushing sideways and downward on one side of the keycap while prying upward on the opposite side. You can’t really effectively do that with any kind of standard keycap puller.
If you try pulling the caps upward with a standard keycap puller you’ll either break the plastic clips on the keycaps, or yank the slider out of the switch.
For me, the hard part to re-learn was to avoid corners. On other styles, I always use wire pullers and try to get the wire well under opposite diagonal corners.I'm not sure exactly what corners you're referring to but I've found that if you use wire pullers to pull off the far corners of the key CAPS (so not the sliders) it's pretty easy to dislodge the caps without pulling the slider.
Absolutely the wrong thing to do with Hi-Teks - avoid the corners or you will be grabbing the wrong pieces. Only pressure the flats.