geekhack
geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => Topic started by: WhiteRice on Tue, 29 July 2014, 13:12:27
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Looking for review and suggestions. I've assembled a ErgoDox with SMD diodes before, but I have zero CAD experience. Thank in advance!
Open Questions:
Design:
(http://i.imgur.com/pswJTk8.png)
http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/layouts/81d001663a377fbcbd7a2a30d0d7409a
Layout:
(http://i.imgur.com/ZnWYbrl.png)
http://ne0.cc/laygenV2#H6gC3
Parts:
Key switches:
68 x Cherry MX Brown Key Switches ✓
Other Hardware:
1 x Teensy 2 Controller ✓
68 x 1N4148 diodes ✓
Copper Wire ✓
Male Headers for Teensy
Key caps(WASD OEM Profile):
Row 4:
15 x 1 ✓
Row 3:
2 x 1.5 ✓
12 x 1 ✓
Row 2:
1 x 1.75 ✓
1 x 2.25 ✓
19 x 1 ✓
2 x 1 (Homing bump) ✓
Row 1:
2 x 2.25 ✓
2 x 2.75 ✓
10 x 1 ✓
8 x 1.5 ✓
Stabilizers:
3 x 2.25 ✓
2 x 2.75 ✓
10 x Stabilizer mounts ✓
Mounting Plate:
- Custom cut acrylic ✓
Case:
- Custom cut acrylic layers ✓
PCB:
- Reserved for 2.0
1.0 Plan
- Design Layout ✓
- Design Key cap color✓
- Design Plate and Case
- Source Hardware ✓
- Program Teensy ✓
- Assemble prototype ✓
- Combine case and prototype
- Wrap-up & Review
Resources:
http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/
http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/building-a-custom-keyboard-from-the-ground-up-t5761.html
http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/how-to-build-your-very-own-keyboard-firmware-t7177.html
http://ne0.cc/laygenV2/#XOocS
http://deskthority.net/wiki/Utilities
Acknowledgements:
matt30
ne0phtye
ijprest
jdcarpe
MOZ
dorkvader
Ooby
desktopauthority
geekhack
/r/MechanicalKeyboards[/list]
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Bump, open questions on main post updated.
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Do you plan to use a plate and direct wire? or are you making a PCB?
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Do you plan to use a plate and direct wire? or are you making a PCB?
I would prefer plate and wire for the first iteration. Would it be easier to modify the GH60 PCB for my purpose? I'm really out of my element and I'm trying to make progress in any direction.
I stared at the .dxf file in directsight for a bit last night. I'm pretty sure I just need to add holes and widen the boarder. Is that correct?
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I don't think modifying a GH60 will work. I wasn't much involved with the project (and still don't have one myself) but as I recall, most of the controller was under the spacebar. You'd likely end up needing to drill holes in the microcontroller to get a switch to fit there, but I could be wrong.
To make a plate, you'll need to add switch holes, stab holes (I recommend costar: very easy to make plate holes for that: they're just rectangles) and a border (for standoffs or to bend down like the upcoming massdrop stuff, ron's GH75, or the original dox prototype). If you don't have a PCB, then just square holes for the switches is fine 'cause stem swapping likely won't happen, and it's easy to pop them out of the plate if you really need.
The only issue I see is (step 7) that mounting the plate to a case may be hard. You might want to have the edge of the plate "extend" to the edge of the case, (so it sits on top rather than "in" the case) and then add screws and/or washers to hold it in place to the mounting holes in the case. What was your plan on this?
I must say, I really like the bottom row layout you have here.
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I don't think modifying a GH60 will work. I wasn't much involved with the project (and still don't have one myself) but as I recall, most of the controller was under the spacebar. You'd likely end up needing to drill holes in the microcontroller to get a switch to fit there, but I could be wrong.
To make a plate, you'll need to add switch holes, stab holes (I recommend costar: very easy to make plate holes for that: they're just rectangles) and a border (for standoffs or to bend down like the upcoming massdrop stuff, ron's GH75, or the original dox prototype). If you don't have a PCB, then just square holes for the switches is fine 'cause stem swapping likely won't happen, and it's easy to pop them out of the plate if you really need.
The only issue I see is (step 7) that mounting the plate to a case may be hard. You might want to have the edge of the plate "extend" to the edge of the case, (so it sits on top rather than "in" the case) and then add screws and/or washers to hold it in place to the mounting holes in the case. What was your plan on this?
I must say, I really like the bottom row layout you have here.
Thanks!
(http://i.imgur.com/2aMyvwY.png)
I'm going to measure my poker now. I'll see how far I get. I will try to keep all my files here for easy access!
Edit: Poker PCB measurements added:
(http://i.imgur.com/QDxq5hd.png)
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The Poker mounts the PCB to the case, so if you're going plate and hand wire without PCB, you'll have to add some standoffs to mount the plate at the right height to the case.
You can probably mount the Teensy 2.0 straight to the case with some epoxy.
It's a nice layout, although I'm not a fan of your arrow key placement.
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For review tonight
http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/plate-and-case-start-kit-t8214.html
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So that link provided me with a really great template to work from.
I was hoping someone could quickly review my plate.
(http://i.imgur.com/iOIgAJQ.png)
Edit: Will I need an extra layer for controller clearance due to my space layout?
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So I found a place by me that only does acrylic, $70 for plate and case. Does that sound reasonable?
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So I found a place by me that only does acrylic, $70 for plate and case. Does that sound reasonable?
It sounds reasonable to me: the plate in particular has a very complicated shape.
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Thanks! Plate in acrylic should be fine right? I never had any issues with my dox and that has an acrylic plate.
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So I've been fooling around enough to finish the drawings for my original idea.
(http://i.imgur.com/E2LGivu.png)
Thoughts and suggestions are always appreciated.
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I should be invoiced for case cutting and materials tomorrow, total is $119.49
Time to source the other materials.
Edit: corrected invoice amount
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(http://i.imgur.com/w73gdoL.png)
Is this wiring diagram correct? 20 + 1 Led means I'll need 21 pins. Teensy 2.0 should be adequate?
Edits: Changed my wiring a few times
Added Pins
(http://i.imgur.com/E9frQiw.png)
What kind of wire should I be using?
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I used solid core insulated silvered copper wire for mine and it worked out very well. It bends nicely and stays in place so you can route it where you like and it will stay there. I find magnet wire a bit fiddly and messy to work with, but it'll do the job, too. Any wire will work, really, since there's very little current going through the switches.
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I used solid core insulated silvered copper wire for mine and it worked out very well. It bends nicely and stays in place so you can route it where you like and it will stay there. I find magnet wire a bit fiddly and messy to work with, but it'll do the job, too. Any wire will work, really, since there's very little current going through the switches.
http://www.amazon.com/Jonard-R30BLK-0100-Insulated-Insulation-Diameter/dp/B006C4AGMU
Correct?
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http://www.amazon.com/Jonard-R30BLK-0100-Insulated-Insulation-Diameter/dp/B006C4AGMU
Correct?
Yeah, kynar wire. If you have spare network cable (rj45 or rj11), you can harvest from that.
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http://www.amazon.com/Jonard-R30BLK-0100-Insulated-Insulation-Diameter/dp/B006C4AGMU
Correct?
Yeah, kynar wire. If you have spare network cable (rj45 or rj11), you can harvest from that.
Thank you for the response! Welcome to Geekhack!
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(http://i.imgur.com/k3CIzrU.jpg)
Waiting for switches. I don't think my acrylic plate is going to work :(
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Thank you for the warm welcome, although I've been more of silent reader for almost a year here :))
What's the thickness of your acrylic plate, and I assume this wont use any pcb right? I use 5mm thickness on my first one, and it was solid enough, but the switches doesnt sit really well especially when pulling keycap due to thickness of plate mount. Opted for 1.5mm aluminium plate on second build, and works much better.
Edit: Problem with 5mm plate, is mounting the stabilizer, since none fit, had to do some hack job.
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Thank you for the warm welcome, although I've been more of silent reader for almost a year here :))
What's the thickness of your acrylic plate, and I assume this wont use any pcb right? I use 5mm thickness on my first one, and it was solid enough, but the switches doesnt sit really well especially when pulling keycap due to thickness of plate mount. Opted for 1.5mm aluminium plate on second build, and works much better.
Edit: Problem with 5mm plate, is mounting the stabilizer, since none fit, had to do some hack job.
1.5mm acrylic for the mounting plate. I'll just order an aluminum plate.
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I don't think my acrylic plate is going to work :(
Why do you say that? Are you concerned that 1.5mm is to thin and the plate will flex too much? Or that the switches won't lock in nicely? Or something else?
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I don't think my acrylic plate is going to work :(
Why do you say that? Are you concerned that 1.5mm is to thin and the plate will flex too much? Or that the switches won't lock in nicely? Or something else?
I'm concerned about the flex.
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Are m3 screws the correct ones to be using? Any have a good source?
Looking at these,
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91477/
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/2308/
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Thank you for the warm welcome, although I've been more of silent reader for almost a year here :))
What's the thickness of your acrylic plate, and I assume this wont use any pcb right? I use 5mm thickness on my first one, and it was solid enough, but the switches doesnt sit really well especially when pulling keycap due to thickness of plate mount. Opted for 1.5mm aluminium plate on second build, and works much better.
Edit: Problem with 5mm plate, is mounting the stabilizer, since none fit, had to do some hack job.
1.5mm acrylic for the mounting plate. I'll just order an aluminum plate.
See if you can get stainless steel for not too much more: I find them to be significantly better than aluminium plates.
About screws: KMAC uses M2.5 I believe. M3 are pretty big, not sure if they'll fit in the case you have, you might want to do M2 even. (lightsaver uses M2)
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Thank you for the warm welcome, although I've been more of silent reader for almost a year here :))
What's the thickness of your acrylic plate, and I assume this wont use any pcb right? I use 5mm thickness on my first one, and it was solid enough, but the switches doesnt sit really well especially when pulling keycap due to thickness of plate mount. Opted for 1.5mm aluminium plate on second build, and works much better.
Edit: Problem with 5mm plate, is mounting the stabilizer, since none fit, had to do some hack job.
1.5mm acrylic for the mounting plate. I'll just order an aluminum plate.
See if you can get stainless steel for not too much more: I find them to be significantly better than aluminium plates.
About screws: KMAC uses M2.5 I believe. M3 are pretty big, not sure if they'll fit in the case you have, you might want to do M2 even. (lightsaver uses M2)
Measuring the drawing gives a diameter of 2.7mm. m2.5 then?
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Thank you for the warm welcome, although I've been more of silent reader for almost a year here :))
What's the thickness of your acrylic plate, and I assume this wont use any pcb right? I use 5mm thickness on my first one, and it was solid enough, but the switches doesnt sit really well especially when pulling keycap due to thickness of plate mount. Opted for 1.5mm aluminium plate on second build, and works much better.
Edit: Problem with 5mm plate, is mounting the stabilizer, since none fit, had to do some hack job.
1.5mm acrylic for the mounting plate. I'll just order an aluminum plate.
See if you can get stainless steel for not too much more: I find them to be significantly better than aluminium plates.
About screws: KMAC uses M2.5 I believe. M3 are pretty big, not sure if they'll fit in the case you have, you might want to do M2 even. (lightsaver uses M2)
Measuring the drawing gives a diameter of 2.7mm. m2.5 then?
That 2.7mm hole is designed for m3 screw. A good nice tight fit for m3 :-*. And check the screw height with you case height, give it extra 3-4mm for the nut
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Can I call it a keyboard yet?
(http://i.imgur.com/mzGHWNY.jpg)
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I AM BENDER INSERT DIODE
(http://i.imgur.com/m1lJq50.jpg)
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Wow looks awesome!
One of these days I'm going to direct-wire a keyboard.
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Could I run the leads to the controller from the bottom of each coloumn?
Opposite of this,
(http://i.imgur.com/mF6CAbk.jpg)
* pictured is from matt3o's bianca keyboard.
I'm thinking yes, but I want to be sure.
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(http://i.imgur.com/Ln0fQm5.jpg)
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Time for more soldering
(http://i.imgur.com/B9uld7L.jpg)
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Soldered
(http://i.imgur.com/n1qJRqt.jpg)
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Tying up some loose ends,
(http://i.imgur.com/czsalxi.jpg)
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After a lengthy delivery it's official.
1:36 AM ET
Minute Mark 1 Came to Life,
(http://i.imgur.com/uxN9iAY.jpg)
P.S.
Make sure to set your LED pin to something other than your matrix pins.
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Assembling the case,
(http://i.imgur.com/a3Mjglb.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/vxUCPQv.jpg)
Just waiting for keycaps.
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Can I call it a keyboard yet?
(http://i.imgur.com/jJgSSdj.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/o1TiSGt.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/DSXh5J8.jpg)
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Excellent layout. The symmetry strokes my mind (http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2014/07/28/rustle-tingle-relax-the-compelling-world-of-a-s-m-r/?_php=true&_type=blogs&_r=0)...
May I know what material the case is made of?
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Excellent layout. The symmetry strokes my mind (http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2014/07/28/rustle-tingle-relax-the-compelling-world-of-a-s-m-r/?_php=true&_type=blogs&_r=0)...
May I know what material the case is made of?
Thanks! Acrylic.