Getting a PCB made for this would seem to be extremely simple. The main issue is figuring out if you want the buyers to solder the SMD components themselves or have that pre-done.
As someone with no soldering experience whatsoever, I don't feel like doing 200 SMDs.
The best execution of this would be to have them made on flexi so they fit INSIDE the switches, but that would require clear tops.This would be awesome too. ;D
The best execution of this would be to have them made on flexi so they fit INSIDE the switches, but that would require clear tops.
How so? It would be exactly like a sticker. The only thing I'm not 100% on is clearance for the smd led on both sides. There are ultra tiny smd led though so I'm sure something could be made to work.
make sure to go with a very thin PCB. The original in the pics is much thinner than most PCBs, and you'll very much run into clearance issues with keycaps if your PCB is too tall.
I'd be down for a KB's worth! I think this'll much more evenly light a keycap.
Bytheway, I think you usually pick the LED and ship a roll of them (usually 4000 or so) to the fab who will then combine them with the PCB you have. Some places will have common parts on hand, but IDK if they'll have SMD LEDs in that size.
as to fitting inside the switches: could be done, but I'm not sure why you'd want to. It'd make it awfully hard to close, especially with brittle cleartops (great idea with the white top though: also acts as a diffuser.) Not sure about clearance of LED and the switch leaves on the "back" of the MX switch though. You could maybe do one LED on the front and 2 on the sides.
You should look into thin PCBs and what fabs offer them. I looked into this a little when I was looking into getting a flex PCB done for an M with NKRO, but sadly I needed PCB files to get a quote from anyone.
Would keycaps be hitting these pcbs as you type?
I don't understand how this could be so hard to get aligned with the switch, but how much easier would it be if you put these into SIPs?
Assuming that you had very good tolerances with manufacturing so that every little thing was practically the same, wouldn't this be a walk in the park with SIPs?
PCB should be simple enough once the design is set. I do have my doubts on interference with thicker and lower profile keys.
If noone else is willing to, I can do the PCBs.
PCB should be simple enough once the design is set. I do have my doubts on interference with thicker and lower profile keys.
If noone else is willing to, I can do the PCBs.
make sure to go with a very thin PCB. The original in the pics is much thinner than most PCBs, and you'll very much run into clearance issues with keycaps if your PCB is too tall.Yep. It would work with OEM profile keycaps but with Cherry profile which has less clearance, it would shorten the key travel. And forget about using O-rings to dampen bottoming out.
if you need any help with assembly happy to build those little guys if that helps anyone.Same here.
Posting to find my way back. It looks interesting, the only thing which worries me a bit is the height, especially when the LEDs are placed in the middle where the reinforcements of most caps are placed.
PCB should be simple enough once the design is set. I do have my doubts on interference with thicker and lower profile keys.
If noone else is willing to, I can do the PCBs.
I have serious doubts as well. It's a cool idea and I'm sure there has to be a better way. My mind is just blank on it.
PCB should be simple enough once the design is set. I do have my doubts on interference with thicker and lower profile keys.
If noone else is willing to, I can do the PCBs.
I have serious doubts as well. It's a cool idea and I'm sure there has to be a better way. My mind is just blank on it.
Could you just not direct wire the LED, using stiff wire bent into a square shape?
EDIT : ipotato pic of a bent paperclip plus some photoshop example :Show Image(http://s3.postimg.org/4gx6z8vf7/dual_led.jpg)
PCB should be simple enough once the design is set. I do have my doubts on interference with thicker and lower profile keys.
If noone else is willing to, I can do the PCBs.
I have serious doubts as well. It's a cool idea and I'm sure there has to be a better way. My mind is just blank on it.
Could you just not direct wire the LED, using stiff wire bent into a square shape?
EDIT : ipotato pic of a bent paperclip plus some photoshop example :Show Image(http://s3.postimg.org/4gx6z8vf7/dual_led.jpg)
I would prefer to have the LEDs in parallel, but that might not even be possible with a pcbThat is indeed possible with a PCB.
I would prefer to have the LEDs in parallel, but that might not even be possible with a pcbThat is indeed possible with a PCB.
It is in fact not likely to have the LEDs in series, as (for blue, white, etc.) LEDs with a Vf over 2.5, they cannot be powered in series by a 5v supply.
Also the picture show two LEDs in parallel. I'm not really sure what you're getting at.
So they are...You mean series vs. parallel: you can do either one equally easily with a PCB, but only parallel makes sense in this case.
Well I guess we have to see which is more easy to make and manufacture.
Actually parallel loading LEDs is not always a very good idea. You really should have one resistor in series with each LED. Read up on thermal runaway if you want to know one reason why. Keyboard LEDs aren't usually driven very hard so this may not be a big issue here. Even if two LEDs probably won't break (as long as none of them does) there can be other side effects. A slight difference in forward voltage across the LEDs can lead to a big difference in brightness.