I'm gonna try to buy this.
I'm gonna try to buy this.
Try not. Do. Or do not. There is no try.
From what I was able to find on the IRMA irma stuff, it was made originally in 1983 / 1984, so it might be vintage clears (undyed switches) of any type.
From what I was able to find on the IRMA irma stuff, it was made originally in 1983 / 1984, so it might be vintage clears (undyed switches) of any type.
I'm also wondering if maybe these are older whites which would have the same color as the clear stem but be clicky, since the auction mentioned they were clicky.
same here for not grabbing it when I saw it (when it was psoted): I seriously thought about it.From what I was able to find on the IRMA irma stuff, it was made originally in 1983 / 1984, so it might be vintage clears (undyed switches) of any type.
I'm also wondering if maybe these are older whites which would have the same color as the clear stem but be clicky, since the auction mentioned they were clicky.
If they are, I will hate myself for posting it and not grabbing it. You'll have to send a switch my way.
No cam on the switch, so it's not going to be click type as even the clear/white original had the little cam 'nib' on the side of the stem just like blue/green/white do now. I would hope that linear isn't mistake for clicky... which leaves tactile usual clear. In any case, not a bad grab. Nice that it would seem from the advert it should also have AT code set, which wasn't always a given on 3270 boards. I know my 3270 board only speaks 3270.
PS: I bought it so :p Of course that shipping charge is bugging me since I'm only ~7 hours away but what are you gonna do.... :-\
I’m glad I got the seller to pull a cap a couple days ago, and someone here wanted it.
Let us know what you think when it gets to you. (Looks like it might be dye-sub keycaps?)
There's one old crappy falling apart laptop I keep asking on that they always refuse to pop a cap on.Which laptop? Someone might know what the switches are.
So about those light weight clicky clears and super blacks..... :eek:
And I'm not sure how the caps are printed.
Yes. And which sinks in water pbt or abs?
Nubs you are the man. This board is awesome.
Well then I'm pretty sure these are dyesub pbt caps.Oh, I could-a told you that from the auction pictures.
Now if I could get this shift key back on. :facepalm:Looks like you just push it straight down.
Well then I'm pretty sure these are dyesub pbt caps.Oh, I could-a told you that from the auction pictures.Now if I could get this shift key back on. :facepalm:Looks like you just push it straight down.
Well then I'm pretty sure these are dyesub pbt caps.
Also anybody familiar with these stabs?Show Image(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/29/4uvudehy.jpg)
I guess you could mod the plate to accept a costar stab and glue the plate clips in place? Lot of work though.
Or just be happy with the dyesub PBT keycaps that came with it: hard to beat those.
I guess you could mod the plate to accept a costar stab and glue the plate clips in place? Lot of work though.
Or just be happy with the dyesub PBT keycaps that came with it: hard to beat those.
Oh, don't get me wrong, I'm very happy with the keycaps themselves, it's just that this was the board I was going to put the Nuclear Green set on...
I still am not sure if anyone has seen this stabilizer style before. I managed to get the stab legs out of the one shift key I removed but they had clearly been epoxied/glued in. I just wiggled on them until they came out.
I still am not sure if anyone has seen this stabilizer style before. I managed to get the stab legs out of the one shift key I removed but they had clearly been epoxied/glued in. I just wiggled on them until they came out.
They're definitely epoxied/glued in. I didn't poke around the stabilizers (honestly, mine feel too solid... I'm afraid they'll snap), but I did some work on the wire and the clips holding it down. The wire can be removed by guiding it sideways through the clips, and the wireclips come on and off pretty easily once the wire is out.
I think the plate holes that the stabilizers glide through are too small for any of the currently on the market stabilizers...
Stupid question, but is there something that dissolve epoxy without dissolving PBT, assuming that is epoxy (it's like an orange color, but I know that can be anything)?
I have a hunch I can replace the wires with costar wires, and then just put in costar inserts and have this work...http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts.html
What's the best place to buy those?
I still am not sure if anyone has seen this stabilizer style before. I managed to get the stab legs out of the one shift key I removed but they had clearly been epoxied/glued in. I just wiggled on them until they came out.
They're definitely epoxied/glued in. I didn't poke around the stabilizers (honestly, mine feel too solid... I'm afraid they'll snap), but I did some work on the wire and the clips holding it down. The wire can be removed by guiding it sideways through the clips, and the wireclips come on and off pretty easily once the wire is out.
I think the plate holes that the stabilizers glide through are too small for any of the currently on the market stabilizers...
Stupid question, but is there something that dissolve epoxy without dissolving PBT, assuming that is epoxy (it's like an orange color, but I know that can be anything)?
I have a hunch I can replace the wires with costar wires, and then just put in costar inserts and have this work...
What's the best place to buy those?
I have a hunch I can replace the wires with costar wires, and then just put in costar inserts and have this work...http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts.html
What's the best place to buy those?
I think you will need to mod the plate to get the costar clip to fit, but I could be wrong.
I have a hunch I can replace the wires with costar wires, and then just put in costar inserts and have this work...http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts.html (http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts.html)
What's the best place to buy those?
I think you will need to mod the plate to get the costar clip to fit, but I could be wrong.
I'm not going to use the costar clip, just the wires and the inserts. Once I realized that the wire clips already installed could be reused easily, I don't see why I wouldn't. do that.
I might need to bend my own wires, I think the standard stabilizer wires are too thick, but the inserts should be fine.
But the inserts won't have anything to rest on, the current stab legs are much longer to go down into whatever the mechanism is this board has.
Having never used costar stabilizers, how much do the inserts actually need the clips to keep them inline?
@SpAmRaY
Just curious -- so the "whites" don't have the sprue mark on the stem? Once you get a sample switch desoldered, I'm curious if the clicky leg is black like modern MX Whites, or some other colour. Also, do all switches click the same? ;)
I haven't had time to open it up yet but haven't decided what I want to do with it either.
I haven't had time to open it up yet but haven't decided what I want to do with it either.
It's easily one of the oddest boards I've seen.
Did you ever figure out what scancode set the IRMAKey is using?
I had assumed it would use the AT set, with some extra scancodes for extra keys like an IBM 3270 model M, but today I finally got a chance to test it, and that doesn't seem to be the case. Or I have a broken keyboard.
Have you discovered anything?
I haven't had a chance to do anything with mine other than take it out of the box take a pic and put it up.
I haven't had a chance to do anything with mine other than take it out of the box take a pic and put it up.
Sounds like you're on my testing schedule.
If you get a chance to try plugging it in, I'd love to know the results. I think I'm probably going to end up selling my board, and I don't want to put it up as "possibly not working" when the answer is "not working".
Actually I currently don't even have any thing to attempt to plug it in with, I'll have to either make or buy an adapter.
I haven't had a chance to do anything with mine other than take it out of the box take a pic and put it up.
Sounds like you're on my testing schedule.
If you get a chance to try plugging it in, I'd love to know the results. I think I'm probably going to end up selling my board, and I don't want to put it up as "possibly not working" when the answer is "not working".
you guys are killing me.
Just mail one to me I'll mod it or whatever, take a ton of pictures, elucidate y'all on whatever and mail it back with whatever you wanted done on it done.
I get sad every time I see this thread bumped. I wish I snagged it.If it makes you feel any better I have so far failed using it with a soarer converter.