geekhack
geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => Topic started by: WorldFly on Mon, 01 September 2014, 16:26:43
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Hello all,
I'm currentely planning my custom keyboard because I still use an old rubber-dome keyboard.
Once I heard about mechanical keyboards I got my idea of an design for an custom keyboard.
So I started drawing my design.
This is how it looks right now:
[attach=1][attach=2]
[attach=3][attach=4]
It will be fully made out of 1.5 mm silver and black anodized aluminium which will be cnc-milled.
The cutouts for the MX-switches are still missing. I need to know first the dimensions for cutouts that can be milled.
As PCB i think I'm going to use Gons 108 NerD if no one has a better suggestion. Stabilizers will be costar.
What do you think how many space schould be between the PCB and the bottomplate to have enough space?
Regards Benjamin
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The cutouts for the MX-switches are still missing. I need to know first the dimensions for cutouts that can be milled.
As PCB i think I'm going to use Gons 108 NerD if no one has a better suggestion. Stabilizers will be costar.
What do you think how many space schould be between the PCB and the bottomplate to have enough space?
The spec cutouts for Cherry MX are 14mm x 14mm. There are several modified cutout designs that allow for the tops of the switches to be removed without desoldering. Those can be found doing a little searching for "plate cutout".
As far as spacing, the pins from the switch extend about 8 mm below the top of the plate. So with at 1.5 mm plate, they will extend 6.5mm below the lower surface of the plate. You will need at least this much space, but you also need to account for and IC and or other components or connectors that may be on the bottom of the PCB. You'll have to check the PCB you are buying. I think you will be safe with a 10mm or 1cm spacing.
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Some Datamancer inspiration?
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The spec cutouts for Cherry MX are 14mm x 14mm. There are several modified cutout designs that allow for the tops of the switches to be removed without desoldering. Those can be found doing a little searching for "plate cutout".
As far as spacing, the pins from the switch extend about 8 mm below the top of the plate. So with at 1.5 mm plate, they will extend 6.5mm below the lower surface of the plate. You will need at least this much space, but you also need to account for and IC and or other components or connectors that may be on the bottom of the PCB. You'll have to check the PCB you are buying. I think you will be safe with a 10mm or 1cm spacing.
Thank you that helped me a lot! I will wait until I order my switches to test the cutouts.
I also added 2 mm spacing because it would be definetely be to small for any connector below the PCB.
But as I'm planning to desolder the connector and replace it with another I still need to check that later once again.
Some Datamancer inspiration?
No I don't think so. This design just came up into my mind even I've seen Datamancer keyboards before.
It is also supposed to be more "modern".
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I very much like it! My old room-mate was an "industrial design" major at Virginia Tech. He would always come to me with designs and we'd discuss the feasability of manufacturing them.
As far as PCBs go, the GON NS 108 is one of the only "full size" custom PCBs and shoudl be an excellent choice. It offers LED backlighting underneath the PCB so if you want, you can have light coming out the side between the two plates.
How do you plan to have the USB connected? You can run the end of a USB pigtail to the proper pads on the PCB where the connector was, but you'll need to secure it with some strain relief. I think that cutting a hole in the top plate is out of the question, but you may be able to cut a hole in the bottom plate and have it route through there for some strain relief. I am interested to see how this progresses.
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Love the design! Maybe a 40% case too?
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I very much like it! My old room-mate was an "industrial design" major at Virginia Tech. He would always come to me with designs and we'd discuss the feasability of manufacturing them.
As far as PCBs go, the GON NS 108 is one of the only "full size" custom PCBs and shoudl be an excellent choice. It offers LED backlighting underneath the PCB so if you want, you can have light coming out the side between the two plates.
How do you plan to have the USB connected? You can run the end of a USB pigtail to the proper pads on the PCB where the connector was, but you'll need to secure it with some strain relief. I think that cutting a hole in the top plate is out of the question, but you may be able to cut a hole in the bottom plate and have it route through there for some strain relief. I am interested to see how this progresses.
Thank you for your compliments. I really appreciate it!
Right now I dont plan to add side LEDs. But I will do white switch backlighting.
About the USB. My plan is to have detachable cables and special connectors on the keyboard.
This means I have to wire from the solder joints on the PCB to the connector on one of my side parts and from there via an detachable cable to USB or PS2.
Additional I will be doing a separate cable to my keyboard to connect my mouse.
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Love the design! Maybe a 40% case too?
Once I'm finished I will release my CAD files so everyone can adjust them. ;)