It looks pretty cool. Have you got any layout/fkn layer suggestions?
Original "designer" here :)It looks pretty cool. Have you got any layout/fkn layer suggestions?
http://thumbs.club/
I think I would need more than plate & PCB to turn it into something useful
I think I would need more than plate & PCB to turn it into something useful
Teensy 2.0
Switches
Keycaps
USB Cable
Original "designer" here :)It looks pretty cool. Have you got any layout/fkn layer suggestions?
http://thumbs.club/
Yeah, I plan on having an option to add the appropriate amount of switches (47/46 of your choice) for +$25 and another option (unsure of the price yet) to have the top section (top plate, switches, pcb) assembled and soldered for those that don't have access/know-how.
I made some orders for stuff this weekend, so I'll have some assembled pictures of things pretty soon.
I filled out the form, but want to note that my interest depends on the firmware being flash-able. I'm fine with playing in the C code myself, but I wouldn't want to have such a unique keyboard and be unable to customize the layout.
I'm also looking into producing some matching keycaps that will augment/match the recently finished Granite set. I'll have an interest check form for that when I get the pictures of everything assembled.
Yeah, I plan on having an option to add the appropriate amount of switches (48/47/46 of your choice) for +$25 and another option (unsure of the price yet) to have the top section (top plate, switches, pcb) assembled and soldered for those that don't have access/know-how.
I made some orders for stuff this weekend, so I'll have some assembled pictures of things pretty soon.
I'm also looking into producing some matching keycaps that will augment/match the recently finished Granite set. I'll have an interest check form for that when I get the pictures of everything assembled.
I was thinking of using granite pro mods (I have icons coming my way) which leaves me missing a 1u shift (I'll use alt gr) , 1u return (I'll use a novelty), 2u space and the upper/lower keys (I'll use the Fn keys).
Personally I love each and every of the noveltiesShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/aSIbtik.png)
It would probably be too expensive to do a fully matching set (alphas with diff layers), and people would want their layers customised to their layout. My plan is to do all of the modifier keys + space - basically, everything you'd need if you only bought the common set. I'd like to have each key be purchasable separately, but it may end up being a big ol' set of the most popular ones.OK, that makes sense to me. Best of luck.
I should have a full prototype put together sometime next week/weekend. As soon as that's together and I have some pictures of it, I'll put those online and start accepting orders. Orders will go on for a week, and will hopefully be fulfilled within 2/3 weeks from closing. I'll have any extras for sale afterwards, and make more orders as necessary. The prototypes will be for sale as soon as I get them together.
Now the quest to source a 2u blank granite key cap...
If only someone would make a matrix keyboard like that, except 7x16 (or two pieces of 7x8) and I think once I get my keyboard set up I will never buy another one.
Have you considered trying to run this through massdrop?
I'm interested in one kit with blues at least, and maybe a second with browns. I just can't decide if I want to try soldering it/them myself or paying to have it done. I'm no pro for sure, but I think I could manage, and it would be neat to have a keyboard I'd partially built myself. The Matias switch option interests me too if enough people end up going for that. Especially now that Matias is working on providing extra keycaps. Submitted both forms.
Want to buy two pcb with keycaps, plates(?maybe), switches = one classic + one split hand (all with trackpoints) But how trackpoint will be work? Where R M L mouse buttons are placed? Trackpoint modules from Sprintek? Will be possible add to order trackpoints without other stuff (I want to buy two additional trackpoints)?
I didn't fill out the form yet because I don't know how to answer some of the questions. I didn't know there were 3 stabilizer types for instance not to mention which might be best. But I really like the concept.
I replied to the 2nd interest check form, but I thought I'd respond in a bit more detail here.
On the subject of a trackpoint: Its a cool idea and I certainly think you should continue working on it. But I don't think its necessary and I'd hate to see this project stall due to R&D. Trackpoint can wait until version 2 :)
On the subject of keycaps: With a keyboard this small, every user is going to have their own idea of how to best utilize the space. While it would be possible to do a single DSA set that covers most users, it would be a nightmare trying to please anyone with a profiled (DCS/WASD) set. For profiled keys, I think a better approach would be to work with WASD to provide a compatible template so we can design our own sets.
Thanks for all the work on this, Jack. 160 people responding to the IC is very promising.
The desire to have the perfect keycap set right way is often overwhelming but I agree with you. People who want to be early adopters of this board should just grab a set of blank DSA caps and experiment with the possibilities before locking themselves into a preset layout because of printed keys.
Thanks for all the work on this, Jack. 160 people responding to the IC is very promising.
The desire to have the perfect keycap set right way is often overwhelming but I agree with you. People who want to be early adopters of this board should just grab a set of blank DSA caps and experiment with the possibilities before locking themselves into a preset layout because of printed keys.
Yep, or you can just get in on this group buy that already supports planck layout:
http://www.pimpmykeyboard.com/deals/lunar/
Thanks for all the work on this, Jack. 160 people responding to the IC is very promising.
The desire to have the perfect keycap set right way is often overwhelming but I agree with you. People who want to be early adopters of this board should just grab a set of blank DSA caps and experiment with the possibilities before locking themselves into a preset layout because of printed keys.
Yep, or you can just get in on this group buy that already supports planck layout:
http://www.pimpmykeyboard.com/deals/lunar/
Kinda. "Support" is there but only in the loosest possible way. Look at Jack's caps from WASD; they have the legends for each layer on them. The Lunar set is just the 1u mods and the blank 2u - they keys which are pretty much unchanged between all of the current layout ideas.
To me the main experimentation for Planck layouts will be from the 'upper' and 'lower' mods giving each key the ability to send at least 3 different scancodes. If you want Lunar mods and standard Alphas then go right ahead :) It's just hard to say that there is support for something that doesn't even have a standard layout yet (and only has two unique keys, upper/lower).
Thanks for all the work on this, Jack. 160 people responding to the IC is very promising.
The desire to have the perfect keycap set right way is often overwhelming but I agree with you. People who want to be early adopters of this board should just grab a set of blank DSA caps and experiment with the possibilities before locking themselves into a preset layout because of printed keys.
Yep, or you can just get in on this group buy that already supports planck layout:
http://www.pimpmykeyboard.com/deals/lunar/
Kinda. "Support" is there but only in the loosest possible way. Look at Jack's caps from WASD; they have the legends for each layer on them. The Lunar set is just the 1u mods and the blank 2u - they keys which are pretty much unchanged between all of the current layout ideas.
To me the main experimentation for Planck layouts will be from the 'upper' and 'lower' mods giving each key the ability to send at least 3 different scancodes. If you want Lunar mods and standard Alphas then go right ahead :) It's just hard to say that there is support for something that doesn't even have a standard layout yet (and only has two unique keys, upper/lower).
I get what you are saying, but I think we have completely different definitions of what support means.
I mean, if you define 'support' as in there needs to be a legend for every single layer option, then yes you are right.
But personally I don't need a legend to tell me where my f-buttons or my punctuation is.
Other than the odd glance for something specific, I don't every look at my keyboard. I imagine most touch typists are in the same boat as me.
Legends are just for looks. And honestly, sticking 3 different layers of legends on 1 key looks very messy to me. Specially in a 40% keyboard.
So to each their own. But give me a minimalist styled keyset any day.
Thus I would argue that it fully "supports" my needs.
Btw, would you say that blank key sets don't support any typing? :p
| upper | standard | lower |
| / | | | \ |
| , | . | ! |
| [ | TBC | ] |
| ( | TBC | ) |
| < | TBC | > |
My mean beef is with keys like ', <' '. >' '[ {' '] }' etc. I just feel it sucks to model a very programmable board around the 'standard' alpha functionality, just so the available keys match up. Ergodox supporting keycap sets offer blank keys for such a reason. If the Lunar (and/or future sets) came with ~6 blanks 1u keys in the alpha colour I would be a lot more happy with it. That is just my opinion :)
Thanks for all the work on this, Jack. 160 people responding to the IC is very promising.
The desire to have the perfect keycap set right way is often overwhelming but I agree with you. People who want to be early adopters of this board should just grab a set of blank DSA caps and experiment with the possibilities before locking themselves into a preset layout because of printed keys.
Yep, or you can just get in on this group buy that already supports planck layout:
http://www.pimpmykeyboard.com/deals/lunar/
Kinda. "Support" is there but only in the loosest possible way. Look at Jack's caps from WASD; they have the legends for each layer on them. The Lunar set is just the 1u mods and the blank 2u - they keys which are pretty much unchanged between all of the current layout ideas.
To me the main experimentation for Planck layouts will be from the 'upper' and 'lower' mods giving each key the ability to send at least 3 different scancodes. If you want Lunar mods and standard Alphas then go right ahead :) It's just hard to say that there is support for something that doesn't even have a standard layout yet (and only has two unique keys, upper/lower).
I get what you are saying, but I think we have completely different definitions of what support means.
I mean, if you define 'support' as in there needs to be a legend for every single layer option, then yes you are right.
But personally I don't need a legend to tell me where my f-buttons or my punctuation is.
Other than the odd glance for something specific, I don't every look at my keyboard. I imagine most touch typists are in the same boat as me.
Legends are just for looks. And honestly, sticking 3 different layers of legends on 1 key looks very messy to me. Specially in a 40% keyboard.
So to each their own. But give me a minimalist styled keyset any day.
Thus I would argue that it fully "supports" my needs.
Btw, would you say that blank key sets don't support any typing? :p
I guess, aesthetically, blank keys support all typing ;) Even though aesthetics is a very subjective topic I totally get the points you make.
My mean beef is with keys like ', <' '. >' '[ {' '] }' etc. I just feel it sucks to model a very programmable board around the 'standard' alpha functionality, just so the available keys match up. Ergodox supporting keycap sets offer blank keys for such a reason. If the Lunar (and/or future sets) came with ~6 blanks 1u keys in the alpha colour I would be a lot more happy with it. That is just my opinion :)
I'm primarily a programmer and I'm (slowly) working my own layout for this board. For example I have a keys this:
upper standard lower / | \ , . ! [ TBC ] ( TBC ) < TBC >
I think a set like Granite Mono Alphas would be a good match for both function and form. Really regret not going in on them now as I have almost all of the other keys covered with Granite Icon Pro Mods (damn you blank 2u key)!
Personally, I'd appreciate something as simple as my ErgoDox, i.e. PCB-mounted switches and a simple PVC case—for more flexibility (i.e. modding switches or changing layouts easily) and to keep both price and weight down.
You're supposed to use the modifier opposite the finger you are hitting the modified key with. I can't do it. Right mods and I don't get along.
Im a big fan of the caps lock + wasd = arrows on my poker, I would mirror that on the planck. It's so convenient.
Im a big fan of the caps lock + wasd = arrows on my poker, I would mirror that on the planck. It's so convenient.You not alone, best place for arrows imho, caps+wasd - near zero time for hand movement, love it. Arrows in planck keyboard in VIM order but in wrong place :)
Im a big fan of the caps lock + wasd = arrows on my poker, I would mirror that on the planck. It's so convenient.You not alone, best place for arrows imho, caps+wasd - near zero time for hand movement, love it. Arrows in planck keyboard in VIM order but in wrong place :)
But the thing I can't understand is this: How on earth are you supposed to hit <space> comfortably? Is it ergonomic to have such a tiny spacebar placed so far away from the thumbs? I normally press <space> where the orange buttons on this keyboard are.
Guys, what do you guys think about the weird spacebar on the planck?
Even though I tend to press space between CV I don't think it would be a huge nuisance for me to stretch over a key.Reaching that far over along that row with your thumb forces you to tilt your hands to be more aligned with the grid of the keyboard, putting unnecessary uncomfortable strain on the wrists.
How much do the steel plates weigh?
Do you plan to cut holes for opening switches without desoldering?
What does assembly consist of? SMD diodes, witches, connector and Teensy? Will PCB-mount switches be supported?
How on earth are you supposed to hit <space> comfortably? Is it ergonomic to have such a tiny spacebar placed so far away from the thumbs?
Where can I read about some of the ideas/philosophy behind this layout?
(Attachment Link)
Is it more correct to use both the left and right modifier keys, like using left-ctrl+C and right-ctrl+C?
This kind of keyboard absolutely requires split logical layout though, which makes the key in the middle a bit difficult to reach.
Good news the board is supposed to be programmable.
Has anyone even tested it for more than a few hours of typing? It’s IMO irresponsible to get people buying into a production run without at least a few weeks of full time testing by at least a couple of people.
I've been using this exclusively for a month (I'm a soft dev), and ptramo's been using it off and on for a week or so - I'm not sure of his exclusivity. I consider myself sensitive to RSIs, but have never had any problems since switching away from qwerty (dvorak for 5 years, colemak for 2 months) - if you use qwerty and are concerned about ergonomics/split-hand stuff, I'd switch your layout, or try something like the ergodox.Can you make a video of yourself typing on it? :-)
To be clear, I've found the Planck very comfortable to type on. The only real problems I've had have been with mod size (backspace, shift), and some odd key combos with symbols (zooming/tab switching) that I haven't rebound yet.
My goal is to have some sort of online editor/sharing for layouts - like keyboard-layout-editor.com, but with a "download hex" (the thing that gets flashed to the board) option.
Thanks. Sooo… what's the minimal "order" to get a working keyboard? If I get just the PCB and supply my own PCB-mount Cherry MX switches (and keycaps), what do I have to get/do then (apart from soldering switches)?
See jacks answer above:Thanks. Sooo… what's the minimal "order" to get a working keyboard? If I get just the PCB and supply my own PCB-mount Cherry MX switches (and keycaps), what do I have to get/do then (apart from soldering switches)?
I'm not sure what hardware will be presoldered for us, so we may need a USB port diodes and all that nonsense. You may also want plates and a case.
Interest Check #2 covered this, but all PCBs are SMD and assembled, meaning the diodes, USB, and IC (Teensy equiv.) are soldered on. PCB-mounted switches and stabilisers will be supported.
Can you make a video of yourself typing on it? :-)
Is it possible to have these combos?
1. 'Lower + tab' gives 'ctrl + tab'
2. Normal key press gives '[' and shifted key press gives ']'
This would be great. I assume you have seen the MassDrop ergodox layout editor?
(www.massdrop.com/ext/ergodox)
Thanks. Sooo… what's the minimal "order" to get a working keyboard? If I get just the PCB and supply my own PCB-mount Cherry MX switches (and keycaps), what do I have to get/do then (apart from soldering switches)?
Yeah, I mean, what's the "Just the soldering (~$50)" option then? Only soldering switches?
And if diodes come presoldered, what would I have to do, if I wanted to convert the PCB for example from The Grid to MIT?
I know I'm coming into this a little late - any hope for a Alps version?
What about dates? Want to get this board before new year or in first quarter of 2015!!! When you plan to start production and shipping?
Other updates:thank you for the update :)
Trackpoint has proven to be a little more difficult than I imagined. I may delay this to later versions, or just have instructions to do this manually.
After talking to the manufacturer, I may be able to lower the price on the metal plates quite a bit. This is pretty exciting - it opens up more doors for custom layouts. If you have one that you think makes a lot of sense that wasn't on the interest check, let me know and I may be able to support it.
Thanks a lot! I've filed the IC again for PCBs only. If Alps don't happen, I'm not too concerned.Thanks. Sooo… what's the minimal "order" to get a working keyboard? If I get just the PCB and supply my own PCB-mount Cherry MX switches (and keycaps), what do I have to get/do then (apart from soldering switches)?
Just the PCB, some switches, and a USB cable - you'll want to have some separation between your desk and the PCB, though. I'm planning on pre-loading firmware with my layout so things will work as soon as you plug it in.Yeah, I mean, what's the "Just the soldering (~$50)" option then? Only soldering switches?
And if diodes come presoldered, what would I have to do, if I wanted to convert the PCB for example from The Grid to MIT?
Nathan's right on here - "Just the soldering" means the switches are mounted on the plate (if you want one - keep in mind I don't have a source for PCB-mounted switches), and then soldered to the PCB. All PCBs will have components soldered on, and support all of the different layouts. There's no need to convert the PCB.
Other updates:thank you for the update :)
Trackpoint has proven to be a little more difficult than I imagined. I may delay this to later versions, or just have instructions to do this manually.
After talking to the manufacturer, I may be able to lower the price on the metal plates quite a bit. This is pretty exciting - it opens up more doors for custom layouts. If you have one that you think makes a lot of sense that wasn't on the interest check, let me know and I may be able to support it.
Will you include an option to support a nordic layout with ĺäö keys?
You talked about it a little bit on the reedit post :)
How would the keyboard support diacritic marks? USB HID compliant keyboards send *codes* and it's OS' job to interpret them. The firmware should only support sending the ISO extra key's code.
Will you include an option to support a nordic layout with ĺäö keys?
Just curious (I apologize, if it's a stupid question, I know next to nothing about PCB design), in case I decide to switch from The Grid to MIT, which has one key less, I won't have to deal with diodes at all? What about the firmware?
Fancy!Just curious (I apologize, if it's a stupid question, I know next to nothing about PCB design), in case I decide to switch from The Grid to MIT, which has one key less, I won't have to deal with diodes at all? What about the firmware?
All the diodes can stay in place for switch configurations, thanks to fancy engineering. Because of this, the firmware can also stay the same, but you may want to reprogram it since you're losing/gaining a key. Desoldering isn't the easiest thing in the world, but with some practice and online videos, I'm pretty sure anybody could figure it out.
Is there any plans to sell this keyboard as a complete one instead of a kit?Check the IC #2, there's an assembly option.
I guess form factor is not an option. So, if you'll plan Planck v.2 with a 5x14 matrix (at least), please count me in.
I need 5x14 to support international languages used by people around me, as well as my own national language (Vietnamese).
Are there any plans to sell this keyboard as a complete one instead of a kit?
I guess form factor is not an option. So, if you'll plan Planck v.2 with a 5x14 matrix (at least), please count me in.
I need 5x14 to support international languages used by people around me, as well as my own national language (Vietnamese).
It sounds like what I'm calling the "Atomic" keyboard will be better suited for that. It's the same size as the Poker/Pure/etc, but ortholinear. It'll mostly be 5x15 and have lots of layout options like these: http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/layouts/c18df9c104554325503f4a3edd457734
I haven't started designing it yet, since I'm focusing on producing the Planck, but I'll be posting interest checks for that in the coming months.
Is this still happening? :'(
Is this still happening? :'(
It is! I have a small update:
I've just ordered 10 MIT Tops from a different supplier (along with 10 Tops and Bottoms for the Atomic keyboard - the Poker-sized ortholinear), and will be selling them along with the bottoms I already have, and taking orders for those that are just interested in the plates (hand-wiring a board) once I've gotten the chance to review the plates. I'm also going to be including hardware (10 M2 screws with 5 double female 10mm spacers) with these.
Options will include all of the top options in the interest checks, and the standard bottom (I'll provide the CAD files of everything so you'll know what you'll be getting). If there's enough interest, I may do an ALPS option with this run too.
Is this still happening? :'(
It is! I have a small update:
I've just ordered 10 MIT Tops from a different supplier (along with 10 Tops and Bottoms for the Atomic keyboard - the Poker-sized ortholinear), and will be selling them along with the bottoms I already have, and taking orders for those that are just interested in the plates (hand-wiring a board) once I've gotten the chance to review the plates. I'm also going to be including hardware (10 M2 screws with 5 double female 10mm spacers) with these.
Options will include all of the top options in the interest checks, and the standard bottom (I'll provide the CAD files of everything so you'll know what you'll be getting). If there's enough interest, I may do an ALPS option with this run too.
Have PCBs for plancks been made?
the atomic is the 60% you mentioned before right?
oh awesome. i wonder if the atomic would fit in any aluminum %60 cases...
Is it just me or are both of Jacks keyboard sites down?
have you thought about incorporating the case design into the plate like the infinity or gon skinny?
planckkeyboard.com was down yesterday for a bit due to the ddos attacks going around, but both should be up now. My email's always open if you ever have questions!
Whoa.
That's a cool idea. Did you harvest a USB hub for the ports?
Embedded my favorite Sabrent USB 2 hub http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L2442H0 in the back using some more of Jack's mounting hardware.
That's a cool idea. Did you harvest a USB hub for the ports?
This was in his Imgur descriptions.QuoteEmbedded my favorite Sabrent USB 2 hub http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L2442H0 in the back using some more of Jack's mounting hardware.
Here's my "atomic red":Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3gNDJAh.jpg)
Full Album (http://imgur.com/a/qv3iL)
Here's a planck I just finished (though not yet sealed up on the sides... still thinking about that). Calling it my "tilt-shift planck" since I gave it a wedge shape.Here's my "atomic red":Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3gNDJAh.jpg)
Full Album (http://imgur.com/a/qv3iL)
Wow! I'm really jealous of your case :thumb:
Full Album (http://imgur.com/a/tF6YT)
With Penumbra and a work-in-progress layout:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8gWPVwb.jpg)
Three outward facing USB ports:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LCA27k5.jpg)
Might still be a bit early but any ideas on what the cost is going to be for the PCB's?
The tilt seems to go great with the SA caps, very cool :thumb:
that's good to hear! i look forward to seeing it.Might still be a bit early but any ideas on what the cost is going to be for the PCB's?
Still too early to have a definite price, but the goal is to be cheaper than the cost of a Teensy + diodes + wire when buying those thing for hand-wiring one.
Call me crazy, but is there any chance we might ever see a fullsize version?
Do you have any ETA on the PCB for Planck? And does someone have a tip to mod it to Bluetooth?
Do you have any ETA on the PCB for Planck? And does someone have a tip to mod it to Bluetooth?
I'm working on that right now. I should be able to try out something with the Bluefruit module. I'll post results.
Do you have any ETA on the PCB for Planck? And does someone have a tip to mod it to Bluetooth?
The PCB is still in planning, and is being coordinated with the design of better (CNC'd) bottoms. The main hurdle here is the assembling (pick-n-placing) of the PCB, and ensuring that the schematic is going to work, etc. This is also the area I have the least amount of experience in (so far), so I'm taking my time with the designing portion, and not rushing into things.
Do you have any ETA on the PCB for Planck? And does someone have a tip to mod it to Bluetooth?
I'm working on that right now. I should be able to try out something with the Bluefruit module. I'll post results.
Darn, I was hoping the PCB would work with the simpler, formed metal bottom plates. I like them!
CNC = expensive
Darn, I was hoping the PCB would work with the simpler, formed metal bottom plates. I like them!
CNC = expensive
It'll work with both/all! The holes are in the same place and everything. I'm trying my best to make sure everything stays compatible with each other.
The CNC quote I got isn't that expensive ($30 for a Planck bottom - not sure about the Atomic yet), but maybe I'm not charging enough!
I have-not soldered in years. This is how far I have gotten.Show Image(http://red.dazoe.net/stuff/Top.jpg)Show Image(http://red.dazoe.net/stuff/Bdiode.jpg)
After getting to this point I realize I don't actually own a pair of wire strippers. :eek: I don't know how I have managed that.
PCB! PCB! ;D
PCB! PCB! ;D
Getting quotes and ready to order some prototypes!
I can't believe you shaved 2.5mm off the case. It was already so small! HOW U DO DIS???
Now find me a way to fit a battery and the hardware necessary for a bluetooth module.
Now find me a way to fit a battery and the hardware necessary for a bluetooth module.
If we find a standard way to hook-up bluetooth to it, I can probably carve out a section of the case to fit the module and the battery.
I'm kind of throwing around another slim case design that would have room for bluetooth. If anyone has dimensions for the components they wanna use, email them to me!
Jack, one thing I'm noticing with the Atomic plates is that the cutouts are a tiny bit "loose" with Cherry stabs. Have you heard of anyone else having an issue?
I have mine assembled and even put key caps on it. Just waiting on that PCB! :D
Anyway, the Cherry stabilizers have a little clip at the top that clip into the plate. The problem with the Atomic's cutouts is that there's a little notch taken out at the top, which is exactly where that clip would be holding onto.I believe these cutout shapes are designed to support both plate-mounted Costar stabilizers and PCB-mounted Cherry stabilizers. As far as I know it’s not possible to simultaneously support both Costar stabs and plate-mounted Cherry stabs.
Well that would explain it.Anyway, the Cherry stabilizers have a little clip at the top that clip into the plate. The problem with the Atomic's cutouts is that there's a little notch taken out at the top, which is exactly where that clip would be holding onto.I believe these cutout shapes are designed to support both plate-mounted Costar stabilizers and PCB-mounted Cherry stabilizers. As far as I know it’s not possible to simultaneously support both Costar stabs and plate-mounted Cherry stabs.
SOON...:eek:
Here are some pics of the milled bottoms received on Friday:Minor blemishes aside, those look great.
http://imgur.com/a/CebPw
There are a few cosmetic issues with this batch (all of which are sold) that I'm hoping to work out in the next one.
Man, how are you able to get the plates and cases made so cheap? :eek:
I've so many questions!
- Is the case milled or are the sides just bent upwards?
- The screws on the bottom side of the bottom plate/case, they protrude out a bit I presume?
- Putting the screws in between the keys - do the keycaps touch the screws at all when they bottom out?
Sure! The profiled SA keycaps will be here Monday, and I'll announce them as soon as I have pictures. They're on the site right now if anyone wants to jump on them before you see what they look like (they're all blank).
I'm switching to a different finish (#4 - brushed) for stainless steel parts on the next order - I'm excited to see how those will look.
We're arranging the prototype order for the PCB now - the Chinese New Year delayed getting that finalised.
I'm hoping to get the acrylic case quote figured out soon - it may end up being some besides acrylic.
There's been some interest in the Super Planck/Planck+ (name pending), so I'm gonna start getting a quote for that to begin sales.
I think that's all for now - I've been fulfilling a lot of orders and trying to catch back up from delays. I'm hoping to stick closer to the 3 week fulfillment gap in the future - there were some recently that got set back to 4/5 weeks.
Any teasers on this Super Planck/Planck+?
Sure! The profiled SA keycaps will be here Monday, and I'll announce them as soon as I have pictures. They're on the site right now if anyone wants to jump on them before you see what they look like (they're all blank).
I'm switching to a different finish (#4 - brushed) for stainless steel parts on the next order - I'm excited to see how those will look.
We're arranging the prototype order for the PCB now - the Chinese New Year delayed getting that finalised.
I'm hoping to get the acrylic case quote figured out soon - it may end up being some besides acrylic.
There's been some interest in the Super Planck/Planck+ (name pending), so I'm gonna start getting a quote for that to begin sales.
I think that's all for now - I've been fulfilling a lot of orders and trying to catch back up from delays. I'm hoping to stick closer to the 3 week fulfillment gap in the future - there were some recently that got set back to 4/5 weeks.
Any teasers on this Super Planck/Planck+?
/u/loadaslife and I talked about it a bit, and he went ahead and prototyped it here: http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2x4h3g/custom_60_ortholinear_planck_build_log/
Imgur link: http://imgur.com/a/NJn4S
I'm thinking about only having one layout, and one case option (milled aluminum), but I haven't finalised anything yet. No PCB planned for this guy - might be hand-wire only for a while.
Just came across the Planck and Atomic... the former is a little *too* small for me, but the Atomic is as close to a perfect keyboard design as I have even seen in a single board. The only problem with it is the giant spacebar - it would be such a waste to have a great keyboard like this but not have the thumbs able to do different things. Split spacebar version is the way forward!
If the atomic makes it to being purchasable as a complete product I would love to have one of those bad boys!
I was interested in an atomic plate and formed case until I saw that shipping to the UK costs nearly as much as the order. On further experimentation it's no cheaper for just the Planck plate so I have to ask - is the website estimator accurate?
Just came across the Planck and Atomic... the former is a little *too* small for me, but the Atomic is as close to a perfect keyboard design as I have even seen in a single board. The only problem with it is the giant spacebar - it would be such a waste to have a great keyboard like this but not have the thumbs able to do different things. Split spacebar version is the way forward!
If the atomic makes it to being purchasable as a complete product I would love to have one of those bad boys!
I was interested in an atomic plate and formed case until I saw that shipping to the UK costs nearly as much as the order. On further experimentation it's no cheaper for just the Planck plate so I have to ask - is the website estimator accurate?
If you shoot me an email, I can drop the shipping a bit - it's so high to accommodate parts that make the envelope too thick. With the parts you listed, it'll likely be around $15.
any update on PCB progress?
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Ef6dAx7.jpg)
PCB prototypes have been ordered!
Looks as though the diodes and uC (surface mount) are going to be assembled by the PCB manufacturer, so all you'd have to do is switches. (Anyone affiliated with the project please correct me if I'm wrong)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Ef6dAx7.jpg)
PCB prototypes have been ordered!
Awesome! Does that have an integrated controller? And what the heck is going on with that bottom row?
Looks as though the diodes and uC (surface mount) are going to be assembled by the PCB manufacturer, so all you'd have to do is switches. (Anyone affiliated with the project please correct me if I'm wrong)
The bottom row looks as though it supports multiple layouts
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Ef6dAx7.jpg)
PCB prototypes have been ordered!
When will the kits with the PCB and new milled bottom be available on the store?
No, me!
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Sb5QJ4F.jpg)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Ef6dAx7.jpg)
PCB prototypes have been ordered!
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Ef6dAx7.jpg)
PCB prototypes have been ordered!
Has there been any consideration for adding blue tooth functionality either on the pcb itself or through break out boards? Also will the typical firmwares(tmk, easyavr, etc) work with the controller on these pcbs? To me at least, it's incredibly important that these boards are fully programmable simply due to the limited nature of the size of the keyboard.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Ef6dAx7.jpg)
PCB prototypes have been ordered!
Has there been any consideration for adding blue tooth functionality either on the pcb itself or through break out boards? Also will the typical firmwares(tmk, easyavr, etc) work with the controller on these pcbs? To me at least, it's incredibly important that these boards are fully programmable simply due to the limited nature of the size of the keyboard.
All of Jacks work on firmware (https://github.com/jackhumbert/tmk_keyboard) has been based on tmk. I don't see why he would make the PCBs uncompatible with that.
Has there been any consideration for adding blue tooth functionality either on the pcb itself or through break out boards?
Also will the typical firmwares(tmk, easyavr, etc) work with the controller on these pcbs? To me at least, it's incredibly important that these boards are fully programmable simply due to the limited nature of the size of the keyboard.
Can I get the hole spacing for the Atomic short space top plate? I have been working on an openscad model for a simple 3-part 3D print case, but my iffy ruler measuring seems to be slightly inaccurate and some of the holes don't line up perfectly.
Currently I had:
hole_locations_y = [22, 26.5, 98.5, 173.5, 249.5, 268.5];
hole_locations_x = [22, 79.5, 41, 59.5, 22, 78.5];
where the measurements are from the upper left hand corner of the plate (near where Esc key would be). Y is along the long length of the keyboard, x is down along the short edge.
I have also made a modified version of the tmk firmware for the short-space atomic, so I can share some of the files for that soon if people are interested.
Got the keyboard working in it's current rather rough case. At least good enough that I can try it out. Quick picture attached. (Some of the keys do not label what they actually do. )
Looks nice and clean. The 1u mods are not a problem?
I'm sure that's what I'd stumble on the most.
Finished my prototype case. I have a few things to fix but I'm happy with the result.
(http://i.imgur.com/72z785Ol.jpg) (http://http://imgur.com/a/YMvya)
Full Album (http://http://imgur.com/a/YMvya)
Planck PCB prototypes have arrived!Nice!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6Gpav37.jpg)
P.S. Thanks for posting photos, guys. They look great!
Planck PCB prototypes have arrived!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6Gpav37.jpg)
P.S. Thanks for posting photos, guys. They look great!
Atomic next! :D
Planck PCB prototypes have arrived!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6Gpav37.jpg)
P.S. Thanks for posting photos, guys. They look great!
When will these be available!!! D:
When will these be available!!! D:
Within a month! Will hopefully have more news next week.
Btw, for those people having issues with stabilisers, this is footprint I'm going to be switching to in the future - it should work perfectly with costar ones (current cut-outs don't), and cherry ones will fit, but may be a little loose.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xlahoYQ.png)
Nice. I think Cherry plate stabs are a little loose in the current plates anyway, so no real change there. Can you briefly summarize what's changed in this new plate cutout?
Are Cherry PCB stabs supported? I don't really know what to look for on those. :P
Nice. I think Cherry plate stabs are a little loose in the current plates anyway, so no real change there. Can you briefly summarize what's changed in this new plate cutout?
The costar cut-out part has been moved up a bit so that the middle of the cross on the white piece aligns with the middle of the keyswitch (allowing it to function as intended) - currently it requires the end of the white piece to be clipped. Unfortunately, I don't think there's a way to lock the cherry one in place and allow the costar ones to work.
Nice. I think Cherry plate stabs are a little loose in the current plates anyway, so no real change there. Can you briefly summarize what's changed in this new plate cutout?
The costar cut-out part has been moved up a bit so that the middle of the cross on the white piece aligns with the middle of the keyswitch (allowing it to function as intended) - currently it requires the end of the white piece to be clipped. Unfortunately, I don't think there's a way to lock the cherry one in place and allow the costar ones to work.Are Cherry PCB stabs supported? I don't really know what to look for on those. :P
The PCB is compatible, and I think the plates are too, as it follows Cherry's spec for them. I have some on order that I'll be testing to make sure.
What's wrong with Costar on the plates? I use Costar stabilizers on my Atomic just fine, no clipping. They don't bind or anything. I also used my Atomic plates to get measurements for Costar stabilizers and transfered that to my 3D printed test plate and the stabilizers worked fine there too.
Cool. Does that go for the actual PCBs too? I think I see holes for PCB-mount stabs in your shot of the Planck PCBs. :)
What's wrong with Costar on the plates? I use Costar stabilizers on my Atomic just fine, no clipping. They don't bind or anything. I also used my Atomic plates to get measurements for Costar stabilizers and transfered that to my 3D printed test plate and the stabilizers worked fine there too.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rhk1Yhp.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/lCJrA1h.jpg)
It may be hard to see in these photos, but I've aligned my clipped white piece with the center of the keyswitch, and one side should be touching the edge of the black piece, so that it slides freely.
Do the ones you're using look different?
What's wrong with Costar on the plates? I use Costar stabilizers on my Atomic just fine, no clipping. They don't bind or anything. I also used my Atomic plates to get measurements for Costar stabilizers and transfered that to my 3D printed test plate and the stabilizers worked fine there too.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rhk1Yhp.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/lCJrA1h.jpg)
It may be hard to see in these photos, but I've aligned my clipped white piece with the center of the keyswitch, and one side should be touching the edge of the black piece, so that it slides freely.
Do the ones you're using look different?
It looks to me like the black part of the stabilizer isn't fully seated in your picture. The right side from the angle that picture is taken looks like it isn't seated in the groove. Notice how the black supports are both vertical in my picture. The ones on the right side of your pic don't look seated and it's causing the support post to sit on an angle, not allowing the white part to fit.
Check mine out:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ht4QH8hl.jpg)
It looks to me like the black part of the stabilizer isn't fully seated in your picture. The right side from the angle that picture is taken looks like it isn't seated in the groove. Notice how the black supports are both vertical in my picture. The ones on the right side of your pic don't look seated and it's causing the support post to sit on an angle, not allowing the white part to fit.
Check mine out:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ht4QH8hl.jpg)
It looks to me like the black part of the stabilizer isn't fully seated in your picture. The right side from the angle that picture is taken looks like it isn't seated in the groove. Notice how the black supports are both vertical in my picture. The ones on the right side of your pic don't look seated and it's causing the support post to sit on an angle, not allowing the white part to fit.
Check mine out:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ht4QH8hl.jpg)
The one pictured there is all the way up against the left wall, right? And it's still not perfectly centered - there's not meant to be any gap at all. It might fit, but it's definitely stressed when moving up and down.
I did mess with it a bit to shove it in, but there's just not enough space to get it aligned.
The resulting cut-out I mentioned above was made from taking measurements of the costar stabiliser components.
Here's a comparison of the two - new one is on the left (I forgot to add the tabs on the sides earlier), current one is on the right:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ysuaEvL.png)
Here is an album of how I install mine, works every time and they are in there solid. I use needle nose pliers, it doesn't take much force and they pop in. This does not harm the insert and I've reused them for different build tests. These photos were taking on an Atomic plate. If you would like I can toss a switch in so I can take an unobstructed picture of it with a cap on. It's not being torqued on or anything, the white slider moves freely inside the stabilizer and lines up with the key/cap.
http://imgur.com/a/bAAO3 (http://imgur.com/a/bAAO3)
Here is an album of how I install mine, works every time and they are in there solid. I use needle nose pliers, it doesn't take much force and they pop in. This does not harm the insert and I've reused them for different build tests. These photos were taking on an Atomic plate. If you would like I can toss a switch in so I can take an unobstructed picture of it with a cap on. It's not being torqued on or anything, the white slider moves freely inside the stabilizer and lines up with the key/cap.
http://imgur.com/a/bAAO3 (http://imgur.com/a/bAAO3)
If you can, could you try taking a pic of your stabiliser with the keycap?
Possibly dumb question here, but does it matter too much which pin on the Teensy I use for each column/row? I'm a noob at hand wiring, well, anything with a Teensy. I need to my hand held. Tightly.
Possibly dumb question here, but does it matter too much which pin on the Teensy I use for each column/row? I'm a noob at hand wiring, well, anything with a Teensy. I need to my hand held. Tightly.
Possibly dumb question here, but does it matter too much which pin on the Teensy I use for each column/row? I'm a noob at hand wiring, well, anything with a Teensy. I need to my hand held. Tightly.
If you copmile your own firmware, it doesn't matter (as long as you don't use the reserved pins).
You can use Jacks tool to help make the firmware for your pin layout: http://planckkeyboard.com/matrix.html
Possibly dumb question here, but does it matter too much which pin on the Teensy I use for each column/row? I'm a noob at hand wiring, well, anything with a Teensy. I need to my hand held. Tightly.
If you copmile your own firmware, it doesn't matter (as long as you don't use the reserved pins).
You can use Jacks tool to help make the firmware for your pin layout: http://planckkeyboard.com/matrix.html
Which ones are the reserved pins?
People have used many plates with the design on the right, if the depth of that cut is about 0.53-0.54mm. I provided plate drawings for several group buys with those hole dimensions, and most people seem to be able to use Costar stabs with them. You do have to sort of pry outward from the inside of the stab insert to get it seated properly. I don't really know how to describe the technique.
No problem, check the album again I added a few more pictures to the end.
People have used many plates with the design on the right, if the depth of that cut is about 0.53-0.54mm. I provided plate drawings for several group buys with those hole dimensions, and most people seem to be able to use Costar stabs with them. You do have to sort of pry outward from the inside of the stab insert to get it seated properly. I don't really know how to describe the technique.No problem, check the album again I added a few more pictures to the end.
Here's my clipped stab that's floating (tried to jiggle it around a bit to find where it wants to sit) with some dimensions that I took off the black piece immediately after (smaller dimension is inferred, not measured):Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cp6qJBR.png)
Here's the two designs with the dimensions (left, right), and the difference (middle) - it's pretty close to the difference in the first photo (the new design needs to be double-checked):Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Br3e3DC.png)
The only problem I see with the new design is that the bottom part is a bit shallower - this is there only so the wire on the Cherry stabs doesn't hit the plate. In my testing, it didn't come out more than 0.25mm or so (horizontally), but only in a hyper-extended state. I didn't think to dimension it, but it's 0.29mm on the new design, compared to 1.143mm on the current.
Your 7.95mm measurement, I measured 4 of mine and they all came out to 8mm flat.
Can't the stabilizers just be flipped so the bar is at the top to avoid the LED? Just gotta flip the cap inserts too. I've never done it myself but I have seen others do it. I'll try tomorrow, still not sure why yours don't line up.
Possibly dumb question here, but does it matter too much which pin on the Teensy I use for each column/row? I'm a noob at hand wiring, well, anything with a Teensy. I need to my hand held. Tightly.
If you copmile your own firmware, it doesn't matter (as long as you don't use the reserved pins).
You can use Jacks tool to help make the firmware for your pin layout: http://planckkeyboard.com/matrix.html
Which ones are the reserved pins?
You want to leave VCC, GRN and pin D6.
If you look at the matrix tool I linked to, it only lets you use the good pins (you can draw a line from the pin to a column or row on keyboard below it).
I used this as my reference. : http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/brownfox-step-by-step-t6050.html
@prdlm2009: Don't use F4, F5 or F7. I just discovered they're not available as I/O pins unless you disable the JTAG interface, and the current Planck codebase doesn't do that.
Can't the stabilizers just be flipped so the bar is at the top to avoid the LED? Just gotta flip the cap inserts too. I've never done it myself but I have seen others do it. I'll try tomorrow, still not sure why yours don't line up.
I've tried this, and unfortunately, it doesn't work. There's 8 different combinations, but 6 are ruled out because of the switch getting in the way. The two remaining are the different positions of the white piece, which is irrelevant with it being clipped (that makes it symmetrical).
I've gotten a couple different comments on the costar cut-out not really working, and my advice has always been to clip them :) that's also the reason I only sell Cherry ones.
I've got some more testing to do, but it looks like the new one is gonna work!
I personally don't want to change the layout for the stabilizers. Aren't these known measurements you used? I have two Atomic plates and a Filco, they all have Costar stabilizers that work 100% without binding. And as I said before I pulled measurements from your plate to make my 3D printed plate and the stabilizers work there as well. Can you show pictures of why you are cutting the white inserts? The pictures on the last page don't tell me much because you're using clipped inserts. I'm still not convinced it's not user error especially when they work for me and others. I can't help but think that people with issues just don't have them fully seated. Maybe I'm wrong and they do need a change, I'm just having trouble understanding why.
I personally don't want to change the layout for the stabilizers. Aren't these known measurements you used? I have two Atomic plates and a Filco, they all have Costar stabilizers that work 100% without binding. And as I said before I pulled measurements from your plate to make my 3D printed plate and the stabilizers work there as well. Can you show pictures of why you are cutting the white inserts? The pictures on the last page don't tell me much because you're using clipped inserts. I'm still not convinced it's not user error especially when they work for me and others. I can't help but think that people with issues just don't have them fully seated. Maybe I'm wrong and they do need a change, I'm just having trouble understanding why.
They can still be misaligned even if they aren't binding - the parts are flexible enough that the misalignment isn't obvious when they aren't clipped.
I think if you clip your white pieces (if you have extras), you'll be able to see how they aren't perfectly aligned - you can also see this by looking at the off-center stems in your pic here:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/q1sxdbU.jpg)
They only look off center in that picture because they float free inside of the black part. I just put them in and they line up dead nuts center with the switch stem. I measure from the next row to the center of the key stem and the same for the white insert and they are both the same. That's why I'm so confused as to what isn't working for you. Not only do they not bind, there is room for them to move around.
Here is a shot without the metal bit in. I get no binding and the key is just as easy to press as one without stabs. If needed I can take a video to show it's smooth operation, and I've never lubed a stabilizer before.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iLHVFRSl.jpg)
They only look off center in that picture because they float free inside of the black part. I just put them in and they line up dead nuts center with the switch stem. I measure from the next row to the center of the key stem and the same for the white insert and they are both the same. That's why I'm so confused as to what isn't working for you. Not only do they not bind, there is room for them to move around.
Here is a shot without the metal bit in. I get no binding and the key is just as easy to press as one without stabs. If needed I can take a video to show it's smooth operation, and I've never lubed a stabilizer before.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iLHVFRSl.jpg)
I understand that it's not binding, but it's clearly stressed, and not level:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ojRY6eo.jpg)
The difference we're talking about is 0.6mm - it's very small, and the plastic pieces are able to flex that amount to allow mostly normal operation.
The clipping of the white piece is only done to one side (I only clip the long side), which is why it's easy to tell from the photos I took that things aren't as they should be. I'm not sure what else I can provide as evidence.
That photo doesn't show anything. That cap can jiggle around and everything. It's not in anyway pushed against the black insert.
Here is a video and you can see that when I twist it, it touches the black part, but otherwise it's free.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BW49CsB2fJc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BW49CsB2fJc)
So without starting from the very beginning of matteo's firmware, how the hell do I program this thing? I'm not very good at navigating TMK firmware.
So without starting from the very beginning of matteo's firmware, how the hell do I program this thing? I'm not very good at navigating TMK firmware.
So without starting from the very beginning of matteo's firmware, how the hell do I program this thing? I'm not very good at navigating TMK firmware.
First, you want to get be able to build the firmware so follow this guide (https://github.com/jackhumbert/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/doc/build.md). Once you have all of that stuff installed, you want to navigate to the planck folder (https://github.com/jackhumbert/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/planck) and run the make command in there. You will find in the file Makefile.pjrc (https://github.com/jackhumbert/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/keyboard/planck/Makefile.pjrc) that it will default to building keymap_jack. When the build is finished you can load your firmware. I used the teensy loader (https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/loader.html), I think there are other methods as well.
I recommend figuring all of that out and making sure your board works fine with one of the more normal layouts before trying to configure your own layout. When you're ready to edit a layout I would clone an existing one then start to move around the key codes. The file keycode.txt (https://github.com/jackhumbert/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/doc/keycode.txt) will let you know how to reference the keys you want. Edit, load onto your planck, test, repeat :D
So without starting from the very beginning of matteo's firmware, how the hell do I program this thing? I'm not very good at navigating TMK firmware.
The only real modification you should have to make (to get a working keyboard) is to matrix.c (you can use the previously mentioned http://planckkeyboard.com/matrix.html).So without starting from the very beginning of matteo's firmware, how the hell do I program this thing? I'm not very good at navigating TMK firmware.
First, you want to get be able to build the firmware so follow this guide (https://github.com/jackhumbert/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/doc/build.md). Once you have all of that stuff installed, you want to navigate to the planck folder (https://github.com/jackhumbert/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/planck) and run the make command in there. You will find in the file Makefile.pjrc (https://github.com/jackhumbert/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/keyboard/planck/Makefile.pjrc) that it will default to building keymap_jack. When the build is finished you can load your firmware. I used the teensy loader (https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/loader.html), I think there are other methods as well.
I recommend figuring all of that out and making sure your board works fine with one of the more normal layouts before trying to configure your own layout. When you're ready to edit a layout I would clone an existing one then start to move around the key codes. The file keycode.txt (https://github.com/jackhumbert/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/doc/keycode.txt) will let you know how to reference the keys you want. Edit, load onto your planck, test, repeat :D
I use Makefile (https://github.com/jackhumbert/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/keyboard/planck/Makefile) here instead of Makefile.pjrc, but this is right-on!
With 60% less potato...
(Attachment Link)
... and here's my build log: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70092.0
With 60% less potato...HHNNNNNNNNNNGGGG!
(Attachment Link)
... and here's my build log: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70092.0
Thanks guys, I was able to program the keyboard and typing on it right now. The directions were less confusing than I thought, just lots of fluff in there.
Now to customizing my keymap. I might ask for someone to double check my file for that.
Potentially dumb question here. Okay, I keep having this issue on the Planck when I ratchet down the plate screws. Everything works fine before I put the bottom plate on. Whenever I put the bottom plate on and tighten the screws, the Teensy puts pressure on Column 2 and causes multiple key presses. I have the Teensy wedged between Columns 2 and 3, and it has broken a couple solder joints. I have repaired those joints, yet when I re-insert the screws, I still have problems, even with improved solder joints. I have kept the screws a little loose, to no avail.
TL;DR Column 2 under the Teensy keeps malfunctioning with tightened plates, can't seem to get keyboard to work smoothly unless I remove bottom plate
First of all, does anybody know what causes this problem?
Second, do you think this could be solved by using spacers greater than 10 mm, or is the problem deeper than that?
Potentially dumb question here. Okay, I keep having this issue on the Planck when I ratchet down the plate screws. Everything works fine before I put the bottom plate on. Whenever I put the bottom plate on and tighten the screws, the Teensy puts pressure on Column 2 and causes multiple key presses. I have the Teensy wedged between Columns 2 and 3, and it has broken a couple solder joints. I have repaired those joints, yet when I re-insert the screws, I still have problems, even with improved solder joints. I have kept the screws a little loose, to no avail.
TL;DR Column 2 under the Teensy keeps malfunctioning with tightened plates, can't seem to get keyboard to work smoothly unless I remove bottom plate
First of all, does anybody know what causes this problem?
Second, do you think this could be solved by using spacers greater than 10 mm, or is the problem deeper than that?
It sounds like the Teensy may be shorting out some connections - if the USB port is touching one of the wires, that will probably cause some issues. Do you have everything around there insulated well? Electrical tape or a dab of hot glue work pretty well.
Potentially dumb question here. Okay, I keep having this issue on the Planck when I ratchet down the plate screws. Everything works fine before I put the bottom plate on. Whenever I put the bottom plate on and tighten the screws, the Teensy puts pressure on Column 2 and causes multiple key presses. I have the Teensy wedged between Columns 2 and 3, and it has broken a couple solder joints. I have repaired those joints, yet when I re-insert the screws, I still have problems, even with improved solder joints. I have kept the screws a little loose, to no avail.
TL;DR Column 2 under the Teensy keeps malfunctioning with tightened plates, can't seem to get keyboard to work smoothly unless I remove bottom plate
First of all, does anybody know what causes this problem?
Second, do you think this could be solved by using spacers greater than 10 mm, or is the problem deeper than that?
It sounds like the Teensy may be shorting out some connections - if the USB port is touching one of the wires, that will probably cause some issues. Do you have everything around there insulated well? Electrical tape or a dab of hot glue work pretty well.
I've got electrical tape all around. I'm also quite sure that the USB port is not touching wires, unless something is poking through the tape.
Like I said, no problems with bottom plate off. With a tight bottom plate, Column 2 issues persist.
I think that I will just try some 12 mm standoffs, give the Teensy some more breathing room, and see how that works.
Ahh. Yeah, 12mm standoffs would work. Can you send pics of the area? You're placing the Teensy USB port side towards the top plate, right?
Nice!
Will there be a milled bottom for the Atomic in the future too?
Gorgeous ! :thumb:
Is there any plan to open source the scad files ?
I started to build my keyboard (yaolk60, subatomic grid like but with the middle column empty). I had problems with my laser cutted case [1]. I'm not sure if my second try will be a thicker laser cutted case or a 3D printed one. If I go for 3D printing, I could contribute to the atomic sized case :)
[1] : tried 1.5 mm, but my laser shop has not the right material in this thickness, way too flexible, could almost roll into a circle
What's your case construction like? Are you using plastic? Btw, I think the Atomic PCB is gonna be nearly compatible with your yaolk60 layout!Good news for the PCB ! Do you know if the shipping fee would be different from a plate ? The shipping cost to france for the plate are 1.5× the price of the plate :-(
Such a nice little keyboard at a reasonable price.
Is anyone using this as a daily driver at work?
Such a nice little keyboard at a reasonable price.
Is anyone using this as a daily driver at work?
I used the Planck for most of this week at work. I work mostly with letters rather than numbers or symbols, so it's not much of a problem right now. But having most of the letters and symbols on the function layer is slowing my productivity when I need to use those.
I think if I had to do more numeric input, I might need a numpad alongside the Planck.
I picked up a a nice Filco 10 key to go with my poker 2 and then found that my need for it is extremely limited. It gets dusty.
I find that only real annoyance I have with the 60% format is the forced choice between a having a winkey OR having an pkey on both sides.
I would like to use the winkey often enough that it is a pain in the ass not to have it and I use the FKeys while typing and like to use the correct finger to reach for it.
Having a pkey on either side would be a definite for numbers and FKeys on separate layers.
In my current role I write a lot of documents and definitely prefer the Poker to my previous TKL Logitech Dinovo Edge. The edge was a more beautiful board with unlimited features and bluetooth. (I miss the bluetooth) but the cherry browns and the form factor of the poker are a better typing experience.
It seems like reducing the reach to the number keys and integrating them into the qwerty row is if anything more ergonomic once you have adapted. I find the high reach on for numbers often takes me off my home row position. I'm not as convinced that ortho-linear layout is advantageous. With my hands set closely together when typing on these small boards my wrists are at a almost a 45 degree angle from parallel. The standard angles of the keyboard layout are fairly natural. If the keys were linear and set at the natural angle of the wrist (give or take) it might have some merit (hard to tell irl). Set straight up and down however it almost looks uncomfortable without splitting the board in half.
thoughts?
I'm looking at grabbing Granite for my future semi-standard Atomic with milled bottom + pcb. Unfortunately the available keysets aren't very compatible with the Atomic layout. I can cover like 90% of the board with the common set and the modifiers, but I'm not too keen on shelling out another $25 for the Pro Modifiers set just so I can tick three more keys off, so I'd probably just get the Blank set. However then I'm still lacking another 2u key!
What should I do? get any extras from SP directly?
I'm looking at grabbing Granite for my future semi-standard Atomic with milled bottom + pcb. Unfortunately the available keysets aren't very compatible with the Atomic layout. I can cover like 90% of the board with the common set and the modifiers, but I'm not too keen on shelling out another $25 for the Pro Modifiers set just so I can tick three more keys off, so I'd probably just get the Blank set. However then I'm still lacking another 2u key!
What should I do? get any extras from SP directly?
I noticed this and was disappointed as well. But, it looks like there's talk about adding extra kits. I wouldn't be surprised if they did, looking at the money train behind this set right now.
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/31f01m/granite_keycaps_now_available_on_massdrop/cq1pwld
It would have been nice if they made a Granite Planck kit. But maybe it's better for my wallet that they didn't...
On a separate note, I neglected to order a 2u stab with my planck kit. Is anyone else using the 2 unit space bar without the stabilizer?
I zipped up the files (solidworks 2013 and stl) for my current 3-part atomic case (held together with press fit 1/8" dowel pins between the sections). One of the files is just a solid one part version although it still has the pin holes inside. I'm still not sure that the screw holes are 100% accurately placed but seemed to work out okay. I used some very tiny wood screws which I carefully self-tapped into the plastic because I didn't have any metal inserts at the time. The STLs have little helper disks and edges which help the parts to stay stuck to the platform when printed on a cheap non-heated-enclosure printer. I press-fit a USB cable into the back center hole after some minor filing, so it does not have a removable cable.
Anyway, still hoping to make a much better version, but figured I'd just post it anyway in case it is a useful starting point for someone - feel free to modify however you want. Happy keyboard building!
Good news for the PCB ! Do you know if the shipping fee would be different from a plate ? The shipping cost to france for the plate are 1.5� the price of the plate :-(
My case construction was 3 layers :Didn't work, the switch plate broke lightly, and the plate bent under each stroke. I tried to replace the spacers with a framing of wood rodes but the switch plate was stil too flexible, and the edge not wide enough for screws.
- 1.5 mm switch plate in a flexible plastic usually used for laser engraving like this (http://www.classifiedmiddleeast.com/wp-content/themes/classifiedstheme/thumbs/422-105-2012-10-17916743.jpg). I designed the plate with 2.5mm edges (9.5 from switch center), before knowing which material my local laser cutter shop had (initialy I planned to use an online shop which have plexiglas in stock).
- spacers similar to yours (no frame)
- 3 mm plastic which looks like see-through plexiglas (to use it to explain how to build a keyboard)
This time the plan is to build a real frame and a plate compatible with it ;D I plan a
My first board is not complete, but I already ordered the gateron for the next one(s).
It would have been nice if they made a Granite Planck kit. But maybe it's better for my wallet that they didn't...
On a separate note, I neglected to order a 2u stab with my planck kit. Is anyone else using the 2 unit space bar without the stabilizer?
Granite basically has full support for the planck. The only thing you are missing is the blank 2u key and fn keys.
- Supports both Cherry MX and Matias/ALPS switch footprints for multiple layouts (click to view all supported) (http://ortholinearkeyboards.com/reference/pcb-layouts). Get the universal top plate to explore all options.
- All components (USB Mini port, diodes, ATMEGA32U4, 470 ohm resistors for keyswitch LEDs, etc) are pre-soldered and it's ready for keyswitches and LEDs.
- Features a reset button for quick programming (milled bottoms have a hole at the precise location of this).
- The standard Planck layout already flashed to unit, but the TMK source code is available (https://github.com/jackhumbert/tmk_keyboard/tree/master/keyboard/planck). Can be programmed by Atmel's FLIP (http://www.atmel.com/tools/flip.aspx).
- Has 5 mounting slots for formed bottom, plate bottom, and milled bottom compatibility. Other mounting holes are for plateless mounting on milled bottom and future cases.
- Remaining pins on microcontroller are pinned-out for easy modding.
still no ALPS caps :[Those would be nice to have!
Is it possible to add a PCB to an existing order (assuming it hasn't gone out already?)I would just place another order and then email Jack and he will refund the shipping. (He refunded mine without me even asking!)
Jack! Mybodyboard is ready for that PCB! :cool:
Thanks! Can't wait to complete it!Jack! Mybodyboard is ready for that PCB! :cool:
One of the best I've seen, sir. Amazing compatibility with that set :cool:
Just finished my planck. :thumb:
Had a hell of a time programing it since it was my first time working with any kind of code tho.
I'm using the keymap that was default in the makefile since i wasn't sure how to change it, but the bottom left key, which looks like it should be RSFT in keymap jack.c, types 'f' instead.
Anyone have any insight as to what could be happening?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dJAyBuQ.jpg)
Jack! Mybodyboard is ready for that PCB! :cool:
Let's do this. :thumb:
Is it possible to add a PCB to an existing order (assuming it hasn't gone out already?)
still no ALPS caps :[
Very nice. Now you have to tell us what it's like to type with.It's quite nice once your fingers stop trying to stagger like on a conventional keyboard.
Just finished my planck. :thumb:
Had a hell of a time programing it since it was my first time working with any kind of code tho.
I'm using the keymap that was default in the makefile since i wasn't sure how to change it, but the bottom left key, which looks like it should be RSFT in keymap jack.c, types 'f' instead.
Anyone have any insight as to what could be happening?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dJAyBuQ.jpg)
This is due to the example macro I have setup in there :) It just presses the CM_T or KC_F key. Scroll down in the extended_keymap_jack.c file to see what it's doing.
Oh ok, I see the KC macro now. I guess it's time to read up on what those do :cool:
Gee, I'd sure love to buy an Atomic PCB and maybe one of those milled bottom plates... :rolleyes:
Gee, I'd sure love to buy an Atomic PCB and maybe one of those milled bottom plates... :rolleyes:
Talk to Jack about reserving one of the Atomic prototype PCBs (with SMD assembly by me) - they'll be ordered this week.
Gee, I'd sure love to buy an Atomic PCB and maybe one of those milled bottom plates... :rolleyes:
Talk to Jack about reserving one of the Atomic prototype PCBs (with SMD assembly by me) - they'll be ordered this week.
Gee, I'd sure love to buy an Atomic PCB and maybe one of those milled bottom plates... :rolleyes:
Talk to Jack about reserving one of the Atomic prototype PCBs (with SMD assembly by me) - they'll be ordered this week.
Small question: Is an atomic full grid option supported by this pcb? Still in love with that idea.
Gee, I'd sure love to buy an Atomic PCB and maybe one of those milled bottom plates... :rolleyes:
Talk to Jack about reserving one of the Atomic prototype PCBs (with SMD assembly by me) - they'll be ordered this week.
Small question: Is an atomic full grid option supported by this pcb? Still in love with that idea.
Yes.
Put together the planck but haven't changed the default layout yet. Wanted to test everything first. All looks good but shift+some of the keys don't register. I'm using karabiner eventviewer to debug. Any ideas. Individually all keys register fine. The keys that don't register with shift, register fine with control for example, like control+k.
HELP!
Put together the planck but haven't changed the default layout yet. Wanted to test everything first. All looks good but shift+some of the keys don't register. I'm using karabiner eventviewer to debug. Any ideas. Individually all keys register fine. The keys that don't register with shift, register fine with control for example, like control+k.
HELP!
You might have a short. Double-check your soldering, also check for damage on any of the traces.
Put together the planck but haven't changed the default layout yet. Wanted to test everything first. All looks good but shift+some of the keys don't register. I'm using karabiner eventviewer to debug. Any ideas. Individually all keys register fine. The keys that don't register with shift, register fine with control for example, like control+k.
HELP!
Put together the planck but haven't changed the default layout yet. Wanted to test everything first. All looks good but shift+some of the keys don't register. I'm using karabiner eventviewer to debug. Any ideas. Individually all keys register fine. The keys that don't register with shift, register fine with control for example, like control+k.
HELP!
So apparently the default firmware on the PCB has issues with some keys and combos. I rebuilt the firmware from source and re flashed and all the keys started working properly. My soldering looked fine and I also did the continuity test on the problematic switches and it seemed fine, so I didn't make any soldering adjustments.
There's still an issue with some key combos, specifically with the fn layers.
Might have to try rebuilding the firmware from scratch using the GH60 code. Sigh. Or try easy avr.
Put together the planck but haven't changed the default layout yet. Wanted to test everything first. All looks good but shift+some of the keys don't register. I'm using karabiner eventviewer to debug. Any ideas. Individually all keys register fine. The keys that don't register with shift, register fine with control for example, like control+k.
HELP!
So apparently the default firmware on the PCB has issues with some keys and combos. I rebuilt the firmware from source and re flashed and all the keys started working properly. My soldering looked fine and I also did the continuity test on the problematic switches and it seemed fine, so I didn't make any soldering adjustments.
There's still an issue with some key combos, specifically with the fn layers.
Might have to try rebuilding the firmware from scratch using the GH60 code. Sigh. Or try easy avr.
Are you using jackhumbert's tmk_keyboard fork?
Perhaps try building without using the "extended keymap" stuff, maybe it's broken and causing the key combo issue.
Any issues with key combos not working would be at a higher level than the /keyboard/planck level, which is just the matrix handling and very orthodox.
Put together the planck but haven't changed the default layout yet. Wanted to test everything first. All looks good but shift+some of the keys don't register. I'm using karabiner eventviewer to debug. Any ideas. Individually all keys register fine. The keys that don't register with shift, register fine with control for example, like control+k.
HELP!
So apparently the default firmware on the PCB has issues with some keys and combos. I rebuilt the firmware from source and re flashed and all the keys started working properly. My soldering looked fine and I also did the continuity test on the problematic switches and it seemed fine, so I didn't make any soldering adjustments.
There's still an issue with some key combos, specifically with the fn layers.
Might have to try rebuilding the firmware from scratch using the GH60 code. Sigh. Or try easy avr.
Are you using jackhumbert's tmk_keyboard fork?
Perhaps try building without using the "extended keymap" stuff, maybe it's broken and causing the key combo issue.
Any issues with key combos not working would be at a higher level than the /keyboard/planck level, which is just the matrix handling and very orthodox.
I am using jack's fork. I tried a couple from the common folder but had other issues. For some reason none of them register the OS key (I'm using OSX). I tried mapping that key to different switches but that didn't help either.
I also don't think this is hardware related. All switches register fine by themselves. I'm using the event viewer included in karabiner to test. Is there another tool I can use maybe?
Jack, did you guys have any luck with the Atomic prototype PCBs?
Awesome. I'd preorder if your site had the option. :D Take my money!Jack, did you guys have any luck with the Atomic prototype PCBs?
I know Wilba did - they're on the way to me :) I'll have photos/news/sales to start soon!
i am using the pcb.Put together the planck but haven't changed the default layout yet. Wanted to test everything first. All looks good but shift+some of the keys don't register. I'm using karabiner eventviewer to debug. Any ideas. Individually all keys register fine. The keys that don't register with shift, register fine with control for example, like control+k.
HELP!
So apparently the default firmware on the PCB has issues with some keys and combos. I rebuilt the firmware from source and re flashed and all the keys started working properly. My soldering looked fine and I also did the continuity test on the problematic switches and it seemed fine, so I didn't make any soldering adjustments.
There's still an issue with some key combos, specifically with the fn layers.
Might have to try rebuilding the firmware from scratch using the GH60 code. Sigh. Or try easy avr.
Are you using jackhumbert's tmk_keyboard fork?
Perhaps try building without using the "extended keymap" stuff, maybe it's broken and causing the key combo issue.
Any issues with key combos not working would be at a higher level than the /keyboard/planck level, which is just the matrix handling and very orthodox.
I am using jack's fork. I tried a couple from the common folder but had other issues. For some reason none of them register the OS key (I'm using OSX). I tried mapping that key to different switches but that didn't help either.
I also don't think this is hardware related. All switches register fine by themselves. I'm using the event viewer included in karabiner to test. Is there another tool I can use maybe?
If you're using the PCB, I did mess up the flashing a few of them early on. The shift problems is one of the symptoms of that. What kind of fn layer issues are you having?
On the OS key - are you talking about Command? It's GUI (KC_LGUI/KC_RGUI) in the firmware, unless you have some Karabiner rebinding stuff.
so i realized that to get the characters on the lower fn layer, the shift key is pressed so that's all working fine actually.
i uninstalled karabiner but still get no command key.
so i realized that to get the characters on the lower fn layer, the shift key is pressed so that's all working fine actually.
i uninstalled karabiner but still get no command key.
You mentioned all of the keys showing up in the OS when testing - are you sure the GUI key is doing that?
You can also check your system preferences under "Keyboard" and "Modifier Keys..." - this is what mine looks like:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WvU9lOB.png)
so i realized that to get the characters on the lower fn layer, the shift key is pressed so that's all working fine actually.
i uninstalled karabiner but still get no command key.
You mentioned all of the keys showing up in the OS when testing - are you sure the GUI key is doing that?
You can also check your system preferences under "Keyboard" and "Modifier Keys..." - this is what mine looks like:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WvU9lOB.png)
the system preferences does look like that.
all the keys show up except the GUI key, even if i remap to a different switch in the firmware. the GUI keypress doesn't show at all in the testing tool. nothing seems to happen.
#define IS_COMMAND() ( \
keyboard_report->mods == (MOD_BIT(KC_LSHIFT) | MOD_BIT(KC_RSHIFT)) \
)
so i realized that to get the characters on the lower fn layer, the shift key is pressed so that's all working fine actually.
i uninstalled karabiner but still get no command key.
You mentioned all of the keys showing up in the OS when testing - are you sure the GUI key is doing that?
You can also check your system preferences under "Keyboard" and "Modifier Keys..." - this is what mine looks like:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WvU9lOB.png)
the system preferences does look like that.
all the keys show up except the GUI key, even if i remap to a different switch in the firmware. the GUI keypress doesn't show at all in the testing tool. nothing seems to happen.
In the firmware, what does your config.h file look like? Specifically, this section:Code: [Select]#define IS_COMMAND() ( \
keyboard_report->mods == (MOD_BIT(KC_LSHIFT) | MOD_BIT(KC_RSHIFT)) \
)
If it's MOD_BIT(KC_LGUI), it would cause the GUI keypress to not pass through the firmware.
Have you tried mapping KC_RGUI to anything?
(http://i.imgur.com/whZ9Ni7.jpg) (http://ortholinearkeyboards.com/atomic-keyboard-kit)Hi Jack
Atomic PCB/other parts are now for sale, and expected in late August! Click the image, or check them out here: http://ortholinearkeyboards.com/atomic-keyboard-kit
(http://i.imgur.com/whZ9Ni7.jpg) (http://ortholinearkeyboards.com/atomic-keyboard-kit)
Atomic PCB/other parts are now for sale, and expected in late August! Click the image, or check them out here: http://ortholinearkeyboards.com/atomic-keyboard-kit
Hi Jack
Can you confirm if the keycap is Dsa laser print?
AW YISS!
Jack, how will the production PCBs differ from the prototypes? Did you guys make any changes?
Jack, you indicated that there were a few prototype PCBs available. Do you think my order will ship this week?
Hi Jack
Can you confirm if the keycap is Dsa laser print?
Keycaps are all blank! Might be able to offer custom laser print/etching in the future, though!AW YISS!
Jack, how will the production PCBs differ from the prototypes? Did you guys make any changes?
Jack, you indicated that there were a few prototype PCBs available. Do you think my order will ship this week?
Had to confirm with Wilba, but it looks like everything on the prototype run was good for production! I'm still getting caught-up with orders, but you're getting one of the prototypes, and your order is marked to ship! :) I should be able to get it out next week!
I received my PCB yesterday, promptly SQUEE'd, and got right to work on it.
Thanks, Jack. This was a lot of fun. I'm diving into the firmware now to figure out how I want the layers setup and tweaking some of the key assignments. This thing is awesome. :D
The Planck is on Massdrop! Orange milled case, 4 new wood middles, and brass plate options!
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/planck-mechanical-keyboard?mode=guest_open
Thanks for your support everybody! Couldn't have made it this far without you :)
Hope you enjoy some of the options we have setup!
The Planck is on Massdrop! Orange milled case, 4 new wood middles, and brass plate options!
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/planck-mechanical-keyboard?mode=guest_open
Thanks for your support everybody! Couldn't have made it this far without you :)
Hope you enjoy some of the options we have setup!
The Planck is on Massdrop! Orange milled case, 4 new wood middles, and brass plate options!
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/planck-mechanical-keyboard?mode=guest_open
Thanks for your support everybody! Couldn't have made it this far without you :)
Hope you enjoy some of the options we have setup!
And milled planck cases, I missed the announcement about these!
Jack is the pbt mandatory when using the universal plate?
I was planning on hand wiring and wanted to be able to top open the switches.
On your site the last row schematic looks like you can't use the universal plate without a pcb.
Hey guys, I have some general dumb questions here. Jack made a custom plate for me that has an extra 3x4 cluster on the right side. I have to hand wire that cluster and connect it to the expansion headers. Although I'm not quite sure how to go about it. I'm wondering if anyone else has used the expansion headers on Planck PCB and can offer some insight.
1. Does it matter which electrical contact the diode is soldered to? On the PCB, the diode is connected to the right contact. I have soldered the diode to the left contact on the 3x4 cluster. Will this be a problem in the functioning of the keyboard?
2. There are holes for the rows on the PCB and I plan to connect my extra rows to the those row holes. Will this work?
3. Where do I connect the extra columns? I was thinking I could connect them the PD1, PD2, and PD3 holes in the upper left of the PCB. Will that work?
Here is a photo to illustrate what I'm talking about.
(Attachment Link)
/*
Copyright 2012 Jun Wako <wakojun@gmail.com>
This program is free software: you can redistribute it and/or modify
it under the terms of the GNU General Public License as published by
the Free Software Foundation, either version 2 of the License, or
(at your option) any later version.
This program is distributed in the hope that it will be useful,
but WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; without even the implied warranty of
MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. See the
GNU General Public License for more details.
You should have received a copy of the GNU General Public License
along with this program. If not, see <http://www.gnu.org/licenses/>.
*/
#ifndef CONFIG_H
#define CONFIG_H
#include "config_definitions.h"
/* USB Device descriptor parameter */
#define VENDOR_ID 0xFEED
#define PRODUCT_ID 0x6060
#define DEVICE_VER 0x0001
#define MANUFACTURER Ortholinear Keyboards
#define PRODUCT The Planck Keyboard
#define DESCRIPTION A compact ortholinear keyboard
/* key matrix size */
#define MATRIX_ROWS 4
#define MATRIX_COLS 15
/* Planck PCB default pin-out */
#define COLS (int []){ F1, F0, B0, C7, F4, F5, F6, F7, D4, D6, B4, D7, D1, D2, D3}
#define ROWS (int []){ D0, D5, B5, B6 }
/* COL2ROW or ROW2COL */
#define DIODE_DIRECTION COL2ROW
/* define if matrix has ghost */
//#define MATRIX_HAS_GHOST
/* number of backlight levels */
#define BACKLIGHT_LEVELS 3
/* Set 0 if debouncing isn't needed */
#define DEBOUNCE 5
/* Mechanical locking support. Use KC_LCAP, KC_LNUM or KC_LSCR instead in keymap */
#define LOCKING_SUPPORT_ENABLE
/* Locking resynchronize hack */
#define LOCKING_RESYNC_ENABLE
/* key combination for command */
#define IS_COMMAND() ( \
keyboard_report->mods == (MOD_BIT(KC_LSHIFT) | MOD_BIT(KC_RSHIFT)) \
)
/*
* Feature disable options
* These options are also useful to firmware size reduction.
*/
/* disable debug print */
#define NO_DEBUG
/* disable print */
#define NO_PRINT
/* disable action features */
//#define NO_ACTION_LAYER
//#define NO_ACTION_TAPPING
//#define NO_ACTION_ONESHOT
//#define NO_ACTION_MACRO
//#define NO_ACTION_FUNCTION
#endif
Does nobody discuss the Planck anymore on geek hack? Has this discussion moved elsewhere to reddit or something? Wtf.
Does nobody discuss the Planck anymore on geek hack? Has this discussion moved elsewhere to reddit or something? Wtf.
It seems to be Jacks preference, yes. See his subreddits:
- https://www.reddit.com/r/olkb
- https://www.reddit.com/r/boardmakers
What files do you need to change? I might be able to help
can you post your matrix.c so I can see what it looks like? it's been replaced in the current firmware.
/*
Copyright 2012 Jun Wako
Generated by planckkeyboard.com (2014 Jack Humbert)
This program is free software: you can redistribute it and/or modify
it under the terms of the GNU General Public License as published by
the Free Software Foundation, either version 2 of the License, or
(at your option) any later version.
This program is distributed in the hope that it will be useful,
but WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; without even the implied warranty of
MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. See the
GNU General Public License for more details.
You should have received a copy of the GNU General Public License
along with this program. If not, see <http://www.gnu.org/licenses/>.
*/
/*
* scan matrix
*/
#include <stdint.h>
#include <stdbool.h>
#include <avr/io.h>
#include <util/delay.h>
#include "print.h"
#include "debug.h"
#include "util.h"
#include "matrix.h"
#ifndef DEBOUNCE
# define DEBOUNCE 10
#endif
static uint8_t debouncing = DEBOUNCE;
/* matrix state(1:on, 0:off) */
static matrix_row_t matrix[MATRIX_ROWS];
static matrix_row_t matrix_debouncing[MATRIX_ROWS];
#if DIODE_DIRECTION == ROW2COL
static matrix_row_t matrix_reversed[MATRIX_COLS];
static matrix_row_t matrix_reversed_debouncing[MATRIX_COLS];
#endif
static matrix_row_t read_cols(void);
static void init_cols(void);
static void unselect_rows(void);
static void select_row(uint8_t row);
inline
uint8_t matrix_rows(void)
{
return MATRIX_ROWS;
}
inline
uint8_t matrix_cols(void)
{
return MATRIX_COLS;
}
void matrix_init(void)
{
// To use PORTF disable JTAG with writing JTD bit twice within four cycles.
MCUCR |= (1<<JTD);
MCUCR |= (1<<JTD);
#ifdef BACKLIGHT_ENABLE
backlight_init_ports();
#endif
// Turn status LED on
DDRE |= (1<<6);
PORTE |= (1<<6);
// initialize row and col
unselect_rows();
init_cols();
// initialize matrix state: all keys off
for (uint8_t i=0; i < MATRIX_ROWS; i++) {
matrix[i] = 0;
matrix_debouncing[i] = 0;
}
}
uint8_t matrix_scan(void)
{
#if DIODE_DIRECTION == COL2ROW
for (uint8_t i = 0; i < MATRIX_ROWS; i++) {
select_row(i);
_delay_us(30); // without this wait read unstable value.
matrix_row_t cols = read_cols();
if (matrix_debouncing[i] != cols) {
matrix_debouncing[i] = cols;
if (debouncing) {
debug("bounce!: "); debug_hex(debouncing); debug("\n");
}
debouncing = DEBOUNCE;
}
unselect_rows();
}
if (debouncing) {
if (--debouncing) {
_delay_ms(1);
} else {
for (uint8_t i = 0; i < MATRIX_ROWS; i++) {
matrix[i] = matrix_debouncing[i];
}
}
}
#else
for (uint8_t i = 0; i < MATRIX_COLS; i++) {
select_row(i);
_delay_us(30); // without this wait read unstable value.
matrix_row_t rows = read_cols();
if (matrix_reversed_debouncing[i] != rows) {
matrix_reversed_debouncing[i] = rows;
if (debouncing) {
debug("bounce!: "); debug_hex(debouncing); debug("\n");
}
debouncing = DEBOUNCE;
}
unselect_rows();
}
if (debouncing) {
if (--debouncing) {
_delay_ms(1);
} else {
for (uint8_t i = 0; i < MATRIX_COLS; i++) {
matrix_reversed[i] = matrix_reversed_debouncing[i];
}
}
}
for (uint8_t y = 0; y < MATRIX_ROWS; y++) {
matrix_row_t row = 0;
for (uint8_t x = 0; x < MATRIX_COLS; x++) {
row |= ((matrix_reversed[x] & (1<<y)) >> y) << x;
}
matrix[y] = row;
}
#endif
return 1;
}
bool matrix_is_modified(void)
{
if (debouncing) return false;
return true;
}
inline
bool matrix_is_on(uint8_t row, uint8_t col)
{
return (matrix[row] & ((matrix_row_t)1<col));
}
inline
matrix_row_t matrix_get_row(uint8_t row)
{
return matrix[row];
}
void matrix_print(void)
{
print("\nr/c 0123456789ABCDEF\n");
for (uint8_t row = 0; row < MATRIX_ROWS; row++) {
phex(row); print(": ");
pbin_reverse16(matrix_get_row(row));
print("\n");
}
}
uint8_t matrix_key_count(void)
{
uint8_t count = 0;
for (uint8_t i = 0; i < MATRIX_ROWS; i++) {
count += bitpop16(matrix[i]);
}
return count;
}
static void init_cols(void)
{
int B = 0, C = 0, D = 0, E = 0, F = 0;
#if DIODE_DIRECTION == COL2ROW
for(int x = 0; x < MATRIX_COLS; x++) {
int col = COLS[x];
#else
for(int x = 0; x < MATRIX_ROWS; x++) {
int col = ROWS[x];
#endif
if ((col & 0xF0) == 0x20) {
B |= (1<<(col & 0x0F));
} else if ((col & 0xF0) == 0x30) {
C |= (1<<(col & 0x0F));
} else if ((col & 0xF0) == 0x40) {
D |= (1<<(col & 0x0F));
} else if ((col & 0xF0) == 0x50) {
E |= (1<<(col & 0x0F));
} else if ((col & 0xF0) == 0x60) {
F |= (1<<(col & 0x0F));
}
}
DDRB &= ~(B); PORTB |= (B);
DDRC &= ~(C); PORTC |= (C);
DDRD &= ~(D); PORTD |= (D);
DDRE &= ~(E); PORTE |= (E);
DDRF &= ~(F); PORTF |= (F);
}
static matrix_row_t read_cols(void)
{
matrix_row_t result = 0;
#if DIODE_DIRECTION == COL2ROW
for(int x = 0; x < MATRIX_COLS; x++) {
int col = COLS[x];
#else
for(int x = 0; x < MATRIX_ROWS; x++) {
int col = ROWS[x];
#endif
if ((col & 0xF0) == 0x20) {
result |= (PINB&(1<<(col & 0x0F)) ? 0 : (1<<x));
} else if ((col & 0xF0) == 0x30) {
result |= (PINC&(1<<(col & 0x0F)) ? 0 : (1<<x));
} else if ((col & 0xF0) == 0x40) {
result |= (PIND&(1<<(col & 0x0F)) ? 0 : (1<<x));
} else if ((col & 0xF0) == 0x50) {
result |= (PINE&(1<<(col & 0x0F)) ? 0 : (1<<x));
} else if ((col & 0xF0) == 0x60) {
result |= (PINF&(1<<(col & 0x0F)) ? 0 : (1<<x));
}
}
return result;
}
static void unselect_rows(void)
{
int B = 0, C = 0, D = 0, E = 0, F = 0;
#if DIODE_DIRECTION == COL2ROW
for(int x = 0; x < MATRIX_ROWS; x++) {
int row = ROWS[x];
#else
for(int x = 0; x < MATRIX_COLS; x++) {
int row = COLS[x];
#endif
if ((row & 0xF0) == 0x20) {
B |= (1<<(row & 0x0F));
} else if ((row & 0xF0) == 0x30) {
C |= (1<<(row & 0x0F));
} else if ((row & 0xF0) == 0x40) {
D |= (1<<(row & 0x0F));
} else if ((row & 0xF0) == 0x50) {
E |= (1<<(row & 0x0F));
} else if ((row & 0xF0) == 0x60) {
F |= (1<<(row & 0x0F));
}
}
DDRB &= ~(B); PORTB |= (B);
DDRC &= ~(C); PORTC |= (C);
DDRD &= ~(D); PORTD |= (D);
DDRE &= ~(E); PORTE |= (E);
DDRF &= ~(F); PORTF |= (F);
}
static void select_row(uint8_t row)
{
#if DIODE_DIRECTION == COL2ROW
int row_pin = ROWS[row];
#else
int row_pin = COLS[row];
#endif
if ((row_pin & 0xF0) == 0x20) {
DDRB |= (1<<(row_pin & 0x0F));
PORTB &= ~(1<<(row_pin & 0x0F));
} else if ((row_pin & 0xF0) == 0x30) {
DDRC |= (1<<(row_pin & 0x0F));
PORTC &= ~(1<<(row_pin & 0x0F));
} else if ((row_pin & 0xF0) == 0x40) {
DDRD |= (1<<(row_pin & 0x0F));
PORTD &= ~(1<<(row_pin & 0x0F));
} else if ((row_pin & 0xF0) == 0x50) {
DDRE |= (1<<(row_pin & 0x0F));
PORTE &= ~(1<<(row_pin & 0x0F));
} else if ((row_pin & 0xF0) == 0x60) {
DDRF |= (1<<(row_pin & 0x0F));
PORTF &= ~(1<<(row_pin & 0x0F));
}
}