geekhack
geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: Quackles on Thu, 23 October 2014, 00:19:39
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I recently acquired two IBM Model M keyboards. One of them is working (1987, 1391401) and the other one isn't (1987, 1390131). I use the SDL 6 pin to USB thanks to Orihalcon and it works perfectly on my working keyboard. When I plug it into my broken one the LED's in the top right flash for a second and then turn off. I press keys and nothing registers or works. So I am assuming something is wrong underneath and it could be fixed potentially since the LED's turn on briefly when it gets plugged in initially.
I am a complete novice when it comes to electrical, technical stuff in terms of repairing things. So if I was to open it up, I probably would have no clue what to do or even make it worse! I was wondering if there is anyone in Australia (preferably Sydney) that knows someone who can look at it or perhaps tell me what my best course of action is?
Any help would be kindly appreciated! Thank you.
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All I know is the 131 is an AT protocol board with stiffer springs (and possibly "proper" stablisers on the 2x and larger keys). I'm not sure about compatibility with that particular cable or whether it could require a Soarer's or if there really is a problem with the board. At least it doesn't seem to be a terminal board. Hoping a model M guru will post with more useful info...
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I had the same issue with one of my Model M's. After plugging in the keyboard, the LEDs would flicker but then no keys would register. I solved the issue by plugging in the keyboard to my computer via a powered USB hub like this (http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Hi-Speed-4-Port-Powered-DUB-H4/dp/B00006B7DA) one.
That stirs a recollection of someone saying that the older keyboards, including the Model M, need a lot mower power than modern keyboards, and the USB port might not be outputting enough juice. A powered hub should fix that.
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Thanks for the replies so far guys. I will look into getting a powered USB Hub tomorrow and report back.
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I went and bought this (http://www.arc.com.au/pub.php?pid=41012&p=product) today and plugged it into the computer and power socket. Plugged my other IBM in and it still didn't work. The lights flashed up and then went off as usual. Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks.
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I went and bought this (http://www.arc.com.au/pub.php?pid=41012&p=product) today and plugged it into the computer and power socket. Plugged my other IBM in and it still didn't work. The lights flashed up and then went off as usual. Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks.
If you want to give Soarer's converter a crack, I am in NSW about 30-40 min out of Sydney. You can try it with mine and if it works then you could grab a teensy off the internet and make a converter which is really easy to do.
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All I know is the 131 is an AT protocol board with stiffer springs (and possibly "proper" stablisers on the 2x and larger keys). I'm not sure about compatibility with that particular cable or whether it could require a Soarer's or if there really is a problem with the board. At least it doesn't seem to be a terminal board. Hoping a model M guru will post with more useful info...
I don't think the 1390120 and 1390131 have stiffer springs. Mine didn't at any rate. Also, I think they abandoned the "proper" stabilizers for horizontal keys (only KBs I have with them are model F), on the older Ms, the vertical keys can have wire.
Now, it's true that a lot of the older boards require more power, the ID innovations should be able to power them no problem. I haven't had an issue with any keyboard yet. I don't think a soarer would fix it.
The flash of the lights is usually the keyboard POST. I think it might have a bad controller. Soarer and HID_listen would probably have more info.
So I recommend trying with a soarer converter if you have one available but I think the fix will be to replace the controller.
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All I know is the 131 is an AT protocol board with stiffer springs (and possibly "proper" stablisers on the 2x and larger keys). I'm not sure about compatibility with that particular cable or whether it could require a Soarer's or if there really is a problem with the board. At least it doesn't seem to be a terminal board. Hoping a model M guru will post with more useful info...
Looking back at this now. The delivery came with a thicker than usual cable (AT). Like this one (http://www.clickykeyboards.com/index.cfm/fa/items.main/parentcat/9417/subcatid/0/id/173215). At the time I didn't know what it was, so I decided to buy the USB cable from orihalcon. Would Soarer's Converter make it possible for the keyboard to work with the cable I bought from orihalcon?
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All I know is the 131 is an AT protocol board with stiffer springs (and possibly "proper" stablisers on the 2x and larger keys). I'm not sure about compatibility with that particular cable or whether it could require a Soarer's or if there really is a problem with the board. At least it doesn't seem to be a terminal board. Hoping a model M guru will post with more useful info...
I don't think the 1390120 and 1390131 have stiffer springs. Mine didn't at any rate. Also, I think they abandoned the "proper" stabilizers for horizontal keys (only KBs I have with them are model F), on the older Ms, the vertical keys can have wire.
Now, it's true that a lot of the older boards require more power, the ID innovations should be able to power them no problem. I haven't had an issue with any keyboard yet. I don't think a soarer would fix it.
The flash of the lights is usually the keyboard POST. I think it might have a bad controller. Soarer and HID_listen would probably have more info.
So I recommend trying with a soarer converter if you have one available but I think the fix will be to replace the controller.
G'day
We gave just using SDL to PS2 directly to computer a go today (which I know works with other Model Ms because it is how I use my SSK).
We also tried Soarers, In the excitement I think I forgot HID_listen but I did try keyboard tester and nothing came up. None of the keys worked and I think the big thing was that the lights for the locks would not come on at all.
I don't think the light turning on when it boots is the proper start up as it was only the Numlock (Quackles will have to confirm this, my memory is getting worse) that came on and only for a second. I hope that someone else who has a Model M could confirm the light sequence (is it just one light or all of them and for approx how many seconds). I think that if the lights are wrong for POST, it is a good indication that there is something wrong with the controller.
Has anyone got any other ideas?
If not would any sort of standard controller work (so would the controller for a 401 work with a 131? and has anyone got any ideas as to where to look for a replacement controller. The other path is to use a teensy as a replacement, has anyone got any links to some tutorials/more info for this path (I believe it is just map the matrix, wire it in and apply some firmware and it is the firmware that I would like to read up on).
Any and all help, comments, remarks, opinions, banter and parts offers would be much love.
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I noticed this earlier today: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=65673.0
Although Model M repairs are not mentioned, wouldn't hurt to ask :)
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I noticed this earlier today: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=65673.0
Although Model M repairs are not mentioned, wouldn't hurt to ask :)
You know what, I was looking in another thread and I now have a feeling that we are either talking about the same keyboard or myself and Jersern are trying to do the same thing.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=17458.1260
Can I do this mod on a regular model m with a dodgy connector? I have a spare teensy 2 and a model m with a bad controller so I was hoping this would be the model ms saving grace. If it is possible could someone explain all the details including which usb wire to where on the teensy and how to use the teensy to bypass the bad controller.
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Firstly, thanks fanpeople for trying to help my Model M today. After our conversation today about the teensy and what we did, I discussed it with Jersern after I got home via email. To my surprise (and bad memory) he said he had a teensy and said he can see if setting that up would do the trick.
So yeah, both of you are talking about the same keyboard. I really do appreciate the help both you and Jersern have shown towards me regarding my Model M. Hopefully we can sort it out!
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Firstly, thanks fanpeople for trying to help my Model M today. After our conversation today about the teensy and what we did, I discussed it with Jersern after I got home via email. To my surprise (and bad memory) he said he had a teensy and said he can see if setting that up would do the trick.
So yeah, both of you are talking about the same keyboard. I really do appreciate the help both you and Jersern have shown towards me regarding my Model M. Hopefully we can sort it out!
Sounds good to me hopefully he gets it working, and the Model M can get back to clicking :thumb: