geekhack
geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: ideus on Thu, 30 October 2014, 17:54:51
-
Maybe you already have a custom keyboard with different switches for some keys. If so, it would be great if you can share some ideas, or experiences with this.
-
I will build my Duck Viper as soon as my stabilizers arrive. I am planning clears for the alphas and numbers and blacks for the modifiers. I figured I would try it since I like pressing modifiers with linear switches a little more. I will see how it goes!
-
I have done it a few times on Alps transplant boards when I was short on whatever "primo" switch was being used.
My recommendation would be against mixing tactile and linear unless it was just a few tactiles in certain places such as NumLock or CapsLock where you wanted notification that something had happened.
As far as weight and dampening, that is probably no big deal.
You would notice mis-matched cap configurations much more.
-
I will build my Duck Viper as soon as my stabilizers arrive. I am planning clears for the alphas and numbers and blacks for the modifiers. I figured I would try it since I like pressing modifiers with linear switches a little more. I will see how it goes!
Same here. I prefer linear switches for Ctrl, Alt & Shift since I press them down all the way. I also prefer a linear switch for the spacebar, although I don't always bottom out with it, it just feels better.
-
So, the sliders are all clears, but:
Pinkie finger keys that are not on the home row, have 50gr korean springs, so light-browns; springs from browns under the pinkie finger proper and all ring-finger keys. The key under the forefinger, and all thumb keys (ergodox, so there's more than one) get 100gr springs.
I liked it really a lot, until the I/O expander went belly up.
-
Many OEM keyboards have a heavier switch in the spacebar (my clears have a tactile grey for the spacebar), but I don't think that's exactly what you were asking. I considered swapping out linear switches for the WASD keys once, but then I type much more than I game so it would be really weird when I'm typing those four letters to not have the click and bump.
-
If you include stem, spring, and lube combinations, I had 6 different switches at one time in the same board.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50827.msg1114248#msg1114248
-
For my ergo clear board I put a black switch on the spacebar because the spacebar was really sluggish and would stick. For my board with 65g blue switches I had to put a ~10g heavier spring on the spacebar because it was sluggish as well. Other than that I don't really see a point.
-
i mixed mine in the beginning but ended up changing all to clears with 67g springs
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z4mnCqOxJe8/U-8gSNk893I/AAAAAAAAIeQ/jREqsYyR470/s1600/DSC01618.jpg)
-
Do you think heavier switches should be used for mods and space bar?
-
.
-
For my Duck Eagle, all switches are blues except for a green under the spacebar and a black under the fn key. That way I can know if I'm on fn or the short rshift key.
I think the different switch on fn is helping me to adjust to a new layout, though I can't say if it will be a permanent thing yet. Personally the weight isn't the issue, but that it feels a bit strange to get tactility and then suddenly feel nothing interrupting the travel. It's just something I'm not used to. My 2¢.
-
mixing tactile greys and red randomly yolo
put a cherry super black under my P key just because
jk i cant actually solder, but when i can god have mercy i will make a freak board like which has never been seen
-
Definitely. I'm a heavy typer from years of piano, so I actually find stock clears pleasant. I use 5 weights for my keyboard:
Pinky - 65g Clears
Ring - 70g Clears
Middle - 75g Clears
Index - 80g Clears
Thumb (spacebar) - Tactile Grey
Springs/Slider/Stabilizers lubed for all.