geekhack
geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => Topic started by: azhdar on Fri, 31 October 2014, 10:51:41
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A fellow geekhacker gave me a model M (shoutout to ShriekBob (http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=profile;u=33494) ) .
I want to bolt-mod it , turn it into Azerty (ISO ) and use a teensy for a removable Usb cable .
For the ANSI=> ISO conversion is it really that simple ?
http://imgur.com/a/fmqXG (spare me your ripster comments )
Unicomp can make me a ISO keyset right ?
Bolt mod seems to be pretty simple , any special recommandation/guide for it ?
For the teensy mod , I've no ressource at all about it , do you have a link about it ?
There is a few springs missing (beside the barrels with inserts ) on the keyboard on those spots :
(http://i.imgur.com/zPi0H7e.jpg) ( can't take pictures ultra potato phone )
Is it normal ?
Thanks .
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Bumping because approval bug made it not show into new posts :)
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Yes, in ANSI layout, normal for springs to be missing for some of the keys :
Left Shift
Right Shift
Backspace
Enter
Space bar
Numpad 0
Numpad Enter
Numpad +
All of these, except spacebar, have an insert in the barrel instead of a spring, which the multi-wide key on top uses for stabilization (horizontal key stabs are centered, vertical key stabs are offset). The spacebar barrel is just empty - it helps with stabilization as is.
Yes, Unicomp will sell you an ISO keyset (in pearl/pebble, gray and probably even white). You will have to move the spring from the existing pipe key to the empty location of the existing enter, and you will need an additional spring/hammer for the left shift to split it.
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Yes, in ANSI layout, normal for springs to be missing for some of the keys :
Left Shift
Right Shift
Backspace
Enter
Space bar
Numpad 0
Numpad Enter
Numpad +
All of these, except spacebar, have an insert in the barrel instead of a spring, which the multi-wide key on top uses for stabilization (horizontal key stabs are centered, vertical key stabs are offset). The spacebar barrel is just empty - it helps with stabilization as is.
Yes, Unicomp will sell you an ISO keyset (in pearl/pebble, gray and probably even white). You will have to move the spring from the existing pipe key to the empty location of the existing enter, and you will need an additional spring/hammer for the left shift to split it.
Thanks , very helpful.
Do you know anything about teensy mod ?
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You may find my guide useful:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=62226.msg1451930#msg1451930
Do you know anything about teensy mod ?
Lookup soarers converter. Install it on a teensy, then plug the cables in correctly. VCC to 5v on teensy gnd to gnd on teensy across from it. Data and clock go to the pins mentioned in the documentation. Now your model M is USB, and fully programmable without reflashing.
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we are talking about this thread (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=17458.0) right ?
I'll look into it .
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In my guide I did something like the opposite, approximately ISO-to-ANSI.
Just look at the undersides of the new keys that you want to install, and figure out which barrels do need springs and which ones do not.
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Note that an internal Soarer's convertor will require desoldering the port connector to remove it from the controller so that you can wire the Teensy to the controller. It's not too difficult but if you just want programmability and USB there are external convertors (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=64670.0) with Soarer's firmware built-in.
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In my guide I did something like the opposite, approximately ISO-to-ANSI.
Just look at the undersides of the new keys that you want to install, and figure out which barrels do need springs and which ones do not.
Thanks for this , this will be heplfull
.Note that an internal Soarer's convertor will require desoldering the port connector to remove it from the controller so that you can wire the Teensy to the controller. It's not too difficult but if you just want programmability and USB there are external convertors (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=64670.0) with Soarer's firmware built-in.
I saw that two but for aestethic reason i'll use and internal one .
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Bolt mod is fairly straightforward, if it's your first time you should be able to get it done in an afternoon.
Just be very wary about placement, and try and use a drill press if one is available. I followed Dorkvader's guide, and it was very helpful and easy to follow.
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So after several months, I finally got my parts, but I'm kind of lost about the Teensy part of the mod, I looked at both this : http://straypoetry.com/ibm-model-m-keyboard/
and this : https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=17458.0
My controler looks like this :
(http://i.imgur.com/sSUnZPO.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/OUq0h9N.jpg)
Don't want to mess this thing.
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You can use an external converter and keep the original cable:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=58941.msg1348717#msg1348717 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=58941.msg1348717#msg1348717)
Otherwise, you need to identify the 4 connections: +5V, ground, data, and clock because they are what you connect to the Teensy.
I have never done this with a Model M, but many others have.
If you have a multimeter, you can plug in your existing cable and go pin by pin to see which connection to the controller is activated by which pin on the cable.
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If you want to install an internal Teensy convertor you will have to desolder the SDL port from the controller PCB.
[attach=1]
Once the SDL port is removed you will have to figure out which of the 4 holes are GND, VCC, Data and Clock. Then you will have to wire those 4 lines to the correct holes on the Teensy. After that, you flash Soarer's convertor on the Teensy (or you can do that before hand) and then you should be good to go. Soarer's convertor comes with pretty good documentation that describes the details.
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Once the SDL port is removed you will have to figure out which of the 4 holes are GND, VCC, Data and Clock.
If you have a multimeter, this is probably much easier to do before you remove it !
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If you want to install an internal Teensy convertor you will have to desolder the SDL port from the controller PCB.
(Attachment Link)
Once the SDL port is removed you will have to figure out which of the 4 holes are GND, VCC, Data and Clock. Then you will have to wire those 4 lines to the correct holes on the Teensy. After that, you flash Soarer's convertor on the Teensy (or you can do that before hand) and then you should be good to go. Soarer's convertor comes with pretty good documentation that describes the details.
exactly what I needed, thanks a lot! I guess I need a multimeter now.
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Ok so bolt mod done, plugged the keyboard with the Original connector to try it before atempting the teensy mod (that I haven't totally figured out).
It is powered (led lit up), but none of the keys works.
I have no idea how I could test what's wrong with the keyboard. Can someone bring knowledge?
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I have no idea how I could test what's wrong with the keyboard. Can someone bring knowledge?
(1) Is this a terminal model?
If yes, then it will need a Teensy, or something, under any circumstances. If no, then 2:
(2) Did it work before you took it apart?
If yes, then I would start looking for a wiring/connection problem. If no, then you should not expect it to work now.
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I have no idea how I could test what's wrong with the keyboard. Can someone bring knowledge?
(1) Is this a terminal model?
If yes, then it will need a Teensy, or something, under any circumstances. If no, then 2:
(2) Did it work before you took it apart?
If yes, then I would start looking for a wiring/connection problem. If no, then you should not expect it to work now.
(1) it's not a terminal it's an IBM Enhanced Keyboard similar to the picture in op: http://i.imgur.com/zPi0H7e.jpg
(2) I think I tested it bu I can't remember. It's been a while.
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I have no idea how I could test what's wrong with the keyboard. Can someone bring knowledge?
(1) Is this a terminal model?
If yes, then it will need a Teensy, or something, under any circumstances. If no, then 2:
(2) Did it work before you took it apart?
If yes, then I would start looking for a wiring/connection problem. If no, then you should not expect it to work now.
(1) it's not a terminal it's an IBM Enhanced Keyboard similar to the picture in op: http://i.imgur.com/zPi0H7e.jpg
(2) I think I tested it bu I can't remember. It's been a while.
There are only 4 wires. You probably have power and ground correct if the lights are on.
Is it possible that you reversed data and clock? Remember that the diagrams show the socket on the computer, not the plug on the cable.
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I have no idea how I could test what's wrong with the keyboard. Can someone bring knowledge?
(1) Is this a terminal model?
If yes, then it will need a Teensy, or something, under any circumstances. If no, then 2:
(2) Did it work before you took it apart?
If yes, then I would start looking for a wiring/connection problem. If no, then you should not expect it to work now.
(1) it's not a terminal it's an IBM Enhanced Keyboard similar to the picture in op: http://i.imgur.com/zPi0H7e.jpg
(2) I think I tested it bu I can't remember. It's been a while.
There are only 4 wires. You probably have power and ground correct if the lights are on.
Is it possible that you reversed data and clock? Remember that the diagrams show the socket on the computer, not the plug on the cable.
I haven't done the teensy mode yet, only bolt moded so far.
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only bolt moded so far.
If you have not changed any wiring, then the problem might have been there before you began.
I have never had good luck with repairing or changing Model M controllers. Someone else knows better than I.
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only bolt moded so far.
If you have not changed any wiring, then the problem might have been there before you began.
I have never had good luck with repairing or changing Model M controllers. Someone else knows better than I.
Ok thanks i'll look for solutions.
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I'd suggest disconnecting everything inside the keyboard one by one, and reconnecting them all (all of the obvious connectors). Possibly one of them is not 100% plugged in.
Could you also contact the person who gave you the keyboard to ask if it was working originally?
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I'd suggest disconnecting everything inside the keyboard one by one, and reconnecting them all (all of the obvious connectors). Possibly one of them is not 100% plugged in.
Could you also contact the person who gave you the keyboard to ask if it was working originally?
I'll try that, apparently was working originally :/