Success... I think? SP offers all these sizes in it's DCS Row 4. Will I need to try and pick these up from their overstock section?
Success... I think? SP offers all these sizes in it's DCS Row 4. Will I need to try and pick these up from their overstock section?
I think their inventory is currently closed thanks to the pregnancy of M Petersen? I check monthly hoping to get my 6x space bars too.
That said if you have to rely on Row 4 for your mods it's not a good thing because Row 4 is high and many people have a problem with that if you're going to locate them at Shift or something.
Success... I think? SP offers all these sizes in it's DCS Row 4. Will I need to try and pick these up from their overstock section?
I think their inventory is currently closed thanks to the pregnancy of M Petersen? I check monthly hoping to get my 6x space bars too.
That said if you have to rely on Row 4 for your mods it's not a good thing because Row 4 is high and many people have a problem with that if you're going to locate them at Shift or something.
It's not that much higher is it? I'm away from my board right now but i think the small step up to the mods might be quite nice?
If you will be less picky, there are some old terminal boards that can often be had for cheap such as Wyse, Link, Reynolds, etc. that have 2 units enter and 2.5 units ctrl, but you will have to settle for abs doubleshots.
It probably would be better to redesign... if your goal is to make the board more symmetrical usually a 1.75 enter is used to match the caps lock on the other side, with both shifts as 2.25 and a 1.5 backspace. Those will still be obscure, but not quite as obscure as what you are currently after.
If you will be less picky, there are some old terminal boards that can often be had for cheap such as Wyse, Link, Reynolds, etc. that have 2 units enter and 2.5 units ctrl, but you will have to settle for abs doubleshots.
It probably would be better to redesign... if your goal is to make the board more symmetrical usually a 1.75 enter is used to match the caps lock on the other side, with both shifts as 2.25 and a 1.5 backspace. Those will still be obscure, but not quite as obscure as what you are currently after.
Just to add my geekhack experience.
If you're designing your own keyboard, you will eventually need PCB and casing. You need people's support to get economies of scale. It is incredibly expensive to make just 1 plate or casing.
If you have weird spacings or require hard to get keycaps, it is unlikely that people will support your keyboard. You will just incur higher costs on yourself.
If you're okay with going plateless, a homemade case and single layer PCB is fine and the PCB doesn't have to cost much, especially if you can find a local service to do it.
I made my DIY board by modifying an existing plate (which may also be an option in your case, but it means you may sacrifice the board it came from) and making a case.
If you're okay with going plateless, a homemade case and single layer PCB is fine and the PCB doesn't have to cost much, especially if you can find a local service to do it.
I made my DIY board by modifying an existing plate (which may also be an option in your case, but it means you may sacrifice the board it came from) and making a case.
What are the disadvantages of not having a plate?
Can you post a diagram of your desired layout? You might find http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com a useful resource.
I recommend just using 1.5u keys instead:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/uvMvZlo.png)