You can solder than with some technique, or get some dupont jumpers if there's room. Also make sure the sensor still works (I see it melted a little).
You can just get an IDE connector for HDD or Floppy connector ribbon cable :) Then cut it to size and solder it to the mainboard and daughter board without using wires as joints.Show Image(http://www.cosam.org/images/a1200t/pc_fdd_cable.jpg)
Be cautious while working with ribbon cables - cable inside is just a single strand of thick wire which heats up quick melting the insulation rubber. Perhaps try finding thin cables which have multiple strands of copper wire - this way flux will stay where you need it. Or try using flux while soldering directly to the board.
Getting new ribbon cable should solve the issue of you using uninsulated wires as joints which might cause shorting between each cable and you ending up with dead mouse :)
You can just get an IDE connector for HDD or Floppy connector ribbon cable :) Then cut it to size and solder it to the mainboard and daughter board without using wires as joints.Show Image(http://www.cosam.org/images/a1200t/pc_fdd_cable.jpg)
Be cautious while working with ribbon cables - cable inside is just a single strand of thick wire which heats up quick melting the insulation rubber. Perhaps try finding thin cables which have multiple strands of copper wire - this way flux will stay where you need it. Or try using flux while soldering directly to the board.
Getting new ribbon cable should solve the issue of you using uninsulated wires as joints which might cause shorting between each cable and you ending up with dead mouse :)
Thanks! With proper insulation it should be fine for me to use jumper wires right? Problem is I don't really know which gauge/thickness to get... Is there a specific wire I should get?
You can simply use the wire you show in your second picture. It will work fine. Just try to get the lengths of the pieces about the same as each other (and similar to the ribbon cable length) and only strip a couple mm of insulation off each end.Thank you both! :)
Looking at the photos you posted, there are plenty of traces on that board. It is very likely that a small portion of the trace that was attached to that pad is visible. You can then use some very fine sandpaper or even a needle point and remove the masking on the trace, then just solder to that.
Also I would suggest that you just route the connections with regular wire rather than ribbon cable,that way you can replace individual strands if you mess up.
I can't see any traces in the second pic but in the first one it looks like at least some of them go in straight diagonal lines towards the legs on the far side of the chip - can you see them? You'll need to scratch the blue/black off the thick sections (the thin lines are the dividers) until they go shiny, but be careful as it's not that hard to go straight through. If you stagger your scratches it will be easier not to short two together.
Your mouse isn't dead yet :)
Lovely pics of the PCB that you've got working - at that angle all the traces show up really well.
Unfortunately the pics of the PCB with the lifted pads are at a different angle so it's very hard to see anything. There must be traces on at least one side so you need to try and get them to show up, not an easy task especially when trying to avoid the flash washing everything out :(
Well you have two options - keep trying until you get a pic that shows them (you can enlarge pics so they are better than looking at the PCB itself) or find someone else who has the same model mouse and a multimeter that is willing to take it apart and tell you what the pins are connected to, which you can then replicate. Other than that no-one can help you.
fortunately you don't really need those solder pads you lifted, you can just solder directly to the switches, LED, scroll sensor, etc.
fortunately you don't really need those solder pads you lifted, you can just solder directly to the switches, LED, scroll sensor, etc.
So I have to find out which hole is for which component and just solder them directly to the holes of the working pcb? It's going to be very messy right?
I still recommend getting some high grit wet/dry sandpaper and very carefully removing the pcb mask so that you can see the traces below to solder to. Keep in mind that since you removed the pads on both sides somehow, you will need to make sure that they were not thru holes and if they were, they need to be reconnected.
Does anyone else think that he could connect the points marked TP4, TP5, TP6, etc on both boards and bypass the lifted pads? If the two boards were connected, I believe that each pair of points should be continuous. Thoughts?If there are the same number of TPs on both boards and they connect in a meaningful way to the pins on the working board and the one remaining pin on the broken board connects to the same TP (either 1 or 8) it sounds like it's worth a try. Need more pics!
Wow Frosty, I really want to help you but this is way beyond me.U see, I love ergonomic mouse and am left handed. This mouse was made for me and it costs like 70 sgd so I don't feel like buying another one when this is probably can be saved.
Is the mouse so special? I'm sorry but as a guy who has not gamed nor used mice in a long time I just don't know the difference between an expensive mouse and a standard free optical mouse.
Wow Frosty, I really want to help you but this is way beyond me.U see, I love ergonomic mouse and am left handed. This mouse was made for me and it costs like 70 sgd so I don't feel like buying another one when this is probably can be saved.
Is the mouse so special? I'm sorry but as a guy who has not gamed nor used mice in a long time I just don't know the difference between an expensive mouse and a standard free optical mouse.
How can the Razer Deathadder, which is a right handed ergonomic mouse, be right for you? I am totally puzzled.Perhaps the Deathadder shed it's old skin and grew into a custom, left hand friendly, one? That or his(?) hand is a strange shape and it just works for him, I prefer reverse italic fountain pens and they are usually sold as for left handers (I'm a righty...)
Wow Frosty, I really want to help you but this is way beyond me.U see, I love ergonomic mouse and am left handed. This mouse was made for me and it costs like 70 sgd so I don't feel like buying another one when this is probably can be saved.
Is the mouse so special? I'm sorry but as a guy who has not gamed nor used mice in a long time I just don't know the difference between an expensive mouse and a standard free optical mouse.
How can the Razer Deathadder, which is a right handed ergonomic mouse, be right for you? I am totally puzzled.
How can the Razer Deathadder, which is a right handed ergonomic mouse, be right for you? I am totally puzzled.Perhaps the Deathadder shed it's old skin and grew into a custom, left hand friendly, one? That or his(?) hand is a strange shape and it just works for him, I prefer reverse italic fountain pens and they are usually sold as for left handers (I'm a righty...)
You were going to post some more pics frosty, we can help you fix this. We need a top down of the whole PCB and one at an angle so the shine shows everything nicely for both sides, like the ones you posted of the other PCB. That's 4 pics total :)