nice find on a Japanese g80-11800. don't see those around too much
thing lasered PBT caps on there, originally for Compaq rack mounted KVM setups many years back
look here for more: http://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_G80-11800
denture tabs will clean up the caps some, but the cases on these particular keyboards get quite yellowed, more than others even
So our company decided to clear out some stuff then I see this keyboard and when I tried to press it I immediately knew it was mechanical. When I got home I popped one of they keys out and it's MX Brown but I'm not sure what keyboard this is. Would also love to know how to clean this baby up (keys and casing as well as the trackball) as well as test if all the keys are working. The keycaps I think are pbt (basing it off my hhkb's keycap feel).Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hvFa4Od.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oYMKZ1g.jpg)
The switch type should be MX Browns. I have never heard of a Compaq-branded Cherry G80-11800 that has had anything else. I have heard that some keyboards have thicker 1×1 keycaps than others. All stabilised keycaps should be thick and all keycaps (including the Space bar) are lasered PBT in all versions. The beige hue was originally the same on the case and keyboard and is special for the Compaq-branded boards.
The G80-11800 has a sturdier case than most Cherry G80-series keyboards. It disassembles with a few screws - no snaps. The key switches are on a PCB that is connected via a ribbon cable to the controller PCB under it and the controller is screwed to the bottom of the case.
A few of us have modified our keyboards by removing the trackball and the numeric keypad to make the keyboard smaller. There is a way to cut the ISO and ANSI circuit boards cleanly and not have to reattach any wire, but I don't know about the Japanese layout.
Very lucky find on that Compaq/Cherry G80-11802LPAJA. The Japanese variant is quite rare, please do not even consider cutting it apart mod. I know this one is on few people short list so you could sell it for a good chunk of change.
At least the yellowing appears to be even which is good. It might look just fine after a good cleaning. You can't be afraid to open it and take out the PCBs, it's the only good way to clean a case that dirty so you can scrub on it.
So our company decided to clear out some stuff then I see this keyboard and when I tried to press it I immediately knew it was mechanical. When I got home I popped one of they keys out and it's MX Brown but I'm not sure what keyboard this is. Would also love to know how to clean this baby up (keys and casing as well as the trackball) as well as test if all the keys are working. The keycaps I think are pbt (basing it off my hhkb's keycap feel).Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hvFa4Od.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oYMKZ1g.jpg)
This is Japanese layout with that rare spacebar; do not throw it away or throw any part away! Even if you don't want to keep it, I promise you that someone on geekhack will want it!
Its a name of a project used for cleaning old, yellowed computersMore about bleaching than cleaning. The active ingredient in the recipe is hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) - a kind of bleach. The point of the washing liquid (which also contains bleach) is that it contains TAED which helps H2O2 work at room temperature. You don't want the washing liquid to make the solution foamy.
Awesome find man! It makes me wonder if there are more at your work lying around. If you do end up cleaning it you should post some after pictures, I'm interested to see how it turns out! :))
Nice find buddy!
I'll be cleaning, retr0brighting, and bolt modding a Model M after the holidays (just need that 5.5mm nut driver and some more ingredients). If you need help, let me know. :thumb:
Nice find buddy!
I'll be cleaning, retr0brighting, and bolt modding a Model M after the holidays (just need that 5.5mm nut driver and some more ingredients). If you need help, let me know. :thumb:
Case bodies are not made from PBT, which was what needed the attention really.
Price check thread is the right place to ask really but... Going off the after pictures I would say somewhere around $150.