fascinating.I did not want to use the dip because I thought it would put on to thick of a coat.
I actually have a can of clear plastidip. (not the spray). I was meaning to "dip" some keys into it to see how they'd feel. I never got around to doing it though.
I'm constantly looking for something to coat the tops of my keys with, they can never be grippy enough for me. I've tried all kinds of things (vinyl tape, clearcoat nailpolish, etc). Eventually I forgot about the plastidip idea. Thanks for reminding me ;D
So does it feel grippy? Do they feel smooth and unobtrusive or is it distracting? I wonder how long the coat will last.
Has it affected the sound of the keys?
I've used quite a bit of truckbed liner on speakers and have found that texture varies by distance - usually a light spray from a good distance gave a grainier finer texture. I think temperature made a difference too - hotter gave a smoother texture. Something else to experiment with.
I did not want to use the dip because I thought it would put on to thick of a coat.
As far as how long it will last. Who knows but as easy as it is to do even if it does peal off after a year or so you can always just re-coat them.
The more coats you do affects the feel of the key. A single coat leaves a very nice texture on the key and a really nice feel as well. The three coats I used on the last batch though created a completely different feel to the key. I'm not sure which I prefer most so when I coat the rest of the keys I will very the number of coats to see what I like best.
true, it would be thick, altho supposedly there is a way to 'thin' it. i think the instructions for that are on the label of the can, tho i havent looked at it in a while.Yes they sell a thiner for the can version that you can use. But the application they state it is for is thinning for use in a spray gun.
well, clearcoat nailpolish only lasted about 6 weeks, same with vinyl tape which is fairly thick.Yea getting anything to stick to plastic is tough. Maybe it needs to be etched first. I took one of my original test keys and pulled it off on the sides it came off fairly easily but on the top where there is some texture it was harder to get off.
i'd definitely be interested in hearing your thoughts on which you prefer and why.Yea I was thinking the same thing about the single coat but in all reality if the first coat does not adhere well then it will come off no matter how many coats you put on it. So I'm thinking I need to try some type of cleaner or etcher on the key before doing a coat. I'll look into that.
My gut feeling is that one coat wont last very long (maybe about 4-6 weeks?). Three coats may last much longer but as you say the grip level needs to be right since most people probably do a bit of "sliding" too as they type.
I took one of my original test keys and pulled it off on the sides it came off fairly easily but on the top where there is some texture it was harder to get off.
Most items being dip coated do not require priming because the coating is shrinking around the item as it dries. However, in extreme conditions or when adding protective coating to a large metal surface, primer is recommended. Use Plasti Dip® Primer or a high quality acrylic autobody-type primer. Do not use Rust-Oleum® primer as it is not compatible.So I think I'm going to see how the ones without primer hold up first and if they don't I will try to find some acrylic autobody primer and see if that helps.
In my opinion it's hard to improve the texture/look of the Topres. Not as sandpapery as the IBMs. Not smooth matte like the Filco/Das.
I found sandblasting the Unicomp blank blacks was almost perfect since it turned them into that Topre texture and got rid of the gloss. The Logitech sandblasting was an improvement but turned them more into Filcos.I guess what I'm trying to achieve is the Topre texture but with the key having a slightly softer touch and having a little grip to it. The one coated keys are almost perfect. The three coated keys are rougher than I wanted. I think they are rougher because of the way I sprayed them so on the next set I'm going to move a little closer in and see if I can maintain the fine texture I'm looking for but get that slightly softer feel to the key top. The material it self makes them a little more grippy so all I really need to figure out is how to get the texture I want.
Kinda depends on what you are trying to achieve.
I also tried to remove it by just using my finger tip by sliding my finger over it with as much force as I could apply. No matter how I tried I could not get it to come off that way. I'm hopping this means that it will hold up well to normal typing.
I'm finding that the more I type on the three coated ones the more I like them
i think it will hold on, but I wonder about "wear". For instance, in the case of both vinyl tape and clearcoat nailpolish, after a month, basically I "wore thru" it. Just from typing, there were circular areas on tops of the keys where the finger basically just wore thru the coating right down to the key's plastic. So then I had to try to peel off the remaining material.
i might try this on my endurapro keys. I have a feeling I'd like it too. (As ripster said my topre keys arent too bad (I think they have a steep enough curvature that I dont slip on them too much)). I do slip on my endurapro keys though.If you do just watch out for over spray on the key stems. I'm also thinking that spraying a little on the underside may help with keeping it on the keys longer. Just a light coat on the underside to let the rubber get a better grip on the key as it shrinks. I'm thinking a little painters tape on the key stem spray the bottom flip and do the sides and top. Let dry for 30 min. or so then apply another coat but just do the sides and top for follow up coats.
I'm thinking a little painters tape on the key stem spray the bottom flip and do the sides and top. Let dry for 30 min. or so then apply another coat but just do the sides and top for follow up coats.
I think the spray method would work the best, especially if you want to paint the caps en masse. I would set up a mildly adhesive template similar to what Filco does with their blank key cap sets. That way, the caps would be held down as I sprayed, and I can hit them all at once while keeping them in the same order so I know where they go when I'm done.
Ok, I've got my plastidip and a paintbrush and my endurapro in front of me. I'll paint the numpad keys within the next few hours the next time I take a break from work. Lets see how that feels.
I'll try 1 to 3 coats on the different keys.
Double stick carpet tape would work.
For IBMs unfortunately I think it will take a drill bit (see the number row wooden holder mod).
It'll be interesting to see how the dip verses spray works. It would be cool if the dip works because then you can get the "Create your own color kit" and make any color you want.
I have the Red, Yellow, White and Blue spray colors coming but their are other colors that I think would look good on a keyboard.
This is getting too complicated. Just dunk the whole keyboard in.Show Image(http://www.plastidip.com/inc/displayImage.php?src=new_ind_5_gallon_plasti_dip.jpg&w=250&h=250)
Did you try dipping them or are you just painting them with the brush. From the pictures the surface does not look to be smooth and inconsistent thickness. Yea I know I'm nit picking but I am really just wondering.
You can get the clear in spray form as well.
So far the keys with one coat feel grippier than without plastidip of course, but I can still slide my finger a bit as well. Its grippier than either clearcoat nailpolish or vinyl tape. Its not bad.Yes it has some grip but not a bunch. On the three coated ones I have you can still slide your finger on them but it does supply a little resistance.
Also plastidip has a tendency to "roll off" like semi-dried elmers glue (or, a booger ;) unless there is a real thick coat on there. So lets see what 2 and 3 coats feel like.Not to surprised by that seeing that you are only applying it to the top of the key. The majority of the adhesion is caused when it shrinks as it dries. With just the top coated it has no sides to grip to. I can't make mine come off with out cutting it that is. If cut thus releasing the pressure you can roll it off. But even then if you only cut the side the top will still stick on very good.
Ya, clear is really clear. what was the color you used? I thought it was clear, is it white?I used black those first pictures I messed up and took in some kind of gray scale mode so the color is not right. The picture of the keyboard though shows the home row correctly (black keys).
How thick can I apply Plasti Dip®?
When following the directions, you can apply as many coats of Plasti Dip® protective coating as you like. In most uses 10-12 mils thickness is adequate (2 dip coats, 3-4 brush coats, 4-5 spray coats). Only in extreme cases or for aesthetic reasons is more thickness necessary.
Can Plasti Dip® be applied to PVC?
Rub acetone or finger nail polish remover in an inconspicuous area and apply Plasti Dip® to test for success.
Why is the Plasti Dip® sagging or dripping?
Removing an item being dipped too quickly usually causes this. Remove at a rate of 1” every 5 seconds. If experiencing runs or sags when spraying, move can further away from the surface and apply a lighter coat. Sagging and dripping can also be caused by high humidity, high temperatures, windy conditions, and/or direct sun light. Ideal conditions are low humidity, 70 degrees, little to no air movement in a well ventilated area.
Is Plasti Dip® safe to use on children's toys, animal containment, and/or on kitchen utensils?
Plasti Dip® does not contain any heavy metals, and when completely dry, is considered harmless. However, it is not recommended that it be used on items that may be chewed or inserted into the mouth as it may present a choking hazard.
If you decide to take it off I'd try something other than nailpolish remover (acetone). There was a nasty looking Filco key pic here recently.
I take it the nailpolish remover (acetone) melted it. I must of missed that one.
I take it the nailpolish remover (acetone) melted it. I must of missed that one.
On the set I sprayed they are not all that grippy with three coats.
ya, i bet the non-spray paint version is a bit thicker, thats prolly why mine is fairly grippy already with three coats. So maybe the spray version is really better suited for this.
I'll experiment to see if the grippiness fades a bit with use.
That's good - truckbed liner I think is stickier. Here's the poor Filco key after a little fingernail polish so Welly doesn't try it.
That's good - truckbed liner I think is stickier. Here's the poor Filco key after a little fingernail polish so Welly doesn't try it.Show Image(http://t.oomuch.info/src/1249130426113.jpg)
by the way, after 24 hours of drying, the grippiness has subsided a lot. I could probably use the 3-coat keys just fine now. THey do feel better.
Btw also the coat doesnt seem to be slipping off despite my not having painted all the way to the bottom of the key.Interesting all the ones that I have actually pulled the stuff off on had only been cured for maybe 5 hours. I will let them sit for another day and see how hard it is to get off. That means the Plasti dip will have been on for about 3 days.
I still wonder whether it will "wear down" fast though. I hope not. It feels great.I with you there I really like the feel of it. And I'm leaning in the direction of 3 heavy coats myself. The lighter coats are not quite as grippy but still feel fine. Actually those last keys I did feel very close to what a normal Topre key feels like but not as slick just slightly grippy.
Does anyone with a little Plastidip leftover feel adventurous enough to try this on a Model M spring? I wonder how this would change noise and feel of a buckling spring switch.Yes, I got Ripster into dipping them but the results were poor. He basically dipped half of it, leaving a thin layer of plastic.
Thanks rdjack21 and JBert!
Actually I just found a new, revolutionary and sophisticated method to silence my ultra-springy 1397000: A snippet of an ordinary thin rubber band, simply dropped in the spring, seems to work well.
Sure - use Novus stuff ALL the time. But they have the OPPOSITE effect. Makes the keys nice and shiny.
I'll post Wet&dry sandpaper results sometime.
Ok, here is the story behind it... Last time I went to the DIY store I noticed they also have a "super fast drying" variant of the cans I usually get. Now, after painting some things with it, I noticed that the surfaces around it, which were not directly hit, got some unusual sandstone alike texture... I experimented around, and it seems that if you apply this paint from some range, so that it rains down as "mist" instead of a direct stream, you get this kind of texture... (As it doesn't work with normal spray-paint, my theory is that this paint dries so fast that the globules they form while drizzling down can no more "melt" on the surface). Well, next on the list was experimenting with finishings, like applying a thin layer of normal spray-paint afterward, to lower the roughness and raise the durability, like on the spacebar I posted... Still working on all this stuff, so stay tuned! ^^
Can't seem to find a local store that carries this product...think I've mentioned this before...
Can anyone describe exactly what the stuff is? Like..."Kleenex" is a brand of "facial tissues"..."Plasti Dip" is a brand of what?
Ok, here is the story behind it... Last time I went to the DIY store I noticed they also have a "super fast drying" variant of the cans I usually get. Now, after painting some things with it, I noticed that the surfaces around it, which were not directly hit, got some unusual sandstone alike texture... I experimented around, and it seems that if you apply this paint from some range, so that it rains down as "mist" instead of a direct stream, you get this kind of texture... (As it doesn't work with normal spray-paint, my theory is that this paint dries so fast that the globules they form while drizzling down can no more "melt" on the surface). Well, next on the list was experimenting with finishings, like applying a thin layer of normal spray-paint afterward, to lower the roughness and raise the durability, like on the spacebar I posted... Still working on all this stuff, so stay tuned! ^^
which paint were you using?
Genius PRO - Universal Sprühlack - Schwarz / Seidenmatt / Schnelltrocknend
Link for a US buyer. Can't find anything on google. I googled Genius PRO Universal Sprühlack.
Thanks btw and those keys look the best here!
This is the stuff I was talking about. Rubberized and textured. If you spray it in cold temperature it's quite grainy. If you spray in hot temperatures it flows smoother, more pebbly. Haven't tried it on keys though.
I hand built 5 of these for PC surrounds. The MDF angle cuts were the trickiest part.Show Image(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4149/5182954409_4f9a0eddaa_b.jpg)