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geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => Topic started by: Melvang on Sun, 15 February 2015, 01:15:50
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Has anyone here done any electrolysis for cleaning rust and paint from IBM F plates? I am thinking this might be the ideal way to clean them as it is essentially zero abrasive, aside from a bit of scotchbrite or 3M pad afterward.
Just wondering if anyone had any insights or tips for doing F plates.
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Has anyone here done any electrolysis for cleaning rust and paint from IBM F plates? I am thinking this might be the ideal way to clean them as it is essentially zero abrasive, aside from a bit of scotchbrite or 3M pad afterward.
Just wondering if anyone had any insights or tips for doing F plates.
I'm not sure if electrolysis would work as well as a pad of steel wool, but it could be worth a try.
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I imagine it would work, but I also think it would take a long time (assuming you are wanting to completely remove the original finish).
The only items do this with myself are old cast iron skillets.
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If you can bring yourself to push the plastic tabs out of their holes, anything else you do to the plate is easy and non-threatening.
You probably can't re-install more than 80%-90% of them properly, but for the last few F-122s I have done, I have put zero, none, of them back. With the "washer" mod or new homemade M-size tabs for the space bar, and barrel inserts, you don't need the wire stabilizers at all for any other key.
They can be re-installed, and it is not too hard, but 2 things can happen: the plastic can crack, or too much of the "flare" on the underside will be stripped off when you remove them and there is not enough to hold them back in place.
None of this has anything to do with your question. I use fine sandpaper and spray Rustoleum.
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Electrolysis, no... I don't have the equipment for that. But it is an interesting idea... though I have no idea if it'd work as I'm not an expert in that.
Naval Jelly (basically concentrated phosphoric acid with a gel-like binder) I do recommend. Fantastic rust remover. It WILL strip the paint that IBM used on my AT model F, so, you know, only use it if that's your intent- which it seems like it is. Much less elbow grease than abrasives, and it won't damage the non-oxidized steel or plastic if used as directed.
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Electrolysis, no... I don't have the equipment for that. But it is an interesting idea... though I have no idea if it'd work as I'm not an expert in that.
Naval Jelly (basically concentrated phosphoric acid with a gel-like binder) I do recommend. Fantastic rust remover. It WILL strip the paint that IBM used on my AT model F, so, you know, only use it if that's your intent- which it seems like it is. Much less elbow grease than abrasives, and it won't damage the non-oxidized steel or plastic if used as directed.
Yeah paint and rust removal is what I am looking for and hoping that I can save the plastic inserts without having to remove them in case I want to go back to a stock layout. I don't see that electolysis will damage the plastic either as you are using a plastic tank for the bath. I did buy some washing soda for a sodium carbonate source today. Doesn't take much, only a half tablespoon for each gallon of water.
Next question. On the topic of power source, I see a lot of people using laptop chargers. Batter chargers are popular but they have to be "dumb" not automatic, or you run the risk of them shutting off due to not detecting a battery. I am planning on measureing the ohms between the sacrifical plates and the part to be cleaned. What should I be looking for to be "safe" to not burn up the charger?
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For the record this was the youtube video I am taking most of my info from.
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You should talk to phosphorglow. He was telling me about using things like citric acid to clean the plates in Ms. I unfortunately don't have much more information about it but I know if you PM or contact him on his website, he's a friendly guy :).
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Next question. On the topic of power source, I see a lot of people using laptop chargers. Batter chargers are popular but they have to be "dumb" not automatic, or you run the risk of them shutting off due to not detecting a battery. I am planning on measureing the ohms between the sacrifical plates and the part to be cleaned. What should I be looking for to be "safe" to not burn up the charger?
It is best if you can use one of those old school full size self rolling battery chargers, as they are manual and will just 'run'. But, you can get by fine with an automatic charger, it will just take a lot longer (think days). You may need a depleted battery to get the automatic charger running though.
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Has anyone here done any electrolysis for cleaning rust and paint from IBM F plates? I am thinking this might be the ideal way to clean them as it is essentially zero abrasive, aside from a bit of scotchbrite or 3M pad afterward.
Just wondering if anyone had any insights or tips for doing F plates.
From a physics/electrochemistry perspective I would not recommend electrolysis on a model F plate. The reason is that it is comprised of several different coatings already, which you will likely damage if you try electrolysis
I don't know exactly what's in it rather than the steel core and the zinc coating. Being a much more active metal, the zinc takes the heat instead of the steel, protecting it. A similar concept is used in ships to prevent the hulls from corroding (though they usually use magnesium or another active metal, IIRC).
It would work great for a newer model M plate though. I knew that 16V 10A PSU would come in handy some day!
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You should talk to phosphorglow. He was telling me about using things like citric acid to clean the plates in Ms. I unfortunately don't have much more information about it but I know if you PM or contact him on his website, he's a friendly guy :).
I was going to say the same thing. I think that he may have started playing around with electrolysis.