geekhack
geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: Novus on Thu, 19 February 2015, 17:13:40
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Congrats, you've descended into wallethack and you've spent your hard earned money on a new keyboard. Even if you like this new board that you've bought, tell the next person why they shouldn't (was it over-hyped,bad value, ping, rattle etc?) buy it.
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Don't buy an AT101W, unless you plan to replace the switches or use it for the mounting plate.
The 101W's black Alps suck.
(thankfully, mine was free - I'm just spreading the word that no one should pay more than $0.00 on one.)
I have since started going through the switches and removing the tactile plates to see if I can make a nice linear switch.
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Don't buy an SSK.
Model Fs just make these things feel like ****e.
I just feel silly for spending so much on a board that doesn't get used often at all.
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Don't buy an HHKB, sometime the tactility gets annoying.
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Don't buy an SSK.
Model Fs just make these things feel like ****e.
I just feel silly for spending so much on a board that doesn't get used often at all.
Well, if you don't want yours... I'll trade my AT101W and a few dollars for your SSK ;)
I haven't been spoiled by a Model F yet, so it'll be okay for me.
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Don't buy a 360 Corsa.
You have to, like, assemble it all yourself.
It doesn't even come with switches
And it uses some weird cable (it's not USB idk what it is)
Plus shipping from Korea was so expensive :'( :'(
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Don't buy a KB Paradise v60 MTS. If you have to switch to a full size your fingers will be in the wrong place, and it's Matias so there are many fewer keycaps available. It's not PBT so you'll end up swapping it out for something that has PBT caps anyway, because even if you find Matias compatible caps they won't have the correct fn layer legends.
Plus the v80 TKL MTS is on its way and that's probably what you really wanted all along.
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Don't buy a GH60, you'll wait two years or more to get a board that's not even all that great anymore.
Also, don't buy a Kingsaver. Alps are awesome, but caps for it are practically impossible to find and TKL is inferior to 60%.
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Don't buy that keyboard that nubbinator made...oh, wait. ;)
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Also, don't buy blue ALPS. Just give them all to me. ;D
Although seriously, be careful how much you pay for a blue ALPS keyboard. After all, you are pretty much paying for just the switches.
Anything over $100 is quite steep and even though I paid much, much more than that for mine, I still recommend being patient as it isn't worlds apart from other clicky switches.
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Don't get a IBM Model M, waiting for the ps2 adapter is infuriating and some of the top key caps(What do you gall the ones over the stem??) can be slightly mis aligned.(At least on mine) It annoys the ***p out of me. :D
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don't buy an mx green board because they are just a little heavier than blues. they are like 3x as heavy.
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Don't buy that keyboard that nubbinator made...oh, wait. ;)
I promise I won't ruin your credit, just ding it a little. And I'll be signing you up for those GBs you were going to do anyways.
About to go make some posts as swill, BRB.
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Don't buy a B87. it... uh... took a while to get here...
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Don't buy the KBT Race S if you want to use keycap sets.
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Because they can't? After all it's yours. What a silly question!
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Don't buy a WASD Code, Costar stabilizers are Satan.
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i haven't bought a keyboard in like 2 years now
wolf why do you always make threads that exclude me :(
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Don't buy a Ducky Mini, you'll break your floor if you drop it.
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Don't buy a CM QFR because no keyboard under 300 dollars is worth buying. Anything below that price point is ****e.
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My first board was a Rapoo KX. It has a metal plate, which you have to keep off to use aftermarket caps. Backlighting is uneven, and has a really weird layout. But it was 50 bucks so.......... :-\
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Don't buy that keyboard because they might run out of stock if you do. Then I won't be able to by another.
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don't buy a pure pro
it's **** all around
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Don't buy the KBT Race S if you want to use keycap sets.
Any Race for that matter...That's the only downfall of that board. Love mine to death though. Wouldn't be trying to sell it if it wasn't for the TX1800
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Don't buy the KBT Race S if you want to use keycap sets.
Any Race for that matter...That's the only downfall of that board. Love mine to death though. Wouldn't be trying to sell it if it wasn't for the TX1800
Any board that can't be fitted with a winkey + tsangan set really.
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so basically, just dont buy anything.
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so basically, just dont buy anything.
Only way to stop the wallethack.
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Don't buy a KMAC 1.2 just to have a KMAC 1.2.. there are better quality Korean customs out there now. And don't buy a ****ing Race because it's not fully programmable or compatible with custom keycaps.
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Don't buy a KMAC 1.2 just to have a KMAC 1.2.. there are better quality Korean customs out there now. And don't buy a ****ing Race because it's not fully programmable or compatible with custom keycaps.
I just don't get the whole KR boards thing, seems like it's more about exclusivity than keyboards at this point.
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I just collect ones that are blue. Maybe pink. Thats why I don't really want this KMAC I just happen to have it.
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Don't buy a KMAC 1.2 just to have a KMAC 1.2.. there are better quality Korean customs out there now. And don't buy a ****ing Race because it's not fully programmable or compatible with custom keycaps.
I just don't get the whole KR boards thing, seems like it's more about exclusivity than keyboards at this point.
They're like.. metal and stuff.
Until there is a good GH custom, I'll continue salivating over them.
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Don't buy a KMAC 1.2 just to have a KMAC 1.2.. there are better quality Korean customs out there now. And don't buy a ****ing Race because it's not fully programmable or compatible with custom keycaps.
I just don't get the whole KR boards thing, seems like it's more about exclusivity than keyboards at this point.
They're like.. metal and stuff.
Until there is a good GH custom, I'll continue salivating over them.
Didn't you make your own for this purpose...
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Don't buy Das Keyboard Model S! The space-bar might be crappy which ruins the entire keyboard.
Sifo can testify
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Don't buy a modern Cherry G80 (unless it's for switch harvesting). They're flimsy, bendy, feel bad to type on, have a 2KRO matrix and the keycaps are thin and often lasered off-centre. Also, they're physically massive, yet light.
Can't think of any reason not to buy the two boards I use daily (KBT Pure and GON NerD60 in a Vortex case)... Except, the KBT Pure has the switches mounted the "right" way round, so the LED's are on the "wrong" side for most backlit caps?
Ah yes, don't buy a 60% because Fn keys cannot be positioned in truly useful places on standard layout and it takes about the same effort to move your hand to press the Fn key with your thumb (or hold it down with a pinkie) as it would to move your hand to the arrow and edit clusters... So actually a TKL could still be less effort to use or save the already overworked pinkies from more strain.
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Didn't you make your own for this purpose...
That was my first design. Lots of improvements needed to be made to put it on par with the Korean boards. Maybe I'll do another in the future with those improvements made.
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Didn't you make your own for this purpose...
That was my first design. Lots of improvements needed to be made to put it on par with the Korean boards. Maybe I'll do another in the future with those improvements made.
can I get a link to this? Seems interesting.
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Don't buy a topre board unless you are prepared to buy more topre boards.
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Don't buy a Poker II...
- Nobody will be impressed or want to even hear about it on the internet
- The poker 3 is coming out soon
- The DIP switch options will only get you frustratingly close to the layout you want
- Stupid phrases all over this thing: "Enjoy your feeling" "The keyboard to cheer you up"
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don't buy a poker 2
it's really buggy
the layout is annoying
it has cherry stabs
it's still one of my favourite keyboards, but this is why you shouldn't buy it
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don't buy a poker 2
it's really buggy
the layout is annoying
it has cherry stabs
it's still one of my favourite keyboards, but this is why you shouldn't buy it
Cherry stabs >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>miles ahead of costar
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don't buy a poker 2
it's really buggy
the layout is annoying
it has cherry stabs
it's still one of my favourite keyboards, but this is why you shouldn't buy it
Cherry stabs >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>miles ahead of costar
they feel so mushy and gross, i hate them
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don't buy a poker 2
it's really buggy
the layout is annoying
it has cherry stabs
it's still one of my favourite keyboards, but this is why you shouldn't buy it
Cherry stabs >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>miles ahead of costar
they feel so mushy and gross, i hate them
I only like them more because they are a lot easier to use.
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Don't buy a topre board unless you are prepared to buy more topre boards.
Don't buy a Topre board unless it's a HHKB. The FC660C and CM Novatouch suck and Realforces aren't the best feeling unless you can float, which is tough to do on Topre.
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Don't buy a Ducky Mini, you'll break your floor if you drop it.
I lol'd. They are so heavy and so well made. I honestly don't know who would win between a Ducky Mini and a Model M.
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don't buy a poker 2
it's really buggy
the layout is annoying
it has cherry stabs
it's still one of my favourite keyboards, but this is why you shouldn't buy it
Cherry stabs >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>miles ahead of costar
I think only the modern ones seem to feel good well at least for me
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Don't buy a modern Cherry G80 (unless it's for switch harvesting). They're flimsy, bendy, feel bad to type on, have a 2KRO matrix and the keycaps are thin and often lasered off-centre. Also, they're physically massive, yet light.
I got a modern Cherry G80 (MX Black) for almost nothing. Cleaned it, lubed it and replaced the thin PBT caps with thick PBTs. It now feels, at least to me, even better than the QFR (MX Black). Too bad I cannot use boards bigger than TKL anymore.
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Last keyboard purchase was the 360c. Dont buy it if you cant assemble it yourself :)) Also I am certain that aluminum plates suck, mine bent all over the place just trying to install switches.
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Don't buy a HHKB. There's a non-trivial risk that 55g keys will hurt your fingers (be it Topre in Pro, or Chicony rubber dome in Lite), the USB hub in HHKB 2 is a gimmick, the embedded navigation layer is stupid (goes more or less in the opposite direction than staggering) and it's barely any smaller than a 75% keyboard... overall, an overpriced luxury item that only gives you street cred.
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Don't buy a Type Heaven because the "thock" is slightly higher pitched, accounting for $150 of lost value vs. the Realforce, and if you mention it you will get a strained, polite smile.
Don't buy a Matias Tactile Pro because it feels like rummaging through a bucket of legos.
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Don't buy a HHKB. There's a non-trivial risk that 55g keys will hurt your fingers (be it Topre in Pro, or Chicony rubber dome in Lite), the USB hub in HHKB 2 is a gimmick, the embedded navigation layer is stupid (goes more or less in the opposite direction than staggering) and it's barely any smaller than a 75% keyboard... overall, an overpriced luxury item that only gives you street cred.
The HHKB has 45g domes. I've never heard of someone complaining about the HHKB hurting their fingers since it doesn't have a metal plate.
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Don't buy a HHKB. There's a non-trivial risk that 55g keys will hurt your fingers (be it Topre in Pro, or Chicony rubber dome in Lite), the USB hub in HHKB 2 is a gimmick, the embedded navigation layer is stupid (goes more or less in the opposite direction than staggering) and it's barely any smaller than a 75% keyboard... overall, an overpriced luxury item that only gives you street cred.
I can speak to 55g Topre switches. I have a RF 87UB/55-gram KB, and 'me digits' love the 55-gram rubber-cup resistance.
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Another reason to not buy a HHKB is if you can't be bothered/too scared to do a silencing mod. The sound of the clack on the upstroke is the worst.
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Well, that might explain, why the other HHKB I got to use was weird.
Although, the finger pain comes from tactility in my case, never a plate. I had the same problem with MS SideWinder X4 and a couple of other keyboards. HHKB Lite 2 is another offender, even though it's almost the same hardware as Chicony KB-7903, which has an extra metal plate, but somehow doesn't hurt me.
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Although, the finger pain comes from tactility in my case, never a plate.
I would disagree from my experience. I tried a 45g FC660C and the 45g CM Novatouch. Both of them caused pains in my finger since the plate made them overly rigid and the way Topre domes work. The HHKB, on the other hand, has never caused my fingers to hurt.
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Although, the finger pain comes from tactility in my case, never a plate.
I would disagree from my experience. I tried a 45g FC660C and the 45g CM Novatouch. Both of them caused pains in my finger since the plate made them overly rigid and the way Topre domes work. The HHKB, on the other hand, has never caused my fingers to hurt.
I have owned hhkb, and both 45 and 55g rf, and I agree that fingers hurt from it after a while. I might be a heavy typist or something? but then again MX Reds don't hurt my fingers at all... the dome just doesn't feel good for my fingers.
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Custom korean keyboards. Don't get them unless you want to wait to have to ship them off to pay someone else to assemble for yo because you don't have the hardware too. :rolleyes:
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Don't buy a WASD Code, Costar stabilizers are Satan.
Agreed. Don't buy a DAS Ultimate. Costar stabilizers are complete ****e. And the hysteresis on the Cherry Blue's will drive you crazy.
Also, don't buy a Topre Realforce variable. You'll just end up buying a 55g one once you figure out that 55g is the True Oneness with Cup Rubber. Or something like that.
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Although, the finger pain comes from tactility in my case, never a plate.
I would disagree from my experience. I tried a 45g FC660C and the 45g CM Novatouch. Both of them caused pains in my finger since the plate made them overly rigid and the way Topre domes work. The HHKB, on the other hand, has never caused my fingers to hurt.
I have owned hhkb, and both 45 and 55g rf, and I agree that fingers hurt from it after a while. I might be a heavy typist or something? but then again MX Reds don't hurt my fingers at all... the dome just doesn't feel good for my fingers.
I had a 45g 87U, and the key switches did bother my fingers; but my 55g 87UB is fine. I, too, have a couple MX Red keyboards, and the switches are fine, no 'digit discomfort'. But I do wish they had a bit more required down-force. However, Reds have good feel and I like their linear travel. While I disliked the feel of 45g Topres on a Realforce, I've been looking at HHKBs lately and am really interested in one. I tried one for about an hour, and liked it; but it really wasn't enough time to see if the switch would bring about any discomfort.
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Don't buy a Truly Ergonomic. Double keys, missed keys, stuck keys, it has them all.
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Although, the finger pain comes from tactility in my case, never a plate.
I would disagree from my experience. I tried a 45g FC660C and the 45g CM Novatouch. Both of them caused pains in my finger since the plate made them overly rigid and the way Topre domes work. The HHKB, on the other hand, has never caused my fingers to hurt.
I have owned hhkb, and both 45 and 55g rf, and I agree that fingers hurt from it after a while. I might be a heavy typist or something? but then again MX Reds don't hurt my fingers at all... the dome just doesn't feel good for my fingers.
Although, the finger pain comes from tactility in my case, never a plate.
I would disagree from my experience. I tried a 45g FC660C and the 45g CM Novatouch. Both of them caused pains in my finger since the plate made them overly rigid and the way Topre domes work. The HHKB, on the other hand, has never caused my fingers to hurt.
Well, that might explain, why the other HHKB I got to use was weird.
Although, the finger pain comes from tactility in my case, never a plate. I had the same problem with MS SideWinder X4 and a couple of other keyboards. HHKB Lite 2 is another offender, even though it's almost the same hardware as Chicony KB-7903, which has an extra metal plate, but somehow doesn't hurt me.
Although, the finger pain comes from tactility in my case, never a plate.
I would disagree from my experience. I tried a 45g FC660C and the 45g CM Novatouch. Both of them caused pains in my finger since the plate made them overly rigid and the way Topre domes work. The HHKB, on the other hand, has never caused my fingers to hurt.
I have owned hhkb, and both 45 and 55g rf, and I agree that fingers hurt from it after a while. I might be a heavy typist or something? but then again MX Reds don't hurt my fingers at all... the dome just doesn't feel good for my fingers.
I had a 45g 87U, and the key switches did bother my fingers; but my 55g 87UB is fine. I, too, have a couple MX Red keyboards, and the switches are fine, no 'digit discomfort'. But I do wish they had a bit more required down-force. However, Reds have good feel and I like their linear travel. While I disliked the feel of 45g Topres on a Realforce, I've been looking at HHKBs lately and am really interested in one. I tried one for about an hour, and liked it; but it really wasn't enough time to see if the switch would bring about any discomfort.
Some very good reasons not to get a Topre right there... Is this some hidden conspiracy the Topre elite haven't been confessing about in the "I love Topre" threads?
Not trying to troll, just find it disturbing I haven't seen this mentioned before when people have been recommending boards for others.
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Don't buy a keyboard with Cherry MX/Clear/Green's unless you are going to inspect/mod each single switch
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Don't buy a keyboard with Cherry MX/Clear/Green's unless you are going to inspect/mod each single switch
Why not clears or greens? Almost all new cherry switches are scratchy, but whites are the only inconsistent ones brand new.
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Don't buy a keyboard with Cherry MX/Clear/Green's unless you are going to inspect/mod each single switch
Why not clears or greens? Almost all new cherry switches are scratchy, but whites are the only inconsistent ones brand new.
they both have strong springs that ping if they are not gripping their poles, greens additionally have a very audible click, 1.5-2x of blues, however they don't all click that strong, so differences are more easily noticeable
stronger click is good, imo, if you have many switches to choose from beforehand, however if a weak one is soldered to your keyboard, it's not an ideal situation to be in
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Do you mean whites (aka milk whites) or MX clears?
Clears are called "whites" in china, thus our whites called "milk whites over there" there to differentiate between them.
I think that's because they (clears) originally were called whites, by standard long ago, but original whites (MX clears) are a tactile, non clicky switch (65-70g) while MX whites (milk whites) are tactile/clicky and 80-85g.
I love my ducky shine 69; the MX greens are a pleasure to type and FPS game on (but harder than browns if you're playing Action per minute based games), but I may try a full milk white keyboard just because I can (even though I can't tell any difference from the greens, besides the click sound.
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Don't buy a keyboard with Cherry MX/Clear/Green's unless you are going to inspect/mod each single switch
Why not clears or greens? Almost all new cherry switches are scratchy, but whites are the only inconsistent ones brand new.
they both have strong springs that ping if they are not gripping their poles, greens additionally have a very audible click, 1.5-2x of blues, however they don't all click that strong, so differences are more easily noticeable
stronger click is good, imo, if you have many switches to choose from beforehand, however if a weak one is soldered to your keyboard, it's not an ideal situation to be in
I find that most cherry mx switches are inconsistent. Some lots have squeaky springs, some blues / greens will be less clicky than others, and some are more scratchy than others. Some people are more picky than others... so I think some people don't really notice.
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Do you mean whites (aka milk whites) or MX clears?
Clears are called "whites" in china, thus our whites called "milk whites over there" there to differentiate between them.
I think that's because they (clears) originally were called whites, by standard long ago, but original whites (MX clears) are a tactile, non clicky switch (65-70g) while MX whites (milk whites) are tactile/clicky and 80-85g.
I love my ducky shine 69; the MX greens are a pleasure to type and FPS game on (but harder than browns if you're playing Action per minute based games), but I may try a full milk white keyboard just because I can (even though I can't tell any difference from the greens, besides the click sound.
Yes I was talking about clears, I haven't tested milky whites as they are not available generally, greens would be the limit for me, I would certainly test them if I can, I would also like to hear your opinion if you get to test them, espcially if you are checking for the depress/spring pings
I'm currently opening up all the switches in my keyboard and preventing the springs from pinging by modding them (greens), desoldering is certainly very challenging, so I don't suggest doing it unless you have to
awhitedev: yes, that's certainly the case, yet red's for example, don't have any characteristics that might differentiate one from another, so I enjoy reds as they are
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HHKB Type-S
The dampening on the type-s makes the board feel mushy compared to a normal HHKB and detracts from the tactility of 55g. You can easily silence/dampen a normal HHKB with silicone and leather punches for 1/5th the extra cost that's associated with the type-S (unless of course, you proxied from Japan, then the price difference is a little less)
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Don't buy white milk switch with only a few extras for what you need. Bought 140 switches for my lightsaver and yet I still ended up with two switches in the board that has inconsistent click
Buy a lot more if you want the perfect consistent white switch board
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thanks for the advice...haven't seen any negative rubber dome reviews. guess i'll get one of those.
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thanks for the advice...haven't seen any negative rubber dome reviews. guess i'll get one of those.
Except the bunch of posts about Topre (rubber dome!) and the membrane HHKB.
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Don't buy a Truly Ergonomic. Double keys, missed keys, stuck keys, it has them all.
I would add to this, don't be taken in by their 60-day "money back guarantee". They will never get back to you, and there is no way to contact them other than the form on their confusing website. Their customer service is a joke. Unless you are certain you will not want to return this, don't buy it.
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Don't buy a CM Storm TK if you're planning on customizing your Keycaps. The bottom row is 1.5, 1, 1.25, 6.5, 1.25, 1, 1, 1.5. You can probably find some keys that fit but Goodluck finding a 6.5 spacebar. I was lucky enough to stumble upon one of Signature Plastic group buy for Think Different that made a PBT 6.5 spacebar but in light grey. At this point, getting any PBT spacebar is good enough so I shouldn't be complaining that the color doesn't fit my color scheme. Also, if you have a macbook you have to download a program to make the numpad work. Like it's a great keyboard but you have to be open to making compromise for your keyboard.
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Don't buy a CM Storm TK if you're planning on customizing your Keycaps. The bottom row is 1.5, 1, 1.25, 6.5, 1.25, 1, 1, 1.5. You can probably find some keys that fit but Goodluck finding a 6.5 spacebar. I was lucky enough to stumble upon one of Signature Plastic group buy for Think Different that made a PBT 6.5 spacebar but in light grey.
Funny you mention it. Vortex has just announced their PBT&POM doubleshots for that bottom row.
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Don't buy a CM Storm TK if you're planning on customizing your Keycaps. The bottom row is 1.5, 1, 1.25, 6.5, 1.25, 1, 1, 1.5. You can probably find some keys that fit but Goodluck finding a 6.5 spacebar. I was lucky enough to stumble upon one of Signature Plastic group buy for Think Different that made a PBT 6.5 spacebar but in light grey.
Funny you mention it. Vortex has just announced their PBT&POM doubleshots for that bottom row.
(http://i.imgur.com/9umnm.gif)
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Don't buy a B87. it... uh... took a while to get here...
How long?
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Don't buy a B87. it... uh... took a while to get here...
How long?
something like 2 weeks. malaysia post wasn't exactly fast
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Don't buy the v60 mini, unless you enjoy typing on terrible stock keycaps or limiting yourself on any kind of programmability.
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Don't buy a keyboard! Leave this website right away and don't ever come back. Save your money and enjoy it on something more worthwhile.
wish I had the will power to do this myself.. If I wasn't SE I would've left by now
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Don't get any of the 4704 IBM Model Fs. After using them every other keyboard will seem like a cheap trashy toy in comparison.
Don't buy a Kinesis Freestyle 2, you will find yourself very confused at the rubber domes feeling like what MX Browns should and wondering why all keyboards aren't split. (Also, y'know, rubber domes) (OK, I didn't actually buy one, but I've been using one for the moment, so.)
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Because they can't? After all it's yours. What a silly question!
I still like my answer better.
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Don't buy a new Cherry G80-1800. MX Blacks are yuck for typing. The case is pretty flimsy. And even key sets that offer 1800 support don't support the winkey version.
So now I've got to desolder 100+ switches and heavily modify the PCB for a winkeyless layout. I like projects and all, but paying $100+ for a board and having it be basically useless without heavy modification and replacement switches, that's just not cool.
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Don't buy a new Cherry G80-1800. MX Blacks are yuck for typing. The case is pretty flimsy. And even key sets that offer 1800 support don't support the winkey version.
So now I've got to desolder 100+ switches and heavily modify the PCB for a winkeyless layout. I like projects and all, but paying $100+ for a board and having it be basically useless without heavy modification and replacement switches, that's just not cool.
and those 1u keys...
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Duck Viper
Same layout as the HHKB (almost anyway) for about twice the price.
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Don't buy the CM Storm Quickfire Rapid/Stealth. The "braided" detachable cord isn't really braided, the braid is just some rough, patterned coating that makes the cord stupidly stiff and hard to deal with. With the cheap price of this keyboard, plan to buy a custom USB cable from Pexon, Mimic, Zeal, etc. to replace this stiff piece of trash cable.
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Don't buy the pok3r. Case is very cheap and scratches easily
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Dont buy a ISO pok3r
Corus-kb swaped all ISO pok3r with ANSI pokers. Even after the realise their fault, they let you waint Instead of sending you the desired product, they let you wait and wait until they figure out, where you could send the keyboard back. They do not answer how, and when they will return the shipping costs ( to ship the keyboard back). And surely they refuse to send you the ISO pok3r. Probably they gonna send it when you sent the ANSI keyboard.
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Don't buy a 4704 Model F, there's nowhere else to go but down.
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Don't buy a 4704 Model F, there's nowhere else to go but down.
but
what
the
:confused:
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Don't buy a 4704 Model F, there's nowhere else to go but down.
but
what
the
:confused:
Actually, who am I kidding, you can always go sideways :P