geekhack
geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => Topic started by: Mad_Maxx on Mon, 07 September 2015, 23:02:51
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What is the Keweenaw you ask? It's a peninsula in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, known for it's hockey, engineering school, natural beauty, rich copper mining history, and snow.
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When I was looking at BigBlueSaw for ideas on what to do for this project, I saw that they had 1.5mm copper in stock, and I couldn't remember ever seeing anyone ever having tried to make a plate, so I figured why not.
This keyboard is named after the snow dog race run every year through the peninsula. Turned into a happy little coincidence.
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So I'm in the market for a new keyboard.
After a little flash of realization, I decided that I need a 65%. I've seen a couple options floating around out there, but nothing that quite tickles my fancy. I'm planning on getting a plate cut within the net week or two.
The layout:
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I've been trying to think of a new style of case design, but I haven't had any strokes of inspiration, so I'll probably go back to the routed wood case that I did for my last project (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=73452.0).
Comments? Criticism? Interest?
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I'm a fan of the layout. I too have been in the market for a 65% board, so I'll be watching this one develop.
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I like the layout. I've always thought 75% are a little awkward looking, this would fulfill my aesthetic needs much better.
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Here's a screenshot of the file that I'm planning on getting cut at big blue saw, so let me know if you see any errors.
Taken from the swillkb builder and modified a bit.
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Would recommend putting some mounting holes in the centre for increased stability, but it's probably not strictly necessary.
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How is this project progressing? After I finish my current projects, I am anxious to do a hand-wired 65% board. My current plan is quite similar to yours, but with a split space bar. I was just curious about what you settled on, 'cause I'm always looking for good ideas.
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Are you aware of this 65%?
http://ortholinearkeyboards.com/neutrino-top-plate
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Are you aware of this 65%?
http://ortholinearkeyboards.com/neutrino-top-plate
Thanks, I don't remember seeing the Neutrino before. With the exception of the more conventional backspace position, there is a lot of similarity between that and Matt3o's Brown Fox. I think that I prefer Matt3o's take on the 65% format, although as I mentioned earlier, I'm pretty determined to add a split spacebar to the mix ... for science. Besides, my left thumb doesn't get nearly enough exercise! ;D
The big challenge is key caps, but it looks like I can get 2.75U spacebars in the DSA profile, from Signature Plastics. If anyone has any additional sources for short spacebars, please lemme know. DSA will also allow me to move the backspace key around, without it looking too out of place.
Cheers!
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You should be able to get 2.75 unit keys in DSA, DCS, and SA from SP. Though 2.75 may be a little large for a split spacebar, especially if your thumb lands in the same place each time.
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Sorry to hijack, but it appears that the OP has gone on walkabout. :p
Thanks; yes I've been spending some quality time on the SP site. I have competing design pressures. Aesthetically, I like nothing better than a great bloody 7u space bar and a couple of 1.5U mods, but the 60% boards cry out for the enhanced functionality of a split space bar. So, while I am anxious to finally join the split space bar club, the absolute last thing that I want to do is to have a bottom row full of 15 1U key caps. Additionally, as I am still officially a split space bar virgin, I want to ensure that I have a comfortable transition by giving my thumbs a bit of extra space to stretch out on this first, introductory project.
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Disappointingly, there's no split space bar - and there have been a lot of delays - but you may want to pay attention to the progression of this (eventual) buy (http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/group-build-prototyping-phase-t7474-1620.html) @DT
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Sorry about ditching this thread. The fall semester wasn't kind to me.
I hope to start this back up. I was able to further my design a little bit over the last week.
This is my first attempt with a layered design, so I'm trying to keep things simple. These are the files that I'll be sending out to Big blue saw tomorrow (Dec. 29).
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The middle layer is going to be .354" clear acrylic, and I'm going to try out copper for the plates. It just sounds like a fun time.
The plates and middle layer will be held together by a bunch of machine screws that I'm going to counter sink by hand, and most likely have to heat up to get them to take in the acrylic without cracking it. Cause tapping is that **** I don't like.
I don't think I'll need any center supports, but ill probably get some spacers cut as well, just in case I feel like I need them.
I'm flying by the seat of my pants, so any help or input would be appreciated.
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Here's a screenshot of the file that I'm planning on getting cut at big blue saw, so let me know if you see any errors.
Taken from the swillkb builder and modified a bit.
(Attachment Link)
What is the pricing on this to get it done? I'd love to order one shipped to conus
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Here's a screenshot of the file that I'm planning on getting cut at big blue saw, so let me know if you see any errors.
Taken from the swillkb builder and modified a bit.
(Attachment Link)
What is the pricing on this to get it done? I'd love to order one shipped to conus
For just the top plate, It'd be about 100 bucks or so for one. I would recommend going with something a little more tried and true though. Something like the neutrino that was mentioned earlier.
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Ordered the plates, acrylic, screws, and stabs. Should be checking back in in a week or two, once it's all delivered.
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If anyone wants to see this build in action, I made a snapchat that I'll try to be more diligent about posting on than here, since I seem to struggle with the forum layout.
Add MadMaxx.Builds for all types of keyboard fun. I might even throw in a few pics of a some haggard engineering students to sweeten the deal.
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Decided I wanted 62g zealios for this build, but unfortunately he was out, so I bought 70x 67g switches, and then replaced the spring with some 62g sprit springs that I had laying around. Finished switching the springs and getting them lubed up today.
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I'm sure doing something like this would make some people want to crucify me for sacrilege or something, but I'm not too worried about it. I can't imagine the feel between sprit and zealios 62g will be noticeably different.
The plates and acrylic should be here tomorrow, but I'll be in at a leadership conference for the weekend, and I have clinicals and a lot of other stuff for the next week, so I may not be able to put up an update for a while.
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Got the plates from big blue saw today. They look pretty good dimensionwise, but they're going to need some work to look presentable. My phone camera really can't do the copper color justice, as the finish doesn't really show in the photo.
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Well I don't know how I did it, but I screwed up the layout.
If you look where the shift and fn buttons are supposed to be, on the bottom right, you can see that the wrong switch hole is offset.
I actually feel a little better now, believe it or not. Seems like I always mess at least one thing up, so this looking as good as it did was a little worrying.
I should be able to extend both of the holes to be able to fit the switches where I wanted them, but it'll most likely be a bit of a pain.
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Finally was able to get a little work done on this. As every semester, I drastically overestimated the amount of free time that I would have, so I'm pretty far behind where I want to be on this.
Anyway, here's the plate with filed out mounting holes on the bottom right to correct my little layout mishap, all the countersinks drilled for the screws, and sanded down with 1500 grit sandpaper. I'm going to spray the plate with a clear enamel to try and protect the copper somewhat. We'll see how it works. Hopefully I'll be able to start wiring on Monday.
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Wired up and switched up.
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Waiting on a breakout board and a usb cable.
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that's going to look great when it starts to patina
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When I saw copper was an option I wanted to use it too because it would look different and no-one uses it, it looks great!
Looking forward to seeing it with caps on :thumb:
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Got the caps (Stormtrooper JTK) on. This build was supposed to be black blanks from Ivans dark wave 2 group buy, so I had to improvise.
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Unfortunately, I can't get plate mounted stabs from anyone currently, besides zeal, but $15 for shipping is a unjustifiable. I have some from olkb on order, but who knows when they might show up.
If anyone has a source, or would be willing to sell some extras they have, please let me know.
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Thanks for the update; those copper plates are da bomb! :cool:
WASD used to carry plate mounted stabs; you might check with them.
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I sent you a PM about the plate mount stabs earlier..
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FINALLY got the stabs and got em on. Wow was that a treat. More planning will definitely be going into that next time.
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Still have to wire up the breakout board and finish the case up, but things are lookin pretty close.
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I like the layout, how much did it cost in materials ?
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FINALLY got the stabs and got em on. Wow was that a treat. More planning will definitely be going into that next time.
(Attachment Link)
Still have to wire up the breakout board and finish the case up, but things are lookin pretty close.
Awesome! Looks pretty good so far. :)
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I like the layout, how much did it cost in materials ?
I'm using an FC660C right now and I really like the layout, so I figured it was the next logical step.
The case itself was about $125. With market price zealios and jtk, this is shaping up to be quite the expensive build :rolleyes:
Awesome! Looks pretty good so far. :)
Thanks!
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I like the layout, how much did it cost in materials ?
I'm using an FC660C right now and I really like the layout, so I figured it was the next logical step.
The case itself was about $125. With market price zealios and jtk, this is shaping up to be quite the expensive build :rolleyes:
Awesome! Looks pretty good so far. :)
Thanks!
If you built a FC660 model, think of all of the coppery goodness that would show through on the RH side of the board!
Come to think of it, you could use a ClueBoard PCB and that would simplify the project enormously.
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If you built a FC660 model, think of all of the coppery goodness that would show through on the RH side of the board!
Come to think of it, you could use a ClueBoard PCB and that would simplify the project enormously.
I though about grabbing a pcb from something already out there, but I had an extra teensy laying around so I figured I would just hand wire it. Plus I kind of enjoy the hand wiring process.
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If you built a FC660 model, think of all of the coppery goodness that would show through on the RH side of the board!
Come to think of it, you could use a ClueBoard PCB and that would simplify the project enormously.
I though about grabbing a pcb from something already out there, but I had an extra teensy laying around so I figured I would just hand wire it. Plus I kind of enjoy the hand wiring process.
Well, it looks great. :eek:
Using copper was a brilliant idea!
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I really like the look of the copper plates. I wonder if they'll tarnish. Also the layout is fuego. It's very close to my personal favorite layout.
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Well, it looks great. :eek:
Using copper was a brilliant idea!
I really like the look of the copper plates. I wonder if they'll tarnish. Also the layout is fuego. It's very close to my personal favorite layout.
Thanks guys! Pictures definitely don't do the copper justice. With the clearcoat on the copper, I'm really not sure how it's going to age, but I'm thinking that I'm going to leave it raw on the next build and see how it ages naturally.
As an aside, I'm typing on this board now!! Which is a good thing cause I just sold my FC660C today, so I was in need of a keyboard. Timing worked out pretty well.
I could've been using it a week earlier, but I thought my usb cable was bad and it turned out that I just had imperceptibly cut through the 5V cable when I was unsheathing it for connection to the teensy/breakout board. But we got a new cable and we're typing up a purple storm.
I'm very much liking the ghetto 62g zealios switches so far, but even after a short time of use, I'm more and more convinced that linears are my switch. Never would've guesed it in a million years when I started this hobby, but thats how she be.
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Well, it looks great. :eek:
Using copper was a brilliant idea!
I really like the look of the copper plates. I wonder if they'll tarnish. Also the layout is fuego. It's very close to my personal favorite layout.
Thanks guys! Pictures definitely don't do the copper justice. With the clearcoat on the copper, I'm really not sure how it's going to age, but I'm thinking that I'm going to leave it raw on the next build and see how it ages naturally.
As an aside, I'm typing on this board now!! Which is a good thing cause I just sold my FC660C today, so I was in need of a keyboard. Timing worked out pretty well.
I could've been using it a week earlier, but I thought my usb cable was bad and it turned out that I just had imperceptibly cut through the 5V cable when I was unsheathing it for connection to the teensy/breakout board. But we got a new cable and we're typing up a purple storm.
I'm very much liking the ghetto 62g zealios switches so far, but even after a short time of use, I'm more and more convinced that linears are my switch. Never would've guesed it in a million years when I started this hobby, but thats how she be.
62g Zealios are incredibly smooth and, IMHO, the perfect weight. I'm a tactile guy, but I can well understand why you like those switches so much.
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I remember talking to you about this project at Konner's but didn't realize you'd made a thread for it.
It's been said a few times in this thread but the copper does look awesome, if you're free later this week we should meet up so I can check it out. I'm sure I can find some cool stuff to bring.
Also MTU is the best school for mechs, I know of 3 GH members who go here (myself included) and I wouldn't be surprised if there's some lurkers.
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I remember talking to you about this project at Konner's but didn't realize you'd made a thread for it.
It's been said a few times in this thread but the copper does look awesome, if you're free later this week we should meet up so I can check it out. I'm sure I can find some cool stuff to bring.
Also MTU is the best school for mechs, I know of 3 GH members who go here (myself included) and I wouldn't be surprised if there's some lurkers.
Yeah dude, for sure! Unfortunately, my last final is on Thursday night, so if you're still gonna be around on Friday or Saturday we can meet up sometime either day.
Impromptu GH meetup?? lol that's pretty cool tho, I only know one other person that's really into mechs, but I'm not sure if she's on GH or not.
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I remember talking to you about this project at Konner's but didn't realize you'd made a thread for it.
It's been said a few times in this thread but the copper does look awesome, if you're free later this week we should meet up so I can check it out. I'm sure I can find some cool stuff to bring.
Also MTU is the best school for mechs, I know of 3 GH members who go here (myself included) and I wouldn't be surprised if there's some lurkers.
Yeah dude, for sure! Unfortunately, my last final is on Thursday night, so if you're still gonna be around on Friday or Saturday we can meet up sometime either day.
Impromptu GH meetup?? lol that's pretty cool tho, I only know one other person that's really into mechs, but I'm not sure if she's on GH or not.
I'll be around until 1 or 2 on Friday so that should work.
I'd be down to organize an MTU meetup, I bet the PC gaming club would have some interested members. It'd be cool to see if there's any other interesting boards on campus.
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I remember talking to you about this project at Konner's but didn't realize you'd made a thread for it.
It's been said a few times in this thread but the copper does look awesome, if you're free later this week we should meet up so I can check it out. I'm sure I can find some cool stuff to bring.
Also MTU is the best school for mechs, I know of 3 GH members who go here (myself included) and I wouldn't be surprised if there's some lurkers.
Yeah dude, for sure! Unfortunately, my last final is on Thursday night, so if you're still gonna be around on Friday or Saturday we can meet up sometime either day.
Impromptu GH meetup?? lol that's pretty cool tho, I only know one other person that's really into mechs, but I'm not sure if she's on GH or not.
I'll be around until 1 or 2 on Friday so that should work.
I'd be down to organize an MTU meetup, I bet the PC gaming club would have some interested members. It'd be cool to see if there's any other interesting boards on campus.
Aight solid. I'll pm you my number.
I know a few more people that are interested in mechs, if not really active about it, so I'm sure there's plenty of people, especially at a place like Tech, that either have boards or are interested in the community.
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Also an update for everyone: The board is finished! I think anyway. The countersinks are sunk, the bottom plate is polished, and the breakout board is wired up.
There might be some things that I have to touch up, but I think we gucci. The breakout board is lookin a little jank, but if it works it works. I'll try to find a nice camera and upload some halfway decent pics for once later this week.
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This is a work of art! Copper always makes me happy! Such a beaut! :D
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Found my vote for kb of the month, great job!
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Great job. Can't wait for the patina to start showing.
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This is a work of art! Copper always makes me happy! Such a beaut! :D
Found my vote for kb of the month, great job!
Great job. Can't wait for the patina to start showing.
Thanks guys! I appreciate the love!
Unfortunately, my access to a halfway decent camera will probably not improve until the end of the summer, so for now, this is what my phone is able to take.
Everthing on the board is complete. Had to do a bit of jankery to install the breakout board, and one side of the acrylic has slightly larger holes due to waterjet taper, so the screws don't bite into the acrylic, and I have to use glue instead. Which seems to work fine, except for one part of the back plate thats bent a little from countersinking has a gap from the acrylic, but nothing a little TLC can't take care of.
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