I've looked and looked at these pics but got nowhere, I also found this closeup of the area on keychatter (https://www.keychatter.com/2015/01/30/the-vortex-poker-iii-pok3r-vs-the-poker-ii-what-we-know-so-far) and it suggests that neverused was incorrect - the end of the diode suggested appears to be connected to dipswitch 4 rather than the switch pin (I was trying to work out the other pin as I agreed with him!) and neither pin is connected to anything on this side of the PCB.
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(https://www.keychatter.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/keychatter_2015-01-31_01-03-55.jpg)
Reading the manual (http://www.vortexgear.tw/db/upload/webdata4/vortex_201591551875732.pdf) it seems that the caps lock key needs to be connected to switches 3 and 4 in the block so unlike a standard matrix I don't think it's going to be as simple as connecting the switch to the keys near it, at least if you want to keep those switches working.
I think you need the help of someone with a working pok3r and a multimeter to work this out and I would change the thread title to try and lure someone willing and able in.
He's right. I referenced other switches in the picture, but I think getting someone else with the same pcb to trace it out is the only way to go.
Also, I can never stress enough to learn proper solder/desolder techniques. Watch the eevblog videos, get an old simple piece of electronics and practice removing and replacing the components, and take time to learn.
Show Image
(http://i.imgur.com/y8Xb6Dd.jpg)
The hole on the left circled in green goes to the diode to the right of it. The hole on the right is probably connected on the back side to other switches in the column. Use a multimeter to find which it is connected to and solder to the corresponding spot. Someone with this same pcb could trace out that column for you.
No, it doesn't. The traces for both pins are on the opposite side of the board. The pin he mentioned actually connects to D17, the other diode in the picture. You can see the pulled up trace on the top of the board goes to the little via by that diode. The other pin has a trace which goes downwards, but I can't see under the plate in the pic to see exactly where it goes to. It may be best to scrape the actual trace there and try to solder a wire onto that which is long enough to reach to the switch pin on the other side of the board, but it's a small area to solder to and may prove difficult. Also, the switch will only be held in place by the plate once installed, so that could be an issue when changing keycaps.
Not to be too critical, but in essence the OP has pretty much ruined the board due to (very) poor desoldering technique.
A few tips about soldering:
1. heat the metal contacts with the iron, then add the solder to the joint and iron, then remove the iron once you see the solder has flowed where it should and properly "wet" the contacts.
2. don't leave the iron in place for too long, as this can loosen the copper from the board or damage parts.
3. use alcohol to clean off excess flux after soldering / desoldering.
4. use a good solder sucker when desoldering plated through-hole contacts on double sided boards.
As an interesting side-note, it looks like the production Pok3r boards DO have full support for LED's, including having the resistors in place, just like the pre-production samples. This is very good news :D