If you finally decide to share your final drawings, it would be great if you share a manufacturing log, just to get some lessons learned for the machining of the plate. I will try to get one milled myself in the machining workshop we have at the University.
If you finally decide to share your final drawings, it would be great if you share a manufacturing log, just to get some lessons learned for the machining of the plate. I will try to get one milled myself in the machining workshop we have at the University.
You got it man. I have some notes already from just trying to get the process better (reduce chattering, remove some unnecessary cuts, etc). I have also had some woes that taught me a lot. Even though this is still a simple 2D part its the most involved part I have machined on my setup yet. The first big issue I had was with the machine software (using chilipeppr). It pauses for a tool change, I change the tool, and you are supposed to hit this return to last position button. Well that button does a G0 rapid move to the last location. Which crashed my bit into the front of the case because the Z dropped too low before entering the pocket. The second one was literally the next try. I change into that same tool and this time I rapid to the XY manually first and then click the reposition button. So now just the Z drops down to location (the right side of the part on the outside profile). As soon as I unpause from the tool change it G0 rapids to an XY location and just cuts through the part haha. After examining the gcode I see that there is a XY rapid and then a Z rapid after every tool change. So now I just unpause after I change the tool instead of hitting that god damn button.
But finally I have a test piece cut out of MDF!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kcM1XUt.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zcGU6Kw.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/s4XGOwb.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nafRzXY.jpg)
Theres a few things that I had to change. I dropped the fillets on the inside of the case. I felt they were unnecessary and because I don't have any round-over tooling they had to be roughed out with a ballnose endmill and sanded flush. This means they took FOREVER. There was a mistake made and the outside one didn't get cut unfortunately, but that is the only one that I left. Which is about a 12 minute operation alone. I also dropped the standoffs. No matter what I did I could not get them to stop snapping off. They were just too small for being made out of wood and without fail they each would snap off at some point in time. Even if 1 survived I could easily snap it off with my thumb with absolutely no effort. I just flushed them up because I am gluing those brass m2x6 standoffs in anyways. I also removed the edge around the perimeter. It didn't touch when I did it the first time. I may add it back and make it wider, but I am not sure I see the necessity.
I think the USB is still a little too far to the left. The dip switch hole seems way too tiny as well.
As far as machining goes, I have an operation that after the 1/8" endmill cuts the usb and dipswitch pockets it goes around and tightens up edges. Just trying to get any fillets naturally left over from the 1/4" endmill down as small as possible. I would think that in theory this would work, but it seems like it worked sloppily in practice. All the corners kind of look strange. I can't figure out if its the operation I am doing or if maybe the endmill is flexing a little (my longest one) causing a strange looking cut. You can probably see it in some of the pictures. The corners are almost three circles Olympic ring style lol.
Oh yeah and this is how I monitor my machine and play destiny so this process doesn't bore me to death. (YawCAM top center for networked webcam and TightVNC viewer on the top right)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RpJ5jk7.jpg)
Running the test cut to see if my measurements are correct.
Rocko's Modern Life as the avatar and machining porn video? I like you. And I like this project even if I don't really like wood cases on keyboards. I love the CNC and the whole design process you're showing people. Can't wait to see it finished.I have little knowledge about CNC, but wouldn't it be possible to use the same G-code to cut an aluminum case? (After making the proper setup changes concerning material change, of course.)
I have little knowledge about CNC, but wouldn't it be possible to use the same G-code to cut an aluminum case? (After making the proper setup changes concerning material change, of course.)
I have little knowledge about CNC, but wouldn't it be possible to use the same G-code to cut an aluminum case? (After making the proper setup changes concerning material change, of course.)
Um...I think so? I'm not 100% sure. But the G-Code wouldn't give you a drawing or a model. It would just be a line of code to run the machine.
You could use similar Gcode. You would need to change your speeds and feeds. Its more about the model though. The issue you'll have with gcode is that it is situation specific. This means that I could give you my gcode and it might not work for you. You won't have the same tools or machine as me. This is where fusion360 gets nifty though because you could open my part, put your tools in your own tool library, possibly change your speeds and feeds depending on machine capabilities, and output your gcode with the correct post processor for your machine.
But all the tooling operations would be the same. If I wanted to cut this in aluminum on my machine I would just change speeds, feeds, and max depths and I would be okay. All the operations would stay the same. The 3D model can be used to just give to a shop as well and they would program their own operations for their machines.
I might be interested at some point. Currently I am mainly interested in wood as well. I want to eventually do one with a slant and an integrated palm rest as well since I have seen interest expressed. Mainly with the aluminum thing I just meant if people wanted to ever use this model for a group run or something. I would just need to add the builtin standoffs back real quick. I will try to remember to release both versions when I know it works.
I am eventually going to do a few upgrades to my machine. I can add some extra material in a couple of spots that should allow me to cut aluminum without flex. I can technically do it now its just I would have to do it in super small depth cuts. I am still in the process of insulating my garage which is why the machine is in my living room in all these pictures lol.
I am hoping to do my first cherry cut today I just had an issue with my side clamps not holding the material flat. Needed a couple extra long bolts to use my top down clamps.
Wow I never thought about doing a low profile case lime that. I actually really like it! II still find it amazing the ideas people come up with! Now I know where my husband gets some of his... And down the rabbit hole I start to go! Awesome work!
I was thinking about making 10 or so and doing one of these fancy raffles.Plz plz just make this a groupbuy! I want to make absolutely sure I get one.
I was thinking about making 10 or so and doing one of these fancy raffles.Plz plz just make this a groupbuy! I want to make absolutely sure I get one.
Wow, that's actually a really awesome community-driven approach! I would suggest only that you restrict people from profiting off of any groupbuys that use your design unless they somehow share it with you.I was thinking about making 10 or so and doing one of these fancy raffles.Plz plz just make this a groupbuy! I want to make absolutely sure I get one.
The way this will work is that once I finish this and know that my design works I will post the model here to geekhack. It will then be geekhack's low profile 60% case 3d model. I will have a version for wood with thread inserts and a version with aluminum standoffs that are threaded. At that point it will belong to the community. Want to cut one yourself, download it and have at it. If anyone wants to run a group buy they can. At any time for any reason. It will have a license that says no more than if you make changes just make your changes open. I would love to do an IC and run a GB for it but I feel I don't have the experience nor do I have the time here. If this works out and someone wants to "sponsor" me that would awesome, but they can also just get the design from this thread and use it in whatever 60% GB they are doing (I am looking at you Leandren lol).
I am hoping to see these in the wild... only time will tell though!
Yeah I haven't decided completely about that yet. I will most likely just leave it how it is, which is how I do most of my projects. I feel like the reason others profit off of groupbuys is because they are very involved to run. It's a hassle. I was going to make this case anyways and now the community can benefit from it. Even if the GB runner profits that is still the community profiting in a way as that person runs more group buys and continues to provide a service to geekhackers.Personally I think there's a definite difference between profiting and paying yourself for your time. I don't really think any profit should be made off of buys for the community, but it's totally understandable for people to pay themselves for the effort they put in.