geekhack
geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => Topic started by: fohat.digs on Mon, 19 October 2015, 16:30:55
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This is mostly a picture log rather than an instructional guide, since I went into exhaustive detail in my F-122 ANSI-mod guide
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48786.msg1048948#msg1048948
regarding the minutiae of the breakdown and buildup process.
I receive a ragged incomplete beat-up Model F 107-key terminal keyboard from Orihalcon, who had been kind enough to install the xwhatsit controller before he sent it to me. I am sure that I could do that work, but since he has experience and wasn't charging too much to do it, I was happy to pay the extra fee.
(http://i.imgur.com/ZEv47Lb.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ejv7OLS.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/yAtTdyj.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ZAEKVh7.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/DywzToL.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/mLjfrWV.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ykRMh0Z.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/VyUhFWZ.jpg)
My goal was to finish the outer case as the metal that it is, and let its natural appearance show through.
(http://i.imgur.com/m1tUjpV.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/2NXGHRR.jpg)
I did not want to have to maintain a highly-buffed and polished product, and went for matte instead.
Unfortunately, when I took it to the metal shop for shot blasting, they told me that it was not actually a good strong aluminum product, but rather a “very soft” alloy that did not yield a consistent finish, either in texture or color. Bummer.
(http://i.imgur.com/a82b0pl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/zYIYQE1.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/m58qKnU.jpg)
However, Rustoleum continues to add really interesting and attractive colors in their spray paint line, so I chose “hammered copper” for the internal front plate and “oil rubbed bronze” for the outer case. I would have preferred a lighter color more like the IBM “industrial” cases, but the “oil rubbed bronze” was just too nice to pass up.
(http://i.imgur.com/u3eA7PX.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/NphmnEx.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/UO36mYe.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Wbf3Ykm.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Hwd0ICa.jpg)
Since I really don't like noise, I padded the case with my heavy 60 mil EPDM. I glued the pieces in with black silicone caulk.
(http://i.imgur.com/TIKaz2n.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/U36dPOf.jpg)
I believe that Model Fs need some help along the centerline of curvature after they are cracked open and put back together.
3 bolts were added: left of Tab, right of Right Shift, and right of Page Down. They really make a difference, in my opinion.
(http://i.imgur.com/3NQuG0X.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/8NtbIBU.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/bQRXb0r.jpg)
So here it is:
Plain stock keys for the office:
(http://i.imgur.com/07rXdP6.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/13CYtn8.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/bvHeKPd.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/fP57jVW.jpg)
All dressed up for the party:
(http://i.imgur.com/OhSQwb8.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/bM8To0H.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/UzwzXUF.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/18zxT66.jpg)
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Very nice restoration, thanks for sharing!
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Great work as always and nice picture documentation.
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Thanks for sharing your restoration!
I asked this in your thread over on DT, but there should be interest in this here on GH as well -- is the case on the F107 made of "pot metal" or cast aluminum? Would you recommend paint, powder coat, or some other type of coating for the F107 case?
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Very nice! The 107 is one I wish I had, and seeing your restoration makes me even more jealous.
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Looks very regal; awesome pictures, as always.
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Thanks, guys. I am actually a bit embarrassed by my photos, I should have taken it out into the full noon sunlight. The copper plate under the bronze exterior is really perfect with pearl and pebble keys.
Words could hardly express my disappointment with the shot blasting results. For days, I had been fantasizing about the perfect consistent dull matte gray that I was going to get, the very essence of "raw metal" that I could anodize and keep indefinitely. The guys at the shop were apologetic, but I think that they were disappointed, too.
Those metallic Rustoleum paints really are spectacular, I can't recommend them enough.
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Excellent work!
I love the restoration of these, and I am continually amazed at how well they turn out in the hands of an experienced restorer.
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Beautiful, just beautiful!
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Awesome work! I am humbled by the master; putting my 107-key restoration to shame :p
Interesting that you noted the centerline being a little out of character after re-assembly. I need to take some pics of mine now that she's back together, but the ping and reverb is *extreme* on certain keys along the center row of mine as well. Adding bolts there is really interesting. Perhaps something I'll have to try in the future (if I ever have a drill press handy, hehe).
Has the foam insulation made a noticeable difference in your opinion? I had considered it, but decided I prefer my IBM's to sing as loudly as they can. Shame yours is missing the buzzer; they're a neat party trick but in reality not much more than a great tool for annoying significant others :))
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Interesting that you noted the centerline being a little out of character after re-assembly.
the ping and reverb is *extreme* on certain keys along the center row of mine as well.
Adding bolts there is really interesting. Perhaps something I'll have to try in the future (if I ever have a drill press).
Has the foam insulation made a noticeable difference in your opinion?
As soon as I started messing with the big Model Fs (122-key) with their much great height and longer curvature, I came to the conclusion that they were going to need extra help along the center line. At first, I did a couple with several (at least half a dozen, I think) bolts and I cut off the original tabs.
Later I realized that the tabs were just the ticket for keeping the alignment good, and all that was really required was just enough compression to pull the plates together firmly.
I don't have a drill press, just a good old hand drill. Use a fresh sharp $3 bit from the hardware store and it will easily last for 3 holes. I put the PCB onto the back plate and drill in places that do not have traces. Then I put the front plate on and drill back in the other direction.
I cut that mat out of a sheet of thin soft neoprene that I got from wcass. I believe that it is 2mm from McMaster-Carr.
I dislike noise and ping so I did everything I could to quieten mine. I cut pieces of my scrap thick EPDM and glued it into the cavities with black silicone sealant. I also used black electrical tape on the tabs where the inner assembly is sandwiched between the case halves, and rubber washers at the screws.
And the the floss mod, of course.
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So fohat: are you using this one day-to-day? Has it replaced the 122-key boards?
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Beautiful job. I really love the form factor of this one. :thumb:
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are you using this one day-to-day? Has it replaced the 122-key boards?
Nope. I have gotten used to having F keys on both left and top (it's like having both left and right mice), and F20-F24 in particular are my media keys.
For the last several months I have mostly been using my "naked" F-122 with no top cover.
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Real nice work :thumb: