Post by: filphil on Mon, 19 October 2015, 20:14:25
(http://i.imgur.com/bvZLLOz.jpg)
______________________________________________________________
As more people are getting their own TGR-Jane's I was so inspired by how quickly people have built it and how well yuktsi organized and shipped the product that I decided to begin a build log of this keyboard. If you didn't know this was the "start" of TGR's endeavors in to the custom keyboard development and was teased for a little less than two months in the IC threads. I received the kit on October 17, 2015 so the whole process from the beginning of the IC thread to landing on my doorstep(seriously I heard the box plop down on my steps) took about three and a half months. I'd say that's a quick turnaround time, especially by group buy standards!
The plan with the board is to have it gifted to my significant other. I have a bad habit of bringing everyone around me in to my hobbies whether it be gaming, model building, cars, etc. Unfortunately for her she had to hear me talk about different switches, soldering, and all the little things about keyboards and this is the least I can do to show her appreciation for the patience. Plus I got number 19 which is my birth date. :))
The ending result should be as follows:
- TGR-Jane Winkeyless TKL
- Steel Plate
- 62g lubed Ergo "Vintage" Clears
- Gateron Clear Switch Tops
- Clipped and Lubed Stabilizers
- Polished Brass Bar
- GON Foam Insert
- Pink LEDS
I'll keep the first post of this updated so that it'll be an easy look for everybody. Hopefully the readers enjoy this as this will be a learning experience for me. Feel free to school me on anything. :thumb:
______________________________________________________________
Unboxing and dismantling
(http://i.imgur.com/RvFo4Vp.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ifnQ2U6.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/h7qfIEd.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/dt7PPua.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/xNK4dFb.jpg)
Did not realize I had to buy resistors and diodes. Maybe I got spoiled by the DUCK boards in that regard. Quick message to Yuktsi and was told to buy ll4148 diodes and 0805 type resistors. Since there will be pink 1.8mm LEDS I opted for 820ohm resistors. Ordered and should reach me by the end of the week.
(http://i.imgur.com/uaEuIyA.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/hCfxTef.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/boPpZVt.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/L4VGcEE.jpg)
Picked up the steel plate for a few reasons. I didn't think the red aluminum backplate would blend well with a pink aluminum keyboard and I wanted the heavier weight and more solid feeling of steel.
One thing I noticed while dismantling the board was the need to use two different hex keys. One was to take apart the case and the other was used to separate the steel plate from the top case and removal of the brass weight. It would have been simpler to have the need for only one hex key for the entire board. Not a big deal for me since I had the tools on hand already.
______________________________________________________________
Switch Modding
(http://i.imgur.com/rOZI1KC.jpg)
Here is my station for switch modding. The switches were cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner filled with IPA for three passes of 30 minutes off camera. Each part was separated in to individual batches.
Relevant materials include:
- Sprit 62g Gold Springs
- "Vintage" Cherry MX Clears
- Sprit Lube Station
- Gateron Clear Switch Tops
- Reaper Paint Brush
- GH V3 Thick Lube
- Krytox Mix of GPL 103 and GH V3 Thick Lube to my desired consistency(for springs)
- Cloth for Cleanliness
(http://i.imgur.com/Q74QZdq.jpg)
It was around this time I got a little tired. Between this and watching DOTA 2 streams took me about 2 hours to make sure the switch feeling and sound matched my preferences.
My method for lubing switches was light coat of oil on the bottom of the spring where it meets the housing, light coats of thick lube on the friction points on the slider, and then a light coat on the copper leaf where it makes contact with the slider leg. Did I say light coat? I'm sure I did.
(http://i.imgur.com/lPPewwE.jpg)
All done. 84 switches completed and willing to assimilate with the board.
______________________________________________________________
Brass Bar Polishing + Bonus Content
(http://i.imgur.com/8Xxkjer.jpg)
Here is a picture of the bar before polishing. I didn't realize how nasty it was until it was uploaded and viewed on my PC. Ugh.
(http://i.imgur.com/q04Ui3C.jpg)
Post polishing shot. The polishing process was easy. Someone recommended I use a mixture of baking soda and lemon juice as the compound for polishing. Combine it with some elbow grease and a plush microfiber cloth and this is the result. I was pretty satisfied with this so I cancelled my order for a brass polishing compound I made the night before. Amazon can be pretty convenient that way.
(http://i.imgur.com/05zQd1Y.jpg)
The bonus content involves making the Jane and numbered engravings pop. As you can tell from the previous picture the engraving sort of gets lost in the luster of the brass.
In order to do this you need these materials:
- Thin Paint Brush
- Enamel Paint
- Zippo Lighter Fluid
- Paper Towels
- Cotton Swabs
The method is pretty easy but I polished the weight primarily to help aid in the flow of the thinned paint in to the engravings. First you want to mix the enamel paint and the zippo lighter fluid in to the dish aiming for the consistency of skim milk. The lighter fluid acts as a thinner for enamel paints but it's real value comes from it evaporating rapidly. Dip the brush in to the mix to "load" it up. When you touch the paint brush in to the engraving you want the "loaded" brush to transfer the paint in to the engraving like a flowing river. You don't have to be accurate as you can tell from the picture. Do that for the entire engraving.
(http://i.imgur.com/FCYaypz.jpg)
Let it dry completely then pour lighter fluid on to your cotton swabs/paper towels and squeeze out any excess by pressing it against a paper towel. The swab/towel should not be soaking wet. Wipe away GENTLY over the brass bar and then you'll come across a product like below.
(http://i.imgur.com/ATpf0VE.jpg)
Very easy to do. Let it dry for a few hours. You can reapply paint as needed. Enamel paints take a long time to cure so I'll have it sitting on my table for the next 24 hours.
(http://i.imgur.com/y3hGlTt.jpg)
As a final say before we move on to the next section - The polishing was very light and probably the least abrasive method. Could I have attempted to polish the weight to a mirror finish? Yeah but doing that by hand is time consuming. If I still had my DA polish I could have thrown on a small 4" buffering pad and probably achieved a blindingly glossy finish but that was given up a long time ago. That said the weight will ultimately be covered by the foam and pcb so if you want to do this you have to weigh the effort invested and the amount of satisfaction after. For less than hours worth of work(including typing up the entry and quick processing/uploading) I'm happy with the end result.
______________________________________________________________
Weighing parts and anodizing flaws
Time to weight the components of the kit. Still waiting on those SMD diodes and resistors so really I'm just finding reasons to play with the board. :p
I notice my rug appears to be different colors in these pictures. Photography is difficult!
(http://i.imgur.com/idF1AS4.jpg)
Brass Weight: 11.1oz
(http://i.imgur.com/0wOVZYf.jpg)
Steel Plate: 9.3oz
(http://i.imgur.com/XGr3hHx.jpg)
Bare PCB - 4.6oz
(http://i.imgur.com/4dxyBy8.jpg)
Bottom Case - 3lbs 5.3oz
(http://i.imgur.com/NWLwCqx.jpg)
Top case - 11.7oz
(http://i.imgur.com/KZ1gGph.jpg)
Screws - 0.3oz :))
(http://i.imgur.com/875nUjJ.jpg)
Total weight of kit: 5lbs 10.5oz
Added GON foam instert beneath the PCB and foam between pcb and plate so weight will be very slightly less without those.
(http://i.imgur.com/OtDB1og.jpg)
As TGR's first attempt at the custom keyboard business I expected a flaw to arise. I discovered these fingerprint looking things and attempted to wipe away with a soft microfiber cloth and some IPA to no avail. I brought it up with Yuktsi mentioning that this probably happened from hand oils while handling the case before throwing it in for anodizing. Also it's fairly obvious in previous pictures but there's a slight shade difference between the top and bottom half casings. It doesn't bother me but I promised Yuktsi that I'd bring up any issues I find whether it was minor or significant.
Regardless, I'm overall satisfied with the end product and Yuktsi made every attempt to ensure the product arrived safely to the group buyers. The anodizing issues will be addressed before the next round of the group buy starts. Unfortunately for the impatient that means R2 of TGR keyboards will be delayed but I'm sure that wait will be appreciated in the end.
______________________________________________________________
My first ever mishap with shipping since I started online shopping in 2007
Alright I woke up from my sleep(I work nights so I typically sleep during the day) and saw an envelope on my table. I knew it was my package for the diodes and resistors. Something was awry though because I noticed it was completely flat. That was sign number one that there might be a problem.
(http://i.imgur.com/hh2J4OU.jpg)
Notice the top crease was ignored and a new fold was made? Uh oh...
(http://i.imgur.com/mju55pk.jpg)
As a result the top wasn't sealed and the contents of my package was lost. The fold was tucked inside rather than over. RIP in peace SMD components. :(
(http://i.imgur.com/IUKfrNY.jpg)
At least this came in today. It's a DIY headphone AMP! Excitement has been rekindled.
______________________________________________________________
Building the board
(http://i.imgur.com/4Bl5oOx.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/RQLsGFF.jpg)
Soldering the SMD components wasn't bad at all. In fact I find it was less intimidating than when I first learned how to solder. Still it was my first go at soldering a complete set for a board and I definitely made the rookie mistake of putting excess solder on multiple joints.
If you haven't SMD soldered before you can reference these two videos:
I linked the first one to sort of illustrate how much flux helps with the soldering SMD components.
LL4148 diodes probably won't be on my ordering list again since they like to roll around. 1N4148W diodes cost a little bit more but the easier placement is something I will probably prefer.
(http://i.imgur.com/r0Jkdws.jpg)
Next up you'll want to make sure the steel/aluminum plate is straight. Crooked mounted switches isn't a fun thing to take care of after everything is already soldered together.
(http://i.imgur.com/rrLpCFr.jpg)
Stabilizers clipped
(http://i.imgur.com/KsWIuY4.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/imGUwbp.jpg)
When mounting the stabilizers to the pcb you insert and match the red circles first and then the blue.
(http://i.imgur.com/ogBwxpH.jpg)
I test fitted the plate over the spacebar stabilizer to check for any tolerance or contact issues.
(http://i.imgur.com/GvQuJx0.jpg)
Toothpick inserted stabilizers. I'm not sure if there's really a benefit in feeling but I can say it at least keeps the stabilizer wedged in place.
(http://i.imgur.com/u6LihXk.jpg)
Soldering is done
(http://i.imgur.com/c2xErBV.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/NvTZo88.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/TXFDcjQ.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/bvZLLOz.jpg)
______________________________________________________________
Up Next: LEDs whenever they decide to come in(and the accompanying SMD resistor soldering).
Change Log
- 10.19.15 - First post
- 10.20.15 - Tweaked post, added description, made it look nicer(I think)
- 10.21.15 - Added brass bar polishing and painted engraving process
- 10.22.15 - Weighed the components and photographed anodizing flaw
- 10.23.15 - RIP my SMD components
- 10.28.15 - Soldering of switches and diodes completed. Board is functional.
Post by: KaminKevCrew on Mon, 19 October 2015, 22:55:52
Post by: Sed8op8 on Mon, 19 October 2015, 23:01:15
Very nice photography! That looks like quite the board. How red is that red? In some of the pictures, my screen make it look a bit rosy.its a very unique pink :p
Post by: KaminKevCrew on Mon, 19 October 2015, 23:04:45
Wonderful! Tomorrow I should be getting the rest of the parts for a board of my own, using purple, bronze and pink leds. I like the somewhat unusual color choice!Very nice photography! That looks like quite the board. How red is that red? In some of the pictures, my screen make it look a bit rosy.its a very unique pink
I bet your SO will love it! (you've gotten me thinking about building one for mine, and for a similar reason, to boot!)
Post by: filphil on Tue, 20 October 2015, 08:07:58
Very nice photography! That looks like quite the board. How red is that red? In some of the pictures, my screen make it look a bit rosy.its a very unique pink :p
Unique is the right word for it but it's pleasant on the eyes!
Wonderful! Tomorrow I should be getting the rest of the parts for a board of my own, using purple, bronze and pink leds. I like the somewhat unusual color choice!Very nice photography! That looks like quite the board. How red is that red? In some of the pictures, my screen make it look a bit rosy.its a very unique pink
I bet your SO will love it! (you've gotten me thinking about building one for mine, and for a similar reason, to boot!)
Thank you for the kind words.
Post has been updated
Post by: Jokrik on Tue, 20 October 2015, 10:01:12
Will be watching
Post by: Steezus on Tue, 20 October 2015, 11:15:07
Post by: filphil on Wed, 21 October 2015, 09:16:19
Great photos, I can't wait to see the board all finished up. I'd say that is the best looking pink case I've seen, not too pink but just right.
Love the photos, very interesting build. You've a great product to begin with :)
Will be watching
Thanks guys.
Hope you all are entertained
Post by: yuktsi on Wed, 21 October 2015, 09:32:48
Post by: azhdar on Wed, 21 October 2015, 09:37:14
Post by: filphil on Wed, 21 October 2015, 09:42:23
Very nice build log bro. Oh yeah, this just pops into my head. You should probably spray the brass with a thin transparent coating, since the will oxidize pretty easily. Please share it here if you have any unsatisfactions with the board. Criticism is pain, but it is necessary. Hehe :thumb:
Yep. That's the plan but I need to have the paint cure before attempting that. A good product to do that with is FUTURE floor polish/pledge. Despite the name it's not really a polish but rather an acrylic sealant used on floors and commonly used in modeling for it's ease of availability with a low cost.
Thank you again for the support and the answering of my questions. You've been a big help. ;D
I really like the job done on the Brass bar.
Thanks! :thumb:
Post by: Evo_Spec on Wed, 21 October 2015, 11:12:33
Post by: nguyenkimtam on Wed, 21 October 2015, 11:17:15
Post by: Flossed on Wed, 21 October 2015, 11:52:26
Post by: Thumper_ on Wed, 21 October 2015, 11:59:49
Post by: Danboard on Wed, 21 October 2015, 12:26:18
Also, great idea for the brass insert!
Post by: Sifo on Wed, 21 October 2015, 13:24:48
Post by: mobbo on Wed, 21 October 2015, 13:54:06
Post by: Pemdas on Wed, 21 October 2015, 15:58:07
Post by: justnits on Thu, 22 October 2015, 20:06:45
Post by: filphil on Thu, 22 October 2015, 22:59:22
Post by: trenzafeeds on Fri, 23 October 2015, 06:23:37
Post by: whentheclouds on Fri, 23 October 2015, 08:10:25
Post by: filphil on Fri, 23 October 2015, 08:26:49
I'm really glad that you're doing this thread, it's an invaluable resource for first-time builders to have as many straight-up build logs as possible.
I think this really helps in getting people to think about their work flow. That's the type of thing I usually observe when people do live displays or online streams. This, arguably, isn't the most efficient build but I usually have something on to watch, while on mumble speaking to the buds, and chat on another screen while taking a part switches and stuff. In that regard doing this hasn't really taken time away from my day but rather took place adjacent to others.
how do you like the sprit lube station? i was about to grab that along with a buncha stuff from him right before he went awol again
The lube station serves the purpose. I'd say a let down is that it only holds 64 switches at a time. I'd much rather have had a bigger lube station than a smaller one but it's what was available so I picked it up. Stations are nice in that you can easily test your modifications for sounds and feeling. If I feel a switch is scratchy or sounds vastly different I immediately remove it from it's spot and move it to another just to be sure it's not the area of the station causing it. You can hear that the key presses on your keyboard sound different even though you use the same switch depending the location you press it. If the anomaly persists then I re-lubricate to see if it subsides and then discard the switch bottom if I have to.
Post by: whentheclouds on Fri, 23 October 2015, 08:40:50
Post by: filphil on Fri, 23 October 2015, 08:56:31
sounds indispensable for any serious builder, heck it's still a huge quality of life accessory for assembling just the one board. you don't think the portability/space saving form factor are more beneficial than a bigger sized station?
I've built two boards with this, not including the Jane, and have more in the future incoming. The station will easily pay for itself in my circumstance. If I wanted to I'm sure it would be fairly easy to sell this off and make most of the funds back.
As far as portability and space I keep this tucked away neatly away with my keyboard stuff under my bed. Once I start lubing switches I go straight through the day so it's a one and done thing with me. When finished I put it away. It's sort of how I feel about the TKL to 60% board transition - I can use the functionality of the F keys and cluster so the lesser keys actually comes out to be a hindrance for me just like I could use ~90 keys on a lube station.
Post by: whentheclouds on Fri, 23 October 2015, 09:42:59
Post by: Steezus on Fri, 23 October 2015, 09:47:23
i see. tucking your stuff under the bed is a strange thought, but it makes sense if you don't have a dedicated storage area
A lot of people use the space under their bed for storage otherwise there would be unnecessary space collecting dust.
Will the resistors and diodes be in before the weekend? I always hated having a package sitting in the post office on the weekends.
Post by: filphil on Fri, 23 October 2015, 14:14:50
i see. tucking your stuff under the bed is a strange thought, but it makes sense if you don't have a dedicated storage area
A lot of people use the space under their bed for storage otherwise there would be unnecessary space collecting dust.
Will the resistors and diodes be in before the weekend? I always hated having a package sitting in the post office on the weekends.
The package for resistors and diodes just came in today. Unfortunately it looks like the sender packaged it and sealed it like a fool would because there's literally NOTHING in side it. The lip that seals the priority mail envelope is tucked inside instead of over to complete the seal... WTF.
Post by: romevi on Fri, 23 October 2015, 14:19:52
i see. tucking your stuff under the bed is a strange thought, but it makes sense if you don't have a dedicated storage area
A lot of people use the space under their bed for storage otherwise there would be unnecessary space collecting dust.
Will the resistors and diodes be in before the weekend? I always hated having a package sitting in the post office on the weekends.
The package for resistors and diodes just came in today. Unfortunately it looks like the sender packaged it and sealed it like a fool would because there's literally NOTHING in side it. The lip that seals the priority mail envelope is tucked inside instead of over to complete the seal... WTF.
Wow, that's awful. I've had an envelope from Originative come that was completely open, but thankfully nothing came out. The plastic bag containing the caps was caught on the adhesive of the bubble mailer and prevented anything else from popping out.
Post by: filphil on Fri, 23 October 2015, 14:41:53
My amplifier came in though. Pretty excited about that!
Post updated
Post by: Steezus on Fri, 23 October 2015, 17:05:27
The seller said he'd replace it. No harm no foul I suppose.
My amplifier came in though. Pretty excited about that!
Post updated
At least you were able to find a resolution with the seller. Pretty ****ty situation but at least you're not getting screwed out of your money. Even the seller's mistake is making me wait longer to see this build thread be complete. >:D
Post by: alienman82 on Fri, 23 October 2015, 18:04:15
Post by: Kola93 on Mon, 26 October 2015, 02:50:17
Everything looks nice, but it's unfortunate that the top and bottom case anodizing does not match. :(
Otherwise a great build. ^-^
Post by: filphil on Wed, 28 October 2015, 14:37:22
Post by: Evo_Spec on Mon, 09 November 2015, 01:55:14
Board is now functional and has been paired with a set of keycaps. In fact I typed up the latest update with the Jane!
Never thought about the toothpick in the stabilizer thing, I've never had issues with a stab popping out or being wiggly but it's a nice touch.
Post by: yowaffle on Tue, 10 November 2015, 19:41:53
btw, your build looks amazing and your log was great!
Post by: filphil on Tue, 10 November 2015, 21:41:25
Keyboard building noob here! How many diodes and resistors did you need? My best guess is 1 each for every switch. I'm contemplating joining the Jane CE GB tomorrow(?)
btw, your build looks amazing and your log was great!
If you're ordering from eBay they usually have packs of 100 for sale and would order that amount. I thought 87 would be enough as well but there are more diodes than that to solder because the pcb supports 87 so the 100 pack came in handy. Rather than picking out which keys you'd use and solder their respective diodes you can just do them all for not much more time.
Post by: renatalidiane on Tue, 02 April 2019, 20:37:03
Post by: romevi on Wed, 08 May 2019, 10:05:08
Post by: Sifo on Thu, 09 May 2019, 09:21:59