Oh yeah, I can do this. If I can disassemble, clean, adjust, and regulate a 1940's vintage watch then I can solder a few meager electronic pieces.Definetely.
Question 1- Is the flux necessary? This is obviously a high tension area and we want the soldered surfaces to hold under pressure. This is it's purpose?
Question 2- Am I better using a solder pump or a solder wick to clean the leftover solder from the usb mini port that broke off? There are no more prongs or anchors to heat, so I am guessing the wick?Are you reusing the same damaged USB port? If so, reconsider, you'd get better results with a new one.
What is your opinion of the condition of the board?I think the only parts which are really damaged are the USB port pads, but before you throw the board away, try cleaning it up.
I'm educated in the medical fieldMe too, but you would concur that this hobby is dreadfully addicting.
Do the port pads simply give a place to solder the feet to the pcb?Yes, they conduct no electricity, they are there to solder the port firmly on the board.
Is the only place that is really acting as a conduit the 5 pcb pins on the board?Correct.
If you look between the usb port pads it appears their are connections running between them in the pcb. I circled them. This is puzzling to me.Those white lines are printed, they are not nets.
Mr. Talking Tree, you've been very helpful. Thanks :thumb:My pleasure.
One more thing is that I have seen videos of peoples soldering the 5 pins to the board. I was under the impression that the pins simply lay against the leads. Is that necessary?Yes, that's necessary because without soldering you might risk random signal loss.
I was also wondering how you keep the port aligned with the pins as you are attempting to solder.In your case, you should simply solder the port to two opposite large pads, so the port won't move and the pins will stay aligned.
However if you hold the solder with one hand and the iron with the other the port can move as you are trying to keep it in place.
In the video it looked like he started with a bit of solder right on the pad and when he heated that up that immediately cooled and anchored it into place. I could try that.There, you got yourself your answer. Put solder on one large pad alone, then melt it with your iron while you align the port with tweezers.
I have one more question my friend. I don't expect you to answer every question I have as it's my responsibility to do research, but my 60/40 solder has a diameter of 1mm. Looking at these connectors it may be too wide? This 1mm seems to be the most standard size, and there is no one place where there is a clear-cut question and answer, so I thought I'd ask you or anybody else who wants to chime in. Especially if it beads as it melts it's much wider. Should I be looking for 0.5mm solder for replacing a usb port?I only used 1mm solder so far so I can't tell the difference, although 1mm with flux is thin enough for the purpose.
Edit: well I purchased 0.3 and 0.5mm solder and will experiment to find the best technique. I make the stupid mistake of trying to solder the twisted port back to the board. That won't happen again.
I just didn't want a big blob of solder running across all the connectors.Flux should avoid that, but in any case you could try putting something between a pad and another. I use the tip of a neon tester (https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/16/Phasenpruefer_01-l_KMJ.jpg) which doesn't get soldered.
you sure one couldn't clean that up? is that just plastic or silicone from the middle of the PCB sandwich?I'm afraid there's no more copper to solder on, the only chance is to hardwire that switch to another.
you sure one couldn't clean that up? is that just plastic or silicone from the middle of the PCB sandwich?I'm afraid there's no more copper to solder on, the only chance is to hardwire that switch to another.
What do I need to complete this, just some copper wire?Yes, even something reused.
there is no such thing as a silly question....Agreed.
Does it need to be insulated?Meaning? With rubber around? Yes, that's better, if not mandatory.
I hate to waste cash but the wire is cheap enough.True that.
but if you wire it to another switch, how the heck does the controller know what switch is actuating?In fact, you don't just wire it to any switch, you wire it to the previous switch in the matrix, that's why you need to backtrack the nets.
Can somebody recommend a soldering iron and/or tips for jobs like this one here?Any iron with temperature regulator would work, as for the tips I'm getting good results with these (http://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B000V8GRIA) (I couldn't find on Amazon US but at least you can get the idea).
it just takes a long time to heat up.It has to, especially when you desolder. Let the iron reach the proper temperature, then clean the tip on a wet sponge until it shines. I usually turn the iron on at the max temperature and the lower it according to my needs. Desoldering usually requires higher temperatures, in my experience.
How do I tell what the previous switch is in the matrix?You follow the net from the switch pad to another. In your case, looks like the spacebar switch goes directly to the microcontroller, which makes things harder.
I did some reading and found what I thought was the previous switch in the matrix- the L Alt. I loosely wired them and when I pressed the space all I did was close the circuit for the alt switch. I found different techniques for wiring so I may not have even done it correctly. I'd be much oblidged if you could tell me the switch and technique I should wire this space bar to.Read the previous bit, just make sure you bridge the switches with the correct polarity. Meaning left pin to left pin, right pin to right pin.
Right the microcontroller is between the alt switch and space bar switch. So it sounds like this won't work, but I'll try. I'm fairly certain this happened during desoldering and the pin got too hot which burnt the pcb and traces. I like the solder braid technique better anyway and there is much less chance of damaging components. I'm buying a Weller next time and learning from these mistakes.
I'll post back and let you know what happens. So you think I should try random adjacent switches?
So you think I should try random adjacent switches?I would. It's only one switch. It would take you no more than 30 minutes.
My v60 spacebar was chattering like crazy (Gateron switches), so after firmware updates failed to solve the problem the company sent me 17 (yes 17) replacement switches to replace the defective switch. This was my first time desoldering and soldering a switch and it went without a hitch (almost).
There was a hidded screw under the keycap which I did not see and in trying to separate the board from the case I broke the mini usb port from the board like a space cadet. I included a pic which is worthless, but you can see the anchor prongs are broken. Are the any special precedures or worries or considerations I need to consider, or is this going to be cake? The part is dirt cheap. I'm not sure if it was originally soldered in. Oh yeah, it's soldered in. The old solder has to be cleaned off
Edit: If anybody needs a replacement switch I'd be happy to send it to them. I have more than I'll ever need.
I'm kind of embarrassed to have messed up something that is so elementary. But anyway what if I can find the traces running from the space bar switch in the pcb and solder a wire to that I found it and it's intact on one side.
There are a lot of people on here who are way smarter than me. If anyone has any good ideas I'd love to hear them ^-^
I'm kind of embarrassed to have messed up something that is so elementary.You learn from your mistakes, sadly mistakes in electronics cost money.
But anyway what if I can find the traces running from the space bar switch in the pcb and solder a wire to that I found it and it's intact on one side.Don't look for nets anymore. Just hotwire the spacebar switch to a random key, see what happens when you activate them.
I have hard wired the space bar switch to almost every other switch on the keyboard and all it did was actuate the switch I was wiring to. I wish I knew more about this but I don't. I have already purchased a new keyboard and am waiting for it to be shipped, but I still want to do this just to say I did. I think It's possible with more study of hard wiring and the matrix.
I have hard wired the space bar switch to almost every other switch on the keyboard and all it did was actuate the switch I was wiring to.Probably the spacebar is the first switch in the matrix, right after the controller.
I would imagine using software introduces a delayI don't know if your keyboard has a reflashable firmware, if that's the case, there would be no (extra) delay.
I would imagine using software introduces a delayI don't know if your keyboard has a reflashable firmware, if that's the case, there would be no (extra) delay.
Edit: Typo.
There is now a close parenthesis missing from this thread title.
So believe it or not I finally got the space bar switch working.I saw it coming. Congrats.
higher temps of 300-375 may have caused these tips to burn out prematurely?Most likely. You're to melt tin not steel. You don't need temperatures this high.
Anyone who has not tried Gateron Browns I highly recommend them, even over Cherry Browns, but you need to like minimal resistance and minimal tactical feedback or this switch is not for you. There is even less of a "bump" than Cherry Browns.I don't like MX Browns but I do have the feeling that Gateron is making better switches than Cherry.
I was reading about a man who claimed to use these temperatures for electronics soldering (300-375) and the higher temps of 375 through the PCB (what do I know, I'm new at this). I'm sure that this is how I destroyed the pcb. Plus, who knows how accurate the temperature gauge on the iron really is. I actually found that iron set at the lowest possible setting was perfectly adequate and the solder wick far superior even though the solder sucker seems to be much more popular.We all start somewhere. Practice makes perfect. Maybe you can build the second board for practice. Where did you order it from btw?
The first couple times I'd use a tip I would get a nice, clean, shiny, even pool of molten solder right where I wanted it to be. If you look at the images now there are areas where the solder has hardly melted enough. However, there is really no stress at these joints inside the case. If I ever get new equipment and have the case open I may redo the poorly done areas, but it seems to be making good connections and holding tight enough for now so I will leave well enough alone.
What sucks is that I ordered a replacement board because I didn't think there was a chance of it working again. Oh well, now I have two. I just need practice and some better quality toys to play with. I have many skills but it's safe to say soldering is not my forte.
Thanks for the words of encouragement and not bashing my obviously terrible job. But hey, I did a darn good job of soldering the mini-usb port I thought.
What sucks is that I ordered a replacement board because I didn't think there was a chance of it working again. Oh well, now I have two.So? I gave one custom 60% to a friend and already ordered parts for two more for myself. The more the better.
What sucks is that I ordered a replacement board because I didn't think there was a chance of it working again. Oh well, now I have two.So? I gave one custom 60% to a friend and already ordered parts for two more for myself. The more the better.
Give a try to different layouts.
what boards are you ordering?GON's, from LeandreN's GB.
what boards are you ordering?GON's, from LeandreN's GB.
what boards are you ordering?GON's, from LeandreN's GB.
What sucks is that I ordered a replacement board because I didn't think there was a chance of it working again. Oh well, now I have two.So? I gave one custom 60% to a friend and already ordered parts for two more for myself. The more the better.
Give a try to different layouts.
what boards are you ordering?
what boards are you ordering?GON's, from LeandreN's GB.
You may be curious to know that the replacement space bar switch is still chattering.It could be a board issue.
You may be curious to know that the replacement space bar switch is still chattering.It could be a board issue.
You may be curious to know that the replacement space bar switch is still chattering.It could be a board issue.
I am now getting a "usb device not recognized."Most likely the USB connector.
I do have the replacement board coming in a few days and I learned a few things.That's a good thing, you can start out fresh now.
I made a 60% with Gateron Reds for a friend and she never experienced any issue at all.
I'd be curious to get feedback from other Gateron owners. It seems you can get chatter by hitting any switch on the very edge, but in theory the spacebar is kept flat by the stabilizers.
It seems the problem is at the 5 pin contact of the mini usb with the board. They are soldered and even under magnification it's hard to tell, but something is mobile. With proper contact it is recognizable again. So this is still fixable.Fixable and easily. Just resolder it. Hold the pin you're soldering down with tweezers or a flathead screwdriver.
What I need is quality soldering tips. I think it was you Talking Tree who pointed me to a link for Amazon Spanish for 5 soldering tips. I don't know how universal these tips are. Do you think these will work with this iron that I have.It was me indeed, but those tips are solid while your iron's are hollow (or so it looks), so it won't do.
The tips now are all unusuable except for the chisel one which still works well for soldering wick. This is my iron.How unusable? Did they bend or break?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015UC2IVG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00Ask a question on that Amazon page for compatible tips. Other customers would know better.
This is what I have now and it is rated well, but I can tell you the tips are not good. I am willing to pay a good amount of money for tips that allow me to finish the job properly.
I am open for any recommendations.
The spacebar always chattered. It seems to really test the switch properly, there needs to be keycap attached to it. I'm not really sure how to do this with a spacebar unless I replace the spacebar on the cherry board with a gateron switch. I just don't understand, the firmware is supposed to ignore extra keystrokes that occur say before say 15 ms to prevent this problem from ever happening.If you think the issue is in the Gateron switch, try a different brand, it shouldn't be hard to get ahold of one single switch.
I used to have VM Ware installed with a Linux Distro and I have not used it for some time.My keyboard acts funny on Virtualbox, specifically, it won't register modifiers if I hold down the Fn key. Just a heads up in case it happens the same to you.
The tips now are all unusuable except for the chisel one which still works well for soldering wick. This is my iron.How unusable? Did they bend or break?
The tips do no get hot.The iron might be faulty, can you RMA it?
I am 85 percent certain that the problem is the switch, I just don't understand how the issue could be any other component,Such issue is either mechanical or electrical. So either the switch or the controller.
I thought the firmware was supposed to be able to filter out and extra keystrokesMaybe a faulty firmware? Can you reflash it?
There is something else i noticed is that the steell plate is bent right at the space bar. I would not be surprised if that plays a key role in the chatterI would be surprised if it does not. A deformed support could affect the switch in multiple ways.
I have the replacement board and not a single switch chatters. I can try bending the steep plate level and see if that has an effect.Try heating the plate before unbending.
I have the replacement board and not a single switch chatters. I can try bending the steep plate level and see if that has an effect.Try heating the plate before unbending.
I have the replacement board and not a single switch chatters. I can try bending the steel plate level and see if that has an effect.
Try heating the plate before unbending.
I experienced many issues similar to the ones you have described that ended up stemming from the soldering iron I happened to be using at the time. I was using a Weller SP40NKUS which is a 40w iron and does not have any kind of temperature control. I was constantly burning PCBs, lifting pads and going through tips like you would not believe. Come to find out, the iron was running at about 480c (eek!). Shortly thereafter, I switched to a Weller WES51 which has a proper temperature control circuit and have not had any issues with tips degrading or burned PCBs and I get perfect joints almost every time.
It doesn't take much heat to melt solder, however, the heat has to be able to transfer into the solder to do what it's supposed to. If there is a layer of oxidation insulating either the pad or your iron's tip, heat will not be transferred. It seems you were experiencing this problem as you said your tips were oxidizing quickly (possibly from the iron being too hot or just low quality tips). In response, you increased the heat of your iron which likely only exacerbated the problem, causing the tip to oxidize further while still not conducting heat properly.
You could try using some better quality tips or a different iron which has better temperature control. Try to keep the heat a little lower to avoid corroding the tips as quickly and prevent damage to the PCB. I usually keep my iron set around 350c for this kind of work. Simultaneously heat the pad and pin directly with the tip and flow the solder onto the pad, not the iron. The solder should melt almost instantly. If it does not, remove the iron and investigate what is preventing the heat from transferring properly. Try using some flux on the pad and keep your iron's tip tinned. Clean the tip with one of those brass wool tip cleaners and re-tin the tip. You shouldn't have to leave the tip on the pad for more than a couple of seconds maximum. Using a good rosin-core solder helps as well.
As far as the chattering, there were some issues with the Zealio switches (also manufactured by Gateron) chattering after being soldered if too much heat was applied as the bottom of the casing would melt a little bit around the pins, altering the shape of the leaf inside the switch. I don't have any standard Gateron switches lying around to test so I'm not sure if they also have this issue. Obviously if the original switch was chattering right out of the box this probably isn't its problem but it might explain the replacement switch chattering as well.MoreNote the melting around the pins of the switch on the right.Show Image(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5800/22718147712_22ec4ba3ea_k.jpg)
Good luck with your board!