Very nice project xondat!
I'm thinking about doing the same but instead of acrylic I'll go for anodized aluminum. The thing is that I don't have LED's to make the acrylic look good, so might as well go for a heavy solid case. My board is a V60 and it would be awesome if I could avail of your renders and measurements, with your permission of course.
What's the current state of the project?
that looks really cool!
would this be a clear acrylic? or frosted?
That is the nicest acrylic I've seen. I'd be down for one if you ever get a few more made.
I have a cheapo TB one that I actually really like because of its angle, but it's not anywhere near resembling yours.
Keep in mind, you will need access to a 2.5D CNC and something like a Haas Mill would do quite nicely
Also, if not planning on milling your own plate, you should look at the plate templates that others have created. Just about every plate you buy has a curved edge rather than a straight one.
I have a few of the LeandreN plates and they are quite nice, especially for the price. Speaking from experience here, you would want those to be either Water-jetted or Laser cut. If you lived in Dallas, I could help you with this stuff as the Dallas Makerspace has everything other than the WaterJet. Though we do have an industrial mill that is tight enough to do plates, but the bits are very expensive.
Here is a plate for you, output from builder.swillkb.com :)
Where are you sourcing your acrylic? I'm surprised you can get a chunk that big for under 50 dollars.
Version 1 is complete!
I don't have any immediate changes that I want to make but I may consider things like curving the edges. I probably will have to change the size and placement of the USB port to make it universal but I think it will do for now. I'm still wary of the standoffs probably being incorrect but they are directly in the same position as the CAD file jdcarpe kindly provided. Overall size of the uncut block I'll require is 292.000293 x 100.780545 x 25mm (WxLxH) and I've left 0.5mm on each side of the plate as a margin. Any feedback, positive or negative I'll take, as it is a personal project but I want everyone's opinions on it.
Here are the pictures:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3DyTQZt.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ojNb9cU.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ynHi6Tl.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VdlmJ5W.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZhbtKsW.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RAiivPc.jpg)
It looks awesome, are you considering to get a prototype manufactured?
It's looking fabulous and assuming compatibility with the V60, a frosted acrylic or anodized aluminum version of this case would perfectly fit my needs. :thumb:
It is using the universal plate that jdcarpe and leandren sell so if that's compatible then yes it is. Do you think you could provide me with the measurements for the V60's standoffs? I can check that way too ans it would be good to know.
I'm currently being quoted for clear acrylic, frosted acrylic and aluminum.
It looks very cool, and maybe I can provide some measurement. So just PM me when you need some help.I need as many as I can because I'm paranoid I'll get it wrong, PM me when you have time!
It's very exciting to hear that you're already being quoted for the case in such materials, this is a very cool project and I can't wait to see the first prototype!I'm most likely ordering Friday so if I get them by then it's fine, if not then it's okay because the first one is a prototype. JD actually linked me the plate that I modelled around in the screenshot, so everything fits in that department.
I believe I can provide you with the measurements, but it would take a couple of days to get an answer because I'm gonna ask other owners and different people. Unfortunately I don't have the required tools right now with me, but I will do my best to gather the information from different sources. If the plate is universal, than its gonna work but I'll try to confirm the exact V60 numbers. I speak with LeandreN very frequently so it shouldn't be a problem. I will also consult other V60 owners and Massdrop too. Can you check with JD?
Xondat, you mentioned a very high cost for aluminum. I wonder if it is possible to do cast aluminum instead of CNC, that might cost much less. The raw aluminum itself is inexpensive.
Xondat, you mentioned a very high cost for aluminum. I wonder if it is possible to do cast aluminum instead of CNC, that might cost much less. The raw aluminum itself is inexpensive.I shall investigate.
hey look!Maybe you can expand and show me how they're similar? I'm always taking feedback so as long as there's evidence behind it then I'll alter it accordingly, BUT it is a personal project for now and also acrylic and not the same material as he used.
its ducks case design!
hey look!
its ducks case design!
hey look!
its ducks case design!
Acrylic would be more expensive than aluminum? Really? Why TEX cases are the opposite? The same design is always cheaper in acrylic.
Acrylic would be more expensive than aluminum? Really? Why TEX cases are the opposite? The same design is always cheaper in acrylic.
I think he meant a cheaper aluminum case compared to the previous estimates, not to the acrylic ones ;)
Acrylic would be more expensive than aluminum? Really? Why TEX cases are the opposite? The same design is always cheaper in acrylic.
I think he meant a cheaper aluminum case compared to the previous estimates, not to the acrylic ones ;)
It makes sense.
Tuesday Update:
Great news for V60 users, as yesterday I had the chance to compare standoffs and measurements with multiple people. It turns out that the KBParadise V60 Mini (with Cherry MX or Gateron switches) has 4 screwing holes positioned in the exact same place as 4 (out of the 6 total screws) from the Poker II. I'll attach some pictures for reference below.MorePoker II:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JJeJzDN.jpg)KBParadise V60 (Cherry MX or Gateron switches):Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vP8awFc.jpg)Current case prototype:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/L60tgWM.png)
As you can see, it's completely possible to use custom plates (LeandreN/JD) and cases, given the standoffs positioning. One important thing to note is that the same does not apply to the KBParadise V60 Mini with Matias switches. Such version doesn't have holes in the plate and you'll have to mod it a little bit in order to make a custom case fit. Check this guide right here (http://imgur.com/a/AvH1R), in case you have a V60 Mini with Matias switches and want a custom case.
For now that's pretty much it, as I'm currently standing by for the exact standoff numbers. I'll most likely take the numbers provided here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=66787.msg1565870#msg1565870) and move forward because LivingSpeedBump has been very busy lately and I don't think he'll be able to deliver before xondat's deadline (Friday, December 18 - 2015). In a couple of weeks I'll begin to visit some CNC aluminum and acrylic companies here in Brazil in the hopes of perhaps offering a cheaper aluminum version for the buy.
Acrylic would be more expensive than aluminum? Really? Why TEX cases are the opposite? The same design is always cheaper in acrylic.
I think he meant a cheaper aluminum case compared to the previous estimates, not to the acrylic ones ;)
It makes sense.
Yeah, that's what I meant. Unfortunately xandot's current quotes for CNC aluminum are extremely steep and I'm trying to find a cheaper manufacturer here in Brazil. Xandot is looking on UK.
Day 7:Tuesday Update:
Great news for V60 users, as yesterday I had the chance to compare standoffs and measurements with multiple people. It turns out that the KBParadise V60 Mini (with Cherry MX or Gateron switches) has 4 screwing holes positioned in the exact same place as 4 (out of the 6 total screws) from the Poker II. I'll attach some pictures for reference below.MorePoker II:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JJeJzDN.jpg)KBParadise V60 (Cherry MX or Gateron switches):Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vP8awFc.jpg)Current case prototype:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/L60tgWM.png)
As you can see, it's completely possible to use custom plates (LeandreN/JD) and cases, given the standoffs positioning. One important thing to note is that the same does not apply to the KBParadise V60 Mini with Matias switches. Such version doesn't have holes in the plate and you'll have to mod it a little bit in order to make a custom case fit. Check this guide right here (http://imgur.com/a/AvH1R), in case you have a V60 Mini with Matias switches and want a custom case.
For now that's pretty much it, as I'm currently standing by for the exact standoff numbers. I'll most likely take the numbers provided here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=66787.msg1565870#msg1565870) and move forward because LivingSpeedBump has been very busy lately and I don't think he'll be able to deliver before xondat's deadline (Friday, December 18 - 2015). In a couple of weeks I'll begin to visit some CNC aluminum and acrylic companies here in Brazil in the hopes of perhaps offering a cheaper aluminum version for the buy.
MiTo - the man of the hour. Thanks so much for this detail overview and research. :-*Acrylic would be more expensive than aluminum? Really? Why TEX cases are the opposite? The same design is always cheaper in acrylic.
I think he meant a cheaper aluminum case compared to the previous estimates, not to the acrylic ones ;)
It makes sense.
I'm confused on how you came to this conclusion; I think I meant I'll focus on acrylic instead of aluminium because of the massive starting price.Yeah, that's what I meant. Unfortunately xandot's current quotes for CNC aluminum are extremely steep and I'm trying to find a cheaper manufacturer here in Brazil. Xandot is looking on UK.
Xondat not xandot ;) Speaking of cheaper manufacturers, good news follows below.---------
Today I got my 2nd quote back for aluminium - IT'S GREAT NEWS! It's 220 ea for 25 made and 210 ea for 50! Compared to the previous quote of 450 ea for 20. I might consider involving aluminium if I run a group buy, which I really want to now. Prices however are not final due to shipping and fees, if I were to sell them. If they are still too high, I may be able to hustle them down a bit more.
I will now pursue acrylic prices for clear and frosted. But due to me having no idea how to use any program that makes STL, STEP, IGS or PARASOLID the companies are having some trouble. If anyone can help me here, then I'll pay you as long as it's identical, PM me so we can work something out.
No design changes over the past couple of days, and none are needed because of MiTo being extremely kind and helpful, providing me with a mass of detail. :thumb:
Today I got my 2nd quote back for aluminium - IT'S GREAT NEWS! It's 220 ea for 25 made and 210 ea for 50! Compared to the previous quote of 450 ea for 20. I might consider involving aluminium if I run a group buy, which I really want to now. Prices however are not final due to shipping and fees, if I were to sell them. If they are still too high, I may be able to hustle them down a bit more.
I will now pursue acrylic prices for clear and frosted. But due to me having no idea how to use any program that makes STL, STEP, IGS or PARASOLID the companies are having some trouble. If anyone can help me here, then I'll pay you as long as it's identical, PM me so we can work something out.
No design changes over the past couple of days, and none are needed because of MiTo being extremely kind and helpful, providing me with a mass of detail. :thumb:
Today I got my 2nd quote back for aluminium - IT'S GREAT NEWS! It's 220 ea for 25 made and 210 ea for 50! Compared to the previous quote of 450 ea for 20. I might consider involving aluminium if I run a group buy, which I really want to now. Prices however are not final due to shipping and fees, if I were to sell them. If they are still too high, I may be able to hustle them down a bit more.
I will now pursue acrylic prices for clear and frosted. But due to me having no idea how to use any program that makes STL, STEP, IGS or PARASOLID the companies are having some trouble. If anyone can help me here, then I'll pay you as long as it's identical, PM me so we can work something out.
No design changes over the past couple of days, and none are needed because of MiTo being extremely kind and helpful, providing me with a mass of detail. :thumb:
I wouldn't be able to make such a detailed research without the help of LeandreN so a big shoutout to the man. Also, I promise to never confuse your ID anymore.
Regarding aluminum, I find fantastic that you managed to cut the price by half, that's an exciting start indeed. What are the aluminuim specs for the $210/50 version? Do you think you could provide colored anodized? I believe some people would be super hyped about this possibility. Obviously, the smart thing to do here is to chop down the prices as much as you possibly can without compromising quality, finish and looks, to attract buyers. I'd recomend you to see what else you can do in this department. As I stated before, I'll be able to make some visits and ask for quotes in a couple of weeks. I'll try my best to gather as much infomartion as possible, for both acrylic and aluminum. Let's see how it pans out.
Regarding the design, the manufacturer can't work with standard CAD files?
Would def be in for a frosted one.
Definitely interested, but... blah 60% :-\Yeah I know the market essentially has too many 60%; I did this because I ordered a carbon fibre plate and want to show that and the PCB off. I might make a case for either a TKL or a 75% (using the B.mini PCB).
there's already so many good options for 60%, the other sizes, notably 75% and TKL, need some more love!
Definitely interested, but... blah 60% :-\
there's already so many good options for 60%, the other sizes, notably 75% and TKL, need some more love!
rounded corners into the design instead of sharp cut edges.
rounded corners into the design instead of sharp cut edges.
WhiteFox style?
Sort of, more subtle. Its really so I don't stab myself when I pick it up.
Count me in for an acrylic one. It is a very nice design. Where do you plan to move it to the IC phase?Where or when? When would be before the new year as long as the 3D prints get here. Making 1 acrylic case is way too costly so I'm taking a most cost effective measure.
Count me in for an acrylic one. It is a very nice design. Where do you plan to move it to the IC phase?Where or when? When would be before the new year as long as the 3D prints get here. Making 1 acrylic case is way too costly so I'm taking a most cost effective measure.
You need to add fillets to internal edges to allow them to be machined.
Looks good. You need to add fillets to internal edges to allow them to be machined. I would recommend you add fillets to some of the outer edges too, and chamfers along the top rim.Can you expand on what you mean? I've self taught everything and I don't even know what's right and wrong so far.
I'm not entirely sure this is necessary, do you have a source?It's necessary. If this is to be CNC milled from a solid block of material then the internal edges must have radii. This is a limitation of milling.
Can you expand on what you mean? I've self taught everything and I don't even know what's right and wrong so far.I will do my best. I will try and give an explanation assuming no prior knowledge in order to make it as simple as possible.
Why would I need to do this?
I'm not entirely sure this is necessary, do you have a source?It's necessary. If this is to be CNC milled from a solid block of material then the internal edges must have radii. This is a limitation of milling.Can you expand on what you mean? I've self taught everything and I don't even know what's right and wrong so far.I will do my best. I will try and give an explanation assuming no prior knowledge in order to make it as simple as possible.
Why would I need to do this?
First, I used the word 'fillet'. Here is the definition of that word : In mechanical engineering, a fillet /ˈfɪlɨt/ is a rounding of an interior or exterior corner of a part design.
That is, to give an edge a fillet is to give it a radius.
An internal edge with a fillet/An internal edge with a radius :Show Image(http://puu.sh/m2FRp/a2880471bf.jpg)
An internal edge without a fillet/An internal edge without a radius :Show Image(http://puu.sh/m2FXn/86733f57f3.jpg)
First, understand the basic concept of milling : You have a cutter that spins in order to move material. This cutter (in the case of a 3-axis mill, for example) can move along three axes : x,y,z. In other words : left and right, forward and backward, up and down. CNC mills are exactly the same, but the movements along the axes are precisely controlled with motors and a numerical input, rather than manually controlled.
These cutters come in many shapes and sizes. You have ones for cutting regular holes that look like drillbits, you have these (http://g02.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1RnliIpXXXXXPXFXXq6xXFXXXR/Hypo-Tool-3Pcs-Set-Of-16-5mm-20-5mm-25mm-90-Degree-Chamfering-End-Mill-font.jpg) for cutting chamfers.
However, regardless of the shape and size of the cutter, one thing remains constant : They spin in a circle. Therefore, they CANNOT form internal square edges! All internal edges MUST have a radius.
For example, the below would not be possible :Show Image(http://puu.sh/m2FqP/37da01c95f.png)
However, the below would be possible, since cutters can form those circular edges. Note that EXTERNAL square edges are absolutely possible, just not INTERNAL ones :Show Image(http://puu.sh/m2FtI/3482c51bbf.png)
It may be helpful to imagine a cutter as a cylinder, which removes any material that any part of that cylinder touches. Realise that this cannot possibly form square internal edges.
I do hope this helps to explain things.
---
I recommend giving external edges fillets too for aesthetics, and so that people don't cut themselves on those sharp edges! I recommend giving the top rim chamfers (like this (http://puu.sh/m2G2X/6a34046f3f.png) for the same reasons.
Oh yeah, those aren't necessary (although do give more support for the PCB). They definitely aren't fillets either :))
MoreI'm not entirely sure this is necessary, do you have a source?It's necessary. If this is to be CNC milled from a solid block of material then the internal edges must have radii. This is a limitation of milling.Can you expand on what you mean? I've self taught everything and I don't even know what's right and wrong so far.I will do my best. I will try and give an explanation assuming no prior knowledge in order to make it as simple as possible.
Why would I need to do this?
First, I used the word 'fillet'. Here is the definition of that word : In mechanical engineering, a fillet /ˈfɪlɨt/ is a rounding of an interior or exterior corner of a part design.
That is, to give an edge a fillet is to give it a radius.
An internal edge with a fillet/An internal edge with a radius :Show Image(http://puu.sh/m2FRp/a2880471bf.jpg)
An internal edge without a fillet/An internal edge without a radius :Show Image(http://puu.sh/m2FXn/86733f57f3.jpg)
First, understand the basic concept of milling : You have a cutter that spins in order to move material. This cutter (in the case of a 3-axis mill, for example) can move along three axes : x,y,z. In other words : left and right, forward and backward, up and down. CNC mills are exactly the same, but the movements along the axes are precisely controlled with motors and a numerical input, rather than manually controlled.
These cutters come in many shapes and sizes. You have ones for cutting regular holes that look like drillbits, you have these (http://g02.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1RnliIpXXXXXPXFXXq6xXFXXXR/Hypo-Tool-3Pcs-Set-Of-16-5mm-20-5mm-25mm-90-Degree-Chamfering-End-Mill-font.jpg) for cutting chamfers.
However, regardless of the shape and size of the cutter, one thing remains constant : They spin in a circle. Therefore, they CANNOT form internal square edges! All internal edges MUST have a radius.
For example, the below would not be possible :Show Image(http://puu.sh/m2FqP/37da01c95f.png)
However, the below would be possible, since cutters can form those circular edges. Note that EXTERNAL square edges are absolutely possible, just not INTERNAL ones :Show Image(http://puu.sh/m2FtI/3482c51bbf.png)
It may be helpful to imagine a cutter as a cylinder, which removes any material that any part of that cylinder touches. Realise that this cannot possibly form square internal edges.
I do hope this helps to explain things.
---
I recommend giving external edges fillets too for aesthetics, and so that people don't cut themselves on those sharp edges! I recommend giving the top rim chamfers (like this (http://puu.sh/m2G2X/6a34046f3f.png) for the same reasons.
Final update post here before I post an interest check as everything is done in the design department and I don't want to be double posting in the future.
3D print samples are on the way, 3D printing the prototype will cost me $130 which is steep but it's also a usable case. As long as the measurements work out correctly then, with enough interest, the group buy should start.
Options I'll be offering are:
- Clear Acrylic
- Frosted Acrylic
- Anodized Aluminium
- 4 community chosen colors
If there is interest behind colored acrylic, then I can research this. I want to keep the different variations to a minimum though.
Interest check will start by the end of the week.
For now, here is a 3D model preview of the case:Show Image(https://i.gyazo.com/9a37f3c8734bda01c0af7f59b89f4e86.gif)
Regarding KBP V60 boards with Matias switches, I heard from a KBP rep that they will be releasing a revised board that will have 3 holes in the PCB and plate suitable for mounting in standard 60% cases. The ETA was late December 2015. We shall see....
Regarding KBP V60 boards with Matias switches, I heard from a KBP rep that they will be releasing a revised board that will have 3 holes in the PCB and plate suitable for mounting in standard 60% cases. The ETA was late December 2015. We shall see....
Really?!
That's super cool, I'm really looking forward this information.
Is there any specific place I could look?