geekhack
geekhack Community => Off Topic => Topic started by: tp4tissue on Wed, 16 December 2015, 05:54:22
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Do you guys have this problem...
Like.. I just got this new bottle of this lube.. and I'm like putting it on everything that mechanically moves..
Even things that prolly doesn't need it..
For example, I completely took apart my stapler and lubed every moving part..
Then I took apart my wireless mouse and lubed the wheel..
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I found a box of WD40 at work once. I proceeded to APPLY it to the hinge mechanisms of about 10 storage connexes just for the pleasure of that smooth opening action. Man i crave WD40 now.
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TP
Why are you the single weirdest, but yet most endearing person in off topic
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There is always time for lube.
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I found a box of WD40 at work once. I proceeded to APPLY it to the hinge mechanisms of about 10 storage connexes just for the pleasure of that smooth opening action. Man i crave WD40 now.
WD40 is not lube. It's a "loosening agent." It has a lubricating effect when first applied but it goes away pretty quickly.
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TP
Why are you the single weirdest, but yet most endearing person in off topic
I use up all-the-normal during the day when I have to talk to OTHER-people AFK..
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I found a box of WD40 at work once. I proceeded to APPLY it to the hinge mechanisms of about 10 storage connexes just for the pleasure of that smooth opening action. Man i crave WD40 now.
WD40 is not lube. It's a "loosening agent." It has a lubricating effect when first applied but it goes away pretty quickly.
xPERT Information (http://www.cute-factor.com/images/smilies/onion/th_113_.gif)
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It's not a good idea to lube mechanical things that should not be lubed, especially if exposed to the environment.
For example your stapler is probably going to gunk up, and your mouse will probably die a tragic death due to the dust that gets trapped by the lube. A dry lube (graphite, wax based, etc...) is a better option for exposed parts as it doesn't attract or retain dust. The dust, besides gumming things up, can also act as grit and cause increased wear. In a few weeks the hinge (or the mouse) may feel even more gritty and have more friction that even before you lubed it, and once that wear starts, it's a loosing battle from then on.
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It's not a good idea to lube mechanical things that should not be lubed, especially if exposed to the environment.
For example your stapler is probably going to gunk up, and your mouse will probably die a tragic death due to the dust that gets trapped by the lube. A dry lube (graphite, wax based, etc...) is a better option for exposed parts as it doesn't attract or retain dust. The dust, besides gumming things up, can also act as grit and cause increased wear. In a few weeks the hinge (or the mouse) may feel even more gritty and have more friction that even before you lubed it, and once that wear starts, it's a loosing battle from then on.
inb4 tp gets di** infection/allergic reaction because he used dry lube
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It's not a good idea to lube mechanical things that should not be lubed, especially if exposed to the environment.
For example your stapler is probably going to gunk up, and your mouse will probably die a tragic death due to the dust that gets trapped by the lube. A dry lube (graphite, wax based, etc...) is a better option for exposed parts as it doesn't attract or retain dust. The dust, besides gumming things up, can also act as grit and cause increased wear. In a few weeks the hinge (or the mouse) may feel even more gritty and have more friction that even before you lubed it, and once that wear starts, it's a loosing battle from then on.
hahaha..
I'm pretty sure the mouse is supposed to be lubed, otherwise it wouldn't already haz the lube on it..
The stapler perhaps.. but I do notice that all the moving mechanisms are "covered"
So dust buildup is going to be insignificant.
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(http://threewordphrase.com/pardonme.gif)
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tp4 is turning into mkawa. :eek: I swear, that guy lubed everything he could get his hands on. :))
And yeah don't use WD40 for lube. WD = Water Displacement. It's great for getting into little nooks and crannies and cleaning things out, and technically does contain an oil which would lube things temporarily but it's not very long lasting and is very far from the ideal lube/oil in most scenarios.
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I found a box of WD40 at work once. I proceeded to APPLY it to the hinge mechanisms of about 10 storage connexes just for the pleasure of that smooth opening action. Man i crave WD40 now.
WD40 is not lube. It's a "loosening agent." It has a lubricating effect when first applied but it goes away pretty quickly.
Myth: WD-40® Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.
Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40® stands for Water Displacement, WD-40® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
The website appears to hint that the formula contains lubricant. So although i understand what you are saying, part of that loosening effect is caused by lubricant
therefore still relavent if you consider the lunrication of dirt for the purpose of removal as lubrication.
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I found a box of WD40 at work once. I proceeded to APPLY it to the hinge mechanisms of about 10 storage connexes just for the pleasure of that smooth opening action. Man i crave WD40 now.
WD40 is not lube. It's a "loosening agent." It has a lubricating effect when first applied but it goes away pretty quickly.
Myth: WD-40® Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.
Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40® stands for Water Displacement, WD-40® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
The website appears to hint that the formula contains lubricant. So although i understand what you are saying, part of that loosening effect is caused by lubricant
therefore still relavent if you consider the lunrication of dirt for the purpose of removal as lubrication.
Hrrrm..............
I've used WD40 before, and it stops being "smooth" after only a few days..
But this may be because I've used it in rusty situations where the rust would -re-gunk- ?
Not totes sure.
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I found a box of WD40 at work once. I proceeded to APPLY it to the hinge mechanisms of about 10 storage connexes just for the pleasure of that smooth opening action. Man i crave WD40 now.
WD40 is not lube. It's a "loosening agent." It has a lubricating effect when first applied but it goes away pretty quickly.
Myth: WD-40® Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.
Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40® stands for Water Displacement, WD-40® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
The website appears to hint that the formula contains lubricant. So although i understand what you are saying, part of that loosening effect is caused by lubricant
therefore still relavent if you consider the lunrication of dirt for the purpose of removal as lubrication.
Hrrrm..............
I've used WD40 before, and it stops being "smooth" after only a few days..
But this may be because I've used it in rusty situations where the rust would -re-gunk- ?
Not totes sure.
I'm pretty sure it's all just fairly volatile components, so they evaporate quick.
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hahaha..
I'm pretty sure the mouse is supposed to be lubed, otherwise it wouldn't already haz the lube on it..
The stapler perhaps.. but I do notice that all the moving mechanisms are "covered"
So dust buildup is going to be insignificant.
There's a reason they were lubed how they were (or not lubed), you didn't add anything except change the dynamics, and probably for the worst in the long run.
Being covered is like handing someone a hat in a rain storm, it might keep their head dry, but it's not protecting much else.
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I lubed my ball today... er that is my CST Trackball. It's now even more glorious.
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This is what happens when you start lubing everything.
(http://49.media.tumblr.com/15bbdf8b73e417e90dbec795293b7736/tumblr_n3w7da4UFV1tsuuvno4_250.gif)
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I have this problem at times, i got some really good teflon based dry lube the other week for my bike that i acctually have a lubing schedule for..... but anyway i proceeded to lube anything that i could think of around the house that would benefit from a dry lube, like my electric shaver, some droor slider's, i acctually did lube the wheel on my corsair M90 because i love the way a smooth scrolling heavy scroll wheel feels. Then i ended pulling a few of my old box fans apart to clean and lube the brass bearing inserts, but they really did need it though i'm not sure if a teflon lube is best for that application. I usually use petroleum jelly on basic motor bearings and reapply fairly often.
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I have this problem at times, i got some really good teflon based dry lube the other week for my bike that i acctually have a lubing schedule for..... but anyway i proceeded to lube anything that i could think of around the house that would benefit from a dry lube, like my electric shaver, some droor slider's, i acctually did lube the wheel on my corsair M90 because i love the way a smooth scrolling heavy scroll wheel feels. Then i ended pulling a few of my old box fans apart to clean and lube the brass bearing inserts, but they really did need it though i'm not sure if a teflon lube is best for that application. I usually use petroleum jelly on basic motor bearings and reapply fairly often.
I've found that petroleum jelly dries too fast..
I think large fans need a higher viscosity lube because they're big and hot in operation.
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I lubed my ball today... er that is my CST Trackball. It's now even more glorious.
Fellow cst trackball user reporting in what did you use and was it for the rollers?
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I lubed my ball today... er that is my CST Trackball. It's now even more glorious.
Fellow cst trackball user reporting in what did you use and was it for the rollers?
if it's low force and low heat, all you need is a light oil..
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I lubed my ball today... er that is my CST Trackball. It's now even more glorious.
Fellow cst trackball user reporting in what did you use and was it for the rollers?
if it's low force and low heat, all you need is a light oil..
What about a synthetic lube like one they use for watches?
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I lubed my ball today... er that is my CST Trackball. It's now even more glorious.
Fellow cst trackball user reporting in what did you use and was it for the rollers?
if it's low force and low heat, all you need is a light oil..
What about a synthetic lube like one they use for watches?
Yea watch oil would be fine.
Buhhhhh since you will be touching this stuff, Do look at the chemical composition to check that its toxicity.
Ofcourse it's gonna say non-toxic on the box, but long term exposure is different than, will it kill you on contact.
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I lubed my ball today... er that is my CST Trackball. It's now even more glorious.
Fellow cst trackball user reporting in what did you use and was it for the rollers?
if it's low force and low heat, all you need is a light oil..
What about a synthetic lube like one they use for watches?
Yea watch oil would be fine.
Buhhhhh since you will be touching this stuff, Do look at the chemical composition to check that its toxicity.
Ofcourse it's gonna say non-toxic on the box, but long term exposure is different than, will it kill you on contact.
But i have been seasoning ramen with it for years.
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I lubed my ball today... er that is my CST Trackball. It's now even more glorious.
Fellow cst trackball user reporting in what did you use and was it for the rollers?
if it's low force and low heat, all you need is a light oil..
What about a synthetic lube like one they use for watches?
Yea watch oil would be fine.
Buhhhhh since you will be touching this stuff, Do look at the chemical composition to check that its toxicity.
Ofcourse it's gonna say non-toxic on the box, but long term exposure is different than, will it kill you on contact.
But i have been seasoning ramen with it for years.
hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
well, they make ramen on machines.. so theoretically, if you've eaten alotta ramen, you've eaten plenty of machine grease..
If it leads to an early demise, so be it.
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I lubed my ball today... er that is my CST Trackball. It's now even more glorious.
Fellow cst trackball user reporting in what did you use and was it for the rollers?
I used some leftover thick krytox mix lube for the rollers. But I imagine any synthetic oil should work.
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I lubed my ball today... er that is my CST Trackball. It's now even more glorious.
Fellow cst trackball user reporting in what did you use and was it for the rollers?
I used some leftover thick krytox mix lube for the rollers. But I imagine any synthetic oil should work.
Cool thanks for the response, i will look at watch oil but i think it may cost a fortune (just guessing as i doubt a wattch requires much lube) i need to do the roller on my steel series sensi so can double tap that task
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I lubed my ball today... er that is my CST Trackball. It's now even more glorious.
Fellow cst trackball user reporting in what did you use and was it for the rollers?
I used some leftover thick krytox mix lube for the rollers. But I imagine any synthetic oil should work.
Cool thanks for the response, i will look at watch oil but i think it may cost a fortune (just guessing as i doubt a wattch requires much lube) i need to do the roller on my steel series sensi so can double tap that task
You could also use some of that Super Lube pen from Amazon. I believe it's like $3.
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I have never lubed my keyboard before but i suppose the shift and enter key on my MX clears could use a little lube. Should i do it?
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I have never lubed my keyboard before but i suppose the shift and enter key on my MX clears could use a little lube. Should i do it?
modern clears and tactile greys feel a thousand times better with lube. DO EET
(no that's not an exaggeration. without lube it's scratchy and terrible)
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I have this problem at times, i got some really good teflon based dry lube the other week for my bike that i acctually have a lubing schedule for..... but anyway i proceeded to lube anything that i could think of around the house that would benefit from a dry lube, like my electric shaver, some droor slider's, i acctually did lube the wheel on my corsair M90 because i love the way a smooth scrolling heavy scroll wheel feels. Then i ended pulling a few of my old box fans apart to clean and lube the brass bearing inserts, but they really did need it though i'm not sure if a teflon lube is best for that application. I usually use petroleum jelly on basic motor bearings and reapply fairly often.
I've found that petroleum jelly dries too fast..
I think large fans need a higher viscosity lube because they're big and hot in operation.
I definitely should get something more purpose made next time i do it, or use something more like the high temp thick bearing grease i have laying around somewhere.
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WD40 will make gunked stuff move again and can flush out dirt, but you have to lube it with something permanent after you cleaned and dried it.
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I had this can of spray lubricant. Not wd40 but something else. Man that stuff was amazing. Sprayed in door knobs, car door hinges, a fan, and then afterwards the fridge's door.
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Does the stapler feel any different now that you've lubed it?
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Does the stapler feel any different now that you've lubed it?
The hinge is smoother.. and the magazine seems more responsive now that the inside's slippery-er.