geekhack
geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: bmilcs on Sun, 07 February 2016, 22:14:15
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I gathered enough courage to modify my first and only mechanical keyboard. I gathered my supplies for an ergo-clear mod on my KUL ES-87 and went to work.
Before even touching my soldering iron, this dreaded 5-pin 1 row connector entered my path. I struggled with the beast for sometime and it simply crumbled into pieces. I now have 5 lose wires w/ the metal attachments still on. I have another post dedicated to the issue but I am very frustrated and hoping to get a definitive answer to my question by posting in another area...
A) Is this the correct replacement part?
http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?R=87369-0500virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-87369-0500
I looked at the data sheet but I can't tell by the dimensions or the shape if this is the right item.
B) How do I properly disconnect this wire in the future?
I have tried once again to remove the other end of the wire from the small USB connector board and it won't BUDGE. I've wiggled it to... fro... up ... down. I am at my wit's end!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1614/24258935284_1623ec98d2_k.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1543/24260220743_78d172c6fd_k.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1538/24887083415_9e686e4608_k.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1527/24494118349_a76667b145_k.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1671/24743836262_6f55c428e4_k.jpg)
A friendly member of the forum directed me to these images:
(http://www.hardcoreware.net/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/KUL-ES-87-backplate.jpg)
(http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2074590/)
That white molex 5-pin connector is MIA. I lost it in the shuffle.
I must be losing my mind because everyone says it just comes out but it won't nudge.
Can someone please help me? I am sorry for the double post but I am now on a nasty rubber dome keyboard and it's making me die a little on the inside. I will be without a mechanical keyboard for some time I take it until I can figure this whole thing out.
On the bright side, I took my frustration out on my keyboard and desoldered every MX switch successfully. Very satisfying as it is the first time I've touched a soldering iron. I clipped my stabs on all modifiers, lubed them and created ergo clears for those keys ... and lubed mx grey for space bar.
I greatly, GREATLY appreciate this forum and the information.. group buys... and so on.
RESCUE ME GEEKHACK!
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I can't say with more than 80% certainty, but it looks like the correct molex connector.
Usually if I have a stubborn molex or other similar connector, I will dislodge it with a !!tiny!! amount of wd40 and/or flathead jewelers screwdrivers.
There's also extractor tools that work ok, but they're expensive and unnecessary.
Hope you get it fixed up soon!
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I got a response from KUL and said they were sending me a new cable. However, it's been 12 days and no luck so far.
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Hang in there and good luck!
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It's on the way! =] Took a few e-mails but I have shipping confirmation. So, I took some extra time and lubed all 87 switches. Tonight I'm soldering them all into place... my first soldering experience that I can verify I made a connection with :)
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Hey folks! I just wanted to provide a positive update!!!
My wire finally came! And I am now typing on my Ergo Clear 78g modded KUL! Yeehaw! Typing on these keys is sooo very different. Super smooth... doesn't even feel like Cherry MX anymore ;)
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Hey folks! I just wanted to provide a positive update!!!
My wire finally came! And I am now typing on my Ergo Clear 78g modded KUL! Yeehaw! Typing on these keys is sooo very different. Super smooth... doesn't even feel like Cherry MX anymore ;)
KUL's support is fantastic they even repaired a switch for a friend of mine who yanked a switch out replacing caps on the board, no charge no questions just did it for him.
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I agree. I am very, very happy with them. I need to post about it on Reddit.
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I managed to damage the little USB connector board and cable too! I hope KUL take pity on me.
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Dude! Right? Mine was seriously like cemented in there. I tried every angle, multiple tools and so on and it wouldnt budge. Fortunately, it still works even though it sits loose on the pcb. My Pok3r was super easy to remove.