I have cracked open a couple of dozen Model Fs and I would say that this foam/rust/scum situation is just about average.the case isn't straight across, curves down the middle which I tried to capture here against a straight ruler:
What metal-working repairs do you need a shop for?
I believe it should be 1/16 thick but don't know if I should be going with neoprene, silicone, or ensolite or some kinda art foam, or open cell or closed cell
that any rustoleum spray paint be good for this? I plan on spraying primer first then a rustoleum paint but again overwhelmed with the choices.
many thanks for the advice. I am ordering primer and the hammered paint now.. gonna try to go a little out of the box and try the hammered light blue color. I was considering leaving the case alone, but when I screw the top and bottom together tight, I can see the that curvature of the case actually presses against the plate and causes the plate to curve a bit also. I'll definitely consult a few shops around my area on how difficult it might be before pulling the trigger.I believe it should be 1/16 thick but don't know if I should be going with neoprene, silicone, or ensolite or some kinda art foam, or open cell or closed cell
that any rustoleum spray paint be good for this? I plan on spraying primer first then a rustoleum paint but again overwhelmed with the choices.
I still like the cheap art foam http://www.michaels.com/creatology-foam-sheet-12x18/M10597609.html?dwvar_M10597609_color=White#q=foam+sheet&start=1 because it is supposedly acid-free, but it is a bit stiff and makes re-assembly a little harder. Many (most?) people prefer a thinner softer material such as neoprene from McMaster-Carr.
I love Rustoleum paint and the "hammered" line of spray paints is spectacular. A primer layer is always a good idea, I usually go with flat gray and cover it with my finish color. Remember not to go too heavy or you might have trouble pushing the barrels back in. A lot of very thin coats is best. Follow the instructions to the letter, including the painful ones such as "re-coat within 1 hour or wait 48 hours"
Personally, I would not worry about that slightly warped case. You might do more harm than good if you mess with it.
I am ordering primer and the hammered paint now.. gonna try to go a little out of the box and try the hammered light blue color.
I was considering leaving the case alone, but when I screw the top and bottom together tight, I can see the that curvature of the case actually presses against the plate and causes the plate to curve a bit also.
oh man that gold and copper combo looks really really good. that copper looked the best out of the choices when I saw them at the hardware store, but I didn't wanna copy you :pI am ordering primer and the hammered paint now.. gonna try to go a little out of the box and try the hammered light blue color.
I was considering leaving the case alone, but when I screw the top and bottom together tight, I can see the that curvature of the case actually presses against the plate and causes the plate to curve a bit also.
The plate is probably better and stronger than the case. I doubt that it will cause a problem with the action.
Go to Home Depot and look at the colors on the shelf. "Rosemary" is a nice one that I used to good effect. (that's hammered copper for the plate)
Love watching these come back to life.
EDIT : As far as bending the case - I would do it by "hand". It only needs to be pressed in the opposite direction to the same curve depth to make it straight. Prop either end on some blocks of equal height, place a slightly shorter block in the middle (~2mm?), and step on it gently.
My advice would be to not bother with the case unless you think it's impacting the performance of the board somehow. IMO it gives it character.agreed.. I'll decide once the plate assembly is all done with. still got a long ways to go.
If you read my thread for the F-107 you might remember the comments from the metal shop about the poor quality "pot metal" of the case. If it were aluminum and you messed up you would probably bend it, but with the weird zinc crap it will probably crack if you stress it too much.
Here is that one with "oil rubbed bronze" case and hammered copper plate. Please feel free to "copy" me, I rip off good ideas whenever I run across them!
Alcohol and elbow grease will probably get rid of that Sharpie writing. Alternate with a little judicious pencil eraser if you have to.thanks Fohat! took your advice on the alcohol and eraser and the sharpie came off pretty nicely.
WOW man that thing is coming along nicely! Gonna keep an eye out for future updates.thanks Ghost, really looking forward to the results of your powdercoating!
Looking really good man! :thumb:
Rustoleum Universal Flat Soft Iron (dark metallic gray color) and I'm loving the results.
i will be tackling a project similar to this but with a f107 4704 instead in the future
Excellent work! Looks great!
Didn't I discuss clamps at length in my guides?
Nice little restoration log. Enjoyed the read :). Good luck with the controller soldering. For me it was the most nerve wracking part of my restore.thanks CPT. yeah pretty nervous about it as well.. hope I don't melt/damage the original ribbon cable
1. only one corner of the controller is able to be screwed into the existing plate arm supports. Is it ok to leave the other side unconnected? haven't experienced any issues so far..
2. with the way the controller is screwed in, I am unable to hook up the buzzer to the pin header, as one of the plate hooks is in the way. I guess I can move the controller down and connect the ground through a separate wire but buzzer isn't too important to me so I'll leave it disconnected.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/Hd1521q.jpg)