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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: Numpy on Fri, 19 February 2016, 20:29:58
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Good morning/afternoon/evening/night
I'm making a keyboard and as of now have everything except lubricant (and SIP sockets).
I'm a bit hesitant on whether or not to purchase lubricant for my stabilisers.
I do not need any for my switches as I'm using MX blues and so I was wondering whether anyone had any opinions on whether it's worth it just for the stabilisers.
Keep in mind that I live in Australia and so paying for shipping will be expensive for a small product, hence my hesitance in purchasing it.
Also, if anyone knows of a good play to get some Krytox that'd be sweeeeeeet.
Thanks,
Numpy
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Stabilizers
Yes, it can make a big difference in slop, sound and feel. Costar benefits in noise, Cherry in smoothness. It doesn't need to be anything special, stabs are easy to get to and relube or clean if needed. just make sure it's plastics friendly.
Inside the switch depends on you and the switch I think.
I've seen lubes create as many problems as they correct, if not more. They are already pre-lubed for life, do you really need to open them and risk messing with them? Meh. Some switches respond better to it than others, often I wonder if this has to do more with the spring rate than the stem profile.
If you're almost happy with it and just gotta have that last 1%, go for it, but personally, lubing switches is a lot of risk and work for that teeny, teeny, tiny little bit of difference. Been there, done that, don't need to do it again (I hope).
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For stabilizers it is. Not so much if you get Gateron or vintage.
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Stabilizers
Yes, it can make a big difference in slop, sound and feel. Costar benefits in noise, Cherry in smoothness. It doesn't need to be anything special, stabs are easy to get to and relube or clean if needed. just make sure it's plastics friendly.
Inside the switch depends on you and the switch I think.
I've seen lubes create as many problems as they correct, if not more. They are already pre-lubed for life, do you really need to open them and risk messing with them? Meh. Some switches respond better to it than others, often I wonder if this has to do more with the spring rate than the stem profile.
If you're almost happy with it and just gotta have that last 1%, go for it, but personally, lubing switches is a lot of risk and work for that teeny, teeny, tiny little bit of difference. Been there, done that, don't need to do it again (I hope).
Hey Leslieann,
I remember you commenting on one of my other posts about not using lube on switches.
Anyway, I'm literally about to start building my keyboard now as I've decided that SIP sockets are a pain the ass.
Would bike grease work or perhaps olive oil? And would I be able to lube my stabs after I put them on because I'm kind of anxious to get started. :-[
Also, any other advice/things you wish you had done, for a first time builder would be greatly appreciated ;D
Numpy
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Good idea for stabilizers.
For switches, more of a YMMV situation - I wouldn't lube MX blues (or any clicky switches), they are fine as is, and I believe are pre-lubed from the factory.
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Good idea for stabilizers.
For switches, more of a YMMV situation - I wouldn't lube MX blues (or any clicky switches), they are fine as is, and I believe are pre-lubed from the factory.
Do you know if Krytox is a must for stabs or will any lubricant do? If so what would you recommend? Would olive oil/ bike chain grease work?
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Stabilizers
Yes, it can make a big difference in slop, sound and feel. Costar benefits in noise, Cherry in smoothness. It doesn't need to be anything special, stabs are easy to get to and relube or clean if needed. just make sure it's plastics friendly.
Inside the switch depends on you and the switch I think.
I've seen lubes create as many problems as they correct, if not more. They are already pre-lubed for life, do you really need to open them and risk messing with them? Meh. Some switches respond better to it than others, often I wonder if this has to do more with the spring rate than the stem profile.
If you're almost happy with it and just gotta have that last 1%, go for it, but personally, lubing switches is a lot of risk and work for that teeny, teeny, tiny little bit of difference. Been there, done that, don't need to do it again (I hope).
well said. +1
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For stabilisers you can do that afterwards at any time, you don't need to wait for the grease too arrive. I believe you're supposed to use something thick and not runny, that stuff is supposed to glob onto the stabs to stop loose rattling, it is not supposed to lubricate anything.
So don't use bicycle chain grease. Doubt that olive oil is a good idea, suspect that'd go bad/rancid after a while.
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For stabilisers you can do that afterwards at any time, you don't need to wait for the grease too arrive. I believe you're supposed to use something thick and not runny, that stuff is supposed to glob onto the stabs to stop loose rattling, it is not supposed to lubricate anything.
So don't use bicycle chain grease. Doubt that olive oil is a good idea, suspect that'd go bad/rancid after a while.
Thankyou!
I might build my keyboard and then if I decide that I don't like it without lube then I'll order some
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Anything you use MUST be plastic compatible, a lot of automotive and bicycle stuff is petroleum based and will eat plastic.
Krytox and anything pure silicone will work, but make sure it's pure silicone or says it's safe for plastics. This is why I always recommend a hobby shop, pretty much everything there is plastic safe. Tamiya and Losi differential grease looks and feels exactly like the factory stabilizer grease on one of my last keyboards.
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Anything you use MUST be plastic compatible, a lot of automotive and bicycle stuff is petroleum based and will eat plastic.
Krytox and anything pure silicone will work, but make sure it's pure silicone or says it's safe for plastics. This is why I always recommend a hobby shop, pretty much everything there is plastic safe. Tamiya and Losi differential grease looks and feels exactly like the factory stabilizer grease on one of my last keyboards.
Thanks!
Will do
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Personally, I try and use the thinnest lube possible if I lube any switches. Especially for linears, I feel like a thicker lube just makes it feel to soft or unresponsive, not "quick" enough
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Personally, I try and use the thinnest lube possible if I lube any switches. Especially for linears, I feel like a thicker lube just makes it feel to soft or unresponsive, not "quick" enough
+1, thin lube and very small amounts on the sides of the sliders and ends of the springs only.
I have Krytox 103 on my Gateron Blacks and I think an even thinner lube would have been better.
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Go in dry
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Go in dry
I was gonna say, you replied to the wrong post with this message.
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Go in dry
I was gonna say, you replied to the wrong post with this message.
Damn it that was suppose to be a PM
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Personally, I try and use the thinnest lube possible if I lube any switches. Especially for linears, I feel like a thicker lube just makes it feel to soft or unresponsive, not "quick" enough
Yeah, too much makes it feel sluggish. You shouldn't be able to see the lube except as a light sheen when you turn the slider or housing. If you can see it without light reflecting off of it, you used way too much.
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Go in dry
LOLLLLL
On a serious note, for Costar stabilizer they can literally make the stabilizer disappear.
I lubed my Costar stabilizer on my MX Red, it's the smoothest feeling ever. Highly recommend. :thumb:
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Hey mate you can use superlube or metal greese? krytox is too expensive
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Hey mate you can use superlube or metal greese? krytox is too expensive
Not really, usually an insanely thick viscosity and depending on make not safe for plastic. Krytox is not that expensive at all. I just say suck it up and fork over the extra couple dollars and do the job right the first time, don't cheap out on something that you'll be using every day.
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If she's dry It'd be best to eliminate that friction :p
Seriously i believe it worth it on my clears
But on linears it becomes Wayy too smooth and feels unnatural
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Hey mate you can use superlube or metal greese? krytox is too expensive
Superlube sucks and I wouldn't recommend metal grease.
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Short answer: Yes, yes, yes
- Prevents ping for life (springs)
- Awesomely smooth switch feeling (stem)
- Prevents stabiliser degradation (stabiliser)
It doesn't solve stabiliser sound issues, IMO, their solution is more complex, but lube makes sure the plastic stabiliser parts doesn't wear out from the metal frictions
People claim lube takes care of stabiliser sounds, but it seems impossible to me, maybe for a day or two if you are lucky
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I had a rattly spacebar on my type-s and I mean it rattled a lot and it was annoyingly loud. I've applied some gpl205 with a brush, quite a thick layer and spread it out between contacts of stab wire and the plastic places. Now, the spacebar is firm, no noise, not even moving when tapped on the bar - perfect. I've applied a very thin layer on the rails of the switches and it's even more smoother and the thock is evident but really silent, so in the office it can't bother the coworkers...but the gorgeus feel is there, oh man :)
For me, the board is now perfect, I guess those little problems with stabs shouldn't be there at all when coming out of the factory...stock grease vs. krytox...can't believe the difference! So yeah, lubed board is really that better! :thumb:
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I don't really like lube in Cherry MX switch keyboards. It just attracts dust and makes it that much harder to clean it. I just use it and it ends up feeling smoother over time. Stock Topre feels butter smooth for me already so no lube required.
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Stock topre lacks that top smoothnes...buttery if you will ;)
Lubing stabs is basically a must on any mechanical board...because badly lubed stabs sound almost the same as unlubed ones...what a difference can a thick layer of lube make on the stabs is amazing! ;)
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I've dental banded my HHKB to silence the upstroke. It has about 0.5mm less key travel. Feels butter smooth to me. :P
Yea I would say stabs are the only things that are "must" lube though. Lube inside switches is a no no for me though.
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Brush painting a thin layer of lube on the slider rails took me quite some time to finish...I was really trying hard to not overlube it. And if you ask me, it is worth...just a nice silent type-s thock, no other noises or imperfections. Spacebar is really firm, I don't press it accidentally any more...it happened to me lots of times when my thumb took a nap on it... :D
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How do we lube the already assembled keyboard stabilizers?
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Personally, I try and use the thinnest lube possible if I lube any switches. Especially for linears, I feel like a thicker lube just makes it feel to soft or unresponsive, not "quick" enough
+1, thin lube and very small amounts on the sides of the sliders and ends of the springs only.
I have Krytox 103 on my Gateron Blacks and I think an even thinner lube would have been better.
Does Krytox make a thinner lube than 103? If so, what would that be?
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Personally, I try and use the thinnest lube possible if I lube any switches. Especially for linears, I feel like a thicker lube just makes it feel to soft or unresponsive, not "quick" enough
+1, thin lube and very small amounts on the sides of the sliders and ends of the springs only.
I have Krytox 103 on my Gateron Blacks and I think an even thinner lube would have been better.
Does Krytox make a thinner lube than 103? If so, what would that be?
I believe so. I'm on mobile right now but there are datasheets on Google of their different viscosities. I believe it's like 101-107 for the lu ricant, with the lower number being lower viscosity, but I'm 50/50 guessing.
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Personally, I try and use the thinnest lube possible if I lube any switches. Especially for linears, I feel like a thicker lube just makes it feel to soft or unresponsive, not "quick" enough
+1, thin lube and very small amounts on the sides of the sliders and ends of the springs only.
I have Krytox 103 on my Gateron Blacks and I think an even thinner lube would have been better.
Does Krytox make a thinner lube than 103? If so, what would that be?
I believe so. I'm on mobile right now but there are datasheets on Google of their different viscosities. I believe it's like 101-107 for the lu ricant, with the lower number being lower viscosity, but I'm 50/50 guessing.
I found the chart! Thanks a bunch. If you could do it over, would you go with GPL 101 or 102?
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Personally, I try and use the thinnest lube possible if I lube any switches. Especially for linears, I feel like a thicker lube just makes it feel to soft or unresponsive, not "quick" enough
+1, thin lube and very small amounts on the sides of the sliders and ends of the springs only.
I have Krytox 103 on my Gateron Blacks and I think an even thinner lube would have been better.
Does Krytox make a thinner lube than 103? If so, what would that be?
I believe so. I'm on mobile right now but there are datasheets on Google of their different viscosities. I believe it's like 101-107 for the lu ricant, with the lower number being lower viscosity, but I'm 50/50 guessing.
I found the chart! Thanks a bunch. If you could do it over, would you go with GPL 101 or 102?
I think if I had the option I would go for 101. Where are you buying it from? I've only ever been able to find it in bulk.
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Personally, I try and use the thinnest lube possible if I lube any switches. Especially for linears, I feel like a thicker lube just makes it feel to soft or unresponsive, not "quick" enough
+1, thin lube and very small amounts on the sides of the sliders and ends of the springs only.
I have Krytox 103 on my Gateron Blacks and I think an even thinner lube would have been better.
Does Krytox make a thinner lube than 103? If so, what would that be?
I believe so. I'm on mobile right now but there are datasheets on Google of their different viscosities. I believe it's like 101-107 for the lu ricant, with the lower number being lower viscosity, but I'm 50/50 guessing.
I found the chart! Thanks a bunch. If you could do it over, would you go with GPL 101 or 102?
I think if I had the option I would go for 101. Where are you buying it from? I've only ever been able to find it in bulk.
Alright cool. I found it on Amazon actually.
Edit: Amazon only has 101 in bulk, but they stock 102 in a 1 oz bottle. I might try that out.
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Personally, I try and use the thinnest lube possible if I lube any switches. Especially for linears, I feel like a thicker lube just makes it feel to soft or unresponsive, not "quick" enough
+1, thin lube and very small amounts on the sides of the sliders and ends of the springs only.
I have Krytox 103 on my Gateron Blacks and I think an even thinner lube would have been better.
Does Krytox make a thinner lube than 103? If so, what would that be?
I believe so. I'm on mobile right now but there are datasheets on Google of their different viscosities. I believe it's like 101-107 for the lu ricant, with the lower number being lower viscosity, but I'm 50/50 guessing.
I found the chart! Thanks a bunch. If you could do it over, would you go with GPL 101 or 102?
I think if I had the option I would go for 101. Where are you buying it from? I've only ever been able to find it in bulk.
Alright cool. I found it on Amazon actually.
Edit: Amazon only has 101 in bulk, but they stock 102 in a 1 oz bottle. I might try that out.
Sounds fair. I'm definitely not disapointed by 103. Think you'll be very happy with 102.
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Personally, I try and use the thinnest lube possible if I lube any switches. Especially for linears, I feel like a thicker lube just makes it feel to soft or unresponsive, not "quick" enough
+1, thin lube and very small amounts on the sides of the sliders and ends of the springs only.
I have Krytox 103 on my Gateron Blacks and I think an even thinner lube would have been better.
Does Krytox make a thinner lube than 103? If so, what would that be?
I believe so. I'm on mobile right now but there are datasheets on Google of their different viscosities. I believe it's like 101-107 for the lu ricant, with the lower number being lower viscosity, but I'm 50/50 guessing.
I found the chart! Thanks a bunch. If you could do it over, would you go with GPL 101 or 102?
I think if I had the option I would go for 101. Where are you buying it from? I've only ever been able to find it in bulk.
Alright cool. I found it on Amazon actually.
Edit: Amazon only has 101 in bulk, but they stock 102 in a 1 oz bottle. I might try that out.
Sounds fair. I'm definitely not disapointed by 103. Think you'll be very happy with 102.
Sounds good! Thanks for your input, it's much appreciated!