geekhack
geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => Topic started by: hKing on Sat, 05 March 2016, 05:46:35
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Hello there,
the last days I tried to desolder my Winkeyless Bface because I want to swap the top plate.
Desoldering the switches isn't a big problem (I work with a normal desolder pump and solder wick if needed) for me although I am a total noob.
Desoldering the SIP-sockets is a real pain in the ass, it just doesn't work.
The holes for the SIP-sockets / LEDs are so small, it seems that I am unable to get the solder out of the hole. Solder wick or repeated pumps with the desolder pump doesn't work ...
Help!!!!!! :eek:
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You have to add a lot of solder and flux. Remember that the heat has to conduct through the lead in order to get to all of the remaining solder in the hole--applying the iron doesn't conduct heat transfer as well as you would think. When pulling with the desoldering pump, ensure that you are also holding the iron so that it draws heat along the path toward the desoldering pump to ensure it does not prematurely cool. It's a pain, and you'll have better luck with a proper desoldering iron.
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Yeah, desoldering LEDs is not fun. I find it easier to add solder to join both leads together in one molten blob then pull out the LED, and finally clean up the solder, but not sure how well that would work with SIP sockets as there really isn't much to pull on.
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Yeah, desoldering LEDs is not fun. I find it easier to add solder to join both leads together in one molten blob then pull out the LED, and finally clean up the solder, but not sure how well that would work with SIP sockets as there really isn't much to pull on.
This sound like an idea, but as you said: There isn't much to pull because they are located within the switch.
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This desoldering pump has cut down my desoldering time by half or more. This has worked with sip sockets very well. It takes a while to heat up though so, be patient. For $15 you can't go wrong.
http://www.amazon.com/Tenma-21-8240-Vacuum-Desoldering-Iron/dp/B008DJRYIG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457216215&sr=8-3&keywords=desoldering+iron (http://www.amazon.com/Tenma-21-8240-Vacuum-Desoldering-Iron/dp/B008DJRYIG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457216215&sr=8-3&keywords=desoldering+iron)
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get one of these http://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457217059&sr=1-9&keywords=solder+sucker
and a flux pen http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-835-P-Rosin-Flux/dp/B0080X79HG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457217092&sr=1-1&keywords=flux+pen
dont forget to add extra solder
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This desoldering pump has cut down my desoldering time by half or more. This has worked with sip sockets very well. It takes a while to heat up though so, be patient. For $15 you can't go wrong.
http://www.amazon.com/Tenma-21-8240-Vacuum-Desoldering-Iron/dp/B008DJRYIG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457216215&sr=8-3&keywords=desoldering+iron (http://www.amazon.com/Tenma-21-8240-Vacuum-Desoldering-Iron/dp/B008DJRYIG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457216215&sr=8-3&keywords=desoldering+iron)
Ordered one of those, thanks!
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This desoldering pump has cut down my desoldering time by half or more. This has worked with sip sockets very well. It takes a while to heat up though so, be patient. For $15 you can't go wrong.
http://www.amazon.com/Tenma-21-8240-Vacuum-Desoldering-Iron/dp/B008DJRYIG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457216215&sr=8-3&keywords=desoldering+iron (http://www.amazon.com/Tenma-21-8240-Vacuum-Desoldering-Iron/dp/B008DJRYIG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457216215&sr=8-3&keywords=desoldering+iron)
Ordered one of those, thanks!
I highly recommend you DO NOT use a desoldering iron on the tiny led power holes. Reason is if you are a newbie you are going to apply heat for longer than needed and you might damage the pcb
I actually bought a weller desoldering iron and it could not do the job. you need that solder sucker i posted and make sure you get a good seal with the flexible silicone tip.
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I highly recommend you DO NOT use a desoldering iron on the tiny led power holes. Reason is if you are a newbie you are going to apply heat for longer than needed and you might damage the pcb
I actually bought a weller desoldering iron and it could not do the job. you need that solder sucker i posted and make sure you get a good seal with the flexible silicone tip.
Alright, I cancelled my order.
The problem with your product is that the plastic tip is heat resistant only up to 350 degrees. That is my desoldering temperature ...
It is also a bit expensive (but at lease I found a source where I can buy that in Germany...)
you need that solder sucker i posted and make sure you get a good seal with the flexible silicone tip.
I think I can't get a complete seal because the holes are so damn tiny and of course you need some space for the solder iron...
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The way I desoldered the SIP sockets (although I think this is not a very "safe" method) is to heat up a solder joint and gently "bump" the keyboard - the SIP socket should just fall out (the switch being opened in advance of course). It's easier to remove the solder from the pad afterwards.
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The Winkeyless top place doesn't have cutouts to open the switch. Your method isn't working...
I just ordered the desoldering sucker appleonama suggested. This one has a very flexible tip, I hope that's the solution to my problem ...
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I'm having an issue w/ getting an LED to work after desoldering and resoldering it on my Pok3r as well. How much do those SIP sockets go for?
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I'm having an issue w/ getting an LED to work after desoldering and resoldering it on my Pok3r as well. How much do those SIP sockets go for?
Zeal sells long legged for ~10$ per 120.
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Ah I just read something that says you have to modify your switches to fit them. This true?
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Ah I just read something that says you have to modify your switches to fit them. This true?
No, you just need to open the switches to put them inside. This thread has a good description: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51792.0 . Some people leave the SIPS in the black sleeve, some people remove the SIPs from the sleeve entirely (my preference), but you shouldn't need to make any changes to the switches themselves.
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Ah I just read something that says you have to modify your switches to fit them. This true?
No, you just need to open the switches to put them inside. This thread has a good description: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51792.0 . Some people leave the SIPS in the black sleeve, some people remove the SIPs from the sleeve entirely (my preference), but you shouldn't need to make any changes to the switches themselves.
Dang. I didn't realize this.
I'm not sure what I should do with my board. I'm thinking about putting heavier springs and lubing my Pok3r. I'd probably be better off doing a custom at this point... though I do want to at least lube this guy.
Do you have any tips for simply desoldering / resoldering the LED's without damaging the board? I had a hell of a time on only a few of them.
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The Winkeyless top place doesn't have cutouts to open the switch. Your method isn't working...
I just ordered the desoldering sucker appleonama suggested. This one has a very flexible tip, I hope that's the solution to my problem ...
Just heat up the hole for the sip socket and pull it out, then clean out the rest, as suicidal orange explained. Soldering wick is better than soldapult on this imo.
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The Winkeyless top place doesn't have cutouts to open the switch. Your method isn't working...
I just ordered the desoldering sucker appleonama suggested. This one has a very flexible tip, I hope that's the solution to my problem ...
Just heat up the hole for the sip socket and pull it out, then clean out the rest, as suicidal orange explained. Soldering wick is better than soldapult on this imo.
Good to know. Forunately, I added some to my order which is arriving tomorrow.
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When I have to desolder lots of pins, I use a 'wet' desolder wick to make a thermal bridge between them and hotair it, then pull the part out. If there's stuff I don't want to heat up near it, I insulate it off with kapton tape and/or alu foil.
@flabbergast
Ahh, the good old student method for scavenging parts. Although in my stories, there were ovens or ceramic stovetops, and there was no 'gentle' part. But it works, kinda.
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The Winkeyless top place doesn't have cutouts to open the switch. Your method isn't working...
I just ordered the desoldering sucker appleonama suggested. This one has a very flexible tip, I hope that's the solution to my problem ...
Just heat up the hole for the sip socket and pull it out, then clean out the rest, as suicidal orange explained. Soldering wick is better than soldapult on this imo.
+1. removing/inserting leds is much easier with solder in a liquid state than attempting to remove all of the solder. as a college student, i've found this to be the best method of adding or removing leds (adding leds i.e. pre-filled holes like in the pok3r). lower your temp and just heat the solder and push the led in/pull it out with your iron still on the solder.