geekhack
geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => Topic started by: bmilcs on Sun, 06 March 2016, 14:03:56
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http://www.amazon.com/ECG-J-045-DS-Watt-Desoldering-Iron/dp/B00068IJSG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457294476&sr=8-2&keywords=desoldering+iron#Ask
or
http://www.amazon.com/Edsyn-Deluxe-Soldapullt-Heavy-Vacuum/dp/B006GOKVKI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457294573&sr=8-1&keywords=soldapullt
That is the question. I currently have a cheapie $8 pump (http://www.amazon.com/Electronix-Express-060820--Solder-Desoldering/dp/B00L2HRW92/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457294593&sr=8-3&keywords=desoldering+pump) and the tip has already melted a bit. It doesn't work as good as I hoped.
I'm looking at spending no more than $25. Do you think I should get the ECG Iron or the Soldapult?
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If you can go to a radioshack, get the radioshack version of ECG, same thing, but $15 for the iron, $2 per extra tip, no idea if they'll restock, so buy at least 2-3 extra tips for it. otherwise, get the ECG or one like this
http://smile.amazon.com/Velleman-VTDESOL3U-Vacuum-Desoldering-Heater/dp/B00B88FRME/ref=pd_sbs_328_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Fmy-PbImL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=05FSDDR1RG3M3WVSJ7KR (http://smile.amazon.com/Velleman-VTDESOL3U-Vacuum-Desoldering-Heater/dp/B00B88FRME/ref=pd_sbs_328_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Fmy-PbImL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=05FSDDR1RG3M3WVSJ7KR)
You always want the desoldering nozzle to be the heating tip, otherwise you need to let the joint cool down while you switch which tool is touching the solder, and you have to choose between a good seal, or the solder still being melted.
If you can be convinced to get spendy,
http://smile.amazon.com/Aoyue-Function-Soldering-Desoldering-Absorber/dp/B009Q5ZH58/ref=pd_sbs_328_6?ie=UTF8&dpID=51YaeD6YnML&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=05FSDDR1RG3M3WVSJ7KR
is a very good idea, because even though aoyue is a chinese knockoff brand, it's a good knockoff brand, and their products are generally compatible with hakko replacement parts upgrades (like using hakko tips and heating elements)
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I think you will get most bang for your $25 bucks with the Soldapullt™.
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I was leaning toward the Soldapult. I'm just weary to get into soldering after having issues with these GD LED's on my Pok3r. I think I ruined the PCB points or the traces and can't find info on how to fix it.
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I was leaning toward the Soldapult. I'm just weary to get into soldering after having issues with these GD LED's on my Pok3r. I think I ruined the PCB points or the traces and can't find info on how to fix it.
You won't be unhappy with it. Just remember, more solder = easier time desoldering.
As far as fixing the Pok3r, you just need a basic multimeter to test for continuity. Use another switch as a guide and trace where each lead of the led goes on the board. From there, you can solder some jumpers for the malfunctioning led and be good to go.
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Can I get jumpers from Amazon? I am about to order a multimeter and soldapult :) as well as helping hands.
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http://www.amazon.com/Breadboard-Jumper-Wire-75pcs-pack/dp/B0040DEI9M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1457387581&sr=8-4&keywords=jumper+wire
These?
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(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1635/25271136780_367df101dc_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ev8bwQ)DSC_9113.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Ev8bwQ) by bmilcs (https://www.flickr.com/photos/52658307@N03/), on Flickr
PS: Here is the mess I've made.
Tried cleaning it with paper towels and 90% isopropyl. This is the result -_-
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http://www.amazon.com/Breadboard-Jumper-Wire-75pcs-pack/dp/B0040DEI9M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1457387581&sr=8-4&keywords=jumper+wire
These?
Those can work, but you will be cutting off the connectors and just going with the wire itself. If you have any old electronics that have died, just crack it open and pull a couple small wires from it. That is all you need. I use an old set of front panel connectors from an old pc and just cut the wire I need from it. You want the wire to be small gauge so that you can get a good joint without too much heat.
This is an example of what you will be doing:
(http://midisizer.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/midibud-v032.jpg)
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Very cool.
I don't have any electronics on hand that I can destroy. Can you help pick something out on Amazon Prime that would work for this application?
thank you so much for your help by the way.
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If you have any extra Ethernet/phone/USB cables lying around, they contain a bundle of small diameter wires
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I'm a nerd and opted for a multi color spool of wire so I can color code it. Along with the wire, I got magnifying helping hands, Soldapult III, desoldering wick and a multimeter.
Thanks again for all the help folks :)
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I'm a nerd and opted for a multi color spool of wire so I can color code it. Along with the wire, I got magnifying helping hands, Soldapult III, desoldering wick and a multimeter.
Thanks again for all the help folks :)
That will work. :thumb:
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Take a look at Yihua 936
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I'm a nerd and opted for a multi color spool of wire so I can color code it. Along with the wire, I got magnifying helping hands, Soldapult III, desoldering wick and a multimeter.
Thanks again for all the help folks :)
That will work. :thumb:
So, I tested both LEDS that I desoldered from my Pok3r in continuity mode and they mode lit up. So, I take it they are functioning just fine. Should all LED's do this? I have one that I pulled from my KUL and nothing happens... no beep or light.
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(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1571/25684026495_6e7d0c2302_o.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1491/25057288033_67718080cd_o.jpg)
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ECG J-045-DS 45 Watt Desoldering Iron all day. I have both and only use this.