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geekhack Marketplace => Artisan Services => Topic started by: ziptyze on Mon, 04 April 2016, 11:32:36
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Here are some shots of my current cases guys, thanks for looking!
The z-case3.0:
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
Courtesy of unclebrudy
[attachimg=4]
Courtesy of Warcommand
[attachimg=5]
Pricing for my cases:
Black-walled, translucent-bottom z-case3.0 - on sale for $65 shipped CONUS (anywhere else is about $10-15 extra for untracked first-class)
Any other color combinations - $75 shipped CONUS (anywhere else is about $10-15 extra for untracked first-class)
I am working on an order form to include various color choices, but for the most part I can accommodate any color request. I keep about 30 colors of filament on hand, and can order others fairly quickly if I don't have what you want.
Cases should ship within 1-2 weeks, sometimes quicker and sometimes a little longer if my printer is being ornery.
Please PM me to make an order, or for any additional information.
Thank you!!!
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In this section I will list cases that I have ready to ship. Sometimes they might be experimental, or b-stock. Other times they may just be ones that I want to move. Prices include shipping in the CONUS, and $5 off if for each extra case you buy. International shipping is generally about $10-15 extra.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
These two cases are a newer design that I was trying out, and they have built-in anti skid bumpers. Ultimately, I've nixed this plan for now, but I have a couple that turned out well.
The are each $40, shipped CONUS.
[attachimg=3]
This is one of my older two-tone style cases. The top is slightly translucent blue, bottom is translucent.
$50 shipped CONUS
[attachimg=4]
This is a blue walled, purple bottom z-case3.0.
$60 shipped CONUS
[attachimg=5]
This is an orange walled, white bottom z-case3.0.
$60 shipped CONUS
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Have you considered trying to do TKL cases at all? It would probably be more difficult, but there's almost none on the market, and considering how easily you'd be able to tweak your designs for each unique PCB, it would probably be worth it.
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Have you considered trying to do TKL cases at all? It would probably be more difficult, but there's almost none on the market, and considering how easily you'd be able to tweak your designs for each unique PCB, it would probably be worth it.
The big limitation at this moment is the size of my printer. As it is, a 60% cases literally touch the edge of the build surface so I couldn't even do a 65 or 75 yet.
That said, with some help, I am aiming to make a completely custom 3d printer at some point in the summer. I'll need to get some custom parts made for it, most notably the heated bed. As long as people keep buying cases at the rate they have been, TKL cases (and hopefully even bigger) are a real possibility this year.
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Oh shoot, this looks nice! Few questions:
The material and feel of the case is the same as your previous editions of z-cases right?
Is the black part flush with the translucent bottom?
Is the entire bottom translucent?
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Oh shoot, this looks nice! Few questions:
The material and feel of the case is the same as your previous editions of z-cases right?
Is the black part flush with the translucent bottom?
Is the entire bottom translucent?
1- yes, but it feels a bit beefier because the walls are thicker
2- yes, developing a process to superglue the two parts together and have them be perfectly flush to the point that they appear as one piece was the toughest part of designing and creating this, and adds a significant amount of time to the workflow
3- yes, the entire bottom is translucent
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The 3.0 looks really nice. I might be in for one when I have more money and there are some color options :thumb: Good luck in getting that new printer.
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3.0 Looks great man! Glad to see things moving along for ya ;D
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2- yes, developing a process to superglue the two parts together and have them be perfectly flush to the point that they appear as one piece was the toughest part of designing and creating this, and adds a significant amount of time to the workflow
You're doing superglue instead of a solvent weld?
It looks like you're printing in PLA or ABS. You should be able to acetone smooth the plastic to help make the case stronger and smoother. Depending on the material you're using, there are other solvents that may let you solvent weld and get a stronger bond than superglue. For example, you can toss a bunch of ABS in acetone and make a plastic glue that will solvent weld ABS parts together. I haven't done a bunch of research on PLA, but I've seen it stated that methylene chloride (in paint thinners) can do the same thing with PLA.
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2- yes, developing a process to superglue the two parts together and have them be perfectly flush to the point that they appear as one piece was the toughest part of designing and creating this, and adds a significant amount of time to the workflow
You're doing superglue instead of a solvent weld?
It looks like you're printing in PLA or ABS. You should be able to acetone smooth the plastic to help make the case stronger and smoother. Depending on the material you're using, there are other solvents that may let you solvent weld and get a stronger bond than superglue. For example, you can toss a bunch of ABS in acetone and make a plastic glue that will solvent weld ABS parts together. I haven't done a bunch of research on PLA, but I've seen it stated that methylene chloride (in paint thinners) can do the same thing with PLA.
It is PLA. ABS is significantly more temperamental during printing, especially if the heated bed doesn't have even heat over the area being printed. Since my prints go to the edge of the build area, ABS prints always lift from the surface during printing at the corners because it's cooler than the middle. I may look into using paint thinner for bonding, but superglue works very well and as long as I position it correctly while gluing. It sets much much more quickly than epoxy which is preferable during my finishing process. Down the road, I want to build a custom fully enclosed quad-extruder printer with a large enough heat bed to allow for ABS prints and any sized keyboard, but I need to work up to that.
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Will you ever make one (actually two) for infinity ErgoDox?
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Would it be possible to get the top of the case flush with a plate for plate mounted switches?
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Would it be possible to get the top of the case flush with a plate for plate mounted switches?
I talked with him about it, I think he was planning that.
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Would it be possible to get the top of the case flush with a plate for plate mounted switches?
I talked with him about it, I think he was planning that.
Nice, thanks! If that's incorporated with this batch I'll probably be in
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Would it be possible to get the top of the case flush with a plate for plate mounted switches?
I talked with him about it, I think he was planning that.
Nice, thanks! If that's incorporated with this batch I'll probably be in
He wanted to make it completable with Leandrens groupbuy
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Would it be possible to get the top of the case flush with a plate for plate mounted switches?
I talked with him about it, I think he was planning that.
Nice, thanks! If that's incorporated with this batch I'll probably be in
He wanted to make it completable with Leandrens groupbuy
Perfect, that's why I was asking too haha. Getting an HHKB plate from leandren and thought it would only look best with a flush case
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Would it be possible to get the top of the case flush with a plate for plate mounted switches?
I talked with him about it, I think he was planning that.
Nice, thanks! If that's incorporated with this batch I'll probably be in
He wanted to make it completable with Leandrens groupbuy
Perfect, that's why I was asking too haha. Getting an HHKB plate from leandren and thought it would only look best with a flush case
Same here, same here.
I am one of the 2 that already ordered :)
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Will you ever make one (actually two) for infinity ErgoDox?
I'd love to do cases for ergos. I have some OG pcbs, but I'm assuming that cases for them wouldn't be interchangeable. This is definitely on the list of stuff to do though, but I can't give you a definitive time frame.
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Would it be possible to get the top of the case flush with a plate for plate mounted switches?
Yes, if you would like your case to be made that way, I can make them like Diokhan said, that will be plate-level. The corners come in a little tighter to hug the plate as well. I can't do that with the full height cases because some caps (DSA I'm looking at you) run into the corners.
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Would it be possible to get the top of the case flush with a plate for plate mounted switches?
Yes, if you would like your case to be made that way, I can make them like Diokhan said, that will be plate-level. The corners come in a little tighter to hug the plate as well. I can't do that with the full height cases because some caps (DSA I'm looking at you) run into the corners.
I would also be interested in this kind of design, to complete with HHKB plate from Leandren's R4.
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Z (funny enough, one of my daughter's nicknames),
We spoke a few weeks ago about a yellow case, and I would still love to procure one from you. DM me on Slack or PM me here, so we can review the details please.
Thank you! :thumb:
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I made some modifications to the sale, and added some pics. Thanks for all of your support guys!
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Sweet, can you do other translucent color bottoms too? Or just clear/white?
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Sweet, can you do other translucent color bottoms too? Or just clear/white?
I have translucent orange, yellow, and red as well. Additionally, I have translucent green and purple on the way. Having colored translucent is a nice effect for a board like a Gon where you can just use white LEDs. It's a bolder color than you get from RGB lighting (but obviously, you're stuck with the one).
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Are you 3D printing these?
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Are you 3D printing these?
Yes
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So many questions, last one: Is the case angled or flat? If I recall correctly, ver 1/2 are flat too? If I wanted to prop it up, I suppose I would use some sticky bumps or something?
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So many questions, last one: Is the case angled or flat? If I recall correctly, ver 1/2 are flat too? If I wanted to prop it up, I suppose I would use some sticky bumps or something?
I have a version I'm working on with holes for feet, and have it tested with some Chinese feet. However, the filament is very thin at that point, and can break very easily... so I've been trying to come up with another solution. Otherwise, yes, you could use large furniture bumpers or something, and I also have feet that you can put on the bottom to add an angle.
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If it saves you time/money to print less by making the case flush with the plate you can change mine to that style (if it has not been produced yet).
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They're close enough to the same amount of time and material that I don't charge differently. The vast majority of the material is in the base, so the couple extra mm on the walls doesn't affect it much. Personally I like the higher walls better anyway, but I understand wanting cases plate height as well.
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Ok... I'm changing things around on the sale thread here a little bit. I have gotten a lot of requests for custom work lined up, so I'll open things up on here to buy more than just the black/trans cases.
The z-case3.0:
(Attachment Link)
Looks really sweet!
What board is that?
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Most of them are b.faces, uncleB's is a b.fake. Any 60% will do, but for the lighting you need a gon, wkl, or a Chinese clone
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Most of them are b.faces, uncleB's is a b.fake. Any 60% will do, but for the lighting you need a gon, wkl, or a Chinese clone
b.faces cool pcb.. HHKB layout.. does it have diamond arrow nav?
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Anything you want. You set it in their GUI
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Anything you want. You set it in their GUI
Very cool.
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How are the pcb/plate screwed in? Do you have metal pieces in there for the screws? I've used the Tex plastic translucent cases and ended up messing up the plastic threads - might be just me though.
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I have brass threaded inserts. They work much better than trying to screw into plastic. They're m2.5 threads, so you can't use the same screws that come with most cases, but they hold a lot more securely.
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They look amazing :thumb:
Might have to pick up a clear bottom sometime.
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Awesome! Do you have any photos of what the bottom of the case looks like?
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Awesome! Do you have any photos of what the bottom of the case looks like?
This one has a translucent orange bottom, but you get the idea
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160422/db83812966947fc4e41e3b5b6907a263.jpg)
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I updated the top 2 posts to include some already made cases. Thanks guys!
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Have you considered trying to do TKL cases at all? It would probably be more difficult, but there's almost none on the market, and considering how easily you'd be able to tweak your designs for each unique PCB, it would probably be worth it.
The big limitation at this moment is the size of my printer. As it is, a 60% cases literally touch the edge of the build surface so I couldn't even do a 65 or 75 yet.
That said, with some help, I am aiming to make a completely custom 3d printer at some point in the summer. I'll need to get some custom parts made for it, most notably the heated bed. As long as people keep buying cases at the rate they have been, TKL cases (and hopefully even bigger) are a real possibility this year.
When you do get to the point of building your own custom rig, take the size parameters and add at least 50%. The cost difference will be negligible with the one possible exception being the heated bed. I will admit, I don't know much about that side of things, but in terms of the setting up the machine for longer movements in the 3 axis, that cost difference is next to nothing compared to the cost of the entire job.
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Gotta say, I just got my v3 in the mail today and the quality of the case is superb. Compared to his v1 and v2, it's a lot more refined and sturdy. If you're on the edge of getting the case, DO IT! Can't even tell it's 3D printed. :thumb:
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wow looking good~!!