geekhack
geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => Topic started by: tp4tissue on Wed, 13 April 2016, 20:40:12
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I've stuck with 63/37 for the last 20 years..
I tried Lead free 10 years back, burned a few traces.. Never went back..
Any new development on the Lead Free front ?
Any recommendations ?
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I've never had any trouble with lead free, but I have some nice equipment that has no trouble getting and staying hot.
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Weller WMRS
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/weller/solder/wmrs.htm
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...and Silver, Copper, Tin mix
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/solder/non-leaded/sn96-4900/
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...and Silver, Copper, Tin mix
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/solder/non-leaded/sn96-4900/
Does it wet good ?
vs leaded.. better/worse
Shiny joints ?
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Wet as good as lead? Nah...but with enough heat and a little practice it's pretty close. The joints are never as shiny as lead joints, but again...with practice/experience you will see what's normal for lead free is not exactly the same as what's normal for leaded.
Edit: with enough heat that particular solder wets really well. Just to be clear I use my iron at ~750-800 F.
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With a decent iron, putting it down isn't so much an issue, pulling it back up is where most seem to complain the most about lead free.
I'll also add that ceramic tips make it more difficult as well.
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There’s no reason not to stick with 63/37 Kester 44, unless you plan to eat it. Lead free solder is a pain in the butt, and usually uses more aggressive flux which is worse to breathe.
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With a decent iron, putting it down isn't so much an issue, pulling it back up is where most seem to complain the most about lead free.
I'll also add that ceramic tips make it more difficult as well.
I've not had any trouble removing unleaded, but I've not done any large blobs,
Is the trouble because the higher heat requirement causes trace lifting on large joints ?
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It takes more heat and doesn't flow as good.
What many people do is use add a bit of leaded solder to it, that allows it to flow better, then remove it.
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Solder wick...seems to be a "dirty word" around here, but it works well for me. I can reflow with the lead-free stuff above with little trouble.
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I'm not that fond of the lead free either...to much heat and I'm a bit lazy. Tin/Lead flows so nicely.