I think so too. I feel lighter mice feel snappier.
although it does not have nearly as much processing as more advanced sensors, so there might be something to that too. since IME3.0 isn't that light.
ST Microelectronics might've done it in such a way that feels 'just right' for a lot of people.
Few things coming together, hoewever due to its fixed framerate and how it does Delty X and Y at once it is actually at a disadvantage at low speeds, it can actually even be tricked into going the wrong direction. among other things. Maybe i whip mine out later just to fumble around, despite the signed driver i have no use for it as i cant just be like "can i install this driver please", there has already been an outcry about the timer tool once so i rather avoid any accusations, not to mention that when it bugs out the USB Port can become useless until you get rid of the changes again.
Hrrrm....
So you're saying the MLT04 is doing -1x-1 while the new sensors are doing -1x0 n 0x-1
So that reduces the diagonal motion to 1 count ? vs 2 counts ?
Hrrrm....
So you're saying the MLT04 is doing -1x-1 while the new sensors are doing -1x0 n 0x-1
So that reduces the diagonal motion to 1 count ? vs 2 counts ?
Basically yes, but going XY separately is actually the natural thing for a 4 sided matrix.
Few things coming together, hoewever due to its fixed framerate and how it does Delty X and Y at once it is actually at a disadvantage at low speeds, it can actually even be tricked into going the wrong direction. among other things. Maybe i whip mine out later just to fumble around, despite the signed driver i have no use for it as i cant just be like "can i install this driver please", there has already been an outcry about the timer tool once so i rather avoid any accusations, not to mention that when it bugs out the USB Port can become useless until you get rid of the changes again.ST Microelectronics might've done it in such a way that feels 'just right' for a lot of people.
It was ST, MLT04 is actually a SoC system that comes straight out of the factory, just solder it, done, and just to mention it, it has no impact on latency. Guy who did MLT04 actually went on to Avago, dont know the exact time frame though.
Also some other stuff i wanted to write but ive forgotten it.
How can the MLT04 be tricked to go in the wrong direction? does it need to be rotated?
not sure if that's what you mean
Indeed it is.
Indeed it is.
TRUE the MLT04 is entirely dependent on the right mouse pad and that will determine how the sensor operates at any given moment.
Remembered one professional Gamer using his WMO for years but he has the BIGGEST stock pile of mouse pads that he carry's to every match. It makes a world of difference between standing on the podium to receive your trophy or crying in the alleyway, alone and embarrassed to show his face again.
He actually still uses his WMO simply because he knows how it will perform with every mouse pad in his collection.
which pro gamer is this.. and why don't I remember him, clearly he is not very good.. hell, even YOU don't actually remember him...Show Image(http://emoticoner.com/files/emoticons/onion-head/evil-smile-onion-head-emoticon.gif?1292862503)
having only one (low) cpi step surely makes things easier. for one, as you suggested there will be less need to come up with ways to battle excessive noise.
that's why i mentioned the "dpi war" earlier: companies going for interpolation, getting more noise/jitter by pushing cpi, implementing smoothing to counter it..
i can imagine that with all that processing going on, it becomes harder/impossible to get cursor movement that's low-latency, low-jitter, and accurate.
the main issue is probably just that if all this stuff is needed at all to achieve high cpi, and if high cpi comes with such high a cost.. then the sensor probably just isn't suited. (3360 or go home!)
things were just simpler in the beginning, i suppose. why bother trying to come up with a way to get 800cpi on your mouse when everyone is running at resolutions like 800 and 1024, you know?
and of course the fact that those mice were optical, and not mechanical, was reason enough to get a mouse like it.
few of the companies could/can really handle (the pace of) the dpi war, in my opinion.
rather than trying to come up with ways to get decently high cpi while cursor movement remains "sharp", they prioritized maximum cpi and other "gimmicks" (lighting, more buttons, etc).
in my opinion the high cpi came with too high a cost. but luckily for these companies, the average consumer doesn't care about or even see that cost.
(i realize that cursor precision isn't the main concern for every kind of mouse, but of course i'm primarily talking about gaming mice.)
edit: also, the gaming peripheral market has become quite a silly one over the years.. for example the 3310 received a huge hype-bomb, which never really stopped exploding, and now there are so many people thinking and claiming that it's such an amazing super fantastic sensor, that every new mouse that uses this sensor automatically gets 4 out of 5 stars.
i can not un-forget that TekSyndicate themselves claimed it's the best sensor on the market, after the 3360 was already publicly available.
you could argue that them claiming that is just marketing, but i consider it laughable. :cool:
(but finalmouse is probably the funniest company.)
/rant
numbers sell :(
edit: again thanks woll3, the insight and detail is always appreciated :-)
i never considered the 3310 to be bad, it had its obvious strengths. but it never was the best sensor, and imo just didn't deserve that huge hype
the MLT04 also has its downsides, including low cpi, as well as the less apparent downsides woll3 mentioned
didn't mean to sound like a 3310-hater or MLT04-lover :-P
What sensor do you consider better than 3310 or MLT04?
What sensor do you consider better than 3310 or MLT04?
3366 sunshine ;) .
What sensor do you consider better than 3310 or MLT04?
3366 sunshine ;) .
How only will it take before it appears in mice other than G502? I'm waaaiiitinnng...
What sensor do you consider better than 3310 or MLT04?
3366 sunshine ;) .
How only will it take before it appears in mice other than G502? I'm waaaiiitinnng...
Just get g303.. hhahahahaha.. it is theoretically ideal assuming you don't get a rattler..
But even if you do get a rattler, just put some double sided tape on it.. there's really nothing seriously wrong with it..
the finalmouse scream keeps getting delayed. planned release was originally set to end februari - early march, but it has been pushed back to late may. i wouldn't be surprised if it gets delayed even further though.
anyway, the steelseries rival 700 was aimed for "spring 2016" iirc. and there is that corsair m65 mouse, but i haven't followed that one at all
other than that, nothing has been announced yet.. i bet more mice with the 3360 are in development, but the fact that nothing has been announced yet might just mean that it will take months before those would get released.
edit: i actually just purchased a used G303, bring on the rattling! it should be here within 2 days.
cost me just over €35 including shipping. seems to be in excellent shape judging by the pictures
haven't i already answered that 2 times? :-D yes dude the G303 has a 3366, but the main concern is indeed chance for sensor rattle.
should be an easy fix, but you might end up needing a new set of feet, kind of a bummer.
handy? you unscrew like 5 or 6 screws, apply some tape, then put the screws back in.
this brother shows where the screws are located and everything. ezpz!:
edit: ugh. why are youtube videos centered?
I've peeled the newer logitech mousefeet... They're a layer of teflon, then this foam layer, then the adhesive layer..
So, the Primary issue is , if you peel it, and peel into the foam layer, as that can't be stickied back together..
So........... all you need to do is use a boxcutter, and make sure you're lifting up the adhesive layer and not the middle which is the foam layer..
I've peeled the newer logitech mousefeet... They're a layer of teflon, then this foam layer, then the adhesive layer..
So, the Primary issue is , if you peel it, and peel into the foam layer, as that can't be stickied back together..
So........... all you need to do is use a boxcutter, and make sure you're lifting up the adhesive layer and not the middle which is the foam layer..
How do you put those bastards back on? Same adhesive? Is it strong enough to use a second time once you peeled them off?
I've peeled the newer logitech mousefeet... They're a layer of teflon, then this foam layer, then the adhesive layer..
So, the Primary issue is , if you peel it, and peel into the foam layer, as that can't be stickied back together..
So........... all you need to do is use a boxcutter, and make sure you're lifting up the adhesive layer and not the middle which is the foam layer..
How do you put those bastards back on? Same adhesive? Is it strong enough to use a second time once you peeled them off?
First , clean table of dust..
Then, wash your own hands.. "thoroughly dry them"..
Then, dedust the mice..
Then, alcohol swab the bottom of the mice
Then, alcohol swab the box cutter/utility knife
Then, insert tip of knife beneath mouse-feet
Then, pry lightly until you have 0.5 cubic cm of area accessible
Then, sticky that to the knife, and pull slowly..
Put piece of tape against its sticky side for protection..
Set aside..
Do rest of mod.
usually the adhesive is pretty good and definitely works multiple times. i haven't encountered feet yet that wouldn't go back on after taking them off.
my issue has always been that i rip the layers off of one another, or just bend the thing into uselessness.
why do they all make such terrible mousefeet? :E
also lol @ tissue the professional. i'm lazy and i just take them off without any "prep work".
but he's right though, you should take the extra minute to do it right.
and yeah afaik ABS is resistant to alcohol. some coatings are not though
usually the adhesive is pretty good and definitely works multiple times. i haven't encountered feet yet that wouldn't go back on after taking them off.
my issue has always been that i rip the layers off of one another, or just bend the thing into uselessness.
why do they all make such terrible mousefeet? :E
also lol @ tissue the professional. i'm lazy and i just take them off without any "prep work".
but he's right though, you should take the extra minute to do it right.
and yeah afaik ABS is resistant to alcohol. some coatings are not though
usually the adhesive is pretty good and definitely works multiple times. i haven't encountered feet yet that wouldn't go back on after taking them off.
my issue has always been that i rip the layers off of one another, or just bend the thing into uselessness.
why do they all make such terrible mousefeet? :E
also lol @ tissue the professional. i'm lazy and i just take them off without any "prep work".
but he's right though, you should take the extra minute to do it right.
and yeah afaik ABS is resistant to alcohol. some coatings are not though
Oh right..
Don't touch any rubber coating with alcohol it will damage the finish..