I use many cameras that do not contain a lightmeter, from TLRs to a 6x24 homemade pinhole. I use 2 lightmeters: my phone and a Pentax spotmeter V.
Honestly, I get the allure of reenactment, but old photo gear is good because it's often very well manufactured, has good optics, and even a tiny format like 35mm will resolve with more detail than all but the fanciest digital stuff. Old lightmeters are typically worn out and not good, and not fun to use.
For an incidence meter, something that averages incident light over a large area, any number of apps, both free and paid, work well using the phone camera. Its what I use about 90% of the time. Especially as I don't have to do the math for pushing, pulling, and I can even tell it the aperture is f240, which doesn't appear on a physical meter.
The spotmeter V is a one degree meter that takes readings from a very narrow, well, spot. Instead of getting an average of an area, you can set your exposure with specific information. Very good for high contrast situations and mandatory for using Adams' zone system. But you probably don't need one unless you're going all out.
Seriously, you'll feel funny whipping out your phone just to get a reading to take an analogue photo, but it's by far the easiest way to do things.
The best buys in old camera gear are in the "next best thing" category. The consensus "best" models can be really, really expensive. A good example is old rolleis. A planar 2.8 in good condition will be $3000-$5000. I got my automat 3.5 for $350. I really don't need that half stop. So beware of "best" models because they have a cult following and the pricing that goes with it. Deals can be had in the "next best" category.
The best buys in old camera gear are in the "next best thing" category. The consensus "best" models can be really, really expensive. A good example is old rolleis. A planar 2.8 in good condition will be $3000-$5000. I got my automat 3.5 for $350. I really don't need that half stop. So beware of "best" models because they have a cult following and the pricing that goes with it. Deals can be had in the "next best" category.
The best buys in old camera gear are in the "next best thing" category. The consensus "best" models can be really, really expensive. A good example is old rolleis. A planar 2.8 in good condition will be $3000-$5000. I got my automat 3.5 for $350. I really don't need that half stop. So beware of "best" models because they have a cult following and the pricing that goes with it. Deals can be had in the "next best" category.
SO far, I am only interested in analogue, 6x6 (medium format) and 6x9 folding cameras. So far as I know the Agfa Super Isolette and Zeiss super Ikonta (A, B, C and D) models are about as good as it gets, but If you know any better ones, please let me know.
The best buys in old camera gear are in the "next best thing" category. The consensus "best" models can be really, really expensive. A good example is old rolleis. A planar 2.8 in good condition will be $3000-$5000. I got my automat 3.5 for $350. I really don't need that half stop. So beware of "best" models because they have a cult following and the pricing that goes with it. Deals can be had in the "next best" category.
SO far, I am only interested in analogue, 6x6 (medium format) and 6x9 folding cameras. So far as I know the Agfa Super Isolette and Zeiss super Ikonta (A, B, C and D) models are about as good as it gets, but If you know any better ones, please let me know.
I don't know folders super well. They look like tons of fun though, especially for travel photography. Enjoy them, and soon you'll want more control over your developing, and want to make better prints, and before you know it you're spending 45min hunched over a graduated cylinder of potassium ferricyanide bleaching out your highlights juuuuuust a little bit after split developing your oh-my-god-this-has-too-much-contrast print. And sometimes you'll even like the result.Show Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/nxsid4pi1sia1bm/2prints.jpg?dl=0)
Is it your focusing mechanism or your range finder that is gummed up? I've almost never met an old rangefinder that wasn't gummed up and wrong. Estimating works ok until you have the chance to have it cleaned. Often times shutters have multiple stages for different speeds. My 1930s pressman (2.25"x3.25" sheet film) has a shutter like that. Won't work slower than 1/50s but it's good faster. Either a clean job or find a parts camera.
That light meter looks like a selenium cell unit, which is probably the only vintage type that might still work. Even new light meters are troublesome and suddenly quit. If you find one that works, then it will probably work for a long time if taken care of.
Is it your focusing mechanism or your range finder that is gummed up? I've almost never met an old rangefinder that wasn't gummed up and wrong. Estimating works ok until you have the chance to have it cleaned. Often times shutters have multiple stages for different speeds. My 1930s pressman (2.25"x3.25" sheet film) has a shutter like that. Won't work slower than 1/50s but it's good faster. Either a clean job or find a parts camera.
That light meter looks like a selenium cell unit, which is probably the only vintage type that might still work. Even new light meters are troublesome and suddenly quit. If you find one that works, then it will probably work for a long time if taken care of.