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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: reduc3r on Tue, 19 April 2016, 11:18:57
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Just ordered 90 78g Zealios. (I like a firm switch.)
So, um, how can put them in a keyboard?
I looked around and discovered this Winkeyless B.87 option (http://winkeyless.kr/product/b-87-pcb-x2/). It's a very handsome keyboard, but I don't really need backlighting.
I'm aware of Clueboard (http://clueboard.co/), but I prefer a TKL layout.
Maybe it would be easier to take apart a manufactured keyboard, remove the switches, and install the Zealios? If so, what would be a good keyboard for that?
Any thoughts or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
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build the wkl without backlighting. desoldering is a pain in the ass
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I find that buying a super cheap mech is cheaper than buying the plate, PCB, casing, diodes, controller, etc. which makes absolutely no sense if you think about it.
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I find that buying a super cheap mech is cheaper than buying the plate, PCB, casing, diodes, controller, etc. which makes absolutely no sense if you think about it.
It's all about what kind of specifics you want in a board that is kind of the point of this entire hobby.
Many people want custom boards to get all the features that come with them.
For soldering/desoldering cheap boards can easily be destroyed due to their poor quality.
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Elite Keyboards has a few KUL ES87's on ebay in the $60-$80 range that should suite your needs.
The PCB is beef cake.
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I find that buying a super cheap mech is cheaper than buying the plate, PCB, casing, diodes, controller, etc. which makes absolutely no sense if you think about it.
I mean, a manufacturer buying in bulk is probably getting those at a significant discount compared to a regular user.
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I find that buying a super cheap mech is cheaper than buying the plate, PCB, casing, diodes, controller, etc. which makes absolutely no sense if you think about it.
I mean, a manufacturer buying in bulk is probably getting those at a significant discount compared to a regular user.
economies of scale
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Elite Keyboards has a few KUL ES87's on ebay in the $60-$80 range that should suite your needs.
Hm. That sounds like it could work, maybe.
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De-soldering is not a trivial work, you can damage the paths of the PCB and the matrix; but, maybe you have extensive experience with it, so just forget the comment.
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De-soldering is not a trivial work, you can damage the paths of the PCB and the matrix; but, maybe you have extensive experience with it, so just forget the comment.
Good to know, I thought about desoldering a board myself. Better buy parts and assemble myself then.
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De-soldering is not a trivial work, you can damage the paths of the PCB and the matrix; but, maybe you have extensive experience with it, so just forget the comment.
No fraid not. I've built PCs, that's about it. No soldering or desoldering was required.
Yeah, I'm gonna have to think about this. Maybe that Winkeyless is the way to go.
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De-soldering is not a trivial work, you can damage the paths of the PCB and the matrix; but, maybe you have extensive experience with it, so just forget the comment.
No fraid not. I've built PCs, that's about it. No soldering or desoldering was required.
Yeah, I'm gonna have to think about this. Maybe that Winkeyless is the way to go.
Make sure you get some soldering practice before diving into the board itself. Zealios are particularly sensitive to chattering due to the nature of their transparent plastic housing.
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De-soldering is not a trivial work, you can damage the paths of the PCB and the matrix; but, maybe you have extensive experience with it, so just forget the comment.
No fraid not. I've built PCs, that's about it. No soldering or desoldering was required.
Yeah, I'm gonna have to think about this. Maybe that Winkeyless is the way to go.
Make sure you get some soldering practice before diving into the board itself. Zealios are particularly sensitive to chattering due to the nature of their transparent plastic housing.
How does a transparent plastic housing increase chattering?
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De-soldering is not a trivial work, you can damage the paths of the PCB and the matrix; but, maybe you have extensive experience with it, so just forget the comment.
No fraid not. I've built PCs, that's about it. No soldering or desoldering was required.
Yeah, I'm gonna have to think about this. Maybe that Winkeyless is the way to go.
Make sure you get some soldering practice before diving into the board itself. Zealios are particularly sensitive to chattering due to the nature of their transparent plastic housing.
How does a transparent plastic housing increase chattering?
Something about the plastic having a lower melting point
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De-soldering is not a trivial work, you can damage the paths of the PCB and the matrix; but, maybe you have extensive experience with it, so just forget the comment.
No fraid not. I've built PCs, that's about it. No soldering or desoldering was required.
Yeah, I'm gonna have to think about this. Maybe that Winkeyless is the way to go.
Make sure you get some soldering practice before diving into the board itself. Zealios are particularly sensitive to chattering due to the nature of their transparent plastic housing.
How does a transparent plastic housing increase chattering?
Zeal himself mentioned that transparent plastics have a lower melting point.
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Chattering is double registering of a key right? So if you press 'k' it will register as 'kk' or 'kkk'. How does a little bit melted key housings affect chatter? Or is this a really stupid question?
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Chattering is double registering of a key right? So if you press 'k' it will register as 'kk' or 'kkk'. How does a little bit melted key housings affect chatter? Or is this a really stupid question?
That's my understanding of chattering as well. But I think it's just enough melting/warping to change how the internals of the switch sit, I don't know either honestly, maybe someone else has a better explanation.
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Chattering is double registering of a key right? So if you press 'k' it will register as 'kk' or 'kkk'. How does a little bit melted key housings affect chatter? Or is this a really stupid question?
That's my understanding of chattering as well. But I think it's just enough melting/warping to change how the internals of the switch sit, I don't know either honestly, maybe someone else has a better explanation.
I can imagine that... perhaps it just affects the contacts / pins a bit as well.
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I find that buying a super cheap mech is cheaper than buying the plate, PCB, casing, diodes, controller, etc. which makes absolutely no sense if you think about it.
No, it absolutely makes sense. The economies of scale dictate the prices at which manufacturers will sell bulk products. A manufacturer like CM or KUL will more often than not be able to purchase all of the required parts in amounts far beyond what the smaller, niche-focused sellers like winkeyless or others would be able to. Therefore they receive much better prices per part than the smaller alternatives.
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I find that buying a super cheap mech is cheaper than buying the plate, PCB, casing, diodes, controller, etc. which makes absolutely no sense if you think about it.
No, it absolutely makes sense. The economies of scale dictate the prices at which manufacturers will sell bulk products. A manufacturer like CM or KUL will more often than not be able to purchase all of the required parts in amounts far beyond what the smaller, niche-focused sellers like winkeyless or others would be able to. Therefore they receive much better prices per part than the smaller alternatives.
Exactly for the same reason, if what you want is an stock keyboard just to change the switches that approach is correct; but, if what you want is to build a custom board with programmability and other non-stock features a cheap stock board is not the answer.
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Thanks for the advice, guys. I appreciate the assistance. I have the switches, and I'll keep it in mind.
After reading through the comments and assessing my available free time, I've rethought my philosophy, and I'm thinking maybe I'd better just content myself with what's available pre-built, at least for now. I didn't quite realize the scale of this endeavor.
But the switches are there if I ever decide to return to this.
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Hey man, I recently got a b.87 and put zealios in it, I got winkeyless to solder all the small stuff and just soldered the switches.. It was surprisingly easy.. that said, as stated above, I'd steer well clear of any desoldering or fiddly soldering.
I'd say keep your zealios and find a board you like that's sold complete but without switches.. It's not hard to just solder in the switches... and it's well worth it.
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I find that buying a super cheap mech is cheaper than buying the plate, PCB, casing, diodes, controller, etc. which makes absolutely no sense if you think about it.
No much more sense than often buying a new printer is cheaper than buying the ink itself is....Such is the odd world we live in.