geekhack
geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: Pspboy17 on Sun, 08 May 2016, 21:05:43
-
Earlier today I set my Unicomp Classic down a bit harder than I should have and now it shows up as unknown device. In the past if I gently bumped the top right of the keyboard where the controller was it would either drop keypresses or need to be plugged back in. I've even just bumped my mouse into it before and it happened. Anyways, the keyboard was made on 12/11/2013, and is out of warranty. If I turn it is standing on it's side it is detected by windows and it does work, but I can't imagine that it is a good idea to type like that. Any ideas what I could do to fix this? I've heard some interesting things about the USB controllers that Unicomp uses.
-
Open her up and look for loose or cracked solder joints.
-
Good..
Time to get ERGODOX...
-
Open her up and look for loose or cracked solder joints.
This.
Jiggle everything around, and un-plug and re-plug all the connections.
-
Post some pics as well, maybe we can help with detecting something.
-
What size are the heads of the screws? My socket set is too thick to reach all the way in :-[. I might be able to 3d print one on Wednesday if I have time.
-
5.5mm. It's unusual in Europe, but not that rare. However you need a nut driver that is long and narrow. I had to buy a special tool. You can get a set from here as well http://www.ebay.com/itm/141380332599?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT They should be much more common if you are in US. Also, google the pen trick. You basically heat and melt the pen, and push it in while it's still hot.
-
I used the pen trick to melt it around a screw. After unplugging and plugging back in the connector that the usb cable connects to into the controller, it now seems to work perfectly fine. Thanks guys, you saved me from having to send it back. I will keep this thread updated if I encounter a problem in the near future.
-
:thumb:
-
5.5mm. It's unusual in Europe, but not that rare. However you need a nut driver that is long and narrow.
That tool set is insanely cheap!
The actual size is 7/32" but 5.5mm is almost identical. If you buy a socket (Lowe's or auto parts places have them for about $4 or less) be sure that it is "long" and "thin-walled".
-
I don't know if it is still true but Unicomp used to have a refurbishing service. It was really inexpensive back then when they were offering it. Give them a call.
Looks little more expensive and no details about what class 1, 2, 3 are.
http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/category/Repair (http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/category/Repair)
-
I don't know if it is still true but Unicomp used to have a refurbishing service. It was really inexpensive back then when they were offering it. Give them a call.
Looks little more expensive and no details about what class 1, 2, 3 are.
http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/category/Repair (http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/category/Repair)
You have to open a support ticket with them first, to talk about what is broken, what type of repair is expected; Unicomp then tells you which repair item and how many to 'buy'.
-
Well today I turned on my pc an my keyboard won't work at all :(. What would I be looking for in terms of broken solder joints? Also, can I unscrew the controller?
-
Is there a possibility there was a break in the cable? The strain relief they used was just bending the cable 90 degree so it wouldn't get pulled out. I think it might have been bent back and forth to the point where one of the wires broke. When it is lugged in it does nothing. Before it would say that a usb device had malfunctioned. I've unplugged the controller and taken it out, and not once has it even lit up.
-
What you've described could be caused by the cable but it's strange that it finally gave up while just sat on your desk, assuming it was. Give it a wiggle and you should be able to get the LEDs to flash to confirm, but if it's really dead that won't work.
-
I can't get it to do anything. I switch between my Unicomp and a Dell at101w, I use the Dell at night and the Unicomp during the day. All I did was pick it up and set it on my desk. Replacement cables are pretty cheap, or I might just cut out the portion that was used for the strain relief and splice it.
-
Sounds good, no point spending even a small amount if it's not going to fix the problem.
-
What a bummer, hope you get it sorted out. Three years and it's already giving you trouble :(
-
Well I cut out the bit of wire that I though could have been the problem and as it would turn out it was the problem.
The two ends ready to reunite
[attach=1]
The ends twisted together along with the section that caused problems.
[attach=2]
The only tool used was this small pair of scissors.
[attach=3]
Thanks for the help guys, now I just have to get the wire back in the case somehow.
-
I'm glad you were able to get it back in action!
-
Glad to hear it works! Also I like how there's no pic of the taped up join which you're struggling to fit in the case - how big is it? :))
-
Wow, was the cause due to pinched wires? That's what it looks like anyway; now you have a happy Unicomp :)
-
It's almost fixed, now a few keys won't work. A Ripster guide said that the controller should be cleaned with 99% alcohol where it touched the contacts on the membrane, I don't know if 70% will be sufficient. Anyways I didn't used the same strain releif systen that Uncomp did since it broke my cable, instead I wrapped a ton of electrical tape around the cable until it wouldn't be able to leave the board. The red in the second picture shows the path that the cable followed previously.
-
As it would occur I stripped the left screw holding the controller in. To combat this, I stuck half a cu-tip between the casing and the controller, and to my surprise it actually works!