Completely rewritten as worked this out, not been awake long enough :))
There are SMD diode pads connected to through hole pads, which are the outer ones of the rows of 4 (the middle two are for the in switch LED) This design is for switches with diodes inside but there's no reason you shouldn't use them - keep the leads short and solder on the back (same side as the diode itself) so the switch can sit flush.
Did you buy the board new? There's flux residue near the soldered diode and the through hole pad above has solder on. Looks to me like a previous owner started a build but didn't get far...
Yeah the diodes work the same, take your pick. Even soldering on the same side through hole will be easier doing it by hand but use the SMDs if they're already there. As long as it's flux designed for PCBs it souldn't do any damage and feng is no newbie so you're good there. It just doesn't look pretty :))
As for resistors they don't go anywhere in those pics (unless PR4 next to the little chip in the first pic is one) - have you touched an LED to the pads to check they don't work?
I think I'm just going to solder switches for my kit and think about leds later.
edit: Mind taking a picture of your pcb when you figure everything out?
Yup, worst outcome is a burned LED (don't blink or you might miss it) best is a lit one. The most likely outcome is you need resistors somewhere they aren't, in which case it just won't light up...
Resistor pads would not have + marked as resistors aren't directional if that helps?
Yeah, probably :)). I don't usually care about LEDs that much but the LEDs looked really nice in yuktsi's video with the clear top plate.I think I'm just going to solder switches for my kit and think about leds later.
edit: Mind taking a picture of your pcb when you figure everything out?
haha alright, if you ever get LEDs to work let me know
I probably won't begin building until start of june, cause I'm a bit busy till the end of may, but yeah, I'll send you a pic if I ever get around to it ;;
but by then you'll probably have everything figured out? haha
haha alright, if you ever get LEDs to work let me knowYeah, probably :)). I don't usually care about LEDs that much but the LEDs looked really nice in yuktsi's video with the clear top plate.
I probably won't begin building until start of june, cause I'm a bit busy till the end of may, but yeah, I'll send you a pic if I ever get around to it ;;
but by then you'll probably have everything figured out? haha
Tbh I'm still confused about your feet situation, though i haven't tried installing mine. I thought it was just you use the long screw he gave with the feet for your corner case screws, and line up the nub on the foot with the hole that's only on the bottom layer.haha alright, if you ever get LEDs to work let me knowYeah, probably :)). I don't usually care about LEDs that much but the LEDs looked really nice in yuktsi's video with the clear top plate.
I probably won't begin building until start of june, cause I'm a bit busy till the end of may, but yeah, I'll send you a pic if I ever get around to it ;;
but by then you'll probably have everything figured out? haha
I mean it'll look alright on your board cause at least you have a white middle layer, but I feel like since mine is all clear, it'll look weird without at least some LEDs
we'll slowly work it out I suppose haha - already had to shave away some of the acrylic on the top layer and plate in order to get the feet flush to the bottom layer since the screw wouldn't fit through the top, only the bottom :c
at least I got everything to sit pretty without breaking anything haha
Tbh I'm still confused about your feet situation, though i haven't tried installing mine. I thought it was just you use the long screw he gave with the feet for your corner case screws, and line up the nub on the foot with the hole that's only on the bottom layer.
Oh okay I see what you mean. Gonna have to figure out how I'll deal with that.
Yep that's pretty much how it goes in, but it doesn't sit flush because the female screw that you insert through the bottom prevents it from doing so, so you have to actually insert it through it from the top and screw the feet in from the bottom, but the holes on the acrylic plate are too small so the female screw doesn't fit.. so I had to file away some of the acrylic to make the hole bigger, so it fits now
aaaand the protective sticker thing won't peel of the top layer.. guess I'll have to spray it with WD40 or something, idekShow Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160513/bb090e099c980e86c0709a62184c0390.jpg)
I guess I got luckier on the protective sticker.
I have the same kit, so we must be all three that bought the remaining kits. BTW for the feet issue I just took the female screw and pushed in all the way in the feet so it is flush with the foot and add stability when screwed into the case. Does that make sense? I can add pics if I had a free uploader.Hm, a pic would be great :). You could use imgur to upload it. I'm still waiting for my switches to arrive before I start building.
I have the same kit, so we must be all three that bought the remaining kits. BTW for the feet issue I just took the female screw and pushed in all the way in the feet so it is flush with the foot and add stability when screwed into the case. Does that make sense? I can add pics if I had a free uploader.
Hm, a pic would be great :). You could use imgur to upload it. I'm still waiting for my switches to arrive before I start building.
Yeah, I decided to buy an extra set off of Shadovved's EnjoyPBT group buy but the set I want won't arrive until the end of the month. I also somehow got into round 0 for the 62/60... still need to find some keyset for that.
lol same here, bought some vintage ergo-clears off of a friend.. but then again, I still have to buy keycaps - and the ones are still in IC phase :c so even if I finish building, it'll be months before I start using it unless I buy some taihaos or something while I wait
it'd be interesting to see everyone's finished builds :thumb:
Yeah, I decided to buy an extra set off of Shadovved's EnjoyPBT group buy but the set I want won't arrive until the end of the month. I also somehow got into round 0 for the 62/60... still need to find some keyset for that.
I'm still getting used to 60%, I always find myself reaching for arrow keys that aren't there haha.
I had some enjoypbt keycaps but sold them like 2 weeks ago so I got nothing :-|
and congrats haha, I was deciding to join that GB later, but found this and ... yeah, always wanted to try a TKL keyboard.. I just skipped from full size to 60% and have been using 60s exclusively for quite some time, so hopefully I like the form factor
Educated guess from the label it's a Capacitor. It's in series with the LED in the top corner of the pic so if that still lighs up you're good :thumb:
Is the LED supposed to be the other way round if the switch is upside down? Worth checking as SMD desoldering is not fun, though LEDs aren't much better...
If you put the LEDs in the switches then put the switches in the board (as I usually do) the + leg would be on the wrong side for that one because the switch is upside-down. Just a thought :)
Well here is a update on my board. I am really,really, really confused. When I got the board I was able to get the top part (F keys) of the keyboard to register and the LED's all lit up as well. I went ahead and soldered the rest of the diodes, tested them all and everythign is good.
Except, I cannot register any key presses anymore. I still get LED lights when I attach a LED to the holes and my machine sees the keyboard (Aikon otd.kr). Also I get zero voltage on any keys that are not the F row keys and no leds either, I see no resisters only the LED controllers at the top. Plus this board has a million holes are we suppose to make our own matrix or something. Granted I am pretty new to the custom keyboard scene but I have never seen a keyboard like this before.
Got around to putting together my board. http://imgur.com/lXGNoeE (http://imgur.com/lXGNoeE)
I need to buy a bottom row that fits, but liking the hangul set otherwise. I decided not to do LEDs.
Does anyone know how I can download the aikon software? The only place I saw required me to register for a korean forum and unfortunately I can't read it.
This is what I found https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=38406.0 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=38406.0). The otd links seem to be where you get it?
send me a link to the korean forum if you can
This is what I found https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=38406.0 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=38406.0). The otd links seem to be where you get it?
send me a link to the korean forum if you can
Oh, feng originally told me that the pcb uses aikon firmware. Is that wrong?
wait, so you're using an aikon controller with the pcb?
Oh, feng originally told me that the pcb uses aikon firmware. Is that wrong?
wait, so you're using an aikon controller with the pcb?
hm okay. I just want to map caps lock to control. I guess I can change my windows settings instead.
lol im not sure, haven't heard anything from him
hm okay. I just want to map caps lock to control. I guess I can change my windows settings instead.
lol im not sure, haven't heard anything from him
Actually it looks like I can't use it right now. It requires something called libusb0.dll which apparently only works on 32 bit OS.
http://www.otd.kr/bbs/board.php?bo_table=aikon_down&wr_id=45
here's a link to the aikon software, lemme know if it works
Actually it looks like I can't use it right now. It requires something called libusb0.dll which apparently only works on 32 bit OS.
http://www.otd.kr/bbs/board.php?bo_table=aikon_down&wr_id=45
here's a link to the aikon software, lemme know if it works
I Realized I forgot to mention that I wasn't able to get it working. I'll try to figure it out again over the weekend.
Can we get a pic of the 'million holes'? The bits pictured so far look pretty normal, allowing for the double (and triple!) diode options.
Have you tried flashing the firmware to confirm it's not just blank at the moment? Can't think why it would be but an entire dead board that registers normally doesn't seem likely either...
Looks really great! Thanks for figuring out the software. I still haven't gotten around to setting it up haha.
Ok so I decided to dig this board out and try again based on the updates here. Did you have to do any additional soldering of diodes or anything? It seems no matter what i do I cannot get any key presses to register and only the top F row and bottom row are registering power. I get led lights on all F keys, caps and scr lock. I would really love some help with this. Here is ther picture of all those holes I was talking about.
Ok so I decided to dig this board out and try again based on the updates here. Did you have to do any additional soldering of diodes or anything? It seems no matter what i do I cannot get any key presses to register and only the top F row and bottom row are registering power. I get led lights on all F keys, caps and scr lock. I would really love some help with this. Here is ther picture of all those holes I was talking about.
Yep, you'll need to buy some through hole diodes and solder them on for all of the keys, besides the F row, scroll, and caps lock.
These are the ones I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1N4148-Philips-Semiconductor-DO-35-Switching-Signal-Diode-100-pieces-Hi-Quality-/121670687923?hash=item1c54235cb3:g:vPUAAOSwstxVcjxv
They work fine, should take no more than ~30 minutes to solder them in and clip the legs. The controller should be fine, since you said that the others keys register well. If you have any other questions, lemme know!