geekhack
geekhack Projects => Making Stuff Together! => Topic started by: yomammary on Mon, 16 May 2016, 13:18:02
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I decided to get a GH60 rev. C PCB back when TechKeys started selling them. I didn't know what I'd do with it. I still don't have a clear picture of what I'll do but all the parts are ordered.
Btw I've never built a keyboard from just the PCB, I soldered some switches but that's it!
I'm thinking of a simple 60% keyboard with backlighting, I thought of getting an acrylic case but decided against it after some thought.
Parts I've received already.
- GH60 rev. C PCB from TechKeys (http://techkeys.us/collections/accessories/products/gh60)
- R2 Zealios 67g (from the GB directly)
- JTK Stormtrooper keycaps (got them from a trade on reddit)
- Stabilizers from switchTop (http://www.switchtop.co/product/pcb-mounted-cherry-stabilizers)
- Aluminum case from AliExpress vendor (http://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Wholesales-GH60-Anodizing-Aluminum-Case-for-60-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Compatible-Poker2-Pok3r-Faceu-60/32540926035.html)
- Universal 60% plate from LeandreN GB
Parts I haven't received yet.
- GMK CMYK from the currect GB (https://buycmyk.com/)
- Custom USB cable
Here is the keymap of my build :
(http://i.imgur.com/bqIg7e0.png)
I had to swap the Fn key with the right shift key for it to be placed correctly. I don't know if it's an issue with EasyAVR or the keyboard... oh well. Thanks to suicidal_orange (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.msg2185038#msg2185038).
Fn layer :
(http://i.imgur.com/OXRWvhr.png)
Attached is the keymap file for EasyAVR and .hex file for FLIP.
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(http://i.imgur.com/yKAzAbp.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/lsnCfCJ.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/V0Apktk.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/NYAsI54.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/CpRfoBM.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/M2sf7Ft.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/RHZqqt6.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/MpkIZle.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/NaTXo1e.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/eqBtJbL.jpg)
Semi-finished layout, I'm going to test it and I'm also waiting for the CMYK GB.
(http://i.imgur.com/FcwqRlH.jpg)
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Please keep us updated!
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I don't mean to put a dampener on your plans but I hope you are aware that the GH60revC doesn't support full board backlighting without you wiring something up on the expansion header at the top? You can put LEDs in WASD and the mods and inner split shift in the bottom right if you want some glow, but the rest is not so easy.
Will still be a great looking and feeling board though :)
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I don't mean to put a dampener on your plans but I hope you are aware that the GH60revC doesn't support full board backlighting without you wiring something up on the expansion header at the top? You can put LEDs in WASD and the mods and inner split shift in the bottom right if you want some glow, but the rest is not so easy.
Will still be a great looking and feeling board though :)
Yeah that's kind of why I put my thread in Making Stuff Together, I'll need help :)
What module do I need for full backlighting?
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Hmm well after reading about how to do the full backlight thing, not sure if I'll just not do it or get another PCB.
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Where did you read about that? Didn't know anyone had done it yet :eek:
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Does the gh60 rev c supports LEDs underneath the pcb similar to the NerD?
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Not by design, but you could wire some up to the switch pads if you decide against backlighting.
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So does the gh60 support any LEDs like I don't want them on the switches just the sides of the board to make like under glow ?
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There are no LEDs supported on it. I have the same board and have the LEDs soldered in place I plan on putting a raspberry pi zero in there to control the LEDs but I have not had the time to do so, maybe this weekend...
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There are no LEDs supported on it.
The GH60 rev.C comes with support for LEDS on the following keys: WASD, ESC, CAPS, and the POKER arrow cluster (lower right). You just have to solder in resistors, the locations are clearly marked on the back of the PCB.
The GH60 also has LED holes in each switch mounting position to support full in-switch LED support once Kroms designs and releases the expansion board.
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There are no LEDs supported on it.
The GH60 rev.C comes with support for LEDS on the following keys: WASD, ESC, CAPS, and the POKER arrow cluster (lower right). You just have to solder in resistors, the locations are clearly marked on the back of the PCB.
The GH60 also has LED holes in each switch mounting position to support full in-switch LED support once Kroms designs and releases the expansion board.
Ah yes that is correct. I meant FULL LED....
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There are no LEDs supported on it.
The GH60 rev.C comes with support for LEDS on the following keys: WASD, ESC, CAPS, and the POKER arrow cluster (lower right). You just have to solder in resistors, the locations are clearly marked on the back of the PCB.
The GH60 also has LED holes in each switch mounting position to support full in-switch LED support once Kroms designs and releases the expansion board.
Ah yes that is correct. I meant FULL LED....
Also you will need to add resistors for those LED configurations, right?
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There are no LEDs supported on it.
The GH60 rev.C comes with support for LEDS on the following keys: WASD, ESC, CAPS, and the POKER arrow cluster (lower right). You just have to solder in resistors, the locations are clearly marked on the back of the PCB.
The GH60 also has LED holes in each switch mounting position to support full in-switch LED support once Kroms designs and releases the expansion board.
Do you think that'll come in the next decade? :))
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I didn't realize TechKeys was selling rev.C boards. I may have to pick one up...
Keep us updated! I'm excited to see where this build goes.
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I might install and solder the LEDs on all keys and when the expansion module comes out, I'll put it in.
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Just received my case from China, shipping was fast! :thumb:
Updated original posts because I forgot that I was also waiting for a plate from LeandreN.
Also decided against backlighting to keep the original purpose of the GH60.
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Not by design, but you could wire some up to the switch pads if you decide against backlighting.
I'm planning on doing a very similar build to OP however I'm hoping to use QMK firmware to support some strips of WS2812 mounted in an acrylic case for a 'gon underglow' type effect. Am I on the right track? I've been struggling to find concrete answers on it.
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Updated OP with keymap and hex file (attached).
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Update OP because I received my plate today :)
Will post pics tomorrow.
And the building can begin!
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If anyone has an answer to this, it would be much appreciated.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.msg2191594#msg2191594
Edit : Posted more pics.
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Updated layout pics and attachement in OP and posted pics of result (for the moment).
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Looking good, I added a mouse button 1 to the fn layer 1 on button Q and mouse button 2 to the E key and find it helpful, I also added a third layer that controls the mouse with the WASD keys that's also nice because I hate using a mouse.
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Seems the wrong config file made it's way into EasyAVR - you have the standard 1.75-1u physically, it's ony when you have the big key on the edge of the board you should need to swap them because that's how its wired up.
I'll check all the LEDs work and get this corrected, strange no-one else has commented :confused:
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Seems the wrong config file made it's way into EasyAVR - you have the standard 1.75-1u physically, it's ony when you have the big key on the edge of the board you should need to swap them because that's how its wired up.
I'll check all the LEDs work and get this corrected, strange no-one else has commented :confused:
Well I can tell you my right shift and Fn key both work.
I'm experiencing some chattering with Zealios 67g right now though... :'(
Only the spacebar though, I even soldered a new switch this morning, same issue... bleeeeeh.
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Seems the wrong config file made it's way into EasyAVR - you have the standard 1.75-1u physically, it's ony when you have the big key on the edge of the board you should need to swap them because that's how its wired up.
I'll check all the LEDs work and get this corrected, strange no-one else has commented :confused:
Well I can tell you my right shift and Fn key both work.
I'm experiencing some chattering with Zealios 67g right now though... :'(
Only the spacebar though, I even soldered a new switch this morning, same issue... bleeeeeh.
It's not going to stop it working, just looks wrong!
Can you open the switches without desoldering them? You should be able to tweak the chatter out if you can. If not I wish you luck - I did one board and replaced lots of switches due to solid plate and chatter, it was not fun. Feels great when it's done though :)
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Seems the wrong config file made it's way into EasyAVR - you have the standard 1.75-1u physically, it's ony when you have the big key on the edge of the board you should need to swap them because that's how its wired up.
I'll check all the LEDs work and get this corrected, strange no-one else has commented :confused:
Well I can tell you my right shift and Fn key both work.
I'm experiencing some chattering with Zealios 67g right now though... :'(
Only the spacebar though, I even soldered a new switch this morning, same issue... bleeeeeh.
It's not going to stop it working, just looks wrong!
Can you open the switches without desoldering them? You should be able to tweak the chatter out if you can. If not I wish you luck - I did one board and replaced lots of switches due to solid plate and chatter, it was not fun. Feels great when it's done though :)
How do you fix chatter without desoldering them?
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Sometimes plates will have the extra cutouts in them so that you can open them without having to desolder them.
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Yeah I get it, but once the switch is open what do I have to fix?
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It's my understanding that sometimes it's just a bad switch or there's a problem with the contact leaf. Generally they're just replaced.
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you need to slightly bend the stiff metal bit near the middle of the switch, can't remember which way but it's mentioned often towards the end of the R1 GB thread.
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Thank you, I'll start reading :)