○ 65g Zealios - Smooth, long drawn out bump in the middle. Nice cushion at bottom out.
○ 67g Zealios - "Crisp" and "shorter duration" tactile bump that feels higher than the rest (this is due to the spring), more cushion than 65g counterpart.
○ 78g Zealios - First half of travel feels similar to 65g, heavier bottom out. Think of this variant as "cushiony" 65g Zealios.
topre is very nice, but white alps style are a bit snappier, if by snappier you mean you feel the tactile all at once vs spread out like mx compatible do, matias quiet click is the quietest board for <$300 I think and costs less than topre. But topre feel a bit cushiony like you said you want.
you can always ask if you can bring in a greased unicomp board since those are quieter :p
You definitely need to try Alps! However, did you check whether the board is clean? Alps can get really bad when they're dirty...topre is very nice, but white alps style are a bit snappier, if by snappier you mean you feel the tactile all at once vs spread out like mx compatible do, matias quiet click is the quietest board for <$300 I think and costs less than topre. But topre feel a bit cushiony like you said you want.
you can always ask if you can bring in a greased unicomp board since those are quieter :p
@#$%! You two just had to say that. I had a feeling I was going to have to try out the alps. :D
Well following your advice I just got a used M0116 with a few missing keycaps. I'll clean it up if it needs it and see if I like the feel of it. If I like it as much as you say then chances are I'll buy into the Matias 60% since it has the proper PCB and plates. Now I just need to learn how to properly solder and desolder... :eek:
You definitely need to try Alps! However, did you check whether the board is clean? Alps can get really bad when they're dirty...
Yes, that's my tutorial. It can make switches better if they're dirty but haven't been used much, but keyboards that have been used while dirty get physically damaged in a way we cannot restore at this moment. The boards does look fairly clean, hopefully it will turn out well. Clean orange Alps are possibly my favourite tactile switch, they're almost the dictionary definition of a well-rounded tactile switch.Show Image(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/tD4AAOSwiylXDUaj/s-l1600.jpg)
It's in rough shape, but it looks relatively clean. I'll be sure to follow what I assume is your cleaning guide on youtube if they feel nasty. I intend on desoldering it and using the switches.
One other thing... what about the keycaps? I saw some Alps to Cherry MX adapters that were 3d printed a while back with varying results. Did that ever amount to much? I have a feeling I'm speaking blasphemy by suggesting it out loud. I'm not sure if Alps users are purists or not. :-[
Seriously though, what a time to be alive in keyboarding!All the best keyswitches and keycaps were made in the 1970s–80s, and a lot of what remains from that era is in poor condition.
Seriously though, what a time to be alive in keyboarding!All the best keyswitches and keycaps were made in the 1970s–80s, and a lot of what remains from that era is in poor condition.
I could help you out with the missing number keys on your M0116. Happy to give them to you if you will pay for shipping (that is if you're in the US--it would be more if you are elsewhere).
PM me if interested.
Overly snappy switches might be too much for certain people, don't forget that. If switches cliff to hell, you might bottom out hard which can actually get painful after a while. This is particularly problematic with short-travel switches.
The most snappy switches are mostly clicky, which is kinda impossible in an office, I guess.
P.S. the snappiest switches I've tried so far, without a doubt, are the black-and-red LARB Alps clones. After the tactile bump there is virtually no press-up force, it ALMOST feels like there is no coil spring in the switch at all. So it looks like they went with a very snappy click leaf and a very light coil spring. I'd LOVE to give a board with these a go sometime, the loose switches are extremely promising!
Good news. I was able to find replacements for all 7 of your missing caps. Mailing them now.
Also note while your M0116 case look beat up, it will clean very nicely. Those stubborn black marks will come right out with a pencil eraser. And you can redrobright it with some 40% peroxide solution (available at any beauty supply store) mixed 1/2 with water and sprayed on the case for an even coat, and then left in the sun about six hours.
This board was in worse shape than yours looks to be and it turned out nice.
(Attachment Link)
Can they be cleaned well enough though? I'm thinking that they were worn to death through use and abuse.If they're dirty, yes you can. I made a video tutorial on how to do it.